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Rider's 

BERMUDA 

A Guide -Book for Travelers 



RIDER'S GUIDES 

Ready: 

Rider's NEW YORK CITY 
Rider's BERMUDA 
Rider's WASHINGTON 

In Preparation: 

Rider's NEW ENGLAND 
Rider's CALIFORNIA 
Rider's FLORIDA 
Rider's WEST INDIES 



Rider's 



BERMUDA 



A GUIDE BOOK for TRAVELERS 

with 4 maps 
Compiled under the general editorship of 

FREMONT RIDER 

BY 
DR. FREDERIC TABER COOPER 




NEW YORK 

HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY 

1922 






Cop3'right. 1922 

by 

The Rider Press, Inc. 



The contents of this vohime are fully pro- 
tected by copyrig-ht, both in the United States 
and in foreign countries, and infringements 
thereof will be vigorously prosecuted. 



;2J? f Qf^l rcokrJ> 



m -5 iS22 



r-\ 



©CI.Ae6t977 



PREFACE 

No excuse seems necessary for attempting the preparation 
of an adequate guide-ibook for what is undoubtedly one of the 
most delightful of all the 'little corners of the world. 

Soon after the issuance of "Rider's New York City/' 
the first volume in a new series of guide-books bearing the 
editor's name, a '^Bermuda" volume was projected. The war, 
and the consequent interruption of tourist and steamship traffic, 
soon made necessary a postponement of plan, and it was not 
till last year that actual field work on the present volume was 
begun. 

Some of the problems met with in the preparation of the 
"New York" volume did not have to be solved in the case of 
Bermuda. New York is in a constant state of flux : Bermuda 
"changes little and slowly. And, as the literature of Bermuda 
is surprisingly extensive, research would at first glance have 
seemed to he chiefly a matter of selection. Following the 
precedent of the New York volume, however, every endeavor 
has been made to secure information or verification of every 
item at first hand, and this has meant an amount of work in 
the field which only those who have compiled guide-books 
can appreciate. 

The actual labor of compilation has in the present case 
been largely in the hands of Dr. F>ederic Taber Cooper, to 
whose p^ainstaking enthusiasm and critical sense the "New 
York" voilume owed so much, and to him, the editor feels, 
should be given credit for whatever excellence the present 
volume may possess. An expression of indebtedness is also due 
Mrs. Doris Webb Webster, who read proof and prepared the 
index; and to Mr. T. A. Chard, of Rand McNally & Co., 
whose interest helped greatly in the production of what we 
modestly believe is the best map of Benmnda yet published. 

To be a guidenbook of genuine and practical use to the 
traveler it is of course necessary, as was remarked in the pref- 
ace to the "New York" volume, to discriminate, and this 
means not merely to select the good from the bad, but to en- 
deavor to give each proper values. With every effort to 
make just appraisal, error of judgment and differences of 
opinion are of course natural. It need hardly be said, however, 
that no remuneration of any sort, direct or indirect, has secured 
favorable notice in this guide-book. As in the Baedeker 
series, which has been frankly taken as a model, the better 
class, or especially noteworthy, has been indicated by an 
asterisk [*]. 



vi RIDER'S BERMUDA 

■ The Editor is still sure "that only one who has attempted 
to compile a guide-book out of whole cloth, as it were, com- 
pleteh- appreciates the complexity of the task and the infinite 
opportunity for error which it affords. He realizes, therefore, 
the imperfections and hiatuses of this work more clearly prob- 
ably than will its severest critics; and he will most cordially 
welcome corrections and suggestions from any source for its 
improvement in succeeding editions." 

Happily the compilation of a guide-book to Bermuda is 
a labor of love, in the hteral if not the_ acquired sense. Few 
spots on earth have ibeen more blessed by nature and it is not 
without reason that for three centuries they have been known 
as islands of contentment. 

Twelve years ago, on his first acquaintance with the 
islands, the Editor bought one of them ; and though he has not 
yet secured a complete title to it— such things move very 
slow'ly in Bermuda — he has hopes of some day himself having 
a little corner there to retreat to and invite his soul. 

The Editor. 
Apfil, 1922. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Introduction 

I. General Description of Bermuda . . . xi 

II. The Geology of Bermuda .... xiv 

III. The Discovery and History oif Bermuda . xix 

IV. The Natural History of Bermuda . . . xxxiv 

a. In General, xxxiv; b. Birds of Bei"muda. xxxv; 
c. The Corals of Bermuda, xxxviii; d. The Plants 
and Trees of Bermuda, xxxix. 

V. The S3^tem of Government .... xlii 
VI. Bermudian, Industry and Agriculture . . XLVi 

VII. Miscellaneous Information for the Prospective 

Visitor to Bermuda xlviti 

a. Climate, xlviii; b. Currency sj'stem. Expenses, 
etc., 1; c. Some General Notes on the Life and 
Customfj of Bermuda, Hi. 

Preliminary Information 

I. Arrival in Bermuda ..... 3 

II, Hotels and Boarding Houses .... 4 

a General Information, 4; b. Hotels and Boarding 
Houses in Hamilton, 5 ; c. In Pembroke, 6 ; d. In 
Paget, 7; e. In Warwick, 7; f. In Flatts Village and 
Neighborhood, 7; g. In St. George's and Neighbor- 
hood, 7; h. In Somerset, 8; i. Furnished Rooms, 8. 

III. Baths, Barber Shops, etc 8 

IV. Restaurants and Tea Rooms .... 9 

a. Hotel Restaurants 9; b. Tea Rooms, 9; c. Road 
Houses, 9; d. Ice Cream and Soda Water. 10. 

V. Inter-Island Travel . . . . . 10 

a. Public Omnibuses, 10; b. Carriages, Livery 
Stables, 1 1 ; c. Bicycles, 12; d. The Forbidden Auto- 
mo'bile, 13; e. Ferry Boat Lines, 14; f. Aerial Tours 
of the Bermudas, 15. 

VI. Steamship Lines and Offices .... 15 

a. Present Day Sei-\'ice, Rates, etc., 16; b. Miscel- 
laneous Information for Pas-engers, 17: c. Tourist 
and Express Agencies. 



viii 



RIDER'S BERMUDA 



VII. Post and Telegraph Offices, Telephones, Ex- 



fa. Telegraph and Cable 
Government Radio Serv- 



VIII. 



press Companies 

a. Postal Facilities, i8: 
Offices and Service, 20; ( 
ice, 20. 

Theatres and Other Places of Entertainment 

a. Hamilton. 21; b. Outside of Hamilton, 22. 



IX. 


Sports, Games, etc. 


X. 


Clubs . . . ■ . 


XI. 


Shops and Stores . 


XII. 


Churches; Religious Services 


XIII. 


Libraries and Reading Rooms 


XIV. 


Newspapers and Periodicals . 


XV. 


Physicians, Dentists, Hospitals 


XVI. 


Banks ..... 


XVII. 


Planning a Bermuda Stay . 




a. Distribution of Time, 36. 


XVIII. 


BibliiOjgraphy . . . . 


Entering Bermuda 


Hamilton and Vicinity 




{Pembroke Parish) 


I. 


Within the City 



a. History, Topography, etc., 49; b. Front Street, 

51; c. Qtteen Street, 53; d. Reid Street, 58; e. 

Church Street, 61; f. Victoria Street and North- 
^A^ard, 3. 

II. Excursions in Pembroke .... 

a. The Pitt's Bay Road to Spanish Point, 65; b. 
'Admiralty House, 67; c. The Serpentine Road to 
Fairyland, 69; d. From Cedar Avenue to the North 
Shore, 70; e. Government House, yz; f. Agar's 
Island, 74. 

The Central Parishes 

{Paget East, Devonshire, Smith's and Hamilton) 

I. North Shore Road from Hamilton to Flatts 
Village 

II. The Middle Road from Hamilton to Flatts 
Village ....... 



18 



20 

22 
28 
29 
31 
33 
33 
34 
35 
35 

38 
43 



49 



65 



TABLE OF CONTENTS ix 

III. The North Shore Road from Flatts Village 
Crossways to the Blue Hole . . . . 8i 

a. Side Excursion to Coney Island, 84 

IV. Harrington Sound from Flatts Village Cross- 
ways to Bailey's Bay ..... 85 

V. Walsingham ...... 91 

VI. The South Road from Hamilton to Tucker's 

Town . . . . . . . .92 

Bermuda Eastward 

(St. George's, St. Daznd's and the Islands in Castle: Harbour) 

I. From the Causeway to St. George's . . lOO 

II. The Town of St. George's . . . . loi 

III. St. David's Island in 

a. Smith's Island 113; b. Paget's Island, 113. 

IV. The Islands in Castle Harbour . . .114 

a. Castle Island, 115; b. Southampton Island, 116; 
c. Cooper's Island, 117; d. Gumett Rock, 118, 

Bermuda Westward 

(Paget West, Warwick, Somerset and Ireland Island) 
I. The Middle Road, from Hamilton to Gibb's 

Hill 119 

II. The North Shore Road from Hamilton to 
■ Riddle's Bay 123 

III. The South Shore Road . . . .124 

IV. The Middle Road from Gibb's Hill to Somer- 
set Ferry ....... 127^ 

V. From Somerset-Watford Bridge to Ireland 

Island Dockyard 132 

VI. The Islands in the Great Sound . . . 136 

The Outer Reefs 

I, The Sea-Gardens i39 

II. North Rock . . . . . . .141 



X RIDER'S BERMUDA 

LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS 

MAPS IN COLOR 

Facing Page 

Plate I. The City of Hamilton 50 

'* II. The Town of St. George's ..... 102 

" III. The Bermuda Islands . . . . . .130 

MAP IN THE TEXT 

Facing Page 
Atlantic Ocean showing the position of the Bermudas . . 49 



INTRODUCTION 

I. General Description of Bermuda 

Bermuda, or the Bermudas or Somers Islands, one of 

the 'oldest British Colonies in the Western Hemisphere, ante- 
dating Plymouth by eleven years, and politically the "Eldest 
Daughter of the oldest Parliament in the world," lies in 
32° 14' 45" N. lat. and 64° 49' 55" W. long, calculated from 
Gibb's Hill Light House. It is situated in the West Atlantic, 
in about the same meridian as Halifax in N'ova Scotia and 
St. Thomas, in the West Indies, being nearly equidistant (700 
mi.) from both ; and corresponds in latitude nearly with 
Madeira and Charleston, S. C. From New York the dis- 
tance is given as 666 nautical mi., from the "Bar" in New 
York Harbor to St. David's Light. The nearest point on the 
Atlantic coast is Cape Hatteras, 568 mi. 

The group O'f islands constituting Bermuda are the ex- 
posed portions of the crest of a submarine mountain, one of 
an isolated chain of three similar cone-sihaped summits, prob- 
ably of volcanic origin, rising some 15,000 ft. from the bed 
of the Atlantic, and connected b}-' a ridge of about half their 
height. Bermuda, the most northerly, and the only one 
emerging from the water, has often been compared in size 
and form to Mt. Blanc. About 10 mi. S. W. is the second peak, 
the Challenger Bank, whose nearest approach to the surface 
is 26 fathoms; and 9 mi. further, the Argus Bank, 40 fathoms 
deep (named respectively from the Challenger expedition of 
1877, and the Argus expedition, which first located and meas- 
ured them). 

The summit of the cone forming the foundation of Ber- 
muda is an irregular ellipse, the circumference being formed 
by a chain of reefs and sunken rocks, and measuring about 
25 mi. E. and W., by 13 mi. N. and S. The greater part of 
the enclosed area is now submerged, due, it is believed, to a 
subsidence in a comparatively recent geologic period, and 
lies at an average depth of from 2 to 6 fathoms below the 
surface, forming the famous Sea Gardens (p. I39)- But 
in pre-historic times it constituted a Greater Bermuda, ex- 
tending over the whole crest of the cone — of which the only 
visible remnants are the famous North Rocks (p. 141 )» lying 
almost 10 miles N. of Flatts Village (PI. III-^Ms)- -The 
Bermuda of modern times, however, occupies only a fraction 
of this area, and consists of a long, narrow chain of islands, 



xii RIDER'S BERMUDA 

lying along the lower rim of the ellipse, and variously ex- 
timated at from loo to 365 separate islands (or one for every 
day in the year). Less than a score of these islands, how- 
ever, are inhabited; and of the eight important islands, all 
but one, St. David's, are connected by bridges and highways 
into a homogeneous whole. 

Physical Contour. Bermuda has been variously compared 
to a crescent, a fishhook and a shepherd's crook. A more 
accurate comparison is to a long, thin arm, extending west- 
ward, with abnormally elongated fingers curving upward. 
In the broad thick portion of the upper arm lies Castle Har- 
bour, lone of three partly enclosed bodies of water, with St. 
George's Island and the old capital on the N. Just beyond, 
where the elbow broadens out, lies the second body of water, 
Harrington Sound; while, at the W. end within the fingers' 
curve lies the Great Sound, extending eastward between 
fingers and thumb, to form Crow's Lane or Hamilton Har- 
bour, with the present capital on the N. sihore. The com- 
bined surface area of al] the islands is estimated at 12,378 
acres, or about 1954 sq. mi. 

Bermuda owes much of its picturesquesness to its surface 
irregularites. Not only is its coast line broken by hundreds 
of bay and promontories,- but its whole surface is a succes- 
sion of mounds or hills, more or less covered by cedar trees ; 
and while the average height of the land is from 25 to 50 ft. 
above sea level, there are a number of hills ranging from 
180 ft. to 245 ft.— Gibb's Hill— and 260 ft— at Town Hill (PI. 
Ill — Ms) on Harrington Sound, the highest point on the 
Island. 

These mounds and hills form certain well defined ridges, with 
picturesque _ valleys between them. One of these ridges ascends from 
Spanish Point, Pembroke, and continues E. along the North Shore to 
Flatts Village, where it slopes again to the level of Harrington Sound. 
Around the Sound the ground rises with irregular abruptness, reaching 
greatest height in the above-mentioned Town Hill, on W. shore, and 
showing some especially wild and rugged aspects in a long stretch of 
precipitous cliffs, rising for a sheer 100 ft. on the N. shore. A second 
and longer ridge runs W. from the beach at Tucker's Town, following 
the curve of the South Shore, clear to Wreck Hill, in Somerset, and 
terminating at Daniel's Head. The rising ground on both sides of 
Hamilton Harbour fo'rms a valley in Pembroke, which the intervening 
Prospect Hill separates from the valley of Devonshire; and still another 
in Paget, from which a spur continues W. through Warwick, ending at 
Riddle's Bay in the Great Sound. 

Owing to its position on a mountain crest, and to the 
porous nature of its surface rock, Bermuda has no rivers, 
streams or even natural springs. The only sound of running 
water heard in the Islands is the intermittent dripping from 



GENERAL DESCRIPTION- xjii 

stalactites deep down in Bermuda Caves, where accumulated 
rain water slowly filters through the porous limestone above. 
There are a number of so-called lakes and ponds, chiefly along 
the S. portion of the main island; but these, like the lakes 
at the bottom of practically all the Caves, are brackish pools, 
lying approximately at sea level, and largely fed by the sea, 
through subterranean fissures. 

Political Divisions. Bermuda is divided both for admin- 
istrative and ecclesiastical purposes into nine Parishes, which 
date back almost to the establishment of the Colony. When 
Richard Norwood, the Colony's first Surveyor, made his 
survey and allotted the shares to the original "Adventurers" 
or subscribers of the Somers Islands Company in 1616, he 
first set aside "St. George's Island, St. David's Island, Long 
Bird Island, Smith's Island, Cooper's Island, Coney Island, 
Nonsuch Island, part of the Main (i. e. Tucker's Town to 
Castle Point), and sundry small islands, to be the General 
Land and employed for public uses, as for the maintainance 
of the Governor, Ministers, Commanders of the Forts, soldiers 
and such like." These islands, comprising the whole eastern 
group of the Bermuda archipelago, now constitute St. George's 
Parish. 

The rest of Bermuda, comprising the Main Island, Som- 
erset, Watford, B'oaz and Ireland Islands, together with the 
islands in the Great Sound, Norwood divided into eight 
"Tribes," naming them, according to instructions, after the 
eight most distinguished charter members of the Company. 
In geographic order from E. to W. they are as follows: 

Hamilton Tribe, originally called Bedford's after Lucy, Countess 
of Bedford (d. 1627), who transferred her interests to James, Second 
Marquis of Hamilton. 

Smith's Tribe, named after Sir Thomas Smith (1558-1625), at one 
time Governor of the East India Co.. and Treasurer until 1620, of the 
Virginia Co. He financed voyages for the discovery of the northwest 
passage, and his name was given by William Baffin to Smith's Sound. 

Devonshire Tribe, originally called Cavendish, after William Caven- 
dish, later created First Earl of Devonshire (d. 1625). 

Pembroke Tribe named from William Herbert, Third Earl of 
Pembroke (1580-1630). He is identified with the "Onlie begetter" men- 
tioned in the dedication of Shakespeare's Sonnets; and is one of "the 
incomparable pair of brethren" to whom the first folio of Shakespeare 
is dedicated. He was a member of the King^s Council for the Virginia 
Co., and the Rappahannock River was originally called Pembroke River 
in his honor. 

Paget Tribe was named after William, Fourth Lard Paget (1572- 
1629). 

Warwick Tribe, was originally called Mansell's, after Sir Robert 
Mansell, or Mansfield, who sold out his interest to Robert Rich, Second 
Earl of Warwick (1587-1658). The latter was for many years Goverror 
of the Company. 



xiv RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Southampton Tribe, named after Henry Wriothsley, Third Earl of 
Southampton (1573-1624). He was an incorporator of the Northwest 
Passage Co., and a member of the Virginia Co., and his name is com- 
memorated by Southampton Hundred, Hampton River and Hampton 
Roads in Virginia. 

Sandys Tribe, named from Sir Edwin Sandys (1561-1629), 2d son 
of Archbishop of Sandys of York, knighted in 1603. 

II. The Geology of Bermuda 

Geologists have long agreed that the Bermuda Islands rest 
upon the flattened and eroded summit of a vast submarine 
volcano, similar in character to that of Pico in the Azores, 
or the Peak of Teneriffe. The problem was complicated by 
the fact that so far as the visible structure is concerned, nothing 
of volcanic origin has been discovered, the rock being all lime- 
stone, together with red clays resulting from its decomposi- 
tion ; and nearly all these rocks, both above sea level and below 
it to a considerable depth, are a true aeolian limestone formed 
by the consolidation of wind-drifted shell-sand. The evidence 
of volcanic origin, however, is threefold: i. Physical forma- 
tion ; 2. Magnetic variations ; 3. Deep borings. 

Physical Formation. As revealed by deep-sea soundings, 
the Great Bermuda Volcano rises in an irregular cone to a 
height of about 15,000 ft., the surrounding ocean bed lying 
at a depth of about 2500 fathoms. Its submerged slopes on 
all sides are very steep, the N. side being , steeper than that 
of any known large volcano upon drv land, falling off 1250 
fathoms in six miles. The two smaller connected peaks, or 
side cones, known respectively as the Challenger Bank and the 
Argus Bank, are in general formation similar to the great 
Bermuda cone, but not so steep, the most abrupt slope on one 
side of the Argus Bank being only 7620 ft. in ten miles. These 
two submerged cones h'ave from 20 to 40 fathoms of water 
over them ; but in one place the Argus Bank rises to within 
8 fathoms of the surface. 

Magnetic Variations. During the expedition of 1877 the 
officers of the Challenger detected certain remarkable magnetic 
variations in different parts of the Islands, which could hardly 
be explained from any other cause than the presence, of iron- 
bearing volcanic rock not far beneath the surface : 

"The observations made by the Expedition showed that the variations 
differed in various parts of the Island as much as 6°, ranging from 
4° W. to 10° W., the smallest amount being found at a small islet just 
under the lighthouse on Gibb's Hill (PI. Ill — C6) ^ and the greatest on 
the west side of Clarence Cove (PI. Ill — H3). Such variations do' not 
exist at sea, a few miles from the Islands." — "Voyage of H. M. S. 
Challenger." 

Deep Borings. A few years ago when digging founda- 
tions for an extension of Mt. St. Agnes, Pembroke, some bits 



GEOLOGY OF BERMUDA xv 

of stone were unearthed, resembling volcanic tufa ; but this 
evidence was inconclusive as they might have come from 
external sources. Geologists agreed that the question must 
await the evidence of deep borings, as for an Artesian well — 
and such a boring was made early in the year 1914. The 
location was on the slope of a hill nearly a mile W. of Gibb's 
Lighthouse, at an elevation of 135 ft. above sea level, and 
the depth attained by the boring was 1400 ft. The pulverized 
rock, chips, etc., removed at successive intervals, were sub- 
mitted for examination to the U. S. Geological Survey; and 
according to the subsequent report, the successive strata pene- 
trated, were as follows: 

"The first 360 feet are in the limestone of the ustial character 
known in Bermuda. Below this for 200 feet, soft yellowish to brown, 
often clay-like rocks are met, whose nature indicates that they are 
more or less decomposed volcanic tufa. Below them blackish, to gray 
compact volcanic rock is found, of andesitic and basaltic appearance. 
The study of a section made from a chip indicate that this is lava, 
and though considerably altered, an augite-andesite. This rock con- 
tinues without change for the further 800 feet penetrated." 

Date of Formation. Although necessarily very uncertain, 
the geological period of the Bermuda volcano is believed to 
correspond with the last great eruption along the nearest 
North American mainland, toward the close of the Triassic 
period, which witnessed the immense outburst that occurred 
along the eastern coast, from North Carolina to Nova Scotia, 
resulting in the Palisades of the Hudson, and Mt. Tom, Mt. 
Holyoke, the Meriden Hills, etc., along the Connecticut 
valley. 

"After the volcano became extinct there followed a vast period of 
time, during which the action, of the sea undermined and leveled down 
the materials of the volcanic cones, filling up the crater more or_ less 
completely, at the same time, ini case any deep central pits remained. 
This period of erosion may have lasted through all the Jurassic, Cre- 
taceous and Eocene periods, with more or less oscillation of level. It 
is probable that during those periods, more or less extensive reefs of 
coral and deposits of shell-sand were formed, for during the Jurassic 
period reefs and coral existed as far north as Middle Europe, and the 
climate in the latitude of Bermuda in, the Cretacean and Eocene periods 
must have been much warmer than at present. The final result of 
erosion of the larger volcanic cones must have been to form submerged 
banks or shoals at a suitable depth for the abundant growth of corals, 
mollusks, etc." — A. E. I'errill. 

Pliocene Bermuda. At a subsequent period probably to- 
ward the close of the Miocene, the Bermuda reefs and shoals 
were gradually upraised, until practically the whole of Greater 
Bermuda, constituting the area now comprised within the 
outermost reefs, became dry land. This area was probably 
something over 230 sq. mi., or more than 11 times that of 
present-day Bermuda, which is estimated at 19 1/3 sq. mi. 



xvi RIDER'S BERMUDA 

From the evidence furnished by the later subsidence oL" the 
land, it is believed that the highest elevation attained at any 
period by the sand-dunes, was somewhat over 450 ft. This 
was probably the result of a slow and continued emergence 
of the land, while the sand-dunes were forming, rather than 
the drifting of wind-blown sand to such a height, though the 
latter was not impossible. The method of formation, how- 
ever, is less significant than the vast lapse of time required 
for the growth and multiplication of the little shells and 
minute organisms in sufficient quantities to pile up the great 
dunes from which the high hills of Bermuda were built. 
Furthermore, an enormous bulk must have been lost by solu- 
tion in the process of forming the red soil of Bermuda, which 
covers the greater part of the Islands with a layer varying 
from 2 in. to a foot in thickness, and which represents but 
an insignificant per cent of the material lost. 

The great lapse of time required for the building up of 
Greater Bermuda makes it probable that it had attained most 
of its growth in the Pliocene or Fre-Glacial period, and had 
then acquired a large flora and fauna of its own, including 
perhaps the Bermuda cedar and palmetto, with other species 
that are now extinct. With a warmer and moister climate 
than at present, a far more luxurious vegetation must have 
existed, as the great size and vast numbers of fossil land- 
snails testify. 

There is aibundant evidence that Greater Bermuda under- 
went a gradual subsidence, amounting to not less than 100 to 
120 ft., during the decline of the Glacial period, and probably 
coinciding with the Champlain or Laurentian period of eastern 
North America. The most obvious proof of such subsidence, 
patent to every visitor, is the presence in nearly all the caves, 
of stalagmites rising from the cave floor through many feet 
of salt water. As no stalagmite could be formed under such 
conditions it is evident that the floor level of these caves 
must have been safely above high water mark. The most 
striking instance is furnished by the so-called "island" in 
Prosperous Cave, in the Joyce's Dock group (PI. Ill — P3), 
a soilid stalagmitic mass rising through 30 ft. of water. 
A second line of evidence is furnished by the thick beds of peat 
in many parts of the Islands, and notably in Pembroke Marsh 
and Devonshire Swamp. Borings have shown that the peat 
in Pembroke Marsh is about 40 ft. deep, its bottom extending 
many feet below sea-level, thus proving that the land has 
subsided considerably, since peat does not form in salt ponds. 
Still more striking proof was afiforded by the" excavations 
made in the Camber in preparing the bed for the great float- 



GEOLOGY OF BERMUDA xvii 

ing dock at Ireland Island (PI. Ill — Gi) (p. 133) • Twenty- 
five feet below the surface a 5-ft. bed of calcareous mud was 
encountered, underlain 'by 20 ft. of coral sand mixed with 
shells, and below that, 45 ft. below low-water mark, a bed of 
peat, containing stumps of cedar in a vertical position, this 
peat bed lying upon the ordinary hard limestone. In i860 
sulbmarine iblastings in Hamilton Harbour revealed a sunken 
cavern at a depth of 6 fatliom.s, containing stalactites and red 
earth. 

"During this long period of subsidence, there was an immense 
amount of erosion by the sea, and much of the lonver parts of the 
previous dry land of the interior was finally covered by the sea, gradu- 
ally bringing about the present condition of things. NeAv sand-drift 
rock was also forming during all this period. During this period also, 
many species of plants and animals were introduced from North 
America and the West Indies, by winds, drift-wood, birds, etc., thus 
forming a new fauna and flora, combined with some remnants of those 
that had survived the glacial storms. 

There are many geological phenomena most easily ex- 
plained by the hypothesis that after the period of subsidence 
these islands underwent a slight re-elevation of between 6 and 
10 ft., at a period probably corresponding to that in which 
New England and eastern Canada underwent a much greater 
re-elevation. 

As already pointed out, nearly all the rocks of the Ber- 
mudas, both above sea-level and to a considerable depth below 
it. are made up of wind-drifted shell-sand, with a small per- 
centage of material derived from corals, corallines, fora- 
minifera, bryozoa, etc., "which, when consolidated often form 
a hard and compact limestone. Such stone is believed by 
some geologists to represent an older formation, underlying 
the whole Island, and they have accordingly given it the name 
of "base-rock." Prof. Alexander Agassiz, however, has con- 
tended that these harder limestones are simply the ordinary 
aeolian formations, indurated by the combined action of air 
and sea-water, and that they m.ay belong to any period. Prof; 
Verrill finds a measure of truth in both these views, but 
points out that while superficial induration is common enough, 
it does not convert thick strata of limestone above sea-level 
into the uniform and compact m.arble-Hke limestone such as 
constitutes much of the so-called "base-rock" of the south 
shores. Much of this, he claims, is of comparatively^ late 
origin, and merely unusually compact examples of ordinary 
aeolian rock. He draws, however, a most interesting distinction 
between these later formations and what he believes to be a 
much older rock, dating from the Pliocene period, to which 
'he gives the new name of "Walsingham Formation," because 



xviii RIDER'S BERMUDA 

its characteristics are especially promineiit 'n the whole tract 
bordering on Harrington Sound. The distinctive mark of 
these older Bermudian strata is that the}^ contain several 
species of extinct land-snails, the largest and most abundant 
being the PoecUozonites Nelsoni. 

"The most prominent and characteristic of the rdcks are the com- 
pact and hard aeolian limestones which have become so highly infiltrated 
with calcite that the original sand-drift structure has become obscured 
or lost. ... In some cases they include layers or pockets of imper- 
fectly consolidated or loose shell-sand. Between these layers of lime- 
stone are successive layers of 'red cjay' — a decomposition product, 
representing ancient soils, and often containing extinct land-snails. 
The red clay may be more or less indurated by infiltration of calcite, 
or stalactitic materials, with which and the shells it sometimes forms 
a breccia-like reddish mass. The fossil land-snails occur in the lime- 
stone, whether it be consolidated or friable, but are most abundant 
in those portions connected with the layers of red clay, especially in 
and just above the latter." — A. E. Verrill. 

This Walsingham limestone is found at all levels, from 
below the low-tide mark to a 70-ft. elevation or more. Most 
of the large caverns and sinks, such as those in the Walsing- 
ham vicinity, seem to be of this formation. It outcrops in 
many other places on the south side of Castle Harbour, and 
along the neck of land from Tucker's Town to Castle. Point. 
(PI. Ill— R6). Shark's Hole and Devil's Hole both seem to 
be excavated in this formation, and there is an especially 
interesting exposure of it in an old quarry near Payn'er's 
Vafe (p. 98), formery worked for Government purposes. 
Here the red clay above the harder limestone contains be ides 
the usual extinct land-snails, many large marine spiral shells 
{Livona pica), which must have been carried over the hills 
from the beaches by large land hermit crabs, who used them 
for shelter. 

Proto-Bermuda. What the general configuration of 
Greater Bermuda must have been when the exposed surface 
fi.liled the area oif the ellipse now outlined by the outer reefs, 
is recorded in the existing shoals and channels, with a clear- 
ness easily read by the geologist. According to A'gassiz the 
whole existing group forming the familiar fish-hook from 
Ireland Island to St. David's Head, must in earlier times have 
been considerably wider. The present Main Island must have 
extended south beyond the line of the reefs, completely bar- 
ring the access oir the sea, to the large sinks which later, 
through erosion and subsidence formed Castle Harbour and 
St. George's Harbour. The Island of St. George's probably 
extended far enough eastward to form the western edge of 
the present Ship Canal valley (the main steamshin ent-ance 
to Bermuda). On the south west the Main Island extended 
to Hogfish Cut valley; while Somerset and Ireland Island are 



HISTORY OF BERMUDA xix 

believed to have been connected by a ridge with Spanish Point 
(PI. III-^G3), thus cutting- off the Great Sound and Hamilton 
Harbour from the outer lagoons on the north. Hamilton 
Harbour and Port iRoyal Bay were probably both disconnected 
sinks, cut off by low saddles from Great Sound sink. 

In the area north of present-day Bermuda, where the shoals and 
Sea Gardens extend for nine miles.' c'ear to the North Rock, Agassiz 
finds indications of five great Sounds, larger than any now existing. 
One lay at the northwest, bounded bv hills, of which the remnants are 
the Ledge Flats, W. of the Hogfish Cut, and N. of Chaddock, Little 
and Long Bars^ which pass to the E. of Chub Head as far as Chub 
Cut, cjonnecting with Elies Flat. The other four were situated as 
follows: 

"One bounded on the southwest by the hills of Elies Flat, on the 
northwest by ihe hills of the ledge fiat extending north from Chub Cut, 
on the north by the line) of flats running east in the direction of' Three 
Hill Shoals, till they strike the eastern face of the sound formed by the 
Bra(C|kish Pond Flats, the ea tern boundary reaching toward Spanish 
Point, and separated from the shoals north of it by the Ship Channel 
valley. 

"The second sound is enclosed by the Brackish Pond Flats on the 
west, by the Bailey Bay Flats on the north and east, and by the Main 
Island on the south. 

"The third is the Murray Anchorage Sound, limited on the W. by 
the Bailey Bay Flats, on the X. and E. by the Three Hill Shoals and 
the fiats west of Mills Breaker. The third sound opened by a narrow, 
deep valley (the Ship Channel) towards the sea, and connected by a 
wide passage with the fourth sound bounded by the ledge flats of the 
northwest part of the Bermudas — flats which extend from north of 
Western Blue Cut to Eastern Ledge Flats — and on the southern edge 
by the line of the Three Hill Shoals and by the western extension of the 
Bailey's Bay flats." — Alexander Agassiz. 

This proto-Bermudian land must have borne in its suc- 
cession of valleys and sand hills, and its many deeply indented 
coves and bays, a fairly close resemblance to the Bermudian 
landscape of today. It Avas reduced to its present condition 
by the same natural forces that we can still see at work on 
the existing islands of the group. 

III. The Discovery and History of Bermuda 

The discovery of Bermuda is attributed to a Spanish navi- 
gator, Juan de Bermudez. whose visit to the Islands in 15 15 
in a vessel natned La Garza (The Heron), is described bv 
Gonzales Oviedo in his Hisforia de las Indias : 

"In the veere 151 5 . . . I sayled about the Island Bermuda, 
otherwise called Garza, being the furthest of all the i?-lands that are 
found at this day in the world and arriving there at the depth of eight 
yards of water andj distant from the land as far as the shot of a piece 
of ordinance, I determined to ■^end some of the ship to land, so as to 
make search of such tilings as were there, as also to leave in the 
island certaine hogs for increase. But the time not serving my purpose 
by reason of contrarie winde. I could bring my ship no nearer the 
island, being 12 leagues in length, and 6 in breadth, and about 30 in 
circuit." — Oviedo, Richard Eden's Translation. 



XX RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Thereafter the Islands were known either as Bermuda, 
from the finder, or La Garza, from his ship. If, however, 
the honor of discovery rightly belongs to this Bermudez, he 
must have known of the Islands from an earlier voyage; for 
in one of the rarest of books, the Legatio Babylonica, by Peter 
Martyr, printed in 1511, there is a map of the Atlantic Ocean, 
upon which "La ibermuda" appears plainly inscribed, thus 
antedating by several years the voyage described by Oviedo. 

Whatever interest the news of the discovery may have 
awakened, Spain seems to have taken no step to confirm her 
sovereignty over the Islands; yet in 1527 King Philip II made 
a grant of them to one T. Ferdinando (or Hernando) Camelo. 
who was not a Spaniard, but a Portuguese from the Island 
of St. Michael, one of the Azores, who, "knowing the wish 
the King had to people the Island of Bermuda, offered to 
estaiblish a settlement therein of a good number of persons 
within four years" (Herrera). That the Bermudas already 
had an evil reputation is implied by the concession made in 
the grant, that because of the difficulty of securing Spanish 
or Portuguese settlers, the proposed colony need not he limited 
to them. There is no record that anything ever came of this 
scheme. But in Bermuda there is a firm local belief that 
Camelo landed on the Islands in 1543 to take possession, and 
that it was he who inscribed the curious monogram, with a 
cross and date, still to be seen on Spanish Rock (p. 98), on 
the south coast of Smith's Parish. 

In 1593 the crew of a French buccaneer, including one 
Englishman, Henry May, were shipwrecked on the reefs north- 
west of Bermuda Dec. 17, about midnight. When at last, 
with great difficulty, they made land upon a raft, they nearly 
perished with thirst before water was found. Food, how^ever, 
w^as abundant, for the Islands were overrun with wild hogs, 
thus proving that May and his companions were not the first 
who had landed there. It took them five months to build a 
small bark of some 18 tons, "for the most part with tronnels 
and very few^ nails" ; and instead of pitch they made a mortar 
of lime mixed with the oil of tortoises, with which thev filled 
the seams. They finally set sail for Newfoundland May 11. 
1594, reaching Cape Breton on the 20th. Henry May reached 
England in Aug., w^here he published an account of his adven- 
tures, and made known for the first time, that Bermuda was 
not one bod}' of land, hut a group of many islands. 

In 1609 there occurred another and more momentous ship- 
wreck, since it led to the colonization of Bermuda bv Great 
Britain. In the spring of that year the Virginia Company 
oF London sent out its third expedition to the American colony 



HIiSTORY OF BERMUDA xxi 

in a fleet of nine vessels, containing upward of 500 colonists, 
including some women and children. Admiral Sir Ueorge 
Somers, Capt. Christopher Newport and Sir Thomas Gates, 
the new Deputy-^General for Virginia, were appointed leaders 
for the expedition, and all three went in the flagship, the Sea 
Venture. Sailing from Plymouth June 2, the vessels kept 
together until July 25, when a furious storm broke, scattering 
the fleet. The next morning the Sea Venture found herself 
alone and leaking badly. For three days and nights they 
labored hopelessly at the pumps, with the water steadily gain- 
ing. As the old chronicle records, "the Governor and Admiral 
took their turns, and gentlemen who had never done an hour's 
hard work in their lives, now, their minds helping their bodies, 
toiled with the best." When all hope of being saved was 
abandoned, they filled their glasses and drank to each other 
"A last leave before meeting in a better world," and at that 
instant, on July 28th, 1609, Sir George Somers cried out 
"Land !"' Shortly afterward the vessel struck and was held 
tight-wedged between two rocks on what is still called Sea 
Venture Flatts, off the E. end of St. George's. 

To their great relief, the castaways found the reputed Isle 
of the Devils, "the richest, healthfulest and pleasantest" they 
ever saw. Wild hogs were still abundant; and the supply ot 
turtles, birds and fish seemed inexhaustible. Although manv 
of the little company would gladlv have settled down in this 
land of abundance, the leaders could not forget their obliga- 
tions to the London Company and the expectant colony in 
Virginia. Accordingly they proceeded to build two vessels 
of cedar, one of some 80 tons, which was named the 
Deliverance ; the other a pinnace of 30 tons, named the 
Patience, which, according to tradition, was built at th- spot 
still known as Buildings Bay. In these two ships the entire 
company once more sailed for Virginia, having then been in 
Bermuda between 9 and 10 months. 

During these months there were several deaths, one mar- 
riage and two births, a boy named Bermudez, and a girl named 
Bermuda. The latter who died shortly afterward, was a child, 
bv first marriage, of John Rolfe, who later, in Virginia, is 
supposed to have married Powhattan's daughter, Pocahontas, 
"merely for the good and honor of the Plantation." 

Reaching Jamestown on May 23, Somers and his party 
•were hailed with joy and amazement, having long been given 
up as dead. They found the settlement in an almost destitute 
condition, with but 60 half starved survivors out of the 500 
who constituted the colonv of Jamestown onlv six months 



xxii RIDER'S BERMUDA 

earlier. Mindful of the abundant food in Bermuda, Admiral 
Somers volunteered to return there and found a permanent 
colony; from which regular, supplies could be sent to Virginia. 
The strain, however, of these successive voyages proved too 
great for his advanced years, and he died in Nov., 1610, 
not far from the spot where his monument now stands in 
the Somers Gardens. His heart was removed and buried 
at St. George's ; his body was taken by his nephew, Capt. 
Matthew Somers, back to England, and buried in Dorset. 
All the colonists returned home at the same time, with the 
exception of three men who volunteered to remain behind, 
and whom Washington Irving has immortalised under the 
title, "The Three Kings of Bermuda, and Their Lost 
Ambergris." 

Widespread interest in the Islands was aroused b}^ the 
reports brought to England by the returning colonists, and 
especially by the published. accounts by two of Lord Somers' 
companions, Sil. Jourdain and W. Strachey, from whom it has 
long been claimed that Shakespeare derived his material for 
"The Tempest." 

The theory is that Shakespeare read Jourdain's book, and talked 
it over with Strachey, whom he might well have know^n in 16 10, since 
they were close neighbors in London. Malone, one of the earliest Shake- 
spearian commentators, was convinced that the Bermudas were the scene 
of Shake:peares' play, and his belief has been shared by many others, 
including the poet, Moore, and more recently Rudyard Kipling, who 
insists tliat he knows the very beach wjiere one of the scenes takes 
place. 

The narratives of Strachey and Jourdain, with their glow- 
ing account of the richness of the Islands in hogs and fish 
and tobacco, as well as the abundance of whales in the neigh- 
boring waters, and more especially the finding of the rare and 
costly substance known as ambergris, had the effect of keenly 
interesting the Virginia proprietors. Their original charter 
gave the Virginia Company jurisdiction only over the islands 
within 100 miles of the mainland, which of course excluded the 
Bermudas. Accordingly, they requested, and in 1612 procured, 
an additional grant, to include all islands within 300 leagues. 
As soon as their title to the Bermudas was secured by this 
amplification of the charter, 120 of the Virginia "Adventurers" 
formed a sub-Compan}-, who called the Islands "Virginiola," 
to show their close connection with the affairs of the Virginia 
plantation. This name, however, was short-lived, for a friend 
of Sir Dudley Carleton, writing on Feb. 12, 1612, says : 

"The Bermudas have changed their name twice within this month, 
being first christened Virginiola. but now lately resolved to be called 
the Slimmer Islands, aal well in respect of the continued temperate air, 
as in remembrance of Sir George Sommer'^. who died there." 



HISTORY OF BERMUDA xxiii 

Popular interest in the Bermudas was all the keener 
because of the amazing contrast offered by the exaggerated 
accounts of a new Eldorado, as compared with the evil repute 
the Islands had so long borne. The Earl of Southampton, 
the last presiding official of the Virginia I'ompany, in a 
despatch to King James announcing the arrival of the first 
colony at the Islands, stated "that the Spaniards, dismayed 
at the frequency of hurricanes, durst not adventure there, but 
call it Daemoniorum Insulam, and that the English merchants 
had sent home some am^ber and seed pearls, which the devils 
of Bermuda love not better to retain than the angels ot Castile 
to recover." c 

William Crashaw, the eloquent divine, and father of the poet, 
wrote in 1613: "Who did not think till within these four years, but that 
these Islands had been rather a habitation of devils than fit for a man 
to dwell in? Who did not hate the name when he was on land, and 
shun the place when he was on seas? But behold the misprision and 
conceit of the world! For time and large experience have now told 
us it is one of the sweetest paradises that be upoil the earth." 

In 1612 one Richard More, a ship's carpenter, was sent 
out by the Virginia Company as first Governor, sailing on 
April 28. in the Plough, with 60 settlers, and arriving in Ber- 
muda July II. They landed on the south side of Smith's 
Island, and there established the seat of government, W'hich, 
however, was soon after transferred to the site of the present 
town of St. George's. Consequentlv this is the oldest English 
settlement now surviving in the Western Hemisphere, ante- 
dating that of Plymouth, Mass., by eight years. 

Upon More's arrival in Bermuda he found the three men. 
Carter, Chard and Waters, who had remained alone upon the 
Islands alive and w^ell. These men had discovered and con- 
cealed a large quantity of am^bergris, and conspired to transport 
it secretly to England. The Governor discovered the plot, 
seized the ambergris in the name of the Company; and Chard, 
the ringleader, was condemned to be hanged, and was reprieved 
only when on the gallows. 

Ambergris, a secretion of the sperm whale, 'highly prized as a 
basis of perfumery, and formerly also used in pharmacy and in cooking, 
was worth several pounds sterling per ounce in the London market. 
It was found lodged along the shores and reefs, sometimes in lumps 
weighing from 50 to 200 lbs. ^That the Company anticipated dishonesty 
is shown by the following instructions to one of the early governors: 

"As touchinge the findinge of Ambergreece upon shore which is 
driven up by every storme where the wind bloweth, we would have you 
remember .that by such as you appointe "to that business . . . you 
may be decieaved of the best and fayrest except you be very carefull 
in your choice of honest men." 

Governor More laid out St. George's in accordance w^ith 
instructions given by the Company, substantially as we see it 



xxiv RIDER'S BERMUDA 

tocla_v, with every street-end opening into a central market 
place, so that a few pieces of ordinance might command them 
all. He erected the first church fcuilt on the Islands, of cedar 
timber ; and when that was blown down, he built a second, 
of palmetto leaf, choosing a more sheltered spot, still occupied 
today by St. Peter's. In June, 1613. on the arrival ot another 
ship bringing potatoes, he made the first planting of what has 
been a staple product of Bermuda ever since. 

More's chief activities, however, were devoted to the erec- 
tion of eight forts to protect the Islands against possible 
invasion. These forts guarded the entrance to St. George's 
Harbour on the east, and Castle Harliour on the south, and 
were named in order St. Catherine's, Warwick, Gates, Paget's, 
Smith's, Pembroke and Charles' Forts, and King's Castle, on 
Castle Island. There is only one occasion recorded when any 
of these forts did active service. In June, 1613, two strange 
vessels, believed to be Spanish, were seen cautiously picking 
their way toward the entrance to Castle Harbour, when two 
shots, fired from King's Castle, caused them to depart quickly. 
This was fortunate since those two shots exhausted the avail- 
able supply of ammunition and powder. 

In 1613 the Virginia Company sold out their rights to the 
Bermuda Islands, to the sub-Company, whfch now assumed 
the name of "The Governor and Company -^of the City of 
London for the Plantation of the Somer Islands." The amount 
paid was £2000. 

Some two years later, 011 June 29, 1615. King James granted a 
cliarter of incorporation to this sub-company under its new name, the 
charter members of which include the names of "Henry Earl of 
Southampton, Lucy Countess of Bedford, William Earl of Pembroke, 
William Lord Paget, William Lord Cavandish, Sir Robert Rich, Sir 
Thomas Smith, Sir Robert Maunsell. Sir Edwin Sandys, etc." — names 
that for the most part survive to-day in the names of the Bermuda 
Parishes. This charter authorized a General Assembly, with full power 
to make laws,, provided they were in accordance with those of England. 
Tlie Governor's term was fixed at three years. 

In 1615 the Company sent out a surveyor named Bartlett 
with instructions to divide the Islands into Tribes (Parishes), 
and the Tribes into Shares. Governor More, however, finding 
that no shares had been allotted to him or to the colonists, 
refused to allow the survey, and Bartlett returned to England 
with his errand unfulfilled. More, dissatisfied with his treat- 
ment by the Company, and his appointed time now having 
expired, also returned to England, leaving the local Govern- 
ment in charge of a Council of Six, who were to succeed each 
other in monthly rotation until further instructions from the 
Company. 



HISTORY OF BERMUDA xxv 

The first Governor sent out under the new charter was 
Capt. Daniel Tucker, an early settler in Virginia, to whom the 
Company ga^e minute instructions regarding the government 
to be established in the Colony. 

The officers of the colony were to be: the Governor, Sheriff and 
Secretary. There were to be four Ministers, two Captains of the 
chief forts, and the tirsi of the Overseers oi the Public Land. The 
Governor and Council were to sit as Judges at General Sessions twice 
each year. The Governor was also required to hold a General Assembly 
every second year, at which he presided, with his Council, and had a 
veto. If the Council were unanimous they might also negative action. 
The first Assembly was held in 1620, and the second in 1622. The 
Bermuda Assembly as then constituted lasted for approximately 120 
years, and the union of the Goivernor and Council in the Session was 
regarded as so imiportant that when the innovation of making an Upper 
and a Lower House was proposed in 1627 by one Christopher Parker, 
he was prosecuted for sedition. 

Governor Tucker reached Bermuda in May, 1616. Mean- 
while, iRichard Norwood, Bermuda's first surveyor, sent in 
place of the rejected Bartlett, had completed the division of 
the Islands into eight Tribes, plus certain public lands which 
included the town of St. George's; but the division into 25- 
acre shares still remained to be done. About this time a plague 
of rats, imported in some ship, overran the Islands, destroying 
cultivation and reducing the people almost to starvation. Nor- 
wood, having by this time completed about one-half the work 
of subdivision, "starting from St. George's and working w-est 
through Hamilton. Smith's, Devonshire and Pembroke, was 
ordered by Governor Tucker to make a new start from the 
west end, for the alleged purpose of completing the survey of 
Somerset Island (so far spared by the rats) in time to plant 
the corn. The result of working alternately from opposite 
ends was a surplus of some 300 acres between Southampton 
and Sandys Tribes, which Governor Tucker appropriated to 
his own use — a proceeding which did not pass unchallenged as 
is plainly intimated in Norwood's own report: 

"They ordered that bavins: finished Pembroke Tribe, I should next 
goe in hand with Sommerseitt. I shewed ye Inconveniences of it, but 
being expressly so ordered by ye Governor and Counsell. I did forth- 
with subdivide Sommersett Is/land, and yt being finished returned to 
my former course. . . . This I thought good to expres=, because some 
have thought it was laid here for other ends and causes." 

In 1662 Norwood made a second survey, and prepared a 
careful map showing the shares and their ownership", which 
constitutes what LeFroy has called "the Domesday Book of 
the Islands." and which forms to this day the basis for real 
estate titles in Bermuda. Speaking of the conservative ten- 
dencies of the Bermudians and their reluctance to remove old 
landmarks, William Howard Taft says in general : 



xxvi RIDER'S BERMUDA 

"There is no people I know in this hemisphere who have shown 
the samei love of the past, the same adherance to the old-time traditions, 
as the members of this Lilliputian domain. . . . The history of no 
other self-g-overning- colony can be so clearly traced as Bermuda, and 
in the case of none other is the intimate family history of its early 
days made so familiar. ... Of course the reciords are somewhat 
fragmentary, but they are sufhciently full to bring one close to the 
life of this Island community, and to enable us to note their customs, 
their ambitions, their quarrels, their religion, their failings, their vices, 
their methods of government and their curious administration of justice." 

Governor Tucker proved to be a stern master. He adopted 
vigorous measures to compel the colonists to work for the 
Company, and enforced discipline with an iron hand. The 
6rst General Assize was held in St. George's June 15, 1616, 
and the first prisoner brought before the Court was a French- 
man, oddly named Jolm Wood, who was found guilty of 
making ''many distasteful and mutinous speaches against the 
Governor," and was accordingly condemned to he hanged. So 
harsh was Tucker's rule that many desperate attemps to escape 
from the Islands are recorded. Five oE the colonists, none of 
them sailors, on the pretext of building a fishing boat for the 
Governor's use, were allowed materials for their task; and 
upon completing it borrowed a compass from their preacher, and 
secretly set forth in this three-ton boat across the Atlantic. 
After 42 days they reached Ireland, where their exploit was 
considered so marvellous that the Earl of Thomond received 
and entertained them, and hung up the boat as a monument 
of their voyage. 

During Tucker's rule further progress was made in laying 
out the town of St. George's, and in planting tobacco, and 
setting out various other plants and fruit trees imported from 
the West Indies, including the fig, pineapple, sugar-cane, plan- 
tain and paw-paw. Governor Tucker also introduced the first 
slaves into Bermuda, an Indian and a negro. 

But the growing discontent of the people with Governor 
Tucker's rule, and especially with the fine cedar mansion he 
had built himself on the "overplus," decided him to return to 
England and personally secure his title to house and land. 
Although he later returned, dying in Bermuda in 1632, his 
sway as Governor was over, and Capt. Nathanial Butler was 
appointed in his stead, arriving in the Islands Oct. 20 1619. 

An interesting chapter in earlv Bermuda historv has only 
recently become known through the "Manchester Papers," or 
family documents of the Duke of Manchester, containing letters 
written by Lewis Hughes, a Presbyterian minister to Sir 
Nathanial Rich, a director of the Bermuda Company, and also 
a Presbyterian. Hughes took advantage of the temporary 
absence of Governor Tucker to establish "a church Govern- 



HISTOiRY O'F BERMUDA xxvii 

ment by Ministers and Elders, and to choose four Elders for 
the town publicly by the lifting of hands, and calling upon 
God." Hughes alleged that Tucker approved ; but Tucker 
claimed that he acquiesced only through fear lest if Hughes 
departed the colonists would be left without any religious 
service. It is certain that Presbyterianism was established in 
fact, if not by law, during the residence of this Minister who 
had full support of the Rich family. 

Butler's term of Governorship is known in considerable 
detail, since he left a minute account of the Colony's history 
which has been edited by Lefroy. His first Acts included the 
completion of St. Peter's church, and the repair and rebuilding 
of the forts and bastions begun by Governor More. During 
his first year of office, Aug. i, 1620, the first General Assembly 
met at St. George's, and 32 bills were passed, of which only 
15 received the approval of the Proprietors in England. 
Among the latter was a measure for the protection of native 
Bermuda birds. Another early law was one regulating the 
observance of the Sabbath. For the first offence a Sabbath 
breaker was subject to two days' imprisonment ■ and a fine of 
10 pounds of tobacco ; fo^r the second oflFence, 14 days' im- 
prisonment and 20 pounds fine. At this period tobacco was 
the principal local industry, and a pound of tobacco repre- 
sented the unit of value. 

By a proclamation dated April 9. 1625, King Charles I ordered 
that since the tobacco of \'irginia and Bermuda could be handled at 
satisfactory prices and profit only if under Government control, no 
tobacco should be imported into his Kingdom except that grown in 
Virginia or Bermuda, and the price paid for it should be fixed by 
law. Consequently the Company was able' for a time to realize a hand- 
some profit. But the colonists, know-ing that their tobacco was worth 
much more than the price they received, grew negligent in its cultivation 
and in its curing and packing, and in the early part of the iStli century 
the industry was largely abandoned. 

Throughout the greater part of the 17th century, from 
Butler's time onward, the interest in the history of Bermuda 
centers mainly in its internal constitutional development. 
There are few spectacular episodes, and little, if any, contact 
with the world at large. 

"The history of the Colony from 1620. when the first Assembly 
met, until •1684, or 1685, when the Company was ousted of its charter 
by quo warranto in the King's Bench in England, is made up of the 
struggles of the Company in London to make as much out of the colonists 
as possible; of the struggles of the colonists to remove the restrictions 
on trade with others than the Company, imposed upon them by the 
proprietaricLS ; and of the efforts of Governors sent out to the Islands to 
maintain order, enforce the rules of the Comipany, and defend their 
authority and exercise too often arbitrary power." — William Hozvard 
Taft. 



xxviii RIDER'S BERMUDA 

The power of the Assembly, as this same writer points out. 
was in the beginning only that ot a petitioning and advisory 
body, seeking action by the executive, in whom all authority 
was centered; and the development of the Assembly into what 
it is today is interesting because it furnishes "a typical illus- 
tration of the growth of popular power through the ass:rtion 
by the Anglo-Saxon of his self-convinced rights." These 
changes were not accomplished without many a sharp conflict 
of authority; and few Governors went out of office without 
some suits at law being brought against them for false im- 
prisonment and other abuse of power. In the days of the 
Bermuda Company some of the Governors used questionable 
authority to punish the slightest infraction of the rules of 
conduct laid down by them ; and they did not hesitate at times 
to imprison even ministers of the Gospel who ventured to dis- 
agree with them. Indeed, this was so frequent an occurrence 
that an Act of Assembly was passed providing that all min- 
isters imprisoned by the Governor "should be entitled to their 
pay in interim, unless justly proceeded against." 

But if there were bad Governors there were elements even 
worse among their subjects. Even as early as Governor 
Butler's term a resolution was passed protesting against: 

"the over-aged, diseased and impotent persons who are being sent over 
to us, and so are to rest and remain here as drones and horse-leaches, 
living upon the sweat and blood of other men. No greater canker can 
there be to a newly settled plantation than the stuffing it with idle and 
unprofitable persons, whose belliesi for the most part are extraordinarily 
craving and their mouths ravenous." 

The stormy years that closed the reign of Charles I, his 
execution, the period of the Commonwealth, and the re.tora- 
tion of Monarchy under Charles II, are reflected in the local 
history of the Islands. There were many clashes between the 
civil authority and the Church, and the colony for a long time 
was in open rebellion against the authority of the Common- 
wealth. This attitude, shared by other colonies in the Western 
Hemisphere, led to the passage, by the Long Parliament, of 
an Act dated Oct. 3, 1650, prohibiting trade and commerce 
between these colonies and the Mother Country. But it was 
not until Feb., 1652, that the news that a war vessel had been 
sent out against them, decided the Bermudians to give allegiance 
to the Commonwealth. 

Under the influence of Cromwell, church matters took on 
an increased importance in Bermuda as elsewhere ; and Sab- 
bath-breaking, intoxication and witchcraft were punished with 
puritanical rigor. The old records are full of convictions for 
such minor offences as the following : "William Pollard, gentle- 
man, for that he doth not forbear to use himself unreverently 



HXSTORY OF BERMUDA xxix 

in church"; certain church wardens "for not providing Com- 
munion wine" ; a married couple "for not living together ac- 
cording to the ordinance of Gk)d" ; and numerous others "for 
playing unlawful gaimes." The usual penalty for such offences 
was 30 lashes at the church door. 

"In 1662 we read that the colonists meant to observe the Sabbath 
indeed, for one. Wotton was found ftshing at the Flatts on a Sunday, 
and was ciondemned to 39 lashes at the church door, after service. This, 
however, was commuted into being placed in the stocks in Paget on 
'a lecture day,' the lecture doubtless adding to the poor man's misery." — 
Governor WUlcocks. 

For witchcraft there were altogether 20 persecutions, and five of the 
accused were found guilty and were executed, the most famous case 
being that of a negro woman, Sally Bassett, who was burned at Paget. 

In 1679 the growing dissatisfaction of the Bermudians 
with the government by the London Company, came to a head, 
and a petition was forwarded to the King asking for annul- 
ment of the Company's charter. The petition set forth that 
although the Company owned less than 5 per cent of the 
land, they continued to levy unreasonable and excessive taxes ; 
and it urged that since the inhabitants now owned most of 
the Islands they should be allowed to govern themselves. 
Afted a lengthy hearing at Whitehall, an opinion was handed 
down by the Attorney General to the effect that while, under 
the charter the civil power was vested in the Company, with 
the right to defend themselves against invasions and insurrec- 
tions and to proclaim martial law, there was nothing in the 
charter "to exclude His Majesty from ordering or disposing 
of the Militia of that Island for the safety thereof, or from 
constituting a Governor or Lieutenant in order thereto." Ac- 
cordingly, after a long struggle, a judgment against the Ber- 
muda Company was entered in Nov., 1684. Colonel Coney, 
the last Governor appointed bv the Company, was reappointed 
by the Crown in 1685 ; but general dissatisfaction of his 
administration led to his being replaced by Sir Robert Robin- 
son April 12, 1687. 

For a while there was harmony between the Governor 
and the Assembly, and the affairs of the colony improved. 
But in 1691 Robinson was replaced by one Isaac Richier, who 
has been defined as "another celebrated freebooter, a pirate 
at sea and a brigand on land." 

"Richier appears to have been a fairly good rogue from the reoords 
available. He had, however, to deal with a strong man, Samuel Trott, 
collector of customs. > Richier, after apparently robbing every branch of 
the public revenues, was got rid of, but unfortunately escaped punish- 
ment." — Governor WUlcocks. 

Abqut this time a brisk trade in salt was established, 
the salt being conveyed in Bermudian vessels from the 



XXX RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Bahamas and Tortugas, and more especially from Turks Island, 
which was colonized for the purpose of collecting- the salt. 
Most of the trade was with New York, although shipments of 
salt were made to all parts of the Atlantic Coast. One of the 
old storehouses, where the salt awaited transshipment, is still 
standing on Coney Island. During the height of this trade 
the annual output averaged 130,000 bushels, and employed ap- 
proximately 80 vessels and 1000 men. The vessels were Ber- 
muda-built, of native cedar; for after the establishment of 
local self-government, ship building, which had been discour- 
aged by the London Company, became a flourishing industry. 
Toward the close of the i8th century even sloops-of-war were 
built for the government. 

Other industries that were successively tried during the 
i8th century, included a brisk but short-lived trade in oranges, 
and some experiments in producing sugar, which was soon 
abandoned as making serious inroads on the scanty supply of 
fuel. For a time, also, the Bermudians interested themselves 
in the fisheries of Newfoundland, but the venture proved 
unprofitable. 

In 1775, at the outbreak of the American Revolution, Ber- 
muda being forlbidden to trade with the disloyal colonies, 
suffered serious want, being cut ofif from the main supply of 
provisiions. This fact, together with the many ties of close 
family relationship between B'ermuda and the American col- 
onies, helps to explain the manifest sympathy with which a 
a large majority of the Bermudians regarded the struggle for 
Independence, culminating in valuable and timely aid. Two 
weeks after the Battle of Bunker Hill, when Washington took 
formal command of the American army, his first letter to the 
President of the Continental Congress, laid special stress upon 
the dearth of ammunition and powder : "We are so exceed- 
ingly destitute that our artillery will be of little use, without 
a supply both large and seasonable. What we have must be 
reserved for the small arms, and that well managed with the 
utmost frugality." A month later, however, in a letter to 
Governor Cooke of Rhode Island, Washington mentions, among 
other sources of powder, one proposition, "which has some 
weight with me, as well as the general officers to whom I have 
proposed it," and he goes on to say: 

"A Mr. Harris has lately come from Bermuda, where there is a very 
considerable magazine of powder in a remote part of the Island; and 
the inhabitants are. well disposed not only to O'ur cause) in general, but 
to assist in this enterprise in particular. We understand there are two 
armed vessels in your provinde, commanded by men of known activity 
and spirit; one of which, it is proposed to despatch on this errand, 
with such assistance as may be requisite. ... I am vei-y sensible that 



HISTORY OF BERMUDA xxxi 

at first view the project may appear hazardoiis; but we are in a situa- 
'■- which requires us to run all risks." 



tion 



The plan having been approved by the Governor and 
Committee of Rhode Island, Washington sent an appeal, dated 
Sept. 6, 1775, addressed "To the Inhabitants of the Island 
of Bermuda," beginning with a preamble which reads in part 
as follows : 

"In the great conflict, which agitates this continent, I cannot doubt 
but the assertors of freedomi and the rights' of the Constitution are pos- 
sessed of your most favorable regards and wishes for success. . . . 
You need not| be informed, that thei violence' and rapacity of a tyrranic 
ministry have forced the citizens ofi America, your brother colonist, into 
arms. We equally detest and lament the prevalence of those counsels, 
which have led to, the effusion of so much human blood, and left us no 
alternative but a civil war or a base submission. . . . 

"Under these circumstances, and with these sentiments, we have 
turned our eyes to you. Gentlemen, for relief. We are informed that 
there is a very large magazine in your island under a very feeble guard. 
We would not wish to involve you in an oiiposition, in Vv'hich, from 
your situation, we should be unable to support you . . . but if your 
favor and friendshiji to North America and its liberties have not been 
misrepresented, I persuade myself you may, consistently with your own 
safety, promote and further this sclienie, so as to g^ve, it the fairest 
prospect of success." 

The vessel despatched from Providence, R. I., tmder one 
Captain Whipple, in accordance with these plans, had scarcely 
sailed when the news was published that 100 barrels of powder 
had arrived from Bermuda on a vessel sent out from Philadel- 
phia under command of Captain Ord. According to family 
tradition, Judge St. George Tucker, the famous jurist, who. 
although a Bermudian by birth, had long identified himself 
with the colon}^ of Virginia, and was as eager for liberty as any 
of his associates, was the prime mover in the powder conspiracy. 
He had returned to Bermuda in June, 1775, and while there 
had abundant opportunity to arrange for the delivery of the 
powder to Captain Ord. Professor Verrill, however, who has 
made a careful study of the whole episode, says emphatically : 

"That the actual work of removing the jiowder was dene entirely 
by the Americans under Captain Ord, scarcely admits of a doubt. It 
is a matter of history thati the inhabitants of Bermuda were largely in 
full sympathy with the American colonists at that time; but owing to 
their small numbers and isolated position tliej^ were helpless. Open 
revolt would have been suicidal for them. 

The powder thus secured largely aided in the first great 
A'ictory gained by Washington, resulting in the evacuation 
of Boston by the British army. The obligation was repaid, 
as official records show, by the shipment of several ship loads 
of provisions to Bermuda by order of Congress, one, perhaps 
the first, sent on Nov. 22, 177S ; and others on June 5, 1776; 
May 18, 1779; 'i"(l Aug. 30, 1780. 



xxxii RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Despite the unbounded indignation of the then Governor, 
George James B'ruere, and his strenuous efforts to discover the 
identity of those concerned in the powder raid, it remained a 
mystery. Officialh', Bermuda was staunchly loyal to the Crown, 
and numerous commissions were granted to Bermudian vessels 
for cruising against the commerce of "the American colonies 
in rebellion," the first of these being the Hammond of lOO tons, 
commanded by Capt. Bridger Goodrich, to whom an armorial 
tablet was later placed in St. Peter's Church, St. George's. 

Governor Bruere died in 17801, and two years later Lieut. 
Gov. George Bruere was replaced, after a stormy and acrimo- 
nious rule, by Gov. William Browne, a native of Salem, Mass., 
who before the Revolution held 'high offices, being Colonel on 
the Essex Regiment, Judge of the Supreme Court Mandamus 
Counselor. So highly was he esteemed that the "Committee 
of Safety" offered him the Governorship of Massachusetts as 
an inducement to remain and join the Sons of Liberty. But 
he remained loyal to the Crown even at the cost of his great 
landed estate, comprising 14 valuable farms, all of which were 
confiscated. He sought refuge in Halifax, and from there 
reached England where he was appointed Governor of Bermuda 
in payment of his great sacrifices. Under his judicious man- 
agement the colony prospered. He put order into the financial 
affairs of the Islands, gave business a fresh impetus and estab- 
lished harmony between the various branches of the govern- 
ment. In 1788 he left for England sincerely regretted, and 
was succeeded by Henry Hamilton under whom the new capital 
of Hamilton was built. 

On Jan. i, 1815, the seat of government was removed from 
St. George's to Hamilton, and a year later the residence of the 
Admiral was changed from St. George's to Clarence Hill, on 
Spanish Point, in close vicinity to the new town. 

The next important event was the abolition of slavery in 
the Islands, which took place on Sunday Aug. i, 1834, the 
proclamation being read in the Parish churches during morning 
service. The British Act of Parliament authorizing the freeing 
of slaves! throughout the colonies, made provision for an inter- 
val of apprenticeship; but such was the public confidence in 
the orderliness and high average character of the Bermuda 
negroes that it was voted to free them unconditionally without 
the usual interval. At this time there were upwards of 4200 
slaves, for whom the Imperial Government granted as com- 
pensation to the owners an average of a little over £7 per slave. 
It s'hould be borne in mind that the problem faced in Bermuda 
was radically different from that of the southern states in 



HISTORY OF BERMUDA x 

America : instead of large plantations, agricultuire in Bermuda 
usually meant a small vegetable g-arden, easily worked by one 
or two hands. The majority of slaves were either house- 
hold servants or boatmen, to help row or sail their master's 
boat, and catch the fish, always an important staple of diet. 
Few families owned as many as lo slaves ; the average was 
between two and three. 

Sir William Reid (1791-1858). the "Good Governor," 
marks a new era in the internal affairs of the Islands. He 
'found the colored population, recently freed from slavery, 
growing up without education or official aid. He established 
parochial schools throughout the colony, and procured from the 
Legislature annual grants for their support. At this time agri- 
culture was in a very backward state, the exports being- 
limited to arrowroot and onions, the latter being sent only to 
the West Indies. Governor Reid foresaw that Bermuda might 
be made a sort of market garden from which to supply the 
United States with early potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce and other 
vegetables. To this end he undertook to train the people in 
an improved system of cultivation, importing plows and other 
farming implements for their use. He founded the Public 
Library that survives to this day at Hamilton, and in many 
other practical ways developed the resources of the colony, 
and improved the conditions of the people. 

Under Sir Robert Laffan, Governor from 1877 until his 
death in 1882, Bermuda was l^rought into the Postal Union 
and the postal arrangements generally were assimilated with 
the English system. 

During the American Civil War, Bermuda enjoyed a brief 
era of unparalleled prosperity as one of the chief goals of the 
Confederate blockade-runners — for with cotton worth 2/ a 
pound the golden harvests to be reaped brought forth count- 
less adventurers willing to face the big gamble of such com- 
merce. The employes received fabulous wages ; captains, 
$5000 per round trip, averaging from one to four weeks ; pilots 
also $5000 ; and engineers, stokers and seamen in proportion. 
The Harbour of St. George had awakened and showed a 
scene of activity never equalled in the old days when it was 
the seat of government. From the tops of close crowded masts 
only two flags floated conspicuously, the Cross of St. George 
and the Confederate flag — since fear of rebel cruisers had in- 
duced Federal vessels to replace the Stars and Stripes with 
the British colours. On shore the wharf groaned under the 
vast piles of contraband cotton. Ever3rw"here trade was ac- 
tive; the beer and gin shops drove a thriving business; the 



xxxiv RIDER'S BERMUDA 

hotels were taxed to their capacity despite their exhorbitant 
charges. , 

"Such was the aspect of things in the once lethargic, staid old town 
of St. George's during the palmiest days of the blockade . . . since 
every project and every venture looked toward the southern coast, of 
course the inhabitants w-ere intensely 'Secesh.' More than one Ber- 
mudian ran the blockade to fight the battles of the South. The songs 
of 'Dixie' and the 'Bonny Blue Flag' were heard everywhere. Even 
the negroes caught the infection and sang how 'Jeff Davis is a gentle- 
man, Abe Lincoln is a fool.' Confederate papers were received! semi- 
weekly. Confederate flags were chalked upon the walls and gateways. 
Almost every house had some memento of the Confederacy." 

During the South African War, Bermuda served as one of 
the big detention camps for Boer prisoners of war, the British 
Government sending as many as 6000 prisoners to the colony 
who wer6 confined on several of the islands in the Great Sound 
(p. ). At the close of the war nearly all took the oath of 
allegiance, and were given free transport to South Africa. 

Bermuda has on five occasions been visited by members 
of the Royal family: in 1861 by Prince Alfred, Duke of 
Edinburgh, then a midshipman on the St. George; in 1880 by 
Prince Albert Victor of Wales, and Prince George, both mid- 
shipmen on the Bacchante; in 1883 by Princess Louise Mar- 
chioness of Lome, who made a lengthy stay in the springtime, 
for the benefit of her health ; in 1890 by Prince George (now 
King George V.), then in command of H. M. S. Thrush; and 
ilastly, in 1920, by the present Prince of Wales. 

IV. The Natural History of Bermuda 
a. In General 

Owing to its geographic isolation and comparatively recent 
origin (p. ), Bermuda is unique in the scope and relative 
proportions of its various classes of flora and fauna. Among 
vertebrates, for instance, there are practically no indigenous 
mammals, the only species mentioned by naturalists being the 
whale (formerly plentiful in the neighboring waters, but now 
seldom seen) ; an occasional stray bat, arriving in cargoes of 
lumber or blown across from the main land by persistent winds ; 
and several varieties of rats and mice. Reptiles and am- 
phibians are even more conspicuous by their absence, having 
been represented, when the Islands were first discovered, by 
one species of lizard, the Skink, on land, and by an abundance 
of turtles in the waters. Bermuda has no snakes, newts or 
frogs. Even toads are a recent introduction, imported for 
their u"sefulness in gardens, in keeping down the number of 
certain insect pests. 



BIRDS OF BERMUDA xxxv 

Insects also, aside from flies, imosquitoes and other an- 
noying and harmful species that always follow in the wake 
of civilization and agriculture, are not nearly so numerous as 
might be expected on islands in the semi-tropical zone. Butter- 
flies, most conspicuous and brilliant of all insects, are quite 
scarce, and few of them are either large or vivid. The Report 
of the Challenger is able to list a bare two dozen of species, 
some of them very rare. The same writer goes on to say 
generally of the other orders of insects: 

"The scarcity of Hemiptera is astonishing, for besides the Green- 
bug (Rhapliigaster) only a few Cicadas, found on the cedar trees, were 
observed under the stones I always found a few Land-snai\s, several 
species of Blatta, and very often a Gryllus. Flying beetles are rare. 
When returning at night from our excursions we observed no insects 
filling the air, as they do in) Europe, with the exception of some Sphyn- 
gidae ... In the mangrove swamps large dragonflies {Libelhila and 
Agrion) fly about, and a little Cicendela is perpetually flitting from one 
place to another and many other insects can be captured." 

To offset the dearth of these classes and orders, Bermuda 
has a generous variety of birds, both resident and migratory, 
of flowers, plants and trees, indigenous and specially intro- 
duced, and a rich abundance o>f aquatic life ; notably the 
corals, to which the Islands owe their very existence in their 
present form. 

b. Birds of Bermuda 

While there are less than a dozen species of birds which 
may properl}- be called resident, yet if we count the rare and 
accidental visitors as well as those which call regularly during 
the spring or fall migrations, the recorded number is not far 
from 200. Being almost equidistant from Nova Scotia, the 
United States and the West Indies, Bermaida affords a natural 
resting place for many species which find it directly in their 
path, and whose arrival may be expected punctually in October 
or April. But the great majoritv of recorded visitors must 
be attributed to sheer chance, having been blown off the mam- 
land through unfavorable winds. 

"That fresh species will from time to time be added to the 
present list is more than probable: in fact, it is possible that the whole 
avifauna of North America may eventually be recorded as Bermudian. 
When such diminutive flyers as the Ruby-throated Humming-bird and 
the Blue Yellowbacked Warbler can find their way across six hundred 
miles of water in safety where is the line to be drawn?" — Lieut. Savile 
G. Reid, R.N. 

It follows that the great majority of birds which science 
includes in Bermudian fauna have scant interest for the 
traveler at large, who has small likelihood of ever catching a 
glimpse of them. Accordingly, the present list is mainly con- 
fined to the few true residents and such seasonal visitors as 



xxxvi RIDER'S BERMUDA 

may probably be encountered in due time at their respective 
haunts. 

Cat Bird, Minus caroUncnsis. Resident and abundant; locally 
called "Blackbird." Its harsh, mewing cry is heard throughout the 
year, relieved in the spring by "a weak but commendable roundalay. 
After a shower of rain in May or June the marshes appear literally 
alive with) these sprightly birds, and a most agreeable concert takes 
place among the males, prolonged till dusk, should the weather con- 
tinue fine." (Sat'ile G. Reid). 

Eastern Blue Bird, Sialia sialis. "The flower of the limited flock 
of Bermuda residents. . . . The male bird in spring, when the sun's 
rays illumine his dazzling blue plumage, flashes like a ray of azure 
light and seems actually to blaze with intense color." (Reid). Although 
so much the smaller, this bird sometimes drives thei Red Bird from it- 
nest, even after the eggs are laid,, and appropriates it for its own. 

White-eyed Vireo, Vireo noveboracensis. One of the commonest 
resident birds, locally called "Chick-of-the-village," from its note. Its 
cry, however, is very variable, and one partictilar variation is "ginger- 
beer-quick," appropriately suggestive in a thirsty climate. 

European Sparrow, Passer domesticvis. Introduced from New York 
in 1874, to war upon harmful insects. Their quarrelsome habits soon 
caused serious, but luckily unfounded fears, that they might drive 6ut 
their more desirable kindred. 

Cardinal Red Bird, Cardinalis virginiamis. An abundant resident 
and formerly in great esteem ag a ciage-bird, until protected by stringent 
laws. "To see a fine old paterfamilias in all the glory of his rich ver- 
milioini garments, tail and crest in air is a great treat." (Reid). 

American Crow, Corviis ainericanns. One of the few birds men- 
tioned in Smith's "History" as being abundant in 1623. About _ the 
middle of the 19th century they were believed to have become extinct, 
but later became so numeraus, that a bounty of half-a-crown was set on 
their heads. 

Ground Dove. Chamaepclia passerina. Resident and abundant. 
There is a superstition current among Bermudian negroes that when 
this bird utters its sonoroais "coo-oop," surprisingly loud and far- 
reaching for so small a bird, it is scratching up the ground for some- 
body's grave. 

Virginian Partridge or Quail, Ortyx virginiamis. The game-bird of 
Bermuda. Probably originally imported comparatively recently, but 
died out about the middle of last century and was re-introduced in 1858. 

Florida Gallinule, or Moorhen, GaUinula chloropus. Re-ident and 
fairly abundant, breeding in the most inaccessible parts of the marshes. 

The following are the fairly regular seasonal visitors : 

Water Thrush. Seiurns noz-ehoracensis. One of the commonest 
autumnal visitors; Oct. -Nov. Frequents the mangrove swamps. 

Belted Kingfisher, Ceryle Alcyon. Regular visitor, Sept. to April. 
"They affect the same hunting grounds, especially those that remain 
for the winter; and day after day, as one drives past the creeks and 
sheltered bays, one sees the same solemn-looking individual on the 
accustomed rock or cedar-bough, one eye on the fish in the water below, 
and the other on the passers-by." Savile G. Reid. 

Pigeon Hawk, Faico columharius. Frequent visitor in autumn and 
winter months. 

American Golden Plover, Cliaradritis virgin icns. Regular visitor. 
Its arrival in August or September is "the beginning of the shooting 
season in Bermuda, and is eagerly looked for by the British oificer, 
who forgets all the heat and discomfort of the summer in the pleasure 
of once again handling his gun." Reid. 



BIRDS OF BERMUDA xxxvii 

American Snipe, Gallinago Wilsonn. Oct to Jan., also March to 
:\Iay. Occasionally large flights come in and really fair bags are made. 
" Semipalmated Sandpiper, Ereunetes pnsillus. Regular visitor in 
August. 

Yellowshank, Totanus fiavipes. "Most conspi-.-'.ijjs and noisy of 
the August arrivals." Disappears by end of September. 

Great Blue Heron, Ardea herodias. "Many arrive in autumn and. 
a few remain throughout the year." — ./. Mattlicw Jones. 

American Bittern, Botaiirus minor. Regular visitor in autumn 
and occasionally in March. 

Carolina Rail, PorsatM Carolina. Sept. -Nov., also March-ApriL 
A few linger throughout the winter. 

American Coot, Fitlica amcricana. Regular autumn visitor: rare 
in April. 

Dusky Duck, Anas obscura. Usually arrives in small numbers in 
autu7nn, remaining till end of Jan. 

Blue-winged Teal, Querquedula discors. A frequent visitor in 
Oct.-Nov. rare in April. 

Tropic Bird, Phaeton flavirostrls. A familiar and abundant sum- 
mer visitor, Feb. to Oct. The favorite nesting place is the overhang- 
ing cliffs on South Shore and Islands of Castle ^^-rbo^r. 

Dusky Shearwater, Puffintis ohscitrits. Formerly a frequent visitor, 
but is now believed to have ceased to resort here. It was interesting 
chiefly because erroneously identified with extinct "Cahow.'' 

Red-breasted Thrush or Robin, Turdus migratorius. Occasional 
visitor in Oct., also Feb. -March. 

Pine-creeping Warbler, Dendroeca piniis. Occurs in considerable 
numbers in Sept. and March. 

Boh-o-link or Rice Bird, Dolichonyx oryzivorous.' Seldom fails to 
arrive in Sept.-Oct., generally in small flocks. 

Scarlet Tanager, Pyranga rubra. A not infrequent visitor in 
April-May. 

Night Hawk, Chordeiles virginianns. Sometimes very common in 
April, also in Sept. and Oct. Favorite haunt, the marsh below Gov- 
ernment House. 

Osprey, Pandion haliaetus. Often seen in April-May. 

Yellow-bellied Woodpecker, Sphyrapicus zarius. Not very com- 
mon; seen in Nov. -Dec, also in April. Many palmetto trees are bored 
by this bird. 

Long-eared Owl. Otns wilsonianns. Frequent but irregular visitor 
during winter months. Favorite haunt, vicinity of Gibb's Lighthouse. 

Snow Bunting, Plectrophanes nivalis. Fairly constant visitor Dec- 
lan. 

The rare and occasional visitors, owing their presence to 
the freaks of wind and weather, may of course be seen by 
some lucky chance at any point on the Islands. For instance, 
in one single week in Nov. 1917, observers in St. George's re- 
corded great numbers of Killdeer Plover, a flock of Canvas- 
back Ducks, several wild geese, and a small flock of little Egrets 
in full plumage. Naturalists, however, find certain marshes 
and mangrove swamps peculiarly fertile hunting grounds for 
the rarer species ; also the rocky cliffs of the south coast and 
Castle Harbour. Hungry Bay (PI. Ill — ]7), has proibably the 
largest record, including among its occasional visitors : 

Black-and-White Creeper, Minotilta I'aria; Bam Swallow, Hirundo 
horreorum; Baltimore Oriole, Icterus baltimore; Bee Martin, T'^^rannus 



xxxviii RIDER'S BERMUDA 

carolinensis ; Black-billed Cuckoo, Coccysus erytJirophthahnus ; Great 
White Egret, Ardea egretta; Brown Pelican. Pelicanus fuscns. 

Other favorite haunts are Pemibroke Marsh and Devon- 
shire Swamp, the latter especially being a favorite resort of 
the smaller birds, such as Thrushes, Creepers and Warblers, 
including : 

Olive-backed Thrush, Turdtis swainsoni; Brown Creeper, Certliia 
familiaris; Blue Yellow-backed Warbler, Panda aineriaana; Blue-ej^ed 
yellow Warbler, Dendroeca aestiva; Yellow-crowned Warbler, Den- 
droeca coronata; Golden-crowned Thrush, Seiurus aurocapilhts; Cedar 
Bird, Ampelis cedrorum; Indigo Bird, Cyanospiza cyanea. 

c. The Corals of Bermuda 

In the natural history of Bermuda the Corals claim a 
conspicuous place, not only because of the part they have 
played in the geology of the Islands, but because 9f the new 
chapter they afford on the process of natural selection under 
unique conditions. They constitute the most northerly group 
of any reef-building species at any time since remote geologic 
periods ; and probably mark the extreme northern limit at 
which their kind could thrive under existing climatic condi- 
tions. 

"The coral-fauna of the Bermudas must be regarded as a detached 
colony of the more hardy species which have migrated from, the West 
Indies through the agency of northward currents, by which their free- 
swimming larvae have been carried to these Islands. Therefore, the 
particular species established here have been determined both by the 
duration of free-larval stages and by their ability to endure the cooler 
waters of this area."- — -A. E. Verrill. 

According to data gathered by the Challenger Expedition, 
there are 25 distinct species of Bermuda corals, of which 22, 
are Anthfozoan, and 2 are Hydrozoan. The latter, which 
are species of Millepora, are very abundant, and contribute 
largely to the reef formation. 

"While some species, such as the great Brain Coral, appear to prefer 
to grow where the water is lighted up by the sunshine, other species, 
such as Millepora rainosa, and IsophyJlia dipsacea, seem to^ thrive best 
in the shade. One species, Agaricia fragilis,< occurs growing in colonies 
in great abundance in water from a foot to a fathom in depth, inside 
small caverns, and form very thin and fragile plate-like laminae, which 
when bleached are almost the loveliest of corals." — ''Voyage of the 
Challenger." 

The following list follows the classification adopted by 
Professor Verrill: 

1. Maeandra lahyrintlnformis, Brain Coral. "The largest and most 
important of the Bermudian reef corals. It occurs abundantly on the 
inner reefs of Great Sound and Castle Harbour ... It is still 
more abundant on the outer reefs, but does not occur in Harrington 
Sound." 

2. Maeandra cerebrum, Brain Coral. Not ^abundant. [Most 
frequently found on the extreme outer reefs, especially in Ancinity of 
the North Rocks. 



PLANTS OF BERMUDA xxxix 

3. Favia fragiim. Small Star Coral. Common in shallow water, 
and on the reefs; also in tide-pools. 

4. Orbicclla annularis. Star Coral. Found on outer reefs, but is 
not common. 

5. Orbkella cavernosa, Great Star Coral. Rare in Bermuda, and 
probably occurs only on the outermost reefs. 

6. PJesiastraea godei Verr, Small-eyed Star Coral. Has been found 
at North Rock, and on Bailey's; Bay reefs. Rare. 

7. Madracis decactis Verr, Ten-rayed Star Coral. Outer and 
inner reefs; also Harrington Sound. It occurs as a fossil in the raised 
reefs. 

8. Oculina zaricosa, Large Ivory Coral or Tree Coral. The largest 
and finest species of Oculina^ but comparatively rare. All the Oculina 
or Ivory Corals are fairly common, especially in Harrington Sound, 
some species growing at considerable depth. Fishermen occasionally 
hook up living branches from 20-25 fathoms. 

9. Oculina diffusa. Bush Coral. The most abundant species of the 
Ivory corals. 

10. Oculina pallens, Tree Coral. Harrington Sound and Bailey's 
Bay. 

11. Oculina valenciennesi. Common in Bermuda, especially in 
Harrington Sound. 

12. Oculina coronalis. 

13. Mussa annectans. Rose Coral. Occurs in Hamilton Harbour 
and on the reefs. 

14. Mussa (Isopliyllia) dipsacea,^ Rose Coral. Outer and inner 
reefs. Very abundant even in Harrington Sound. 

15. Mussa multiflora. Outer reefs; serpuline atolls; also Hamilton 
Harbour, 

16. Altissa fragilis. Outer and inner reefs, and on shallow fiats. 

17. Agaricia fragilis. Hat Coral) or Shade Coral. The only species 
of Agaricia found in Bermuda. Very common in shallow water; can 
often be gathered by hand in Harrington Sound. 

18. Siderajtraea radians. Abundant in Bermvida; is more hardy 
than most reef corals, and can thrivei in shallow water on the mud fiats 
where most other corals would be smothered. 

19. Siderastraea siderea. Found in same localities as radians, but 
much less common. 

20. Porites polymorpha. Abundant both in shallow water and 
on the reefs. 

21. Porites astreoides. Abundant in shallow water and on reefs. 
Both of these species occur in Harrington Sound. 

22. Millepora alcicornis. Finger Coral or Sea Ginger. Abundant 
both on the reefs and on rocks and ledges near shore. 

d. The Plants and Trees of Bermuda 

The origin of vegetable life on isolated islands such as 
Bermuda is one of the problems that still baffle the botanist. 
The chief agents in the distribution of plant life are the 
winds, the ocean currents and migratory birds, which may 
carry undigested seeds that germinate under favorable condi- 
tions. But the winds could not carry seed to such a distance 
as to reach Bermuda, and few seed could retain vitality 
through such a lengthy ocean drift; and it is plain that the 
seed of many so-called indigenous plants could not have been 
transported by birds. Accordingly, some botanists favor the 



xl 



RIDER'S BERMUDA 



theory that the comparatively few really indigenous plants 
and trees are remnants of vegetable life that have survived 
from remote geologic periods, when Bermuda may have formed 
a part of a vastly larger extent of land. 

The remarkable fertility of Bermuda, and the ease with 
which a great variety of foreign plants and trees ihave adapted 
themselves to local conditions, have resulted in transforming 
the original dull and monotonous vegetation into the vivid 
and exotic garden of to-day. Just what constituted the actual 
indigenous plants found by the pioneer settlers must be mainly 
a matter of guess work, since the early records make scant 
mention of trees and shrubs, and practically none of the 
smaller plants. Through analogy with the vegetation of the 
West India Islands, and the neighboring mainland coast, the 
following list of indigenous plants is given by Mr. H. B. 
Small in 'his "Botany of Bermuda": 



Juniper, Bermuda Cedar (Junip^rus 

Bermudlensis) 
Palmetto Palm {Sabal UmhracuU- 

fera) 
Mulberry (Mor'us Rubra) 
Sea Shore Grape (Cocaloba Uvifera) 
Olive {Olea Eiiropasa) 
Mangrove {Rhisopora Mangle) 
Buttercup (RamU'ticuhiis Parviflorus) 
Stinging Thistle (Argemone Mexi- 
can a) 
Stock (Mathiola Incana) 
Star of the Earth (Senebiera Coro- 

nopus) 
Pepper Grass (Lepidium Virgini- 

cuni) 
Scurvy Grass {Caxile Oequalis) 
Marsh Mallow (AltJm Officinalis) 
Burr Bush {Triumfetta Althceoides) 
St. Andrew's Cross (Ascyrum Hy- 

pericoides) 
Creeping Sore] {Oxalis Violacea) 
Bay Bean (Dolichas Raseits) 
Eugenia (Monticola) 
TButterwood (Conocarpus Prociini- 

bens) 
"Wild Passion Flower (Passi Flora 

Minima) 
Cactus — Turk's Head (Melocactiis 

Communis) 
Prickly Pear {Opuntia Vulgaris) 
Wild Fennel {Fcemcuhivi Vulgare) 



Rhacicallis (RacliicalHs Rupestris) 
Bog Rush_ (K. ^ Monocephala, Veb. 

k. Cruciformis) 
Bedstraw {Galium Hypocarpium) 
Passion Flower (Passiflora Ccerulea) 
Aster (botanical name undefined of 

this variety) 
Fleabane (Erigenon Canadense) 
Dogbush (Baccharis Heterophylla) 
Marigold (Borrichia Arbor escens) 
Scsevola (Plumieri) 
Centaury (Erythrcea Centaurinm) 
Night Shade (Solanum Aculeatissv^ 

mum) 
Cardinal Flower (Salvia Coccinea) 
Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) 
Pigeon Berry (Duranta Plumieri) 
Vervain (Stachytarpa Jamaiceusis) 
Capeweed (Lip'pia Nodiflora) 
Red Sagebrush (Lantaua Crocea) 
Common Sagebrush (L. Odorata) 
Snuff Plant (Buddleja Americana) 
Bindweed (Polygonum Convolvolus) 
Seaside Lavender (Suriana Mari- 

tima) 
Samphire (Salicornia Ambigua) 
Spurge (Euphorbia Buxifolia) 
Bayberry (Myrica Cerifera) 
Spanish Bayonet (Yucca Aloifolia) 
Aloe (Aloe Soccotrina) 
Iris, Bermuda (Sisyrinchinm Ber- 

mudianum) 



In addition to the above there are more than three score 
plants and weeds which are classified as semi-indigenous, hav- 
ing been introduced from time to time through seeds deposited 
by birds or accidentally mixed with other seeds in imported 



PLANTS OF BERMUDA xli 

packets. The.v range from the Red Poppy (Papaver dnbiiim), 
Virginia Creeper {Anipelopsis quinquefolia) and Hibiscus {H. 
mutabilis) to the Nettle (Urtica urens), Chickweed {Stellaria 
media). Red Clover (Trifolium pratense) and Poison Ivy 
(Rhus toxicodendron) . Aside, however, from the ubiquitous 
native juniper or so-called Bermuda cedar, the trees, plants 
and flowers which present-day visitors regard as typically Ber- 
mudian, are mainly species that have been deliberately intro- 
duced, or else are "escapes," i.e., sprung from self-sown 
seed of cultivated plants in private gardens, and gradually 
reverting to a wild state. Among the latter may be mentioned 
the ]\Iorning Glory, Scarlet Geranium, Nasturtium, Evening- 
Primrose, Passion Flower. Verbena, and several species of lily. 

Much longer is the list of trees and plants that have been 
specially introduced, since they include practically all the dis- 
tinctively tropical growth on the Islands, the palms, cacti and 
exotic fruit trees, and the brilliantly flowering hedge rows and 
shade trees arching above the driveways.^ All over the island 
palm trees of many species are to be seen, including the Royal 
Palm (Oreodo.va oleracea). Date Palm (Phoenix doctylifera) , 
Cocoanut Palm (Cocns mncifera), Screw Palm (Pendamus 
Diiiricatus) and Gru-gru Palm (Astrocarium aureum) ; also 
the native Palmetto, groves of w'hich are still to he seen, 
although far less plentiful than in the early days when the 
leaves were used for building cabins and thatching roofs. 
Bags or hampers made from this same palmetto leaf were 
used for shipping onions until about 1870. The fruits suc- 
cessfully raised in Bermuda include : the Orange, Lemon, 
Locjuat (introduced from Malta by Sir William Reid about 
1850), the Pomegranate, Citron, Shaddock, Peaoh and Fig: 
also Avocado or Alligator Pear, first introduced at Mount 
Langton in 1825. Strawberries were first grown in Bermuda 
in 1872. 

The Oleander, to-day the most prominent of all Bermuda 
trees, was introduced about 1790 from Charleston, S. C, and 
in early years was considered a rare exotic, and called the South 
Sea Rose ; but now it is universally used for fencing purposes, 
and as a screen against the ocean wind. The hedges often 
attain a 'height of from 15 to 20 ft. They bloom throughout 
the year, but most abundantly during spring and summer. 
The blossoms are white and many different shades of pink and 
red. The Pride of India (Melia acedaraeJi), also valued for 
the beauty of its blossoms, ^was originally brought from Asia. 
The seeds, either natural or dved, are made into necklaces 
and other souvenirs. Among the other flowering and orna- 



xlii RIDER'S BERMUDA 

mental trees and shrubs should also be noted the Poinsettia, 
also called Christmas Bush, because it blooms at that season; 
the Pigeon B'erry, with drooping bunches of purple blossoms 
and of green and golden berries, the Acacia and the Royal 
Poinciana, >both of the Mimosa family, the former with blos- 
soms like a small white feathery ball, the latter with clusters 
of brilliant red flowers; besides which there are at least four 
species of Hibiscus, including the Scarlet Hibiscus, with vivid 
blossoms and dark green foliage, and the so-called "Change- 
able Rose," whose flowers are white when they first open 
changing through the day to a gradually deepening pink. Among 
the vines that grow in wild profusion are the Honeysuckle, 
the Nasturtium, the Convolvulus or Morning Glory and the 
wild Jasmine. The latter was introduced by Archdeacon Spen- 
cer about 1840, and has become so dense a climber, especially 
in the Walsingham neighborhood, as to make the rocks in many 
places impassable. Lastly, there are just a few trees which! 
with no lure of color to ofifer, have nevertheless numbered 
themselves among the memorable sights of Bermuda. These 
are : the giant Rubber Trees_. the most noted of which is at Par- 
la- Ville, Hamilton; the Fiddle Wood, introduced from the 
West Indies in 1828, the parent tree still flourishing at Payn- 
ter's Vale ; the Mangrove, seen to best advantage in the dense 
swamps at Hungry Bay; and the Calabash Tree at Walsing- 
ham. made famous the world over through the verse of Tom 
Moore (PI. Ill— P4). 

V. The System of Government 

Although since 1687 the Governor has been appointed by 
the Crown, Bermuda is not in a strict sense a Crown Colony, 
like the British West Indies, but a miniature replica of the 
British Government itself. It has an Upper and Lower House: 
namely the Legislative Council, analogous to the House of 
Lords, and the Assembly, corresponding to the House of Com- 
mons. There is also an Executive Council, similar ^n func- 
tions to the British Cabinet, which advises with the Governor 
and heilps to outline his policies. 

The Legislative Council. The Legislative and Executive 
Councils were for a long period composed of the same mem- 
bers appointed by the Crown; but by Letters Patent, dated 
Jan. 19, 1888, the constitution of both Councils has been 
changed. In its old form the Legislative Council dates back 
to 161 6, thus being four years older than the Assernbly. which 
first met Aug. i, 1620. Under the amended constitution, the 
Legislative Council now consists of nine members appointed by 



(SYSTEM OF GOVERNiMENT xtiii 

the Crown, and comprising: the Chief Justice, who is still, as 
formerly. President of the Council; the Colonial Secretary; 
the Receiver General ; and six others. The Governor does not 
sit with the Legislative Council ; but after opening the session 
of Parliament, he withdraws from all legislative deliberation. 
The House of Assembly. This Lov\rer House, 'constituting 
the oldest representative institution in any British Colony, is 
elected every seven years, and consists of 36 members, four 
from each Parish. Messages pass between the Governor and 
the Assembly, and all the routine of Parliamentary practice 
is closely adhered to. The Assembly has always contended for 
popular rights, and has steadily asserted its full privileges. 

"One fact, which stands ont prominently, in the history of these 
Islands, is the sturdy spirit of independence of the people as repre- 
sented bi'^ the House of Assembly. Even in th_-ir darkest hours, they 
never surrendered what they considered their rights, nor yielded to 
injustice. To-day that same spirit prevails. Times have changed, 
manners and customs have changed and although happily today the 
relations between the Representative of the King and the Local Legis- 
lature are generally of the happiest, yet occasionally comes to the 
surface that spirit which seems to say: 'The laws of the Medes, Per- 
sians and Bermudians shall not be altered.' " — Governor Willcocks, Ter- 
centenary Speech. 

Qualifications for Members and Electors. The qualification 
for a member of the Assembly is the possession of freehold 
property rated at £240. Under this rating there are only a 
little over 600 persons qualified as candidates, of whom less 
than 20 per cent are colored. The Electors must be twenty-one 
years of age or upwards, possessing freehold property rated 
at not less than £60. A husband is entitled to be registered 
in respect of his wife's real estate. There are approximately 
1300 qualified voters in Bermuda, of whom only a third are 
colored. Of the separate Parishes Pembroke has the largest 
share — nearly 400; and Smith's the smallest — between 50 and 
60. The proportion of representatives is exceptionally large; 
there being actually one member for about every 36 electors, 
or one for every 600 of the entire population. 

"We must realize, in calling that of Bermuda a popular Govern- 
ment, that it is a Government of latided holders and not of manhood 
electors; that this fact has had a marked effect upon certain conditions 
that now exist in the Island; and that it is retained is one of the 
strongest indications of the deeply conservative^ character of the Bermud 
community. . . . The result of these restrictions on the franchise and 
character of the representatives is that there are now in the Legislative 
Assembly but two colored men." — IViUiam Howard Taft. 

The House sits generally three days a week, from Sept. 
until May, with an adjournment while the Supreme Court is 
in session. Local laws are passed by the two Houses, and 
submitted to the Governor for signature ; but in Bermuda much 



X41V RIDER'S BERMUDA 

extra parliamentary labcr results from the practice of quali- 
fying most of the Acts by a duration clause. 

The Executive Council. LJnuer the revised constitution, 
the Executive Council is now composed of six members, ap- 
pointed by tne Imperial Government for life, and with the 
Governor as President, sits as a privy council for executive 
duties. Its memoers include: the Senior Military Officer, the 
Attorney General, the Colonial Secretar}^, the Receiver Gen- 
eral, and two unofficial members, who by established practice 
were appointed from members of the upper or lower House, 
until 1921, when the first outside appointment was made. 

The Judiciary. Civil and criminal law are administered 
by a Chief Justice appointed by the Crown, and the two as- 
sistant Justices appointed by the Governor. These three con- 
stitute the Judges of the Supreme Court, at Hamilton, which 
holds a Criminal Session and a Civil Session twice yearly, 
known respectively as the regular Criminal or Civil Session 
for Easter Term, and Michaelmas Term. The Criminal 
Sessions commence on the 3rd Monday in May and Oct., 
continuing until the business of the Court has been disposed 
of. The Civil Sessions commence on the 26. Monday after 
close of the Criminal Sessions. The Suprem.e Court has in 
recent years been given a Chancery jurisdiction. The three 
Supreme Judges also sit as Judges of the Court of Bank- 
ruptcy; whilp the Chief Justice is also Judge of the Court 
of Admiralty. 

Justices of the Peace. The members of the Legislative 
Council, the Speaker of the House of Assembly, and the 
Mayors of Hamilton and St. George's are ex-officio Justices 
of the Peace. Other Justices are appointed by the Commis- 
sion of the Peace : three each for St. George's, Pembroke, 
Paget and Hamilton Parishes, and one each for the other 
Parishes, Justices of the Peace have jurisdiction over certain 
minor civil cases ; and appeal may be taken to the Court of 
Genc-al Assize. 

The following are the principal Departments of the Civil 
Government : 

Revenue Department. This Department is under the 
control of the Receiver General, who is appointed by the 
Imperial Government, and conducts the duties connected with 
the public revenue. He is also the Controller of Customs and 
Navigation Laws. The total revenue of the Colony amounts 
to approximately £60,000 annuall}-, and is derived mainly from 
specific duties imposed on spirits, beer, wine and tobacco, and 
from an ad valorum. duty of 10 per cent on other imports. The 



SYSTEM OF GOVER'MMENT xlv 

incidence of revenue amonnts to about £2 annually on each 
inhabitant. There are no excise or export duties. 

Department of Public Health. The General Board of 
Health, appointed under the Act oE 1894, consists of the 
Colonial Secretary (Chairman), the Mayors of Hamilton and 
St. George's, the Senior Medical Officer of the Royal Army 
Aledical Corps, the Fleet Surgeon and two others. In addition 
to its other duties this Board has jurisdiction over the Quar- 
antine Health Officers and Quarantine Station at Nonsuch 
Island. 

Water Supply. Since there is no public water system 
in Bermuda, there is no separate Department of Water-works, 
the water supplies being under the supervision of the Health 
Department. Owing to the porosity of the coral rock under- 
l}ing the whole of Bermuda, there is no fresh water in the 
Islands, the sea water finding its level throughout the Islands, 
and even rising slightly above this level through capillary 
attraction. 

In earlier times the colony was forced to depend partly upon wells, 
both for household needs and for watering aattle and supplying water to 
ships. Such wells were sunk only to high-water level; and since the 
surface rain water, which collected in them, lay on the surface of the 
heavier salt water, mixing only slightly with it, it was fairly drinkable. 
It tended, however, to become more and more brackish in times of 
drought, sometimes produced fever and digestive troubles, both in man 
and cattle; and, while many of the old wells still exist, their use has 
been largely discontinued. In recent years a number ai artesian wells 
have been bored in Hamilton and vicinity, and make an important 
addition to the water supply, since they furnish water of good quality. 
But under the new sanitary regulations no well water can be used for 
drinking, cooking or manufacturing soda or mineral wateers, unless 
duly certified to by the Medical Officer of Health. 

The main water supply throughout Bermuda is obtained 
by the storage of rain in tanks. The roofs of the houses, like 
the walls, are built of the soft native stone, easily cut by hand- 
saws into slabs almost as thin as slate. These roofs are 
periodically whitewashed, usually twice a year, to correct the 
porosity, and keep the surface white and clean. Every dwelling 
is now required by law to be provided with one or more tanks 
for the storage of the rain water; and these tanks must also 
be thoroughly cleaned once a year or oftener. In several parts 
of the Island wide expanses of ground-level surfaces have been 
cleared, leaving a gentle slope of bare, whitewashed surface of 
limestone, for the purpose of collecting the rainfall on a large 
scale. The water thus stored, if occasionally stirred and 
aerated to prevent stagnation, remains pure and sweet for a 
long time. 

Visitors renting a house for the season are advised to satisfy 
themselves that the water tanks have been recently cleaned, and that 



xlvi RIDER'S BERMUDA 

they are properly covered. In 1920, wlien the Furuess S. S. Company 
employed an expert to visit Bermuda tO' study local sanitation and 
the prevalence of flies, m;osquitoes and other insect pests, the report 
disclosed that whereas in Hamilton and vicinity the tanks were in 
fairly good order, elsewhere on the Islands a large proportion of these 
tanks had defective covers. 

Department of Public Works. The Board of Public 
Works, apipointed under the Act of 1898, includes : the Colonial 
Secretary and nine others, one Lor each Parish. The office 
of the Colonial Surve3-or also comes within the jurisdiction 
of this Department. 

Registrar General's Department. In addition to the 
Registrar General this Department comprises six District 
Registrars, one each for Pembroke, St. George's and Sandys, 
while the remaining Parishes are paired as follows : Warwick 
and Southampton, Paget and Devonshire, Smith's and 
Hamilton. 

Board of Agriculture. This Board, appointed under the 
Act of 1875, comprises, the Governor (Chairman) and 12 
others. In addition to its other Functions, this Board has entire 
supervision and management of the Public Gardens, established 
under the Act of 1896; and since 1899 the reports of the 
Superintendent of Public Gardens on the agricultural experi- 
ments conducted there, form an important part of the annual 
reports by the Board. 

Board of Education. This Board is appointed b}^ the 
Governor under the Schools Act of 1907, and consists of the 
Chief Justice (Chairman), and nine other members, one for 
each Parish. The Board furnishes an annual report for the 
information of the Legislature, containing a large amount of 
practical matter as to the working out of the local scheme of 
popular education. 

Within the first 21 days of Jan. and .Titly parents must make returns 
for the previous half year of how the children have been provided 
for in the matter of education. School age means over 7 and under 13 
years of age. The school rate is 10/ for every child, and is payable 
on June 30 and Dec. 30. The Bible is a daily dlass book in every 
school: but no child can be excluded from school on account of his 
religious denomination. 

VI. Bermudian Industry and Agriculture 

Owing to its lack of natural resources the foreign com- 
merce of Bermuda has throughout the greater part of her 
history been heavily handicapped. N-^vcrtheless, she was for 
a long period extensively engaged in West India trade (not- 
ably in salt from Turks Island), and carried on large trans- 
actions with the British provinces and the United States in 
vessels built of native cedar. In early colonial days, when 



BERMUDIAN INDUSTRY xlvii 

sperm whales were plentiful in Bermudian waters, the ex- 
traction of sperm oil was for a time a profitable industry. 
Promising experiments were at one time made in raising 
sugar-cane, but were abandoned because the process of refin- 
ing the sugar threatened the scanty supply of fire-wood. Later 
trading ventures were undertaken for participation in cod- 
fishing off the Newfoundland banks, but these proved un- 
profitable. 

Prior to the advent of Governor Reid (1839-46), the 
possibilities of agriculture as a factor in export trade had 
'been neglected. It was he who first drew attention to the 
potential value of Bermuda's geographic position as a winter 
market-garden for the United States, and encouraged the 
planting of vegetables for northern markets during the months 
when such staples as potatoes, onions and tomatoes could not 
be raised in those latitudes. The prompt results achieved 
by Governor IReid's introduction of modern implements and 
modern methods, were so satisfactory that Bermuda's agri- 
cultural produce rapidly grew to large dimensions. A detailed 
report of exports of the staple productions of Bermuda, cov- 
ering 39 years, shows that in 1871 the total value of the annual 
crop had risen to £46,906; in 1882 to £106,137 ; and in 1890 
touched a maximum of £120,374; since then it has ^fluctuated 
(between £60,000 and £90,000. Throughout this period onions 
have remained the leading staple, the maximum value reached 
in any one year being £84,548 (1897), and the lowest £20,275 
(1875). Potatoes are second, with a maximum value of £36,560 
(1882), almost equalled in 1909 by £35436; and a maximum 
of £10,958 (1871), tomatoes stood third down to the early 
90's, with a maximum in 1871 of £13,718, declining steadily 
to £6600 in 1881, and to £814 in 1891, after which date this 
staple became negligible, dwindling to an export of only 19 
boxes in 1904, valued at £3. Arrowroot, one of the oldest 
established Bermuda industries, fluctuates, roughly speaking, 
between £1500 and £2500 in good years, and between £300 to 
£1000 in bad years. 

The lily <bulb industry is of more recent development, 
and is largely due to the efforts of the late Gen. Russell 
Hastings, of Soncy, Pembroke Parish, who was admittedly 
the leading spirit in introducing to the public notice the now- 
famous varieties. Lilium Longiflorium and Lilium Harrisii. 
One of the historic specimen of the Lilium Longiflortim, raised 
(by the late Harley Trott, exhibited one hundred and forty- 
five flowers, and was shown puhlicly in New York City at 
the 'St. Nicholas Hotel in May, 1883. In recent years the 



xlviii RIDER'S BERMUDA 

lily bulb industry has declined, and it has been recognized 
that it has been too eagerly pushed and prices depressed from 
a desire to meet export demands, with the result of a deterior- 
ation in size and quality. Bulb growers have tended more and 
more to exclusive cultivation of the Lilium Harrisii, discard- 
ing all hybrids and L. Longifloriim bulbs, since mixed stock 
has been found to be practically unsalable, American florists 
finding that such stock can be obtained much cheaper from 
Japan. 

Quite recently increasing attention is being given to 
green vegetables, which are steadily taking a larger place in 
the table of annual exports. A general view of the present 
situation as to Bermudian products is well summed up by the 
following brief statement contained in a pamphlet issued 
by the Bermuda Chamber of Commerce in the summer of 
192 1 : 

"Bermuda's climate permits the growth of a large variety of agri- 
cultural products. Peaches and oranges may be seen flowering at the 
same time. The Chinese banana produces fruit of exceptional flavor 
all the year roimd, and from January to June strawberries are in 
season. Soil and climatic conditions are peculiarly congenial for the 
growth of potatoes, onions, celery, lettuce, beets and carrots. Two 
crops of potatoes: are obtained each, year. Triumph, potatoes are planted 
in August, September and October; Garnets in January and 
P'ebruary. The early portion of the latter crop reaiohes the 
American market towards the end of March, bringing high prices, 
which reach $10 and even 15 a barrel. Bermuda onions are famous 
for their quality and mild flavor, and are much superior to any 
other onion. The green vegetable industry is developing rapidly, and 
Bermuda ships to New York, celery, lettuce, parsley, carrots, beets, 
lima beans, green peas and Portuguese cabbage of excellent quality. 
Shipments go forward from the end of November to May and June and 
reach the New York market when there is a scarcity of such products." 

VII. Miscellaneous Information for the Prospective 

Visitor to Bermuda 

a. Climate 

Thanks to its geographical position and the protection 
afforded hy the Gulf Stream, Bermuda enjoys one of the most 
equable climates in the world, rivalled only by that of Madeira. 
Although only half as far south from New York as Florida, 
the cold waves from the north which sometimes cause havoc 
to Indian River orange groves, cannot reach these Islands. 
The temperature varies but little, seldom falling below the 
fifties in winter, or rising high in the eighties during summer. 
The average temperature for the year is 70 degrees. 

"Bermuda, therefore, is an ideal summer as well as winter resort; 
for its climate is one of perpetual spring, minus the coild, raw days 
associated with the northern spring. Frost, snow, fog or ice-laden 



MISCELLAiNEOUS INFORMATION xlix 

winds are unknown in Bermuda — they cannot penetrate the barrier of the 
Gulf Stream. Thus when wniter grips the North American continent, 
when gray skies predominate and all vegetatiort is dormant, Bermuda 
rejoices in a balmy atmosphere, brilliant sunshine 'and country ablaze 
^vitli flowers. Her semi-tropical position precludes the possibility of 
abnormal temperatures, sudden or violent changes or a season of 
prolonged rain." — Benimda Chamber of Coiiiiiierce. 

Temperature. Among the earliest official records were the 
tables compiled by Sir J. H. Lefro}- while Governor of Ber- 
muda (1871-77). showing the average temperature for the year 
to be 70.9 degrees. Later a record kept for the United States 
Weather Bureau by Gen. Russell Hastings, shows an average 
for the winter months of 1888-90 ranging between 60 and 69 
degrees. Since 1890 the British Government has kept official 
records in an observatory established at Prospect Hill, where 
the temperature is taken three times daily at 8.41 A. M. and 
3 and 8.41 P. M. The average mean temperature over a 
series of years has been found to be: Spring, 67.1°; Summer, 
79.5°; Autumn, 73.4°; Winter, 63.2°; Annual, 70.8°. The 
highest monthly average during the period of these observa- 
tions was 83.8°, for August (3 P. M.) ; the lowest monthly 
mean was 60.1° for February (8.41 P.M.). The absolute 
maximum temperature on any day was in August, 90.9°. The 
absolute minimum was in February, 45.8°. These records, 
taken at an elevation of 151 ft. above sea level, register the 
greatest possible extremes. 

Humidity. Bermuda has a comparatively high barometric 
record throughout the year, the mean relative humidity for 
the separate seasons being: Spring, 80; Summer, 82; Autumn, 
80; Winter, 78. The lowest mean for any month is for Jan- 
uary, 76; and the highest is July, 83. In spite of this large 
proportion of moisture in the air, those who know the Ber- 
mudian climate best claim that it is only in winter, when the 
temperature is sufficiently low to make the air feel chilly, that 
there can be any question of unpleasant dampness. For the 
greater part of the 3'ear the climate may best be compared, 
as regards the effects of salt sea air, to that of our northern 
summer resorts at the seaside. The almost constant breeze 
and the abundance of clear skv and sunshine, for the most 
part amply counterbalance the humidity of the atmosphere. 

Prevailing JVinds. The winds of Bermuda vary quite 
regularly with the seasons, both in direction and in average 
velocity. Through Jan.. Feb. and March the prevailing wind 
is from the northwest, shifting to southwest through April 
and May, and to south in June. Through July and Aug. i*- 
alternates between south and southwest, settling once more 
into south through Sept. and swinging around to northeast 



1 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

for Oct. and Nov., and to north in Dec, completing the cir- 
cuit. Dec. has the highest average velocity: ii mi. per hour. 
The rate drops b}^ fractions to about lo mi. tor March, 7 mi. 
for May and 5 mi. for July. Through Aug. and Sept. there 
are frequent periods of calm, i.e., a Aclocity of less than 3 mi. 
per hour. It should be remembered that southerly winds lose 
their heat as they come north, and approaching the point of 
saturation become moist winds whereas northerly currents 
conversely become drier as they acquire heat. Consequently, 
the southerly winds are by many people found more depressing, 
especially in winter. Any saturated condition, however, is 
very soon relieved by a downfall of rain. 

Fair and Clear Weather. While perfectly clear cloudless 
days are rare in Bermuda, ranging from one day in Nov. or 
Dec, to three days in the summer months the average number 
of_ fair and clear daj^s taken together is remarkably high, 
being 282 out of 365. Taken by seasons, the average is as 
follows : _ Spring, 73 days ; Summer, 77 days ; Autumn, 71 
days; Winter, 61 days. In spite of the comparatively few 
rainy days the average annual rainfall is fairly high — luckily 
so considering the Islands' dependence upon it for their water 
supply. The yearly average is 62.54 in., divided among the 
seasons as follows : Spring, 14.47 in. ; Summer, 14.92 in. ; 
Autumn, 17.07 in. ; Winter, 16.08 in. It is obvious from the 
figures that there is no specially rainy season. Showers come 
up suddenly and without warning, and generally — in thought- 
ful consideration for the comfort of the tourist! — at night; but 
seldom last long ; and even when a heavy downpour occurs 
the rain sinks rapidly into the porous rock, and in an incredibly 
short while the roads are once more dry. 

b. Currency System, Expenses, etc. 

The currency of Bermuda is the same as that of Great 
Britain, being based upon the pound sterling, the par value of 
which is approximately $4.86. The coins normally in use are: 
the half -penny and penny (copper), equal respectively to one 
and two cents ; the threepence, sixpence, shilling, florin or 
two shillings, half-crown or two shillings and sixpence, double- 
florin or four shillings, and crown or five shillings (silver) 
worth respectively 6 cents, 12 cents, 24 cents, 48 cents, 60 cents, 
06 cents and $1.20; and the half-sovereign or ten shillings, and 
sovereign or pound (gold), equal to $2.43 and $4.86. At 
present, however, owing to the depreciation in rate of ex- 
change, the gold coins are not in circulation, and the value 
nf the other currency is from 25 to 30 percent below normal, 



MISCELLANEOUS LXFORMATIOX li 

the price cf the pound sterling varying at present (autumn 
of 1921) between $3.80 and $4. 

Travellers in the past have usually been advised both by 
the printed guides and the tourists agencies to take American 
money with them, in the shape of bank notes or greenbacks, 
preferably of the smaller denominations, $10. or less, rather 
than purchase British pounds in America. It is quite true that 
an American can make a stay of some duration in Bermuda, 
visit all the sights, make what purchases he chooses, and settle 
his hotel bill without once handling an English shilling. 
American bank notes pass current at all the shops, and Ameri- 
can small change is cheerfully accepted by the colored porters 
and drivers. For this accommodation, however, the American 
pays a toll which in the long run makes an appreciable dif- 
ference in his expenditure'^, especially now that the rate of ex- 
change is so heavily in his favor. At the leading hotels and 
shops the daily fluctuations of exchange rates are watched, and 
the visitor can get approximately the same value that he would 
at a bank. But where a bill is rendered and paid in American 
dollars it will be found in the long run that a 25 cent piece 
goes but a little farther than a shilling, which at present [1922I 
is worth only 18 cents. Furthermore, it should 'be remembered 
that bills rendered lin any other than the currency of the Realm 
are illegal, under the old and almost forgotten Currency Act of 
1841. On Jan. 8, 192 1, the Governor revived this Act by an 
official proclamation, giving notice that bills rendered in Ameri- 
can currency, whether by shops or hotels, can hereafter be com- 
pletely ignored by the recipients. 

Commertiiig on this proclamation, the Royal Gazette said editori- 
ally: "It is a great mistake to suppose the pricing of goods and making 
of quotations for services to be rendered, in dollars and cents, is any 
great convenience to the American public, many of whom buy their 
sterling exchange before leaving New York. When they vi?it Ber- 
muda they realize that they are coming to a British Colony, and the 
better class like a change from their own currency to another." 

As a matter of safety, if the traveller is bringing a con- 
siderable amount of money, American Express Checks, or those 
of any other well-known Express companies, ofifer the simplest 
solution, as they can readily be discounted at the local banks, 
the steamship offices, and at most hotels and shops. Letters 
of credit, or certified checks on American banks, which can be 
deposited at a Bermuda bank and drawn upon by check, are 
methods preferred by some travellers ; but for a short visit 
they lack the simplicity and convenience of the Express check 
or the Bank of England note. 



lii RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Historically Bermuda can claim a currency of her own. In the 
early Colonial days, about 1612, special coins of "base metal," two- 
pence, sixpence and twelvepence respectively were struck and sent ovit 
from England, and were known as "hog money," as they had a fat 
hog embossed on one face and a/ ship on the other. They were current 
for only a short period, and are now one of the great numismatic 
rareties, less than a dozen specimens being known to collectors. From 
1793 to 1842 Bermuda had a copper currency, known as the "Ship" 
penny. Since the latter date only English coinage has been known. 
Since the war a limited number of Bermuda bank notes have been 
issvied; but they are seldom met with in ordinary business transactions. 

c. Some General Notes on the Life and Customs of 
Bermuda 

Since a large proportion of visitors to Bermuda are 
Americans who have never travelled outside their own United 
States, it seems well to emphasize for the benefit of this 
class, the fact that these Islands, with the same language and, 
to some extent, the same outward customs, is foreign soil 
with a radically different government, and a fundamentally 
different viewpoint on many essential matters. The Bermudian 
is accustomed to Americans, understands their ways far bet- 
ter than the average Englishman, and in business relations 
has learned to adapt himself to them. But the visiting stranger 
makes a grave mistake if he assumes that the Bermudian is 
luke-warm in his allegiance to the Crown. On the contrary 
these Islanders take an intense pride in two things : First 
in their unique land; and secondly, in their loyalty to the 
British Empire. As scores of writers have agreed with a 
rare unanimity, the Bermudian is a born conservative ; he 
clings to the past, and in some ways is a stauncher supporter 
of British traditions than the modern Englishman himself. 

"It (Bermuda) is England in miniature, England carved on an 
iridescent sea-shell,. England written small, like thatf famous copy of the 
Lord's Prayer on a piece of paper the size of a thrippeny bit. The 
place is strongly fortified, they tell; us, though that seems as preposter- 
ous as it would be to fortify a ppem' or a cob-web or a humming-bird's 
nest. Church and State are officially represented and all folk, high and 
low, government officials*., soldiers, even the little colored boys, go in 
that grave, responsible English _ fashion about their appointed tasks. A 
slow, unquestioning way of doing every man his duty, has its advan- 
tage as a national custom; here, neither balmy air, nor the beauty of 
waving palms and blossxMuing oleanders seems to have robbed the 
English colonist of his will to obey." — "The English — and Bermuda," 
Scribner's Magazine, vol. 53, p. 656. 

While the visitor's first impression is that Bermuda is a 
pleasantly democratic colony, there are many things in their 
unwritten social code which he finds puzzling. When he reads 
the history 'of the Islands, certain family names occur over and 
over again and imprint themselves on his memory; 'when he 



MISCELLANEOUS LXFORMATION VAl 

walks the streets of Hamilton these same names confront him 
from the business signs oi wholesale houses and retail shops; 
he encounters them again on the tombstones in the churchwards, 
on the memorial windows in the Parish churches and in the 
newspaper reports of speeches in the Assembly. If he buys 
cigars or a pair of gloves, it is quite likely that the stalwart 
and well mannered young man who serves ihim bears one of 
these same old names, and in course of time will take his 
traditional place in the local Legislature. In other words, 
Bermuda has a local aristocracy of its own, — an aristocracy 
which is not, as in England, a leisure class, nor yet one based 
on money alone. It is rather the product of many generations 
,of industry and loyal service, — and in a little colony where all 
.must lahor for the public good, it has never acquired a 
r snobbish attitude toward trade. While comparatively few 
Bermudians have large fortunes from the standpoint of the 
outside world, privation and want are wellnigh unknown ; 
and between the simplicity of the native life and the natural 
resourcefulness of the people themselves, they extract a sur- 
prising amount of pleasure from what some blase outsiders 
may consider limited opportunities. 

"The men and women are really delightful people, and are all 
perfectly natural and unaffected. The men seem to have a natural apti- 
tude for cricket, whilst the Bermudian girls can all dance, swim, play 
lawn-tennis, and sail boats to perfection. Two pretty sisters were 
always the first arrivals at the bi-weekly hotel dances. I found that they lived 
on the far side of Hamilton Harbour, some six miles by road. As 
they could not afford ten dollars twice a week for carriage hire, they put 
on sea-boots aiid oilskins, over their ball gowns, and then paddled them- 
selves across a mile and a half of rough water, shook out their creases 
and touched u.p their hair on. arrival, danced all the evening, and then 
paddled themselves home, whatever the weather. Most Bermudian girls, 
indeed, seem quite amphibious." — Lord Frederic Hamilton, "Here. 
There and Everywliere." 

The Bermudian Negro. The colored people in these Islands 
number approximately 66 per cent of the population. Except- 
ing for the Hmitations of a property franchise, they enjoy a 
degree of equality and a breadth of opportunity which have 
made them, as a class, more prosperous and more contented 
than the negroes in the United States. Their homes of white 
native limestone look as neat and comfortable and as freshly 
whitewashed as those of their former owners; and a ragged, 
ill-kempt, beggarly darkey is an unknown sight. To-day they 
have two or three of their own race representing them in the 
Assembly; and these colored legislators claim their right to 
attend public government functions. In point of fact the 
Bermudian negro of to-day is to a large extent a mixed race. 



liv RIDER'S BERMUDA 

with a strain, often very apparent, of American Indian blood, 
derived from the several (hundred Indian prisoners taken in 
the Pequot Wars, and sent as slaves to Bermuda. Some of 
the best specimens of the type are seen in the native pilots 
who bring in the big steamers, — straight black hair, high cheek 
bones, a long straight nose, and the manner of a tribal chief. 
In point of hospitality the native negro refuses to be out- 
done by the white man. No visitor exploring the High roads 
or byways of the Islands can pass any of the colored people, 
men, women or children, without receiving a friendly, soft 
spoken greeting, — and a failure to return the courtesy would 
hurt their feelings. 

Insect Pests. Bermuda may be a paradise without a ser- 
pent, but it is not wholly without a sting, for it has the usual 
share of annoying insects that infest sub-tropical countries. 
In the winter season, naturally, insect trouble is at a compar- 
atively unnoticed minimum. In summer, houseflies are numer- 
ous, chiefly because of the lack of sanitary care in the stables. 
There is also a stable fly, which the average visitor cannot tell 
from the ordinary variety, and which inflicts an annoying 
bite. Some visitors make their first acquaintance with this 
stable fly on the steamer soon after leaving New York. Mos- 
quitoes are a prevalent nuisance during summer, and visitors 
should satisfy themselves that their windows are well screened, 
or at least that the beds are provided with mosquito nets. An 
expert sent down in 1921 by the Furness Bermuda Co. reported 
that there were four species of mosquitoes in the Islands, two 
of them being of the fresh-water variety, and the other two 
breeding in the salt marshes. The two former breed in the 
rain-Avater tanks (with which every house is required by law 
to be equipped) ; and visitors renting a house should satisfy 
themselves that these tanks are properly covered as required 
by law. 

Bermuda Spiders are numerous, and some of them are 
evil looking creatures, although they do not bear, locally, a 
bad reputation. The ordinary house-spider has a span of 
some three inches, — a sufficiently formidable intruder to give 
some point to Mark Twain's claim that one of them stole 
his boots. Ants make the housewife's problem of protecting 
the sugar supply a real burden; and of cockroaches there are 
three distinct varieties, all large, and one capable of flight. 

Fortunately, however, as was said before, insects are not 
a problem in the winter ; aad, even in summer, are less trouble- 
some than in most tropical countries. 



Rider's 

BERMUDA 

A Guide- Book for Travelers 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 

I. Arrival in Bermuda 

Visitors arriving at Bermuda will find the Government 
formalities comparatively simple and quickly diisposed of. 
The medical examination required by quarantine regulations 
takes p'lace at Murray's anchoTage, where the Quarantine 
Officials come aboard in the tender which takes off the pas- 
sengers debarking for St. George's. All passengers are re- 
quired to file past the examining physician in the forward 
saloon ; and the whole inspection is so simple and rapid that 
many passengers are not even aware what is taking place. 

Customs Examination. After the ship has docked, all 
personal luggage, which should previously be marked alpha- 
betically with labels ifurnished by the steamship company, is 
assemibled according to letters under the big iron sheds on the 
dock, to await inspection of the Customs Officials. Visitors 
with hand luggage only enjoy the advantage of a much quicker 
examination, since all lighter articles are hrought ashore by 
the ship's stewards ; whereas the heavier trunks and boxes 
must wait until all passengers are off the ship, and the native 
colored porters are allowed to go on board. An extra fee, 
however, to the room steward will sometimes hasten the 
landing of a state-room trunk. 

Baggage consisting o'f the wearing apparel and personal 
effects of a passenger, including articles intended for the 
personal or professional use of such passenger, but exclusive 
of goods intended for sale and goods not the property of such 
passenger, are admitted free of duty. In the case, however, 
of spirits, wines, toibaoco, cigars or cigarettes brought by a 
passenger as ipart of his baggage, the exemption is limited to 
one ibottle of spirits, one bottle of wine, one pound of tobacco, 
100 cigars and lOO cigarettes. Typewriters used professionally 
by authors and newspaper men are admitted free. Bicycles 
must under all circumstances pay duty ; and motorcycles or 
motor vehicles of any kind are absolutely prohibited. 



4 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

All the leading hotels have representatives to meet in- 
coming steamers, who will arrange for transiportation of the 
passengers' luggage. In case, however, the visitor has secured 
rooms in any of the smaller private houses, 'he will find no 
trouble in securing the services of a local porter or express- 
man. The average charge within the city limits of Hamilton is 
i/ per trunk and 6d for hand luggage; longer distances in 
proportion. A definite agreement, however, should be made 
in advance. 

II. Hotels and Boarding Houses 
a. General Information 

Visitors to Bermuda will usually find it wise to book 
hotel accommodations in advance, either through one of the 
tourist agencies, or personally by letter or cable. There are 
on the Islands approximately seventy hotels and boarding 
houses, with a collective capacity for somewhat more than 
3000 guests. With several steamship lines now running, how- 
ever, these houses are likely to be filled to capacity during 
the height of the season, or at least to have a scant choice 
of desirable rooms to offer. In summer, however, there is 
no such difficulty, even with some of the larger hotels, such 
as the Princess and the Hamilton, closed; and travelers may 
safely wait until after landing, to look around personally 
before choosing a location. 

Such choice involves a number of factors, including the 
question of price, accessibility, the proposed length of stay, 
and the visitor's individual purpose in coming, whether for 
sightseeing, business, or rest and health. It should be remem- 
bered that practically all the Bermuda hotels are run on the 
"American plan," i. e., a flat weekly rate, including room 
and three meals a day, no reduction being made for absences. 
Consequently, if one stays at any of the houses remote from 
the main centre, either at St. George's on the east or at 
Somerset on the west, not only will a great deal of time be 
wasted in driving back and forth, but a considerable number 
of meals must be paid for twice. 

To simplify the problem of selection it should be noted 
that while the accommodations listed are apparently scattered 
over the entire length and breadth of the Islands, they really 
constitute, with very few exceptions, four well defined groups. 
Considerably more tihan half of them are located either in 
Hamilton, or in the immediate vicinity in Pembroke, within 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 5 

easy walking distance, or in Paget, on the south shore of 
Hamilton Harbour, accessible in fifteen minutes by ferry. 
The other three centres are: the old Capital of St. George's, 
and the villages of The Flatts (PI. Ill — M5) and Somerset, 
(PI. Ill — !C2). To the visitors who take the special eight-day, 
twelve-day or fifteen-day tours, with all the sightseeing 
mapped out in advance and incidental expenses included, the 
question of location becomes of minor importance, beyond the 
fact that Hamilton is preferable in winter because of the 
evening life, and the seashore houses in summer because 
cooler. Visitors seeking an active, out-of-door life, with a 
chance to indulge in their favorite sports, will naturally 
select the houses with good facilities for sea-bathing, or 
with good tennis courts or within easy access of a golf 
course. The general sightseer, who is also a good pedestrian, 
will find that Hamilton offers the big advantage of being 
within easy walking distance of practically all the sights short 
of St. George's and Ireland Island. On the ether hand, geolo- 
gists and other visiting scientists, have always shown a pref- 
erence for Flatts Village and the Harrington Sound neigh- 
borhood, because of its fertile hunting ground; while artists 
and lovers of the picturesque gravitate instinctively to St. 
George's. Probably the most satisfactory plan, if time per- 
mits, is to make the first part of one's stay at Hamilton and 
then spend the last week at St. George's. 

The leading Bermuda hotels approximate average Ameri- 
can standards in accommodations and service. Even at these, 
however, the visitor who expects to find the opulence of 
Atlantic City or Palm Beach, is doomed to disillu- 
sion. As for the less pretentious hotels and boarding houses, 
they are modeled rather after the British rural inn and conti- 
nental pension than the American summer resort hotel. It 
should be borne in mind that the whole hotel problem in Ber- 
muda is handicapped by geographical conditions and lack of 
resources. The bulk of all supplies must be brought from 
America, from the sand to make the mortar with which to 
build the walls to nine-tenths of the food served upon the 
table. Under these conditions, the surprising thing is that ho- 
tel life in Bermuda, while simple and unpretentious, is rela- 
tively so good and wholesome. 

b. Hotels and Boarding Houses in Hamilton 

Hamilton. (PI. I— B3) Church St., facing Queen St. (ca/pacity, 600). 
The largest and oldest of Bermuda hotels, opened in 1863 (p._ 57)- 
400 rooms, 250 with connecting baths. Telephone and electric lights 
throughout. Elevator service. Four concrete tennis courts. Rates: 
per day, $7; per week, $45 up. 



6 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Princess. (PI. I— A4) on Pitt's Bay Road, facing Hamilton Har- 
bour (capacity 400). Telephone and electric lights throughout. 
Elevator service. Concrete and turf tennis courts. Swimming pool 
and bath houses for sea-bathing. Rates: per day, $7. Per week, 
$45 up. (See p. 66). 

American House. (PI. I— B3) S. W. cor. Queen and Church, Sts. 
(capacity -120). Rates: per day, $5.50; weekly rates on application. 

New Windsor. (PI. I— B3) Queen St., E. side, betw. Reid and 
Church Sts. (capacity, 100). Open-air Palm Garden. Rates: per 
day, $4.50; per week, $28. 

Kenwood. (PI. I— C3) Reid St., N. side, betw. Queen and Burnaby 
Sts. (capacity, 100). Rates: per day, $4-So; per '\veek, $28. Europ. 
plan, rooms, $1 up per day. 

Imperial. (PI. I— C3) S. W. cor. Church and Burnaby Sts. (capacity, 
75). Rates: per day, $4-50; per week, $30 and up. 

Point Pleasant (PI. I— B4) Albuoy's Point, Pitt's Bay Road (capac- 
ity 60). Situated directly on water front. Bath houses for sea- 
bathing. Rates: per day, $5.50; per week, $35 up. 

Cedarhuxst. (PI. I— C2) S. E. cor. Cedar Ave. and Dundonald St., 
diagonally opposite Victoria Park (capacity, 50). Rates: per day, $3; 
per week, $21. 

Victoria Lodge, (PI. I— C2) Facing S. W. cor of Victoria Park 
(capacity, 40). Rates: per day, $4.50 up; per week, $25 up. 

Washington House. (PI. I— F4) East Broadway (capacity, 46). 
Rates: per day, $4.50 up; per week, $25 up. 

Brunswick House. (PI. I— D2) Angle St., E. side, betw. Victoria 
and Dundonald Sts. (capacity, 42). Rates: per day, $4.50 up; pei 
week, $25 up. 

Argyle House. (PI. I— C3) S. E. cor. Cedar Ave. and Victoria St. 
(capacity, 30). Rates: per day, $4.50 up; per week, $25 up. 

Sunny Brae. (PI. I— C2) Elliott St., W. of Cedar Ave. (capacity, 16). 
Rates, per day, $3; per week. $20 up. 

Brayton Lodge. (PI. I— C3) S. E. cor. Church and Burnaby Sts. 
(capacity, 12). Rates: per day, on application; per week, $18 Up. 

Sunny Crest, (capacity, 16). Rates: per day, $3; per week, $20 up. 

Marjorie Cottage, (capacity, 20). Rates on application. 

Hillside, (capacity, 30). Rates: per day, $3; per week, on appli- 
cation. 

Fairview. (capacity, 14). Rates: per day, $3; per week, on appli- 
cation. 

Arcad*. (capacity, 25). Rates: per day, $3; per week, on appli- 
cation. 

Corner House, (capacity, 8). Rates: per week, $18 up. 

ColoniaL (PI. I— C3). 

Allenhurst. (PI. I— D4). 

c. In Pembroke 

Eagle's Nest. (PI. Ill— 14) St. John's Road, opposite Mount Langton. 
(capacity, 60). Rates: per day, $5; per week, $30 and up. 

Grasmere-by-the-Sea. (PI. Ill— G4) Fairyland. Situated on N. shore 
of Fairyland Creek (capacity, 50). Rates: per day, $4.50 up; per week, 
$25 up. 

Rockville. (PI. Ill — H5) Serpentine Road (capacity, 12). Rates: per 
day, $3 up; per week, $18. 

Falkirk Villa. (PI. Ill— G3) Spanish Point (capacity, 10). Rates: 
per day, on application; per week, $18. 

Canada Villa, (capacity, 10). Rates: per day. on application; per 
week, $15. 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 7 

d. In Paget 

Hotel Invenirie. (PL III— G6) on 'Hamilton Harbour, just W. of Salt 
Kettle (capacity, including Cottages, 140). Tennis courts, croquet 
lawn and bath houses for sea-bathing. Private ferry to Hamilton. 
Rates: per day, $5.50 up; per week, $35 up. 

South Shore Hotel, (PI. Ill— H7) Elba Beach, Paget West (capacity 
120). Tennis courts, bath houses, surf-bathing. Rates: per day $4.50 
up; per week, $25 up. 

Isle of White. (PI. Ill— H6) On the Isle of White,* Hamilton Har- 
ibour (capacity, 30). Bath houses for sea-bathing. Rates: per day, 
$4.50 up; per week, $25 up. 

Harbour View. (PI. Ill— 16) North Shore Road. Paget West., over- 
looking Hamilton Harbour capacity, 26). Rates: per day, $5.50; per 
week $21. 

. Harmony Hall. (PI. Ill— 17) On Middle Road, opposite St. Paul's 
church (capacity, 22). Rates: per day, $3.50; per week, $21 up. 

Beverly. (PI. Ill— H6) On North Shore Road, E. of Salt Kettle 
(capacity, 20). Rates: per day, $3; per week, $18 up. 

Mount Royal. (PI. Ill— H6) On Middle Road, at Amen Corner 
(capacity, 20). Rates: per day, $3; per week, $18 up. 

Newstead Inn. (capacity, 20). Rates: per day, $4.50; per week, $30. 

Netherlands, (capacity, 30). Rates: per day, on application; per 
week, $35 up. 

* The Isle of White, although the property of the Corporation of 
Hamilton, is included in Paget Parish. 

e. In Warwick 

Belmont. (PI. Ill— G6) On Middle Road, N. side, near Christ Church 
(capacity, 125). Twenty acres of ground, tennis courts, bath houses 
for sea-bathing. Rates: per day, $5.50; per week, $35 up. 

Southcote. Middle Road, near Riddle's' Bay (capacity, 10). Rates: 
per day, on application; per week, $15 up. 

Eastbourne Cottage, (capacity, 8). Rates: per day, $3; per week, 
$21 up. 

Lorraine, (capacity 6). Rates: per day, $3; per week, $18. 

f. In Flatts Village and Neighborhood * 

Frascati, (PI. Ill— M5) Oti S. shore of Flatts Inlet, Hamilton 
Parish (capacity, 125). Bath houses j excellent bathing beach. Rates: 
per day, $5-5o; per week. $35. up. 

Brightside. (PI. Ill— M5) S. W. cor. Flatts Village Crossways. 
Rates, on application. 

Palmetto Grove. (PI. Ill— M5) N.E. cor. Flatts Village Crossways. 
Rates, on application. 

Hill Crest. Flatts Village. Rates, on application. 

Seaward. (PI. Ill— O4) On Bailey's Bay, Hamilton Parish, 
(capacity, 29). Rates: per day, on application; per week, $21 up. 

g. In St. George's and Neighborhood 

St. George. (PI. II— B2) Rose Hill, St. George's (capacity, 150). 
Twelve acres of ground; tennis courts, cricket field and golf links. 
Rates: per day, $5; per week, on application. 

Shore Hills. (PI. Ill— R3) On W. end of St. George's Island, over- 
looking Ferry Reach and Castle Harbour. (capacity, 80). Rates: per 
day, $5; per week, $35 up. 



8 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Somers Inn. (PI. II— D3) Market Square, N. Side, (capacity, 55). 
Rates: per day, $4-5o; per week, $30 up. 

Hillcrest. (PI. II— C2) Cumberland Lane, (capacity, 16). Rates: per 
day, $3; per week, $18 up. 

Block House, (capacity, 10). Rates: per day, $3.50; per week, $21. 

Kingston House, (capacity, 8). Rates: per day, $3.50; per week, 
$21 up. 

Burch Castle, (capacity, 14). Ratesi: per day, on application; per 
week, $18 .up. 

Cosy Tea Room, (capacity, 6). Rates: per day, $3.50; per week, 
$21 up. 

Station View. Rates: per day, on application; per week, $18 up. 

h. In Somerset 

Scaur Lodge. (PI. Ill— B3) At head of The Scaur, near Somerset 
Bridge, (capacity, 25). Rates: per day, $3.50; per week, $18 up. 

Summerside. Near Mangrove Bay. (capacity, 20). Rates: per day, 
$3; per week, $18. 

Fairview. (capacity, 25) Rates: per day, $3.50; per week, $21. 

i. Furnished Rooms 

Where strict economy is essential, the visitor will find 
a decided advantage in taking furnished rooms by the week, 
and either arranging for meals at some nearby hotel or board- 
ing house, or else taking them in whatever part of the Islands 
he chances to be. Unfortunately, there are few such rooms 
available ; and those few are in many cases taken for the 
entire season. In some cases a certain amount of light house- 
keeping is permitted, to the extent of getting breakfast and 
lundieon. In this w^ay it is possible to stay in Hamilton at a 
minimum cost of about $'I2 a week. There are several room- 
ing houses on Reid St. ; and a number of private houses in 
the N.W. part of the city often display signs announcing a 
vacant room. Two houses which may be recommended are : 

Tucker Building. Reid St. N. side, betw. Queen and Burnaby 
Sts. (capacity, 25). Furnished rooms only. Rates: per week, $5 up. 

Reid Hall. (PI. I— C3) Reid St., N. side, betw. Queen and Burnaby 
Sts. (capacity. 25). Furnished rooms only. Rates: per week, $4 up. 
(Closed in Summer.) 

III. Baths, Barber Shops, Etc. 

Owing to the complete dependence of the Islands upon 
the r'ainfall for their water supply, fresh water baths have 
always been regarded in Bermuda as somewhat of a luxury. 
In all the larger hotels, however, there are abundant bathing 
facilities; and hot or cold baths, either of fresh or salt water, 
can be obtained. In most of the hotels there are a number 
of rooms and suites with private bathroom at moderate rates. 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 9 

When a private bath is not engaged an extra charge is often 
made for use of the hotel public batli. For sea bathing 
see 2^, 

Barber Shops are to be found in the leading hotels, also 
on Queen St., Hamilton, and on Market Square, St. George s. 

There is a ladies' hair-dresser and manicurist over the 
Phoenix Drug Store, cor. Queen and Reid Sts., Hamilton. 

IV. Restaurants and Tea Rooms 
a. Hotel Restaurants 

One of the few notable deficiencies in Bermuda is the 
lack of restaurants both of the high-class expensive variety, 
and of the more moderately priced sort. This is the chief 
obstacle encountered by tourists who wish to take lodgings 
and go out for their meals. Practically all the hotel dining- 
rooms, however, are open to the public, as well as to guests 
of the house, and meals at a fixed price may be obtained, 
averaging : for the breakfast 4/ to 6/ ; luncheon and dinner, 
7/6 to 8/6. Some hotels, notably the Hamilton and the 
Princess, have grill rooms where a-la-carte meals are served. 
The attractive out-of-door Palm Garden of the New Windsor 
is both a-la-carte and table-d'hote. Several out-of-town hotels 
especially feature the fresh vegetables and dairy products 
from their own farms— notably, the Shore-Hills Hotel, St. 
George's, Hotel Belmont, Warwick, and Grasmere-by-the- 
Sea, Pembroke. 

b. Tea Rooms 

There are a few tea rooms in Hamilton and St. George's, 
open from 9 A.M. until 5 or 5:30 P.M., excepting on Satur- 
day when they remain open in Hamilton through the eve- 
ning. They are all a-la-carte, and the prices are reasonable: 
roasts, 1/3; vegetables, 6d. ; desserts, 9^.; bread and butter, 
4d. A satisfactory meal can be had for 3 /. 

The Goody Shop, Reid St., S. side, betw. Queen and Burnaby Sts. 
Specialties, home-made cakes and ice-creams. , 

Woman's Work Exchange Tea Room, N. W. cor. Reid and Burnaby 
Sts. Will stay open by arrangement for 6 o'clock supper for a party 
of three or more. . . 

The Willows, Pitt's Bay. Open during the winter season. After- 
noon the dansaiif. 

Cosy Tea Room, St. George's. 

c. Road Houses 

There are just a few public houses throughout the Islands 
corresponding to the American road house, all of which 
feature shore dinners, with native lobster, scallops and special 
Bermuda fish. 



10 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

By the Sea, North Shore Road, twenty minutes from Hamilton. 
Special luncheons and dinners served to parties. Open from Dec 
to May. 

Walsingham House, Harrington Sound Road. Special shore dinners 
and chicken dinners. Meals served in "Tom Moore's Room." Spe- 
cialty, "Bermuda Cocktail." 

Scaur Lodge, The Scaur, Somerset. This was a famous old road 
house for many years before it was enlarged and modernized as a 
hotel. Shore dinners a specialty. 

d. Ice Cream and Soda Water 

The soda water habit is one of the American institutions 
thoroughly naturalized in Bermuda ; and, as in America, there 
are both special ice cream parlors and drug store soda foun- 
tains, where "sodas" and "sundaes" of the usual diversity may 
be found. The following may be recommended : 

The Oasis, Reid St., Seaside, betw. Queen and Burnaby Sts. 
Specialty, pineapple and lime ices. 

The Goody Shop, Reid St., S. side, betw. Queen and Burnaby Sts. 
Ice cream, sundaes and ices. 

The Phoenix Drug Store, S. E. cor. Reid and Burnaby Sts. 

Master's Drug Store, N. E. cor. Reid and Burnaby Sts. 

Robertson's Drug Store, Market Square, St. George's. 

Aerated waters of various flavors, locally known as "Minerals," ai"e 
a ubiquitous institution in Bermuda. Every little rural grocery store 
has them on sale, and the tired bicyclist or pedestrian finds them a 
great boon in this thirsty climate. They usually cost 3d a bottle, and 
5/ for a case of 24 bottles. One novelty is the almost colorless "ginger 
beer," radically different from the ordinary ginger ale. 

V. Inter-Island Travel 

Bermuda's greatest need is some cheaper and quicker 
transit system. There are no railways or tramcar lines ; 
motor vehicles of all kinds are prohibited ; there is no sys- 
tem of public cabs or carriages at an established tariflf. The 
traveler must either walk or choose between the public 
busses, livery stables, bicycles and ferries. 

a. Public Omnibuses. 

The omnibus service from Hamiltom to St. George's and 
to Somerset is an old established institution, dating from about 
1840. The busses are open-sided, with canvas-covered tc;p, 
and seats running lengthwise, holding about 20 persons. Since 
they also carry the local freight and express, which is col- 
lected before the bus starts from the Post Office, . there is 
often scant room for passengers. Crates, boxes and barrels 
piled on and between the seats, are often supplemented with 
bicycles, joints o'f meat, ice-cream freezers, and sometimes a 
coffin. The colored patrons outnumber the white by two or 
three to cne ; and with passengers hanging on the rear step 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION ii 

there is always room for one more. While not a pleasure 
excursion, a trip in a Bermuda bus is one cf the Island's most 
typical experiences. 

Hamilton-St. George's Bus Line. A two-horse bus service 
between Hamilto'n Post Office and Market Square, St. George's, 
via the North Road, through Flatts Village and Bailey's Bay. 

Schedule: Week days, from Hamilton, 9 A. M.; i P. M. (except 
Thursdays), 3 and 5 P. M.; Saturdays also 9 P. M. From St. George's, 
9 A. M.; I and 3 P. M. Saturdays also 5 P. M. On Sundays, from 
Hamilton (Heyl's corner. Front and Queen Sts.), 9 A. M. and 7 P. M. 
From St. George's (Market Square), 9 A. M. and 5 P. M. Distance 
11^ miles, time, 2 hours. Fare, Hamilton to Flatts Village, is.; to 
St. George's, 2s. 6d. 

Hamilton-Somerset Bus Line. A twa-horse bus service 
between Hamilton Post Office and Somerset, via Point Finger 
Road and Middle Road, passing Gibb's Hill Lighthouse, South- 
ampton Bridge and the Scaur. 

Schedule: Week days, from Hamilton, 9 A. M. and 3 P. M. From 
Somerset, 9 A. M. and 3 P. M. Sundays, from Hamilton (Reyl's corner), 
9 A. M. returning at 3 P. M. Distance, 12^ miles. Time, 2 hours. 
Fare 3s, 

b. Carriages; Livery Stables 

Carriage hire in Bermuda, has increased in the past few 
years from 40 to 50 per cent. There are numerous' good 
livery stables throughout the islands, some of the best being 
connected with the leading hotels ; i. e. The Hamilton, 
Princess and American House in Hamilton ; the Inverurie, 
Frascati, etc. Comfortable carriages with competent drivers 
can usually be found standing along Queen St. ; also along 
the North Shore Road, Paget, near the ferry landing. Prices 
for any of the usual excursions are practically uniform 
throughout ithe Islands, and are regularly quoted to visitors 
in American currenc}^ Bargaining is usually futile,, even in 
dull seasons. In any case, terms should be clearly 
agreed upon in advance. It is often advantageous to 
pay in British money, since many drivers still compute a 
dollar at 4s. At the hotels, however, current rate of exchange 
is followed. 

Bermuda carriages are either single, i. e. one horse, with seats for 
three besides the driver; or double, two horses, with seats for five and 
driver. Carriages without a driver are seldom, if ever, obtainable in 
Bermuda. The average current rates from Hamilton are well illustrated 
by the following prices for a single carriage (double carriage approxi- 
mately twice as much): To St. George's, $7; to Gibb's Hill, $5; to 
Somerset, $7; around Harrington Sound, $5; to Tucker's Town. $5. 
One of the most complete scales of prices recently issued is that of the 
Frascati Hotel, which may serve as a general gauge of prices throughout 
the Islands. These are for both single and double carriages from 
Frascati to places named: 



12 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

To Gibb's Hill Light House, $7 and $14; to Prospect Barracks, $3 
and $6; to Devil's Hole, $2 and $4; to St. George's, $6 and $12; to 
Tucker's Town, $3 and $6; to Hamilton, $3 and $6; around Harrington 
Sound, $4 and $7; to Tucker's Town and around Harrington Sound, 
$5 and $10; to Somerset, $8 and $16; to Elba Beach, $5.50 and $11; 
balls, theatres, etc., at night, $6 and $12. 

Hamilton-Elba Beach Bus Line. A two-horse bus service between 
Yankee Store, Queen St., Hamilton and Elba Beach. A comfortable, 
modern, open conveyance, holding about 16 passengers. No express 
or freight carried. 

This bus makes three or four round trips daily, during the after- 
noon and evening, the first trip starting shortly after noon. Fare, 2/. 

c. Bicycles 

To visitors accustomed to bicycling there is no better way 
o£ seeing Bermuda in a comfortable, leisurely and economical 
fashion. The hard, smooth limestone roads make this exercise 
a pleasure in itself ; and the bicycle can go through narrow- 
lanes, and byways that are awkward if not prohibitive for a 
carriage. 

Bicycling has so largely gone out of fashion in America 
that one of the novelties of Bermuda to the visitor when 
first landing, is the prevalence everywhere in the Islands of 
men and women, old and young, mounted on wheels. Scores 
of them arrive in Hamilton in the morning: clerks and shop 
girls on their way to business ; Government officials, bound for 
their offices ; housewives on their way to market. The ferry 
boats do a brisk business transporting wheels with or without 
their owners; and part of the daily load of the express 
busses is from one to half a dozen bicycles strapped to sides 
or roof, being sent back to St. George's by. people who have 
borrowed them for an early trip to Hamilton. 

The Rule of the Road. There are several points 
which the bicyclist in Bermuda must bear in mind. The one 
that miust be most emphatically emphasized is the Rule of the 
Road, which is the same as in England, and the reverse o-f 
the American rule. In meeting vehicles, pedestrians or other 
bicycles you must pass to the left ; in overtaking them you must 
pass to the right. Furthermore, you must yield right of way 
to pedestrians, no matter on which side of the road they are 
walking. Every vehicle, including bicycles, must carry a light 
after sun-down. Those who disregard this rule are liable to 
a fine. 

Notwithstanding their splendid condition many of the Ber- 
muda roads are dangerous for the incautious stranger, because 
of their narrowness, their unexpected curves and sharp corners, 
and their frequent steep little hills. Warning signs have been 
placed for the benefit of bicyclists at all the more dangerous 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 13 

spots. The safe practice is always to ring your bell before 
turning curves or corners and never to coast down any hill 
over which you have not previously pedaled. 

Tourists are advised not to bring their own bicycles with 
them, since bicycles are subject to a custom's duty, which is 
not refunded, no matter how short the visitors stay may be. 
Bicycles may he rented without difficulty in many parts of the 
Islands at reasonable changes. Most of the leading hotels 
which have livery accommodations also rent bicycles ; and 
there are numerous shops in Hamilton, St. George's, and even 
the Flatts, where wheels can be hired, and repairs made. 

Charges. The average charge for rental is now 2/ 
for the first hour; 4/ to 5/ per day; £1 per week; and pro- 
portionate rates for a longer period. The following is a par- 
tial list of bicycle shops : 

Bicycles for Sale or Hire. Thomas J. Wadson & Sons, 7 Front St.; 
Hamilton Cycle Co., Queen St., W. side; Jeifry B. Astwood, 53 Front 
St.; Eureka Cycle Co., S. W. cor. Reid and Burnaby Sts., St. George's; 
St. George Cycle Co., Market Square. 

d. The Forbidden Automobile 

The Motor Gar Act, passed by the Assembly April 13, 
1908, and approved by the Governor, forbids the running or 
even the importation of any kind of motor vehicle in Bermuda, 
including motor bicycles. Under an earlier Act, passed in 
1906, empowering the Govemor-in-Counciil to issue regulations 
controlling the use of automobiles, a limited number of permits 
were issued. Under this Act public automobile service was 
established in Jan., 1908, by Albert Spurling, whose touring 
car, "The Scarlet Runner," made tri-weekly trips between 
Hamilton and St. George's on Tuesdays, Thursdays and 
Saturdays, and Sunday excursions to Prospect and The Flatts. 
Within the next few weeks a series of minor casualties oc- 
curred, for several of which the Scarlet Runner was respon- 
sible ; and several petitions were presented to the Legislature, 
urging the prohibition of the automobile. One of these peti- 
tions, which undoubtedly carried much weight, was presented 
by the American guests of the Princess and Hamilton Hotels, 
and bore 112 signatures, including those of Rear-Admiral 
Upshur, U. S. N. ; Samuel L. Clemens and Woodrow Wilson — 
the last named being responsible for the wording of the peti- 
tion. The preamble ran in part as follows : 

"We, the undersigned, visitors to Bermuda, venture respectfully to 
express the opinion that the admission of automobiles to the Island 
would alter the whole character of the place in a way which would 
seem to us very serious indeed ... The dangei" to be apprehended 
is chiefly from reckless tourists who would care nothing for local opinion 



14 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

or for the convenience and safety of others. This is one of the last 
refuges now left in the world to which one can come to escape such 
persons. It would, in our opinion, be a fatal error to attract to Bermuda 
the extravagant and sporting set who have made so many otlier places 
entirely intolerable to persons of taste and cultivation." 

Two months later the brief career of the automobile in 
Bermuda was ended. There is, however, a growing demand 
for a better and more rapid form of transit than the carriage 
and the antiquated express bus; and it is not unlikely that 
the motor car will come back under strict limitations. In 
1920 a motion to that effect was lost by the narrow margin 
of one vote. In October of that year the Aiitotnobile Associa- 
tion of Bermuda was organized for the avowed purpose of 
active propaganda for the repeal of the prohibitive Act, with 
special emphasis on the urgent need of better freight transport. 

e. Ferry Boat Lines 

The Bermuda Transportation Co., Ltd. (office at No. 10 
Front St., opposite Ferry House), maintains ferry lines: 
I, From Hamilton to Ireland Island and Somerset; 2. From 
Hamilton to Salt Kettle and Darrell's Wharf. The follow- 
ing time tables are subject to revision without notice. 



I. 


Service to Ireland Avenue and Somerset: 


Week-days 










Ireland 


. Cavello 


Mangrove 


Ai 


•rive 


Leave 


Hamilton 


Island 


Bay 


Bay 


Hamilton 


A. M. 


6.00 


6.40 


7-30 






8.15 


" 


9.15 


10.00 




10.45 




11.30 


P.M. 


3-15 


*5-ij 




430 




4.50 


" 


5-45 


7.00 


6.30 






7.40 




Extra Trips, 


, Saturday Only 








A. M. 


11.30 


12.15 








12.50 


P.M. 


9.00 


9.30 
om Ireland 


9-45 
Island. 


. . . 




10.30 


* 


Fridays, 4.45 fr 








Sunday 


Schedule 








A. M. 


9.00 


10.00 


9-35 






10.35 


P. M. 


1. 00 


2.00 


1. 35 






2.35 


" 


5-00 


5.35 


6.00 






6.40 


2. Service to Salt Kettle, Darrell's Wharf and Hodson's: Week-days: 


Leave Salt Kettle 


: 6.30, 6.50, 


8.20 and 8.50 x\. 


M.; 12.35, 


1.05, 


6.05, 


6.35, 


7.30, 8.45, 9-30, 


10.30 and I 


1. 00 P. M. 








Leave Hamilton : 


6.40, 8.00, 


8.30, 9.00, 10.00. 


IT. GO, 12.00 A 


. M.; 


12.30, 


I. 00, 2.00, 3.00, 


4.00, 5.00, 


5.30, 6.00, 6.30, 


7-00, 7.45, 


8.30, 


9.00, 



10.00, and 10.45 P. M. 

Leave Darrell's Wharf: 8.15, 8.45, 9.15, 10.15, and 11. 15 A. M.: 
12.15, 12.45, I-I5, 2.15, 3.13. 4-15, 5-15. 5-45, 6.15, 6.45 and 8.00 P. M. 

Leave Hodson's: 7.35, 8.35, 9-05, 10.05 and 10.50 P. M. 
Extra Saturday Night Service 

Leave Salt Kettle: 9.15, 9.45 and 12.00 P. M. Leave Hamilton: 
9.30, and: 1 1.45 P. M. Leave Hodson's: 9-35, a^^d 11.50. 
Sunday Schedule 

Leave Salt Kettle: 8.30, 9.30, 10.20 and 11.00 A. M.; 12.30, 2.00, 
3:00, 4.00, -5.00, 6.00, 7.00, 8.00, 9-15, 10.30 and 11.00 P. M. 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 15 

Leave Hamilton: 8.40, 9-4o, 10.30, and 11.35 '^- M.; 12.45, ^-30, 3-30, 
4-30. 5.30, 6.45, 7.30, 9.00, 9.45. and 10.45 P. ^I- 
3. St. David's Ferry 
There is also a regular ferry service maintained between St. George's 
(Market Wharf) and St. David's Island. 

Time Table for Week Days 
Leave St. George's: 6.00, 8.00, 10.00, and 11.30 A. M.; 1.30, 3.30, 
5.30 and 7-00 P. M. Saturdays also 8.30 P. ^1. 

Leave Si. David's: 6.30, 8.30, 10.30, and 12.00 A. M.; 2.00, 4.00, 
6.00 and 7.30 P. M. Saturdays also 9.00 P. M. 
Sunday Schedule 
Leave St. George's: 8.00, 10.00, and 12.00 A. M.; 2.00, 4.00 and 
6,00 P. M. 

Leave St. David's: 8.30 and 10.30 A. M.; 12.30, 2.30, 4.30 and 6.30 

f. Aerial Tours of the Bermudas 

Visitors to the Islands now have full opportunity of 
seeing Bermuda from the air. The Bermuda and West 
Atlantic Aviation Co., with headquarters at Hinson's Island, 
and an office in Victoria Block, Queen St., Hamilton, with 
a fleet of Supermarine Flying Boats and Avro Sea-planes, 
have established a series of aerial tours, which are carried 
out daily, weather permitting. Passengers are called for in 
a fast motor launch, and transferred to the flying boat. 

Short Flight. Duration about ten minutes. Rate, $10 per head. 
Passing over Two Rock Passage, across the Great Sound to Gibb's Hill 
Lighthouse and back toward Hamilton. 

Middle Tour. Duration about twenty minutes. Rate, $20 per head. 
Passing over Two Rock Passage to Hog Fish Beacon, thence E. around 
Spanish Point and parallel with North Shore; then S. over Harrington 
Sound to Devil's Hole, and W. along the South Shore to Hungry Bay, 
and back to Hamilton. 

Grand Tour. Duration about thirty minutes. Rate, $35 per head. 
Passing across the Great Sound, and over Somerset, to Sea Gardens off 
Daniel's Head; then back to Hog Fish Beacon, and E. to the Flatts and 
along N. shore of Harrington Sound crossing Castle Harbour parallel 
with the Causeway. After a complete circuit of St. George's the return 
trip is made along the S. shore of Castle Harbour, over Tucker's Town 
to Hungry Bay, and thence back to Hamilton Harbour. 

Passengers taking the Middle and Grand Tours may take cameras, 
subject to the pilot's instructions regarding their use. Flying kit is 
supplied free if required. In addition to regular tours, special trips 
can be arranged, subject to two days' notice. 

VI. Steamship Lines and Offices 

Bermuda can now be reached by direct steamship service : 
From New York, 666 mi., in 48 hours ; from Halifax and 
Nova Scotia, 700 mi., in from 3 to 4 days ; and from England 
in about two weeks. During the late war the service was 
greatly curtailed ; there was but one line from New York, run- 
ning at infrequent intervals, and no direct service from Eng- 



i6 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

land. But in 1920-21 there was a partial return to normal; 
and since Jan., 1922, with two regular lines from New York, 
affording frequent sailings, besides numerous special excur- 
sions, the tourist has found a wider choice and better accom- 
modations than ever before. 

History. The development of Bermuda as a resort for pleasure or 
for health was long held back by its comparative isolation. In 1803, 
the poet, Tom Moore, waited for many weeks in Norfolk, Va., until by 
lucky chance a ship of war bound for the Islands, touched at that port. 
Until almost the middle of the 19th century the mails were brought to 
Bermuda by naval vessels. When at last a West Indian mail steamship 
service was established with Bermuda as its center, the project of the 
Hamilton Hotel was promptly launched; but this venture very nearly 
fell through upon the transfer of these steamers from Bermuda to St. 
Thomas as a centre. The American Civil War caused an inevitable 
delay of further development; but in Jan., 1874, the Quebec Steamship 
Company began a fortnightly service from New York under a subsidy 
of £4000 from the Bermuda Government. This sei'vice, after being 
maintained and developed for nearly half a century, was, in 1920, taken 
over by the Furness-Withy Company. 

For many years a monthly service was maintained between Halifax, 
N. S., Bermuda, Turks' Island and Jamaica by the Cunard Company. 
The contract, which was with the Imperial Government, was allowed to 
lapse in 1886, since the mail service via New York proved to be cheaper 
and more efficient. Bermuda was accordingly deprived of direct com- 
munication with Halifax until 1888, when a new service was begun by 
Pickford & Black, which by 1900 had become a fortnightly service. 

For several years the Elder Dempster Co. have used Bermuda as a 
port of call on outward trips from Bristol, England, to Kingston, Jamaica. 

a. Present-day Service, Rates, etc. 

Furness Bermuda Line. New York officej Furness, 
Withy & Co., Ltd., 34 Whitehall St., New York. Bermuda 
office, 18 Front St., Hamilton. This line maintains a regular 
bi-weekly service during the winter and spring season, from 
Jan. I onward, leaving New York Wednesdays and Saturdays 
at II A. M. from Pier 95 N. R. (foot of W. 55th St.) ; return- 
ing, leave Bermuda Tuesdays and Saturdays, from dock at 
foot of Queen St., Hamilton. Steamers on regular schedule: 
Fort Hamilton, 11,000 tons; Fort Victoria, 14,000 tons. 

Rates. The minimum first-class rate, New York to Bermuda and 
return is: Winter $70; Summer $60; one-way rate, half round trip 
plus $10. Intermediate class, round trip $50. Children under three 
are carried free; between 3 and 12 years of age, at half the minimum 
rate when occupying room with two adults. Since the number of state- 
rooms available at minimum rates is limited, application should be 
made at as early a date as possible. A deposit of $25 per berth js 
required in reserving accommodation, and the full amount must be paid 
10 days before sailing. 

Special Tours of 8, g, 12 or 19 days are offered at a cost respec- 
tively of $91, $96, $111, $146 and up, in summer, and $10 more in 
each case for winter trip (after Dec. i). These rates include steamer 
fare, hotel accommodations (American plan) and sight-seeing trips to 
principal points of interest, including excursion to Sea-Gardens. They 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 17 

are based upon the minimum stateroom charge, and hotel rates of $4.50 
per day. Better accommodations on steamers and at hotels are provided 
at corresponding increase of cost. 

Royal Mail Steam Packet Line. Office, 26 Broadway, 
New York. Bermuda office, 26 Front St., Hamilton. Since 
Jan. I, 1922, this line has maintained weekly sailings between 
New York and Bermuda, leaving Pier 42 N. R. (near Chris- 
topher St.) on Saturdays at 11 A.M.; returning, leave Ber- 
muda on Tuesdays. Steamer on regular schedule : the 
Araguaya, 17,500 tons. 

Rates. Minimum charge for round trip, $70. Children under 3 
j^ears, free; from 3 to 12 years, half fare. A deposit of 25 per cent 
of passage money, with a minimum of $20 per berth, is required to 
reserve accommodation. Whole amount of passage must be paid one 
week before sailing. 

Special Tours. 5-day, 12-day and 19-day tours are offered at $76, 
$129 and $17^ respectively, and include accommodation at any of the 
larger hotels excepting the Hamilton and Princess; also excursions to 
the chief points of interest, including the Sea-Gardens. 

White Star Line. Office, No. 9 Broadway. Special 
West Indies cruises, including Bermuda, beginning in Jan.. 
1922. Duration of cruise approximately 28 days. Steamer, 
Megantic, 20,000 tons. 

Rates. $300 and upwards. 

b. Miscellaneous Information for Passengers 

Government Formalities. No passport nor income tax 
receipt is required of passengers bound for Bermuda. Every 
passenger, however, is required to fill out a declaration of 
citizenship which he must deliver to the Government official 
on the dock before boarding steamer. A U. S. War Tax, 
payable by the passenger, is imposed on all passage tickets 
purchased in the United States as follows : On each fare over 
$10, but not exceeding $30, $1 ; on each fare over $30, but not 
exceeding $60, $3; on each fare over $60, $5. Stamps to the 
amount of the tax must be affixed to the outward portion of 
the ticket, and cancelled. No tax stamp is required on tickets 
issued in Canada. A Bermuda Government stamp tax of five 
shillings is payable in Bermuda by every passenger, first or 
intermediate class, leaving the Island. 

Deck chairs and travelling rugs can be hired from the Deck Steward 
at a charge of $i each, to or from Bermuda: the former should be 
secured at the earliest possible moment, as the more desirable and 
sheltered positions are likely to be taken up promptly. On some of 
the vessels it is possible to engage chairs in advance for the return trip. 

Seats in the dining saloon are assigned by the Chief Steward soon 
after leaving the dock; and family parties desiring to sit together, or pas- 
sengers with a preference for first or second sittings, are advised to make 
early application. 

All heavy luggage, including cabin trunks, should be sent to the 
pier one full day before sailing, where it will be held at owner's 



i8 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

risk. All luggage should have the name of passenger, steamer and 
destination plainly marked on tags and labels provided by the compa- 
nies. All trunks, bags and satchels desired in the cabin should be so 
labeled. Steamer trunks less than 14 inches in height, can be placed 
under the cabin berths. Bicycles, baby carriages and go-carts are 
carried free for first class passengers, at the owner's risk. 

Where return accommodation from Bermuda has been secured in 
advance the passenger should promptly visit the Bermuda office, if 
possible, on the day of arrival to confirm the booking and avoid 
possible misunderstandings. 

Dogs may be carried at a charge of $5 round trip. They should 
be accompanied with a Health Department certificate, as they are 
subject to Government inspection in Bermuda, and quarantined if 
necessary. 

3. Tourist and Express Agencies 

Thomas Cook & Son has a branch in Hamilton on Queen 
St., under the GDlonial Hotel. 

The American Express Co. has an agency at Gibbon Bros., 
Queen St., just below the American House. 

VII. Post and Telegraph Offices. Telephones, 

Express Companies 

a. Postal Facilities 

The postal system of Bermuda is divided into Postal Dis- 
tricts comprising: the Main Post Office at Hamilton; three 
Branch Post Offices at St. George's, Ireland Island and Man- 
grove Bay; and 14 Sub-Post Offices at Somerset Bridge, 
Southampton West, Southampton East, Warv^ick West, War- 
wick East, Paget West, Paget East, Devonshire, Flatts, Crawl, 
Bailey's Bay, Harrington Sound, St. George's West and St. 
David's. There are two deliveries daily from all offices and 
sub-stations, except St. David's Island, which has only one, at 
noon. The deliveries from Hamilton, St. George's and Man- 
grove Bay commence at 11 A. M. and 5 P. M. (winter), 6 
P. M. (summer) ; from Ireland Island and the sub-stations 
shortly after arrival of mails from Hamilton. 

Inland Mails. The Hamilton-St. George's and Hamilton- 
Somerset mail-carriages leave their respective Post Offices at 
9 A. M. and 3 P. M. (winter), 4 P. M. (summer), arriving 
at 10.30 A. M. and 4.30 (or 5.30) P. M. The Hamilton-Ireland 
Island mail (by steamboat) leaves Hamilton at 9 A. M. and 3 
P. M. (winter), 3.30 P. M. (summer) ; and leaves Ireland 
Island at 12 noon, and 4 P. M. (winter), 5 P. M. (summer), 
arriving one hour later. 

Foreign Mails. Mails for the United Kingdom, United 
States, Canada, Newfoundland, etc., via New York are car- 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 19 

ried by the Furness-Bermuda Line steamers operated by 
Furness-Withy & Co., Ltd., twice a week in winter, and about 
once a week in summer. Direct mails to Halifax, N. S., St. 
Johns, N. B., and to the West Indies are forwarded at frequent 
intervals by steamships of the Royal Mail Steamship 
Packet Co. 

All outgoing foreign mail matter must be posted before the 
closing of the regular mails the day before the sailing of the 
steamer. A supplementary mail closes at the Post Office, 
Hamilton, at 8 A. M. on the day of sailing. All mail matter 
for this mail must be pre-paid at double the ordinary rate. 

Rates of Postage. A. Inland : For letters, per ounce, i 
penny; post cards, i half -penny; local newspapers, per two 
ounces, i farthing. 

B. Foreign: To the United Kingdom, Canada, and 
nearly all British Colonies and possessions and Egypt : for 
letters, per ounce, i penny ; for single postcards, i penny ; for 
reply postcards, 2 pence ; for newspapers, and other printed 
matter, per 2 ounces, i half -penny. For all other countries, 
including the United States : for letters, first ounce Or less, 2 
pence half-penny; each additional ounce, i penny half-penny; 
single postcards, i penny ; reply postcards, 2 pence ; newspapers 
and other printed matter, per two ounces, i half -penny. 

Letters to Great Britain and a number of other countries adhering 
to the Insurance agreement of the Universal Postal Union, may be 
insured up to £400. Insurance fee, up to first £12, $d.; for each addi- 
tional fl2, 2l/2d. 

Letters addressed to foreign countries containing coin, jewels, or 
precious articles, cannot be forwarded. 

Books and newspaper packets are limited in weight to 4 lbs. 

The Post Offices at Hamilton, St. George's and Ireland 
Island are open daily (Sundays and holidays excepted) from 
8 A. M. to 5 P. M. (winter), 6 P. M. (summer). Sub-Post 
Offices, from 8 A. M. to ii A. M. and from 2 P. M. to 5 P. M. 
(winter), 6 P. M. (summer). 

Money Orders. There are four Money Order Offices : 
Hamilton, St. George's. Ireland Island and Mangrove Bay. 
Hours. 8 A. M. to 4 P. M. 

There is direct money order service between Bermuda and the 
United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Barbadoes, British Guiana, 
Leeward Islands, St. Lucia. Jamaica and Turks' Islands. Orders may 
also be sent to other places through the Money Order System of the 
United Kingdom. 

Cost of Money Orders: For sums not exceeding £i, 3d.; £2, 6d.; £2 
to £5, i/; £2 to £1. 1/6; £7 to £10, 2/; and 4d. for every additional 
£2 up to £40. 



20 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Parcels Past. There are three Parcel Post Offices: Ham- 
ilton, St. George's and Ireland Island. There is direct Parcel 
Post Service between the United States, Canada, the United 
Kingdom, Barbadoes, Turks' Islands, Jamaica and British 
Guiana. 

Rates of Postage. A. To the United Kingdom, Jamaica and British 
Guiana; first three pounds and under, i/; from 3 to 7 lbs,, 2/; from 
7 to II lbs., 3/. B. To Canada: For first pound or less, 8d.; for 
each additional pound, 6d. C. To the United States, Barbadoes and 
Turks' Islands: first pound or less, 6d. : for each additional pound, 6d. 

Limit of size and weight. To the United States, United Kingdom, 
Barbadoes, Turks' Islands, Jamaica and British Guiana, the weight must 
not exceed 1 1 lbs. ; the parcel must not exceed 3 ft. 6 in. in length, or 
6 ft. in combined length and girth. To Canada, the limit is 2 ft. long 
by I ft. wide and deep. 

•Parqel Post matter must be delivered at the Post Office before 
closing of the afternoon mail the day preceding the closing of the 
regular mail to New York. 

b. Telegraph and Cable Offices and Service 

The local telegraph and foreign cable service of Bermuda 
is in the hands of private corporations : i. The Halifax and 
Bermudas Cable Company, Ltd., with direct lines to Halifax, 
N. S. ; and 2. The Direct West India Cable Company, Ltd., 
with lines to Jamaica. These companies, operating respectively 
since July, 1890, and Jan., 1898, maintain joint offices at No. 6 
Front St., Hamilton, and in the Town Hall, St. George's. 
Office hours, 7.30 A. M. to 7.30 P. M. 

Local telegrams are received at either office, and charged for at 
the rate of 3d. for first 20 words, and id. for each additional 5 words 
or less. 

The rate to Halifax is 36 cents a word; deferred rate, 18 cents; 
to New York City, 42 cents a word; deferred rate, 24 cents. 

c. Government Radio Service 

Commencing March 15, 1920, His Majesty's Wireless 
Telegraph Station, at Daniel's Head, was made available to 
the public for telegraphic correspondence to points in the 
United States, Canada and the West Indies. Messages will 
be received for transmission, at the cable offices in Hamilton 
or St. George's during office hours, 7.30 A. M. to 7.30 P. M. 

Rates to New York: 1/ 2d. per word; to Halifax Jamaica and 
British Guiana, i/ per word. Other rates on application at Cable Office. 
Messages intended for transmission by this service should be clearly 
marked "Via Government Radio," at the head of the message form. 

VIII. Theatres and Other Places of Entertainment 

High-class professional performances, either musical or 
dramatic, are a rare treat in Bermuda. Touring companies 
from England or Canada, and more rarely from the United 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 3i 

States, occasionally visit the Islands. But for the most part 
Bermndians are dependent for theatrical entertainments upon 
local amateur talent, and that afforded by the Garrison troops, 
and the resident British officers and their families — ^thanks 
to whom the three small Garrison theatres do a valiant share 
in each season's entertainment. Necessarily, however, a large 
share of the evening amusements consists of lectures, readings, 
piano recitals and other musical features, often through the 
courtesy of some gifted professional temporarily visiting the 
Islands. Mark Twain, for instance, made almost his last 
public appearance, when he lectured at the Colonial Opera 
House, for the benefit of the Cottage Hospital. 

Two factors have discouraged visits by travelling com- 
panies : the prevailing scale of low prices, and the lack of 
modern, well equipped theatres, with proper facilities for 
stage settings, lighting effects, etc. The completion of the 
Colonial Opera House in 1908 in a measure solved the sec- 
ond profelem for Hamilton ; but there are no similar facilities 
at St. George's, Somerset or the Flatts, where otherwise 
one-night stands could profitably be put in. Quite recently, 
motion picture shows, having no such limitations, have gained 
in favor, and seem likely to multiply. 

Under these conditions, there is naturally no established 
rate of admission, the prices varying with the nature of the 
performance. The figures quoted below are based upon 
average prices for several years past. 

a. Hamilton 

Colonial Opera House (p. 64), Victoria St., E. of Court 
St., first opened Christmas week, 1907, with an amateur 
Minstrel Show. 

High-class musical or dramatic entertainments: Evenings: 1/6, 2/6, 
4/ and 5/; Saturday matinees: adults, 2/6; children, 1/6. Lectures, 
Concerts, etc., i/, 2/ and 3/. 

Mechanics^ Hall (p. 57), Queen St., cor. of Church St. 

High-class drama: 3/6 and 5/; Lectures, Readings, etc.: i/, 2/, 3/; 
Motion Pictures: 1/ and 1/6. 

Wesley Church Lecture Room (p. 63), Church St., E. 
of Parliament St. 

Lectures, Concerts, etc.: Admission i/. 

Presbjrterian Hall (p. 63), Church St., E.iof Court St. 

Lectures and Readings: Admission i/. 

The Victory (p. 57), Queen St., W. side, opened in 
1921 by the Bermuda Moving Picture Co. 

jMotion Pictures: Admission, gd. 



22 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

b. Outside of Hamilton 
Town Hall (p. 103), Market Square, St. George's. 

High-class entertainments: i/, 2/ and 3/; ^Motion Pictures, 1/ 
and 1/6. 

Garrison Theatre, St. George's. 

Reserved seats 2/; Unreserved seats, 6d and i/. 

Lyceum (p. 90), Bailey's Bay. 

Theatricals, 2/; Lectures, 1,', 

Thorburn Memorial Hall (p. 121), Middle Road, War- 
wick. 

Lectures, Readings, etc.: Admission i/. 

Lough Memorial Hall (p. 120), Warwick. 

Lectures, Readings, Concerts, etc.: Admission from 1/ to 2/. 

Prospect Gymnasium (p. 79), Mt. Prospect Garrison, 
Devonshire. 

Reserved seats, 3/; Unreserved seats, 2/ and,i/; Soldiers and 
Sailors in uniform, one-half price of unreserved seats. 

Sparyard Theatre (p. 135), Dockyard, Ireland Island. 

Reserved seats, 2/6; Unreserved seats, 1/6; Gallery, i/. 

IX. Sports, Games, Etc. 

Athletics. The Bermuda Athletic Association was or- 
ganized May 18 1904, with the avowed object of training the 
young men and boys of Bermuda to a fitting physical stan- 
dard, and to this end provided facilities for cricketing, rowing, 
canoeing, running, and various other sports. For 15 years its 
headquarters were in a hall on Reid St., opposite the telephone 
building. In 1920, however, it acquired the club house and 
grounds of the former Hamilton Cricket Club (see below, 
under Cricket). Since then its membership and general ac- 
tivities have greatly increased. The Ireland Island Cricket 
Association, formed in 1920, is an amalgamation of several 
former Ireland Island clubs, and controls practically all the 
sports held in the Dockyard. 

Aviation. See inter-island travel, p. 15. 

Bicycling. See inter-island travel, p. 12. 

Billiards. There are billiard rooms at the Hamilton, 
Princess, Windsor, American House, Kenwood, and various 
other hotels. An annual tournament for the championship 
of Bermuda has heen held for many years, in Jan., at the 
Washington House, East Broadway, Hamilton, to which spec- 
tators are admitted on payment of 6d, the proceeds going to 
the Hospital Fund. The prize, a silver cup, has been repeatedly 
won by Mr. Owen Darrow, proprietor of the hotel. Annual 
tournaments are also held at the Dinghy Club and the Royal 
Bermuda Yacht Club. 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 23 

Coaching. Coaching has been so rarely essayed in Ber- 
muda that it was practically a new venture when initiated in 
Dec, 1920, by a run from the Princess Hotel to St. George's. 
The guests of honor included Governor Willcocks the At- 
torney General and the Mayor of Hamilton. Time to Market 
Sq., 15^ hours. 

Cricket. In Bermuda, as in England, cricket holds a 
place among land sports analogous to that of baseball in 
Arnerica, the season lasting from June till the end of Sept. 
Before the war there were a number of active local clubs, 
of which the most energetic was the Hamilton Cricket Club, 
organized in 1891, which grew from its original 30 to a 
membership of about 150. In 1904 it acquired the Richmond 
Cricket Ground on the Serpentine Road, PeTnbroke (p. 69), 
and in 1907 erected a commodious club house. Other organi- 
zations were the Central Parishes Cricket Club, organized 1905, 
and the Sandys United Cricket Club, dating from 1901. There 
were also the two Garrison Clubs at Prospect and St. 
George's, and a Naval Club at Ireland Island. 

The war left cricket at a very low ebb, both financially 
and through depletion of membership from loss in battle, 
and from the large number of young men who found wider 
fields of activity in England or Canada. Not only cricket. 
but_ other local sports, had to be reorganized on a different 
basis. The Richmond Cricket Ground was taken over by 
the Bermuda Athletic Association (p. 69), in the fall of 1920, 
which adopted a go-ahead policy that rapidly swelled its mem- 
bership, and put new life into football, trap shooting, and 
other sports. A similar consolidat'on resulted in the Ireland 
Island Athletic Association, formed in Aug., 1920. which 
practically controls all sports held at the Dockyard. Through 
the stimulus given by these larger associations, cricket has 
not only revived, but new clubs have been formed, including 
the St. David's Island Cricket Club. 

Fishing. Among marine sports fishing ranks, with 
the native Bermudian, second only to yachting. The abundant 
resources of the local waters are indicated by the fact that 
296 separate species of fish have been listed; and any angler 
who goes out to the reefs accompanied by a native fisherman 
can he promised good sport. There are many points along 
the coast, and even in the harbours and lagoons where fish 
of a fair size may be taken. But for real sport and comfort 
a whale boat should be engaged, or better yet, a sloop fitted 
with a well for preservins- the catch alive, if a whole day at 
the reefs is planned for. For deep-water fishing, rod and reel 



24 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

are practically unknown, and long hand lines are necessary, 
since the larger fish may need deep soundings — the Red 
Snapper, for instance, feeds at a depth of 50 fathoms. 

"If Bermudians cannot offer Tarpon at the angler's altar, at least 
they can name a dozen big fish which have the fighting instinct. The 
dean of all is the Rockfish, running up to 100 pounds, and when he is 
hooked you have on your hands a contest that burns the skin oft' tender 
fingers. The Hogfish, Chub and Amberfish, all of respectable weight, 
are game to the bone, and for downright treachery green and spotted 
Morays, long, supple and slimy, are to be commended. ... It is 
foolhardy to take liberties with the jaws of the Green Moray; one that 
was captured for the New York Aquarium, bit a piece out of an inch 
plank in its struggle for liberty." — W. B. Hayward, "Bermuda Past 
and Present." 

Cub Sharks, from two to three feet in length, also put 
up a good fight. They suddenly surround a boat at night, 
fighting and plunging in their search for food; and while they 
put a stop to all other fishing, they afford ample sport for a 
whole evening. June is the month for Groupers: 

"When word goes out that the Groupers are 'snapping' in their 
spawning grounds along the South Shore, there is the fastest kind of 
fishing. The fish are ravenous and reckless, biting at unlbaited hooks, 
and one man's work is to string the captives by their mouths on a line 
kept overboard for the purpose. Thus 'winded,' or inflated by contact 
M'ith the air, they are towed ashore and put into reserve ponds to regain 
their strength and fatten for the market." — Hayward. 

Among the fish most esteemed for the table by connois- 
seurs should be mentioned: The Angel-fish, Chub, Grouper 
and Rockfish. The reputation of the Angel-fish dates back 
three centuries ; for Jourdan, writing in 1613, says "There is 
one strange fish, and beautif ull to behold ; we call it an Angel- 
fishj for as you see the pictures of an angell made, so is this, 
and it shows of many colours both in the water swimming and 
out of the water, and as daintie a fish of meate as a salmon, 
or rather better." The more common table fish are : Snappers, 
Yellow-tail, Hinds, Grunts and Squirrels, most of which are 
easily recognized by their brilliant markings. 

The Spotted Snapper is white, with lorritudinal lines of yellow, 
and large oval black spots on each flank; the Yellow-tail is pale azure 
on back, pearly white below, with a band of rich yellow along its side. 
The Hind has scarlet spots on a grayish ground. "All these are taken 
with the line and with the seine, as well as in pots. They chiefly 
frequent 'broken ground,' where patches of white sand alternate with 
masses of rough rock and fields of grass-like weeds. They bite freely 
at a bait of pilchard." — T. L. Godet, "Bermuda." 

Football. Part of the new activity of the Bermuda 
Athletic Association, since acquiring the old Richmond Cricket 
Grounds, is a revival of interest in football ; and matches 
between the club team and various garrison teams are an annual 
feature of the fall season. There are also annual competitions 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 25 

for the Governor's Football Cup, between the garrison teams 
and the navy barracks teams, and also for the Ireland Island 
Cup, originally given to the Royal Dockyard Football Ciub, 
for administration by the Ireland Island Co-operative Society. 
Golf. The outlook for golf in Bermuda has greatly 
improved in the past year, with the rapid progress toward 
completion of two new and thoroughly up-to-date courses. 
Hitherto most visitors have had to content themselves with 
the rather uninteresting links of the Bermuda Golf Club 
(organized in 1897), situated on Spanish Point (p. 74), to 
which all visitors are eligible for temporary membership, 
upon payment of half-year dues : Jan.-June, 25/, or £3 for 
families of three or more; July-Dec, one-half the above 
amounts; daily subscription, 3/. A more recently established 
course adjoins the St. George Hotel, on Rose Hill, St. 
George's (p. 103). There is also the links of the Garrison 
Golf Chth (p. 76), on the North Shore Road, E. of Govern- 
ment House. 

Of the two new courses now nearing completion (1922) the one 
with the greater natural advantages and more elaborate plans is that 
of the Bermuda Development Company (p. 98), at Tucker's Town, 
with an available two miles of sand-dunes. It is a stretch of country 
which, as one enthusiast recently expressed it, "would readily adapt 
itself to a nice sporty course. There would be holes right on the edge 
of the ocean, and any golf architect with a bit of imagination and 
sentiment could make a golfer's paradise there." The rival new 
course is that of the RiddeU's Bay Golf and Country Club, Ltd. 
(p. 122), which is being developed on the tract occupying the peninsula 
projecting into the Great Sound on the N. side of RiddeU's Bay. This 
tract is diversified by many coves and inlets; but it lacks the advantage 
of the rolling sand hills of Tucker's Town. 

Horse Racing. The Bermuda and Garrison Hunt Club 
was organized as the Bermuda Hunt Club in 1876 by the 
military and gentry of the Colony, who were fond of the sport 
of horse racing, and meetings were held thereafter fairly 
regularly once or twice a year. In Oct., 1884, the club acquired 
land for a race course at Shelly Bay. where they laid out the 
present half-mile track. The course is used both for running 
and trotting races, the latter being given for the first time 
in Jan., 1904. About 1908 racing was temporarily abandoned, 
owing to dissatisfaction with the bad condition of the track, 
owners of valuable horses refusing to take the risk of entering 
them. Subsequently the club was reorganized and the track 
repaired (p7 82). 

Admission: Grand Stand, 4/; Hill Enclosure, 2/; Car- 
riages, 2/, 

Sea Bathing. The beaches of Bermuda oflfer a wide 
choice for bathing and swimming, from the surf bathing on 



26 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

the South Shore, to the quieter blue waters of the North 
Shore, and the greater seclusion of little bays and islands in 
the harbours and in Harrington Sound. Several of the larger 
hotels situated on or near the water, have their own pavilions 
and bathing houses ; and the Princess Hotel has besides a large 
enclosed swimming pool. For the most part, however, sea 
bathing in Bermuda is devoid of fashion and ceremony. Visi- 
tors expecting anything corresponding to Palm Beach or 
Atlantic City, are doomed to disappointment. On the other 
hand, the crystal clearness of the water, where every shell 
or pebble at the bottom is visible, gives the sport here a 
novelty and zest not known elsewhere. 

"Bathing in primitive Bermuda fashion is a delight. Row to an 
uninhabited island, don your suit in the bushes, and plunge overboard — 
that is the way. Women use one side of the island as their dresSing-room, 
men the other. Not a soul disturbs the party; the place is yours until 
you leave. At any beach there is the same seclusion, and no danger. 
No man-eating sharks are about — they dare not brave the reefs; the 
undertow is insignificant, and bottom is always in sight — you know 
where you are treading. And the water — a filter could not make it 
clearer. It is a refreshing apoetizer for the tea that invariably follows 
the bath." — Hayward, "Bermuda Past and Present." 

While it is true that casualties from sharks have been 
practically unknown in recent years, yet sharks large enough 
to be dangerous, if they so cared, do, at rare intervals, brave 
the reefs and enter the harbours. 

On June 23, 1908, a 12-foot shark, weighing between 500 and 600 
pounds, was captured ofif Agar's Island. As recently as July 10, 1920, 
an 1 1 -foot shark was taken close by the Isle of White, one of the most 
frequented public bathing places; and the same month two sharks were 
caught on one hook in Jew's Bay — the smaller shark had been caught 
first; and the larger fish, measuring 11 ft., had been hooked while 
attempting to devour the other. 

There are public bath houses at Elba Beach (p. 124), the 
Isle of White (p. 50) and at Ocean Bright, 'Spanish Point 
(p. 68). The usual charges are: Bath house, including tow^el, 
i/; bathing suit, 1/ ; shoes, 6d. ; children under 12, half price. 

Shooting. One by-product of the war is a sudden keen 
revival of interest among Bermudians in target and trap 
shooting. One of the most recently organized associations is 
the Bermuda Gun Club, for the purpose of clay pigeon shoot- 
ing; and by permission of the Bermuda Athletic Association, 
meetings are held weekly at the Richmond Cricket Ground, 
the first competition being held Jan. 17, 1920. Governor 
Willcocks is the first patron of the club, and Sir Colin Rees 
Davies, Chief Justice of Bermuda, is the first president. There 
is also a newly organized Bermuda War Veterans' Association 
Rifle Club, which held its first shoot in June, 1920. Governor 
Willcocks, who consented to be its president, gave the first 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 27 

prize for competition. The meetings are held at Warwick 
Range. Matches are often held also between the Garrison 
troops, the Bermuda Volunteer Rifle Corps, etc, at the Tank 
Bay Rifle Range, St. George's. 

Tennis. Tennis is played everywhere in Bermuda, and 
all the leading hotels (have excellent courts, either grass or 
concrete, and in some cases 'both. The courts of the Princess 
Hiotel, Hamilton, and of St. George's Hotel, St. George's, are 
especially fine ; while the courts at the Inverurie are popular 
because pleasantly surrounded by protective shade trees. The 
leading local association is the Happy Valley Tennis Club, 
with headquarters at Happy Valley, adjoining Mt. Prospect, 
Devonshire. 

Yachting. Water sports are easily the most popular 
forms of entertainment that Bermuda has to offer; and among 
them yachting, in the opinion of the native Bermudian, takes 
the lead. There are numerous yacht clubs in Bermuda, and 
races are frequently held throughout the year for the entertain- 
ment of visitors. The leading organization is the Royal 
Bermuda Yacht Club, organized Nov. i, 1844, under Moore's 
famous Calabash Tree at Walsingham (p. 92), about 40 
members being then enrolled. And in Dec, 1845, Queen Vic- 
toria granted permission for the organization to be called the 
iRoyal Bermuda Yacht Club. The headquarters of the club 
are on Front St., Hamilton, (p. 52). The Bermuda Boat 
and Canoe Club, formed in Nov., 1905, was the outgrowth of 
an older organization, The Bermuda Rowing Club, which dated 
from 1875. The new organization soon attained a membership 
of 150, and has a handsome club house at Pitt's Bay; the St. 
George's Yacht Club was founded in 1907, and has a com- 
modius club house at "Glen Duror" on the upper waters of 
St. George's Harbour. The Harrington Yacht Club dates 
from about 1912, and has headquarters near Bailey's Bay. The 
Hamilton Dinghy Club, with a commodious club house on 
Reid St., Hamilton, is probably the most interesting of all the 
Bermuda boat clubs to the average visitor, since it exists 
primarily to foster a distinctly Bermudian sport, the Dinghy 
Races. The Dinghy is a little open boat, built of the buoyant 
native cedar, sloop-rigged, with leg-o'-mutton mainsail. Ac- 
cording to the rules, a dinghy must not be more than 14 ft. 
I in. over all, but there is no limitation placed on the sail- 
spread, time allowances being based on the boat's^ measured 
tonnage. Great skill is needed in handling these little boats, 
for thev carrv an astonishing amount of canvas and spars when 
engaged in the regattas. 



28 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

"Some idea of the amount of sail carried in light weather is appar- 
ent from the size of the spars. The bowsprit is longer than the boat, 
the mast twice as long, and there is nearly as much sail on the boom 
as on the mast. The spinnaker contains nearly as much cloth as jib 
and mainsail combined. With this smother of sail the dinghy must neces- 
sarily be tender. She has a lead-filled false keel, with a deep 
sheet-iron jaw or 'fan' attached, but despite this weight below water, 
the boat is so cranky that she will capsize when the mast is stepped, 
unless men and ballast are on board. 

"With every stitch of canvas drawing, and the mast buckling like 
whalebone, with her lee gunwale under water, and the men leaning so 
far out to windward that their backs are flecked with foam — this is the 
way a dinghy drives along under the impetus of a full breeze. . . . 
If the loaded canvas proves too much, there is one ending only. The 
dinghy rolls, buries her stem, and sinks slowly to bottom. Sails dis- 
appear, and only men are left to flounder about in the water. A buoy 
attached to the boat floats to the surface, and they pull her up and rig a 
suit of dry sails in time for the next event." — IV. B. Hayward, "Bermuda 
Past and Present." 

A Championship Cup for Dinghy Races was subscribed for in the 
8o's, and the first race for it took place in 1887. For the past 10 years 
the Hamilton Dinghy Club has retained possession of it, the only chal- 
lenge during that time having been from the St. George's Yacht Club in 
Aug., 1920, when the War Baby once more won it for he Dinghy Club. 

International Yacht Races. In Jan., 1906, Sir Thomas Lipton 
offered a Cup, value, $500 for a yacht race from New York to Bermuda. 
Limit of length, 50 ft. over all; amateur crews not exceeding eight men. 
The race was from Gravesend Bay, under auspices of the Brooklyn 
Yacht Club, the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club being invited to co-operate. 
Three yachts started May 29th, and the race was won by the Tamerlane 
(commanded by Mr. T. F. Day), which made land June 3d at 9 A. M. 
Other races were run in 1907, 1908 and 1909, when the distance was 
covered by the Margaret in 3 days 6 hours. 

Motor Boat Racing. In 1907 a prize Cup, value £200, was offered 
by James Gordon Bennett for a motor boat race from New York to 
Bermuda. There were two entries, and the winner was the Ailsa Craig, 
under command of Thomas Fleming Day, editor of the Rudder. The 
Ailsa Craig again won in 1908. In 1909 four boats started, the winner 
being the Heather. Since the war an attempt was made to revive these 
races under the auspices of the Columbia Yacht Club and Royal Ber- 
muda Yacht Club. The start from New York was scheduled for June 
26, 1920, and Vincent Astor's Crist ina. was entered. The race was 
abandoned for lack of sufficient entries. 

X. Clubs 

In a countr}^ like Bermuda, where the Legislature itself 
is distinguished by t(he absence of an Opposition Party, it is 
not surprising to find a dearth of political clubs- Bermuda 
clubs are practically all social ; and the majority were 
founded primarily to foster one or more of the outdoor 
sports. The leading cluib is the Royal Bermuda Yacht Cluh 
(p. 52), with club house on Front St., Hamilton. Equally well 
known is the Dinghy Clwb (p. 58). Of more recently 
acquired impbrtance is the Bermuda Athletic Association 
(p. 69), which has fallen heir to the former club house of the 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 29 

Hamilton Cricket Club on the Serpentine. A purel}^ social 
organization is the Colonial Club which has been in 
existence since 1920, and has proved itself a useful institution. 
In 1920 also the St. George Historial Society was organized, 
the avowed purpose being "to collect rare and old relics of 
Bermuda generally, and of St. George's in particular, and to 
exhibit them." 

For other cluibs and associations, formed to promote the 
interests of cricket, tennis, boating, racing, etc., see generally 
under Sports, Games, etc. (p. 22). 

XI. Shops and Stores 

Among the Bermuda shops there are two types of special 
interest to the transient American visitor: i. Those selling 
souvenirs, curios and articles of native manufacture; 2. Those 
dealing in British and other foreign wares and fabrics. 
Naturally, any one intending to make a lengthy stay, and 
especially if the ,plan involves taking a cottage and keeping 
house, will need a more extended list of the stores where 
the practical necessities may be procured. The following- 
lists are intended to meet briefly all three of these needs. 

The range of articles,, natural and manufactured, which 
may be classed as genuine Bermuda productions, is quite 
limited. The curio shops display a wide variety of woven 
baskets, bead work, coral, pearl and amber strings and 
jewelry, shell ornaments and the like; but a large proportion 
of all these are imported from the West Indies and elsewhere. 
Among the genuine Bermuda products are carved wood 
articles from Calabash and native Bird's-eye Cedar, such as 
napkin rings, paper cutters, trays and trinket boxes. Cedar 
walking sticks, with or without handles and insets of Lemon- 
wood, are abundant at reasonable prices. Baskets, mats and 
a variety of other articles, woven from the fibre of the 
Bermuda palmetto (a species of palm peculiar to_ these 
Islands), form the oldest and best known of the native in- 
dustries, More than a century ago a Bermuda palmetto hat 
was, for a time, the fashionable fad in London. Necklaces 
made from native sea-shells, and from the seed of the Pride- 
of-India tree, either natural or dyed; Calabash pipes, 
reminiscent of Tom Moore; marine specimens; and a wide 
assortment of coral, mother-of-pearl and other jewelry, of 
local workmanship, wellnigh complete the list of true Ber- 
muda products. 

A real attraction, however, offered bv Bermuda shops 
to the American tourist lies in the ample line they carry ot 



30 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

English and Continental manufactured goods, which, while 
far less varied than in pre-war days, still afford many tempt- 
ing bargains at prices, thanks to the moderate Bermuda duties, 
substantially lower than what one would pay in the United 
States. Clothing of all kinds ; dress goods, especially woolens ; 
suitings of flannel, Irish and Scotch homespuns, are the lead- 
ing attraction. But English boots and hats ; English leather 
goods, bags, suit cases, pocket-books, etc., and a miscellaneous 
assortment of other articles, ranging from fine laces to por- 
celains and delicate enamel work, are also to be had at tempt- 
ing prices. 

The shops in the list below are all in Hamilton, unless 
otherwise stated. 

Boots and Shoes. Gibbon Bros., Queen St., opposite New Windsor 
Hotel; Young Bros., Queen St.,. E. side, near Reid St.; English S forts 
Shop, Queen St., E. side, sipecialty, golf and tennis shoes; Trimingham 
Bros., Front andi Reid Sts. ; Lockwood & Co., Reid St.; T. J. Pearman 
& Sons. 

Cedar-wood Work. E. C. Smith, cor. Church and Washington 
Sts. Cedar furniture, souvenirs and novelties; W. P. Laubschcr, 
"Prisoner of the Boer War," East Broadway, S. side. Specialty, boxes 
and walking sticks. See also under Souvenirs and Curios. 

Chemists and Druggists: "Apothecaries Hall," W. H. Heyl & Co., 
N. W. cor. Front and Queen Sts.; Phoenix Drug Company, S. E. cor. 
Queen and Reid Sts.; Master's Drug Store, N. E. cor. Reid and 
Burnaby Sts.; Standard Pharmacy, 17 Front St. St. George's: Robert- 
son's Drug Store, Market Square, W. side, facing Somers Inn. 

Chocolates and Confectionery. The Goody Shop, Reid St.. S. 
side, betw. Queen and Burnaby Sts. Cadbury's, Willard's, Page & 
Shaw's chocolates; Harold Frith, Reid St., N. side, betw. Queen and 
Burnaby Sts. Cadbury's and other English chocolates; Phoenix Drug 
Store, S. E. cor. Queen and Reid Sts.; S. Nelmes, "The Tower," Huy- 
ler's Peters and other brands; "The Store of Quality," 3-7 Queen St. 

Cigars and Tobacco. Bermuda Cigar Stores, N. E. cor Queen and 
Front Sts. Turkisih, Egyiptian and Russian cigarettes; "Orlik" briar 
and calabash pipes; The Smoke Shop, 9 Front St. Dunhill pipes; 
Harold Frith, Reid St., betw. Queen and Burnaby Sts. Also at most 
drug stores. 

Coral, Shell and Amber. See below: Silver and Jewelry, and 
Souvenirs and Curios. 

Dry Goods. Trimingham Bros., Front and Reid Sts., betw. Queen 
and Burnaby Sts. Silk, wool and cotton dress goods, linens, laces, 
millinery. Cox & Wilson. English and French dress goiods; costumes, 
coats, blouses, evening gowns. T. J. Pearman & Sons, cor. Queen and 
Church Sts. Imported dress goods: Lockwood & Co., Reid St., S. side, 
near Queen, St. Dress goods and millinery. 

Gloves. Trimingham Bros., Front and' Reid Sts. Dent's gloves; 
T. J. Pearman & Sons, cor. Queen and Church Sts. Fowne's gloves. 
Co.v & WHson, Queen St., E. side. Fowne's gloves. 

Groceries. Thompson, Roberts & Co. "The Store of Quality," 
3-7 Queen St. English, American and French canned goods; Gosling 
Bros., 32 Front St. Specialties, Crosse & Blackwell goods, Huntley & 
Palmer's biscuits, branches in St. George's and Somerset; O. R. Loblein, 
Front St.; 6". E. Robinson, Burnaby St. 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 31 

Men's Clothing. Ready-made: Trimingham Bros., Queen and Reid 
Sts.; Lock-wood & Co., Raid St.; T. J. Pearinan & Sons, cor. Queen 
and Church Sts.; H. A. & E. Smithy Queen St.; Young Brothers, Queen 
St. Custam Tailor: Win. Smellie, Reid St.; military and naval 
uniforms a specialty. 

Men's Furnishings. Gihban Bros., Queen St.; English Sports 
Shop, Queen St.; Young Bros., Queen St.; T. J. P carman & Sons, Gor. 
Queen and Church St. 

Optical Goods. E. M. Astwood, 55 Front St.: Phoenix Drug Store, 
cor. Queen and Reid Sts. 

Photographs and Photographic Supplies. A^. E. Lusher & Sun, 
photographers and photo stock dealers, York Building, Queen St. De- 
veloping and printing; W. Weiss & Co., Reid St., betw. Queen and 
Burnaby Sts.; Phoenix Drug Store, cor. Queen, and, Reid Sts. Eastman 
films and Kodak supplies. Developing and printjng; Master's Drug 
Store, cor. Reid and Burnaby Sts. Developing and" printing. 

Silver, Jewelry, Watches. Duncan M. Doe, Queen St., under 
Colonial Hotel. Art jewelry; Norwegian, EnglisTi and Canadian enam- 
els; E. M. Astwood, 55 iPront St. Old Dutch silver, enameled souvenirs; 
branch in Market Square, St. George's; Mrs. H. G. Recht, Cliurch St., 
opposite Hamilton Hotel. Art jewelry. 

Souvenirs and Curios. The Yankee Store, N, E. cor. Queen and 
Reid Sts. Specialties, cedar and calabash woods, bead work and baskets, 
coral and amber jewelry. The Gift Shop, Queen St., next to American 
Hotel. Coral and amber; souvenir spoons: imported oliina and porce- 
lains. Little Green Shop, Queen St., S. of Par-la-Ville. Baskets, bead 
work, cedar wood; specialty, Irish and Scotch homespuns; Mrs. H. G. 
Recht, Church St., opposite Hamilton Hotel (open mornings). Art 
jewelry, garnet and amber; curiosities. Duncan M. Doe, Queen St., 
near Church St. Specialties, Bermuda shell novelties; The Sea Gardens, 
Queen St. opposite NeAv Windsor Hotel. Sea shells, sea-fans, corals, 
sponges, etc. S. Nelmes, "The Tozver," S. E. cor. Reid and Burnaby 
Sts. Specialties, souvenir china and enameled jewelry. St. George's: 
Queen Ann Shop, Main St., N. side, near Market Square. 

XII. Churches: Religious Services 

The Church of England in Bermuda comprises approxi- 
mately 12,000 mem'bers, or two-thirds of the entire popula- 
tion, white and colored. It dates from the foundation of the 
colony, since the Rev. Richard Buck accompanied Sir George 
Somers in the Sea Venture, and performed the first religious 
services in the Islands. Bermuda was attached to the See 
of Nova Scotia from 1825 until 1839, when upon the estab- 
lishment of the See of Newfoundland, Bermuda, was joined 
to it. On the formation of a Synod in 1879, Bermuda 
became a separate diocese, whereupon the Rt. Rev. Llewellyn 
Jones, Bishop of Newfoundland, was unanimously invited to 
become also Bishop of Bermuda. 

By an Act of 1882 the appointment of the clergy (formerly by the 
Crown) is vested in the Synod, composed of clergy and lay delegates 
elected by church vestries in each parish. Each rector has two parishes, 
except the rector of St. George's, who has, in reality, a second parish 
on St. David's Island. The clergy formerly received a small allowance 



2,2 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

from the Public Treasury, on a capitation basis of £io per hundred as 
returned by previous census. But, by the Clergy Act of 1896, grants 
from the Public Treasury in aid of religion ceased in 1908, the pay- 
ments being progressively diminished by 25 per cent every three years. 
Meanwhile the Bermuda Church Society had been established in 1876, 
to collect funds for increasing incomes of the clergy; for maintainance 
of the Bishop, and providing for widows of the clergy. The annual 
meeting of this Society held in Jan. at Hamilton, and usually presided 
over by the Governor, is one of the big social events of the year. 

The Methodist Church belongs tto the Nova Scotian Con- 
ference, and has between 1800 and 1900 members. The Pres- 
byterian Church in Hamilton is connected with the Presbytery 
of Nova Scotia ; the church in Warwick is connected with 
the Free Kirk of Scotland. Together they have a member- 
ship of about 60a The Roman Catholic Church in Bermuda 
is attached to the See of Halifax, N. S., the Archbishop pay- 
ing periodical visits. The membership is about 900, of whom 
the great majority are Portuguese or of Portuguese extrac- 
tion. In addition to the priest stationed at Hamilton, there 
is a Roman Catholic chaplain to the Forces. 

The majority of visitors staying in or near Hamilton 
naturally attend service at the Cathedral. It is recommended, 
however, that they attend at least the evening service at 
the attractive Parish church of St. John, Pembroke; and if 
the visit exceeds one week, one Sunday should be given to 
the Garrison Church at Prospect, because of the Regimental 
Band. The following list gives the principal churches of each 
denomination with hours of service. 

Anglican: The Cathedral (p. 62); Holy Communion, 8 A. M.; 
Matins and sermon, 11 A. M.; Evensong and sermon, 7.30 P. M. St. 
John's Pembroke (p. 71); Holy Communion 8 A. M. ; Morning service, 
II A. M. ; Evening service, 7.30 P. il. Garrison Church, Prospect 
(p. 79), Holy Communion, 8 A. M.; Parade service, 11 A. M. : Evening 
service, 6.30 P. M. Chrht Church (p. 121); Morning service and Holy 
Communion, 11 A. M.; Evening service,' 7.30 P. M. _ St. Mark's, Smith's 
(p. 9S); Morning service 11 A. M.; Holy Euchcarist 12. Holy Trinity, 
Hamilton (p. 88); Evensong and sermon, 4 P. M. ; Holy Baptism, 
5 P. M. \S"^ Paul's, Paget (p. 119); Holy Communion, 8 A. M. : Matins 
and sermon, 11 A. M.; The Catechism, 4 P. M.: Evensong and sermon, 
7.30 P. M. St. Mary's Warwick (p. 122); Holy Communion, 8 A. M.; 
Morning service, 11 A. M. ; Evening service, 7.30 P. M. St. Peter's, 
St. George's (p. 104); Holy Communion. 7.30 A. M.; Matins and Holy 
Communion, 'II A. M. ; Evensong and sermon, 7.30 P. M. Garrison 
Church, St. George's (p. no): Parade service, 9.30 A. M. St. David's 
Chapel (p. 112): Holy Communion, 9 A. M.; Evening service, 7 P. M. 
St. Ann's, Southampton (p. 126): Holy Communion, 8 A. M.; St. 
James. Sandys (p. 130); Holy Communion and sermon, 8 A. M.; 
Evensong and sermon, 7.30 P. M. 

Pbesbyterian: St. Andrezvs, Hamilton City (p. 63): Services 
II A. M. and 7.30 P. M. Christ Church, Warwick (p. 121): Morning 
service, 11 A. M, 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 33 

Methodist: Wesley Church, Hamilton City CP- 63): Communion 
service, 11 A. M.; Evening service, 7.30 P. M. Grace Church, Pembroke 
(p. 75) ; Evening service, 7.30 P. M. Ebeneser Church, St, George's 
(p. 103): Services, 11 A. M. and 7.30 P. M. Bailey's Bay, Hamilton 
(p. 89): Morning service, 11 A, M. Tucker's Town Chapel (p. 98): 
Evening service, 7.30 P. M. Port Royal Chapel, Southampton. Morn- 
ing service, 11 A. M. Somerset Chapel, Sandys (.p. 131): Sacra- 
mental service, 7.30 P. M. Ireland Island Chapel, Parade service, 
10.30 A. M. 

Roman Catholic: St. Edzvard's, Hamilton City (p. 64): Mass, 
II A.M.; Rosary and Benediction, 8 P.M. St. George's, St. George's 
(p. 109): Mass on ist and 3d Sundays, 8 A. M. 

Christian Science Society: Burnaby St., Hamilton. Sunday 
services, ji A. M. 

African Methodist Episcopal: St. Paul's, Hamilton City (p. 64): 
Services 11 A. M. and 7.30 P. M. 

XIII. Libraries and Reading Rooms 

Bermuda has few library facilities. The Public Library 
(p. 56), now in Par-la-Ville, Queen :St., Hamilton, is open 
free, for consultation, daily, excepting Sundays and holidays, 
both to citizens and visiting- strangers, from 10 A.M. to i 
PjM. ; 2 :30 to 8 P.M. ; circulating privileges, 6/ per year. 
There is a Circulating Library in The Tower, cor, Reid and 
Burnaiby Sts. ; terms is. 6d, per month, 8s. 6d. per year, 
entitling holder to two books at a time. A deposit of 8s, 6d. 
is required, returnable at end of period. Single volumes 
may be taken out by transient visitors on payment of 3d, a 
week. The newly organized St. George's Historical Society 
includes in its plans a library and reading room, which 
tourists staying at St. George's will find useful. 

XIV. Ne'vvspapers and Periodicals 

History. The first newspaper published in Bermuda was 
the Bermuda Gazette, the first issue of which appeared at 
St. George's, Jan. 17, 1784, its leading feature being the text 
of ,"The Definite Treaty Between Great Britain and the 
United States, signed at Paris, Sept., 1783." The Gazette 
was edited and published by one, J. Stockdale, and after his 
death by his son-in-law, C, R. Beach, under whose manage- 
ment it survived until May 29, 1824. During this period it 
had for a few years one rival, due, to its indiscretion in pub- 
lishing, in 1809, libellous attacks upon the Administration of 
Governor Hodgson, The Governor promptly sent to Halifax 
for a certain Edmund Ward whom he appointed King's 
Printer, and who established and published the Bermuda Royal 
Gazette from 1809 to 1816. But Ward in turn incurred 



34 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

official displeasure during the War of 1812 when, in conse- 
quence of his publishing certain details of the capture of the 
American frigate President by the British ship Endymion, 
accepting and insisting upon Commodore Decatur's version in 
spite of GrtDvernor Cockburn's denial, he was deprived of his 
commission as King's Printer. 

The Royal Gazette, destined to survive unchanged for 
nearly a century, was first issued Jan. 8, 1828; and its policy 
as outlined in the prospectus is fairly representative of its 
whole career : "The pages of the Royal Gazette will never be 
profaned by the scandals of private malice, or the bitterness 
of private contention, 'but will be devoted to extracts from 
the most approved literature of the day, and to the best orig- 
inal composition that can be obtained within the Colony." The 
Royal Gazette was founded by David Ross Lee, and its second 
issue announced the arrival of the schooner which brought 
from Prince Edward Island his son Donald McPihee Lee, who 
successively as collaborator, editor and proprietor devoted 'him- 
self untiringly for 55 years, as editor of this paper. After his 
death in 1833 the Gazette was continued by his son Gregory 
Vose Lee. The Royal Gazette throughout its career has been 
the Government paper of B'ermuda. 

The Bermuda Colonist, formerly published at St. George's 
every Wednesday morning, was established in 1866, and after 
it came into possession of Mr. S. S. Toddings, in 1869, was 
much enlarged, and made its principal feature the publication 
of full reports of the debates of the House of Assembly. 
Both the Royal Gazette and the Colonist seriously felt the 
financial stringency during the World War, with the result 
that on Jan. 2, 1921, the two papers combined their interests 
under the new title Royal Gazette and Colonist Daily, issued 
every week day at the Colonist office, Hamilton. Meanwhile, 
Mr. S. S. Toddings after 40 years management of the Colon- 
ist, sold out his interest in 191 1 and founded the Mid-Ocean, 
an independent and outspoken paper with a vigorous editjprial 
policy. 

There have been various other papers, including the Mirror, 
the Bermuda Times, etc. But they have all proved short lived. 

XV. Physicians, Dentists, Hospitals 

Physicians. Visitors to Bermuda who chance to need 
medical attendance will find an ample choice of resident phy- 
sicians, with training received either in English or American 
medical schools. Under the Medical Registrations Act of 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 35 

1905 all practicing ph3sicians in Bermuda are rec^uired to, 
publish annuall}^ their names, degrees and date of registration ; 
and a complete list is to be found in an early January issue 
of the Royal Gazette. Several of the leading physicians have 
offices on Reid St., Hamilton, among them Dr. Dudley C, 
Trott and Dr. E. C. Wilkinson. 

Dentists. Under a recent amendment practicing dentists 
are required to make annual publication in the same manner 
as physicians. Visitors requiring dental treatment will find a 
number of thoroughly modern and capable dentists in Ber- 
muda, with American training. Among the best known are 
Dr. Francis L. Wattlington and Dr. Dunbar Bell, with offices 
on Reid St., Hamilton ; Dr. Thomas W. Mercer, and Dr. 
W. T. Conyers. 

Hospitals. Until the opening, in 1920, of the King Ed-^ 
ivard VII. Memorial Hospital, Bermuda had long felt keenly 
the lack of adequate hospital equipment for civilians. The 
needs of the army and navy were amply met by the Garrison 
hospitals at Prospect and St. George's, and the naval hospital 
on Ireland Island. The Cottage Hospital which until 1920 
was the only general hospital on the Islands, and dated only 
from 1887, was badly handicapped both by lack of space and 
of funds; and as late as 191 1 there was but one bed in the 
general ward available for free patients. The new Memorial 
Hospital has a total capacity of 64 beds, including a surgical 
ward, two public wards of ten beds each and 12 private wards 
of one bed each. There are, moreover, plans for early en-^ 
largements that will greatly extend the present capacity. 

XVI. Banks 

There are two banks in Bermuda: the Bank of N. T. 
Biitterfield & Son, Ltd., incorporated in 1904, with offices at 
No. 49 Front St., Hamilton, which now carries on the general 
banking business formerly conducted by N. T. Butterfield &, 
Son ; and the Bank of Bermuda, Limited, incorporated in 
1889, with offices at No. 50 Front St., with branch banks at 
St. George's and Somerset. Both of these houses are bankers 
for the Colonial Government, and cheques are now given and 
received in Government transactions. The Imperial Govern- 
ment avail themselves of the services of the Bank of Ber-- 
muda. 

XVII. Planning a Bermuda Stay 

From the standpoint of the sight-seer. Bermuda is almost 
unique in the peculiar elasticity which its range of attractions 
possesses. The visitor making a round trip on the same 



36 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

steamer, Avith but one day ashore at his command, finds it 
possible to traverse the Islands from St George's to the 
Dockyard, taking in on his way the principal caves, Walsing- 
ham House, the Devil's Hole, the City of Hamilton, Gibb's 
Lighthouse and perhaps a few of the old churches. And he 
will bring away as vivid and indelible a memory of marble- 
white roads, waters incredibly blue and tropic vegetation 
ablaze with yellow and orange and red, as though he had been 
privileged to lengthen his stay to weeks. And on the other 
hand, the visitor spending the better part of a season in Ber- 
muda will discover daily some new byway, some unexplored 
nook or corner possessing subtle, minor differences that give 
it the essential stamp of novelty. 

a. Distribution of Time 

The following suggested sight-seeing itinerary, which is 
planned for a ten-day stay, will aid the visitor in covering 
the principal points of interest with a minimum of effort 
and loss of time. The distances in Bermuda are not great, 
but lack of anything in the way of rapid transit makes it 
desirable, so far as possible, to cover each separate district in 
a single trip, and thus avoid retracing steps, and duplicating 
the longer drives. The visitor to whom economy is an object 
will do well to study the aids offered by the ferries and bus 
service (p. lo, 14), since with thetr help anyone who is a fairly 
good pedestrian and does not mind an average walk of four 
or five miles a day, can cover all the principal points of 
interest, with the one exception of the Tucker's Town district, 
almost as rapidly as though he went everywhere by carriage, — 
and far more thoroughly. 

Since the steamers to Bermuda usually dock about mid- 
day, and an hour more is likely to be lost over customs 
formalities and hotel accommodations, only a short afternoon 
is left available for sight-seeing, and may most profitably 
be spent in exploring the vicinity of the hotel selected, whether 
in St. George's, Hamilton, The Flatts or Somerset. The 
following itinerary assumes Hamilton as the starting point 
and needs some modifications for visitors located elsewhere. 

Tourists wishing to visit the grounds of Government 
House and Admiralty House, and any of the old fortified 
islands requiring permits, would do well to make application 
at once, especially if their stay is short. Those wishing to 
take any of the aerial tours are urged to book seats promptly 
upon arrival at the agent's office, Victoria St., Hamilton, 
either personally or by telephone. 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION Z7 

First Da3^ Afternoon: Stroll througii Hamilton, visit- 
ing the Public Buildings (p. 52), the Sessions House (p. 60), 
Par-la-Ville Gardens, including Public Library and Natural 
History Museum (p. 54), the Cathedral, with ascent of tower 
if time permits (p. 62), and Victoria Park (p. 64), 

If the visitor is staying in St. George's, a preliminary ramble 
through Market Square, the Somers Gardens, St. Peter's Church and 
Rose Hill may be substituted. If at the Flatts, a good substitute is a visit 
to The Peak, and ascent of observation tower. If at the Inverurie, or 
elsewhere in Paget, it is only a fifteen minute trip by ferry to Hamilton: 
or a stroll aJong the Middle Road and visit to Paget or Warwick church 
may be substituted. 

Second Day. Morning: Gibb's Lighthouse, taking in on 
the way St. Paul's Church, Paget (p. 119), Christ Church, 
Presbyterian (p. 121), St. Mary's Church, Warwick (p. 122), 
and Khyber Pass (p. 122). Ascent of Lir<hthouse (p. 127). 
If time permits visit St. Ann's Church, Southampton (p. 126). 
Return by South Shore, passing Warzvick Camp and Rifle 
Range (p. 125). Elba Beach (p. 124) and sand-dunes w^ith 
buried cottage. Afternoon: Walk to Fairyland, via Serpentine 
Road (p. 69), returning by Pitt's Bay Road (p. 70)- 

Third Day. Morning: North Shore Road to The Flatts 
(p- 77), drive around Harrington Sound, visiting the Devil's 
Hole (p. 86), Shark's Hole (PI. HI— P5), (P- 87), Leam- 
ington Cave (p. 88), Washington House (the so-called "Tom 
Moore's House," (p. 90). Trinity Church (p. 88), Crystal 
Cave (p. 90) and Wonderland Cave (p. 90). It is well to take 
luncheon either at Walsingham House or the Frascati, and 
return by Middle Road (p. 30), visiting Old Devonshire 
Church (p. 95), Prospect Camp and the graves of Sir Walter 
Kitchener (p. 79). 

Fourth Day. Morning: Tucker's Town by South Road, 
visiting Public Gardens (p. 94), Edzvard VH Memorial 
Hospital (p. 93), Hungry Bay (p. 94). St. Mark's Church 
(p. 95), Spanish Rock (p. 96), and the Natural Arch (p. 98). 
Afternoon: Walk out Cedar Ave. and St. John's Road to 
Pembroke Parish Church (p. 71), Government House (p. 72)- 

Fifth Day. Morning: An all-day excursion to 5*/'. 
George's. By making an early start it is ^ possible to cover 
the ground in this trip, including an excursion to St Pavid's 
Island. If, however, one relies upon the public bus, the avail- 
able time at St George's is at most onlv about five hours. On 
way out a visit may be paid to the Admiral's Cave (^. 8^), 
the Joyce's Dock Caves (p. 83), Castle Grotto Cave (p. 84) 
and the Blue Hole (p. 84). In St. George's visit the old 
State House (p. 103), the Somers Gardens (p. 107), the un- 



38 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

finished Church of St. George (p. 109), St. Peter's Church 
and Grarweyaird (p. 104), and the ruins of the Home of 'Nea"' 
(p. 106). " 

Sixth Day. Morning: Ferry to Ireland Island (p. 133), 
and visit to Dockyard (p. 135). Luncheon at Somerset. 
Afternoon: Visit Cathedral Rocks (p. 129), and St. James's 
Church, Sandys (p. 130). Return either by ferry or prefer- 
ably by carriage, following North Road through Paget. 

Seventh Day. If the visitor arrived on Monday this 
seventh day will be Sundayj._ when comparatively little sight- 
seeing can be done. There is usually excellent music at the 
Cathedral (p. 62) ; and the Regimental Band at^ Camp Pros- 
pect (p. 79) is a special attraction at the morning service 

Eighth Day. Morning: Trip to Sea-Gardens (p. 139) • 
Afternoon: Spanish Point and Admiralty House (p- 67), 
(PI. III-H3). 

Ninth Day. An all-day excursion to the Islands in 
Castle Harbour (p. 114), King's Castle (p. 116), Charles' Fort 
(p. 115), etc. When the plans of the Bermuda Development 
Company have been completed, and the new hotel is finished, 
this trip will be greatly simplified. At the present, however, 
visitors are advised to prepare for an all-day picnic, and take 
luncheon with them. 

Tenth Day. It is well to reserve this day for filling in 
whatever gaps have been left in the itinerary through lacl^ 
of time or a possible rainy afternoon. ^ Many visitors^ will 
prefer to divide up the Walsingham trip into two visits, a 
plan which offers special advantages in seeing the caves, as 
the latter lose half their interest if visited hurriedly. 

XXI. Bibliography 

There are few small countries which can boast such a 
range of treatment in literature as can Bermuda, both of a 
general and descriptive sort, and on the more special scientific 
lines of natural history and geology. The only comprehensive 
bibliography, that of George Watson Cole, Bermuda in Peri- 
odical Literature (Boston, 1907), contains upward of 5000 
items, and these for the most part are limited to periodic 
literature. 

History. According to Sir J. H. Lefroy, Governor of 
Bermuda in 1874-77, "there is no British Colony of the seven- 
teenth century whose history can be =0 fully traced"; and this 
assertion he abundantly proved bv his two-volume Memorial 
of the Discovery and Early Settlement of the Bermudas or 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 39 

Somcrs Islands, 1515-1685 (London, 1877), which remains the 
standard work lor this period of Bermudian history. For the 
later period there are only the History of the Bermudas by 
William Frith VX'illiams (London, 1848) and Bermuda from 
the Earliest Period to the Present Time, by T. L. Godet (Lon- 
don, i860), both of which leave a wide gap at the modern end. 
Readers who wish a brief and up-to-date summary will find 
the historical chapter in W. B. Hayward's Bermuda Past and 
Present (New York, 1910), the most satisfactory account now 
available. For more serious students who wish to go back to 
original sources, there should be mentioned : La Natural 
Hisioria de las Indias by Oviedo (Toledo, 1526), containing 
the first description of the Islands published in any language; 
The Narrative of Henry May, published by Hakluyt in 1599. 
and being the personal account of the first Englishman known 
to have set foot on the Bermuda Islands ; A Discoverie of the 
Bermudas, by Sil. Jourdain, and a True Repertory of the 
IVracke and Redemption of Sir Thomas Gates, Knight, from 
the Islands of the Bermudas, by W. Strachey (London, 1610], 
both of these being accounts by companions of Admiral Sir 
George Somers, of the wreck of the Sea Venture; and first 
colonization of the Islands. The General Historie of Virginia, 
New England and the Summer Islands, by Capt. John Smith 
(London, 1627), although written as to the Bermuda chapters 
wholly at second hand, is highly important since for much of 
the period covered it is one of the only two existing source- 
books — the other being the unique Historye of the Bermudaes 
or Summer Islands, edited and nublished bv Sir J. H. Lefrov 
from an anonymous manuscript in the British Museum, which 
has since been identified as the work of Captain Butler, one 
of the earliest Bermuda C^vernors (London 1882). 

Description and Travel For the visitor who w^ants 
something more than the conventional guidebook, the most 
practical single volume available is Hayward's Bermuda Past 
and Present, already mentioned, for it is entertainingly writ- 
ten, and sheds many side lights on the historv, topography, 
manners and customs of the Bermudians. Glimpses of Life 
in Bermuda and the Tropics, by Margaret Newton (London. 
1897), is a pleasant record of personal impressions, supple- 
mented by the author's own sketches. Bermudian Days, by 
Mrs. Julia C. R. Dorr (New York, 1884). was in its day a 
popular little book, as was also Letters from Bermuda, bv 
Mrs. Jane Anthony Eam.es (Concord, N.H.. 187=;). In the 
Trades, the Tropics and the R'oarinn Forties, bv Lady Brassey 
(London, 1885) has some breezy, vivid chapters devoted to 
Bermuda with numerous glimpses of the social life in official 



40 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

upper circles. The Cruise of the Mont auk, by James McQuade 
(New York, 1884), records the impressions of a genial 
yachtsman, who met with characteristic Bermudian hospitality. 
See also Here, There and Everywhere, by Lord Frederick 
Hamilton (American Edition, 1921). 

Among famous writers who have contributed their word 
of comment on Bermuda must be mentioned Some Rambling 
Notes of an Idle Excursionist, by Mark Twain {Atlantic 
vols. 40, 41), the greater part of which, unfortunately, is a 
digression devoted to the outward voyage. Anthony Trol- 
lope's The West Indies and the Spanish Main (London) 
is a biased tirade of a man out of his element, who disliked 
everything and relieved his mind by saying so. At the 
opposite extreme stands the glowing tribute by William Dean 
Howell's A Bermudan Sojourn (Harper's Magazine, vol. 
124). Side lights on the life of the Islands in bygone days 
are afforded by the journal of the famous preacher George 
Whitefield (1748) ; and also by The Narrative of a Mission 
to Nova Scotia, Neiu Brunswick and the Somers Islands 
(1816), by another distinguished preacher, Joshua Marsden. 
Garrison life a half century ago is reflected in Bermuda: A 
Colony, a Fortress and a Prison, by a Field Officer (London, 
1857) ; and a companion picture of the prison life of a con- 
vict on Ireland Island is poignantly drawn by John Mitchel, 
the Irish patriot in Jail Journal, or Five Years in BrvtiMi 
Prisons (1854). Lastly, there is a recent article by William 
Howard Taft, The Islands of Bermuda in The National 
Geographical Magazine with special reference to the constitu- 
tional history of the islands. 

In the class of guidebooks pure and simple mention 
should be made of a pioneer little work, issued in 1852, by 
the Royal Gazette Press. In 1876 the late J. Matthew Jones 
published A Guide to Bermuda, wifih a Sketch of Its Natural 
History. Both of these books, long out of print, contain 
many valuable items of information. Later guidebooks in- 
clude, Stark's Illustrated Guide to Bermuda (first edition, 
Boston, 1885), and Bell's Beautiful Bermuda (first edition, 
1902). The most complete existing source of information, 
however, regarding local happenings is to be found in the 
files of the Bermuda Pocket Almanack, which appeared an- 
nually from 1844 to ipi6, and included a guide and a directory. 
Unfortunately the entire series is out of print, and even the 
Hamilton Public Library has no file of it. 

Geology and Natural Hisforv. The first scientific treat- 
ment of the origin and formation of these Islands, was a 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 41 

paper by Lieut. Richard J. Nelson, R.E., "On the Geology 
of the Bermudas" (transactions of the Geological Society 
of London. 2d Series, vol. 5, 1834), many of whose conclu- 
sions have been confirmed by later research. In recent times 
the Islands have been exhaustively studied by a number of 
eminent scientists, starting from the firm basis of the volu- 
minous Report on the Scientific Results of the Voyage of H.MS. 
"Challenger" During the Years 1873-76, the importance of 
which can hardly be overestimated, both as regards the con- 
formation and origin of the Islands themselves, and their 
fauna and flora. Three indispensilble studies of Bermudian 
geology are : A Visit to the Bermudas in March 1894, by 
Alexander Agassiz (Bull, of Museum of Compar. Zoology, 
Harvard, vol. 26) ; The Bermuda Islands, by Prof. Angelo 
Heilpriti (Philadelphia, 1889), with special reference to 
structure of coral reefs ; and The Bermuda Islands : Their 
Scenery, Climate, Production, Physiography, Natural History 
and Geology, by Prof. A. E. Verrill (Conn. Acad, of Arts 
and Sciences: Transactions, vols. 11 and 12), a voluminous 
and painstaking study, supplemented with a host of illustra- 
tions and maps. Of scarcely less importance are : Contribu- 
tions to the Natural History of the Bermudas, edited by J. 
Matthew Jones, and George Brown Goode (Bull, of U. S. 
National Museum, No. 25), which contain an admirable sum- 
mary of the geology by Prof. William North Rice, besides the 
following authoritative monographs : Botany, by (jen. Sir 
J. H. Lefroy; Mammals, by J. Matthew Jones; Birds, bv 
Capt. Saville G. Reid ; Reptiles, by Samuel Caiman; and 
Annelids, by Prof. A. T. Webster. The local botany has 
also been treated in Plants of Bermuda, by Oswald A. Reid 
(Bermuda: Royal Gazette Press, 1885); and Botany of 
Bermuda, by H. B. Small ___{ Bermuda : S. Nelmes, 1914). 
The voluminous Report on the Botany of the Bermudas, bv 
WilHam Bottling Hemsle^^ of the "Challenger" expedition is 
obtainable in a separate volume. Finall3% two little volumes 
of a more discursive and entertaining character for the gen- 
eral reader, deserve brief mention : The Naturalist in Ber- 
muda, by J. Matthew Jones (1859) ; Rough Notes and Memo- 
randa relating to the Natural History of the Bermudas, by 
John L. Hurdis (London, 1897). 

Fiction. It is surprising that a place so abundantly 
written up as Bermuda should have figured so comparatively 
seldom in fiction. Practically the only well known recent 
novel the scene of which is laid almost wholly in the Islands, 
is Mary Paget, by Minna Caroline Smith, a story laid in 



-42 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

the early colonization period, and introducing such high- 
life characters as the Countess of Bedford, William, Lord 
Paget, etc. The Bachelors, by William Dana Orcutt, is a 
story of a group of Bostonians who through several chapters 
are wintering in Benmiuda. Stolen America, by Isobel Floyd 
(Cassell's Sunshine Series, 1890), has been commended more 
for its graphic descriptions than for its plot. One of the 
earliest Bermudian novels is an anonymous tale entitled 
Murder by Mistake, published in All the Year Round for 
1864. Lastly, there is Parson Hue's Compass, by Anna Maria 
Clark, a story of Gov. Daniel Tucker's time and of the 
five men who in 1616 left the Islands in an open boat and 
succeeded in reaching the coast of Ireland (History p. XXVI). 
This is, however, scarcely accessible having been published 
in The Hospital Cottage Friend, Worcester, Mass., 1904. 

Poetry. Bermuda has been celebrated in verse by many 
of England's foremost poets. It is generally conceded that 
Shakespeare drew from it his inspiration for The Tempest. 
Andrew Marvell's Bermudas was first published in 1681, and 
John Donne's r/f<? Storm, describing the perils of the Ber- 
mudian reefs appeared still earlier in 1633. Edmund Waller 
is claimed as one of the Bermudian poets, even though the 
legend that he once visited the Islands was effectually shattered 
:by Sir J. H. Lefroy. The poet, however, whose name is last- 
ingly associated with Bermuda is Tom Moore, whose poem 
to "The Calabash Tree," and "Odes to Nea" form part of 
the warp and woof of local tradition. 

America's share in Bermudian verse begins with Philip 
Freneau, who visited Bermuda about 1772, and commemorated 
his six-months stay by a series of "Odes to Amanda." Then 
there is "Bermoothes ;' A Poem," by Lucy Larcom (Harper's, 
1878). More recently Larry Chittenden, the "Poet Ranch- 
man," has published a series of popular "Bermuda Verses," 
which have had wide circulation on souvenir post cards. 

There have been feW native Bermudian poets of any 
merit. The exceptions include the late Thomas E. Nelmes, 
who, although he left Bermuda early, included rnany Ber- 
mudian lyrics in The Lays of a Wanderer; and Miss Bessie 
Gray, whose best known poem is "The Song of the Keepers of 
the Western Gate." which took the prize offered by Good 
JJ^ords, London. 1902 and was later set to music by Lord 
Frederick Hamilton. The following are the opening lines : 

"Queen of the Seas. 

Thou hast given us the keys: — 
Proudly do we hold them, we, thy lovers, and akin. 

We will guard thy Water-Gate, 

Though we be not strong nor great, 
And our lives shall pav tha forfit ere we let the foeman in." 



ENTERING BERMUDA 

The traveler arriving at Bermuda on an ocean steamship, 
■whether from New York or Halifax, regularly approaches the 
Islands from the N. About lo miles N. of the visible coast, 
the vessel passes the North Rocks (p. 141) a picturesque group 
of projecting pinnacles of a submerged ledge, the highest being 
only 14 ft., marking the extreme northern limit of reefs and 
shoals which occupy the whole intervening space southward 
to the Islands themselves. Although these rocks may some- 
times be seen in clear weather by the incoming visitor, in point 
of fact they seldom are, since vessels usually keep well to the 
E. of the dangerous reefs ; and the first land seen is the N. E. 
coast of St. George's Island. 

The steamer continues S. along the E. coast of the Islands, 
until opposite the S. E. promontory known as St. David's Head, 
with the octagonal white tower of St. David's Lighthouse 
(p. 112), surmounting the height behind it. Here the pilot 
is taken aboard, and the vessel doubles on her course, north- 
ward through the A^arrows, which afford the only passage 
available for large steamers, through the outer reefs to St. 
George's and Hamilton Harbours. 

By special proclamation, dated Dec. 9, 1897, incoming vessels have 
the right of way through the Narrows; and outgoing vessels must wait 
until such incoming vessels have passed through and cleared the channel. 

Code of Signals. To the novice in ocean travel, there is 
a piquant mystery about the many-patterned signal flags that 
flutter up to the yard or mast-head as the vessel nears her 
harbor. Accordingly the following brief notes are here given 
to satisfy such justifiable curiosity. There are four Signal 
Stations in Bermuda: at Fort George (St. George's), Gibb's 
Hill (the Lighthouse), Mt. Langton (the Governor's residence) 
(PI. Ill — 15), and Ireland Island (the Dockyard) ; and the ap- 
proach, positions, movements, requirements and departure of all 
vessels are signalled. For such communications the Interna- 
tional Code of Signals is used, consisting of 18 flags, represent- 
ing the 18 consonants of the alphabet. Combinations of 2, 3 or 4 
of these flags are used as arbitrary signs for messages having 
the same meaning in all languages, and are deciphered by aid of 
the Code Book. 



44 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Vessels approaching and entering the channels are signalled 
on the yard in the following manner : When first observed 
by the look-out at any Signal Station, if a steamer she is 
signalled by a small ball, or if a sail, by a cross hoisted to 
one of the four ihalliards of the yard, according to which 
quarter of the compass the vessel is in. In case of a man- 
of-war a larger ball is hoisted. Beneath the symbol is hoisted 
a descriptive pennant, of which there are a dozen varieties, 
that of a battleship being a Yellow and Blue pennant; the 
Admiral's ship being a Red Btirgee; a British merchant 
steamer, a White and Red vertical pennant; a foreign mer- 
chant steamer, a Blue and Red vertical pennant; a yacht 
(steam or sailing). Blue Burgee, etc. To show the move- 
ments, requirements and anchorages of the vessels signalled 
certain flags of the International Code have had assigned 
to them certain local significance. Thus, Letter P (Blue with 
White center) means "Coming in St. George Harbour"; Let- 
ter iM (Blue White St. Andrew's Cross) means "Hamilton 
Harbour"; Letter R (Red, Yellow cross), "Murray's Anchor- 
age"; Letter Q (Yellow flag), "Wanting Health Officer"; and 
Letter J (Blue, White, Blue, horizontal), "Passing Islands" — 
colloquially known in Bermuda as the "Starvation Flag," be- 
cause it is flown when a ship is seen passing by and bringing 
no contribution to the Islands. 

There are also special meanings attached to these flags 
to denote the hours of closing the mails; and ships carrying 
regular mails fly a prescribed mail flag at the mast-head. 
That for the New York Mail, for example, is White, with 
Red St. Andrew's Cross (Letter V), and Tor Halifax Mail. 
White with Blue center (Letter S). There are also a pre- 
scribed code of signals relating to the position of the buoys 
in the Narrows Channel, which are hoisted at the mast-head 
at Fort George. For example, Letters K D signify "Stand on" 
(buoys in position), while Letters J B' mean "You are stand- 
ing into danger" (several buoys displaced). When a vessel is 
proceeding to sea, the Blue Peter (Letter P) will be hoisted 
at the mast-head and will remain flying until the vessel gets 
outside the reefs. 

The Course Around to Hajmilton — The ship's course 
through the Narrows and around the N. side of 
the Islands towards Hamilton Harbour, is marked by 
a series of large numbered buoys chequered in black and 
white. On our E. extends the submerged Sea Venture Flat. 
where Sir George Somers and his companions were wrecked 
in 1609 (p. 64). On our left we can now distinguish the 



ENTERING BERMUDA 45 

separate islands : St. Daznd's furthest S. ; next Paget Island, 
separated by St. George's channel, with Smith's Island visible 
through the opening; then little Higgs Island, divided from 
Paget by Stokes' Cut, and from St. George's Island on N. by 
Town Cut, the new channel into St. George's Harbour corti- 
pleted in 1917 (note the separate line of buoys marking this 
channel). 

"In the early morning, with a negro pilot on board, the vessel 
steams tortuously through the narrow channels among picturesque 
islands — some bald and wave-worn, and others crowned with snowy 
cottages nestling in groves of cedars, with weather-stained ruins and 
grim martello towers from which great cannon bristle — and rounding 
a point obruptly, comes at once in full view of the romantic port of 
St. George's with its' icirawded shipping, its white and yellow limestone 
houses, its tropdcal trees, with their great broad leaves and its many 
skififs and row-boats passing' to and fro, and the grand old hill behind, 
with its signal-station and frowning battery." — Stark's Guide to Ber- 
muda. 

We now skirt the E. coast of St. George's Island, about 
I mi. in extent, a high promontory known as Barrack Hill 
(p. ic^), which completely hides the old town of St. George's 
that lies behind it. Just N. of Town Cut is Buildings Bay 
(PI. III-T3), where, according to tradition, Sir Thomas Gates, 
in 1609, built the Deliverance, one of the two vessels which 
conveyed Admiral Somers and his party to Virginia. On Bar- 
rack Hill are quartered part of the Imperial military forces 
stationed at Bermuda, the remainder being at Prospect Bar- 
racks, further W. Three forts guard the E. coast of St 
George's : Fort Victoria, Fort Albert and Fort Catherine on 
the extreme N.W. promontory of St. Catherine Point. Mid- 
way on the heights is the long and conspicuously white 
Military Hospital (p. no). IRounding the Point we reach 
Murray's Anchorage, so-called from Admiral Murrav who. 
in 1797, had the first careful survey made of this anchorage, 
and finding it safe ordered the frigate Cleopatra to proceed 
here and anchor. 

From Murray's Anchorage the channel to Hamilton Har- 
bour skirts the entire N. coast of the Islands. Just beyond 
St. Catherine's Point is Tobacco Bay, with the huge Naval 
Tanks rising conspicuously behind it, used for the storage of 
water for naval vessels. Here was the landing place of the 
raiding party which, in 1775. captured the gunpowder which 
served such good purpose in the American Revolution (p. 102) 
Further on the weather-beaten Martello Tower, oart of a plan 
of fortifications built in 1822, surmounts the highest point at 
the W. end of St. George's Island. Here, between Ferry 
Point and Coney Island further \^^, is a narrow opening form- 
ing the only northern entrance to Castle Harbour (p. 114), a 



46 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

glimpse of which may be had as the vessel passes just opposite 
the opening. On Coney Island the one noticeable landmark 
is the gray stone tower of the old Salt House (p. 85), dating 
probably from about 1725, where salt from Turks Island was 
stored awaiting transhipment to New York. 

The one disappointing feature which many travelers have 
noted in approaching Bermuda along this northern side, is the 
prevailing grayness of the foliage as contrasted with the azure 
waters and sparkling white of the limestone roads and cottages. 
As seen from the steamer deck there is scarcely a hint of the 
luxurient tropic vegetation and riot of floral coloring popularly 
associated with Bermuda. There is only the ubiquitous native 
juniper, and a fringe of tamarisk, locally known respectively 
as "cedar" and "spruce." 

"We coasted along two of *he largest islands for about ten miles. 
. . . There is a thick population along here; their houses are uni- 
formly white, but uncomfortable looking for want of chimneys; the 
cooking house being usually a small detached building. The rocks, wher- 
ever laid bare are white or cream colored. The whole surface of the 
Islands is made up of hundreds of low hillocks, many of them covered 
with a pitiiul scraggy brush of cedars; and cedars are their only tree. 
The land not under wood is of a browni?h green color, and of a most 
naked and arid, hungry and thirsty visage. No wonder, for not a 
single stream, not one spring, rill of well, 'shes, trickles or bubbles in 
all the three hundred isles with their three thousand hills. — Heavens! 
What a burned and blasted country." — John Mitchel, "Jml Journal." 

Half a mile W. of Coney Island is the close cluster of 
white houses forming the village of Bailey's Bay (p. 89), the 
height behind it is Mount Wyndham (p. 89), once the site 
of Admiralty House because it commanded a view of both 
naval anchorages, at St. George's and at Grassy Bay. Two 
miles further W. is the flourishing little village of The Flatts, 
with the Hotel Frascati (p. 7) conspicuous on the shore. 
Flatts Inlet, the one opening from the sea into Harrington 
Sound (p. 85), is barely discernible on L. of hotel. Behind 
Flatts Village rises Tozmi Hill, the highest point of land in 
the Island, surmounted by an observation tower. The Peak. 
As we approach Spanish Point at the W. end of the main 
coast, we pass the thickly built up colony of North Village 
(p. 75) ; and rising behind and to the W., Mount Langton 
(P- 75), surmounted by the imposing and extensive structure 
of Government House, with its four towers, and the Signal 
Station just beyond. Still further W., on Clarence Hill 
(p. 67), is another conspicuous landmark, Admiraltv House 
(p. 67). 

Beyond Spanish Point the wide expanse of the Great 
Sound comes gradually into view, dotted over with manv 
islands, and encircled from L. to R. 'by the sweeping curve of 



ENTERING BERMUDA 47 

the western part of the main Island, continued by Somerset, 
Watford and Boas Islands, with Ireland Island at the extreme 
N. W. end. The steamer continues westward across the 
entrance to the Great Sound, to the anchorage at Grassy Bay, 
opposite the Ireland Island Doickyard. The most prominent 
building on the high ground at the extreme end of the Island 
is the Commissioners Hou^e (p. 135). The long jetty just S. 
of the point encloses the Camber (p. 135), an artificial basin 
containing the famous Floating Dock. At Grassy Bay the mail 
is taken ofiF, after which the steamer proceeds through the 
Sound toward Hamilton Harbour, passing, on L., the_ sub- 
merged Stag \Rocks, often so near that they are clearly visible. 
Directly ahead on the highest point of the southern shore, rises 
the tall shaft of Gihh's Hill Lighthouse (p. 127), the loftiest 
viewpoint on the Islands. As our course turns eastward, we 
pass, on L., Agar's Island (p. 74), once a pov/der magazine, 
and then, until 1917, an Aquarium. Just S. of Agar's Island 
we pass through Twv Rack Passage, and round Point Shares, 
when we get our first glimpse of Hamilton, the Capital of 
Bermuda, at the upper end of the Harbour, with the clock 
towers of the Cathedral and Sessions House dominating the 
town. The steamer passes within a few hundred feet of the 
Princess Hotel (p. 6) stretching along the water's edge east 
of Pitt's Bay, and just beyond swings around Albuoy Point 
almost within speaking distance of the Point Pleasant Hotel 
(p. 6) ; and a few minutes later reaches the wharf at the 
foot of Queen St. 



yHAMILTON AND VICINITY 

(Pembroke Parish) 

I. Within the City 

a. History, Topography, Etc. 

The City of Hamilton (PI. I), the present capital of 
Bermuda, is situated in Pembroke Parish, on the N. side 
of Hamilton Harbour (formerly Crow Lane). It dates 
from the passage, May 7, 1790, of an Act "for effecting a 
collection of trade at the west end of these Islands," which 
provided for the purchase of "certain lands lying on the 
N. side of the Lane Harbour," not exceeding one mile in 
length, and 150 acres in extent. The following June six 
Commissioners were appointed to survey, apportion and sell 
lots ; and Jan. i, 1798, was fixed as the date for opening, the 
new Port of Hamilton to trade. A tract of 144 acres, valued 
at i4,865 4s., was surveyed and divided into lots, of which 
a large number were sold at auction. An Act "to encourage 
the collection of trade at the towns of Saint George's and 
Hamilton, . . . and the incorporation of the latter," 
w^as unanimously passed by the Assembly June 29, 1793, and 
concurred in by the Council, and assented to by the Governor 
the same day. The actual incorporation and first municipal 
election took place in Hamilton Jan. 8, 1795, in the Customs 
House Warehouse (p. 53), now the City Hall. Accord- 
ingly, the centenary of the Act of Incorporation was cele- 
brated June 29, 1893, but that of the Corporation of Hamil- 
ton not until Jan. 8, 1895. The town was named in honor 
of Governor Henry Hamilton, during whose term of office 
(1788-94) it was created, and Daniel Tucker, one of the six 
commissioners, was elected Mayor. 

The Middle and Western Parishes, inconvenienced by having to 
resort to St. George's to transact general business, had for some years 
urged the establishment of a more central seat of Government. As 
early as 1784 a Mrs. Elizabeth Smith, one of the largest landed proprie- 
tors on Lane Harbour, consented to have her holdings laid out and 
offered at auction. On June 12, 1787, a Bill was introduced into the 
Assembly for the removal of the seat of Government to a more central 
situation; after which the matter languished until 1790. After the 
incorporation of Hamilton was accomplished, no active step for the 
transfer of the seat of Government was taken until the administration 
of Governor Sir James Cockburn (1811-19), who obtained the consent 
of the Home Government to the measure. The Legislature, having 
informed the Governor. Dec. 2, 1814, that temporary accommodations 
had been provided at Hamilton for the public offices, His Excellency 
appointed Jan. i, 1815, as the date of removal. On Dec. 22 the As- 
semblv passed a resolution granting to His Excellency the sum of £4000 
from the Public Treasury as a testimonial to the benefit conferred upon 



50 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

the Colony by this removal. The Assembly met for the first time at 
Hamilton, Jan. 23, 1815. 

The Corporation of Hamilton had vested in them the right of 
selling and conveying town lots within the acquired tract. The water 
privileges, however, have been reserved and form the chief source of 
the Corporation's income. In 1892 further rights were obtained by the 
purchase of the water privileges and franchises of the projecting land 
at the W. end of Hamilton known as Albuoy's Point (from a former 
owner, Nicholas Albuoy, who d. 1789). In March, 191 3, the Corporation 
acquired property known as the Washington estate, giving them control 
of the water front as far W. as Pitt's Bay, including certain privileges 
as to landing of merchandise and levying of tolls granted by Governor 
Cockburn in 1819. Other property held by the Corporation outside the 
original town limits, includes Par-la-Ville (p. 54) and Isle of White 
(p. 26) (PI. Ill— ^H6). 

In 1850 the number of buildings within town limits was approxi- 
mately 300; by 1900 the number had risen to about 500. Hamilton 
became a city by Act of Legislature in 1897, i" commemoration of 
Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. Electric lighting was introduced 
in 1908; and a sewage system completed north to Reid St. in 1912. 

Municipal Government. The Corporation oc Haiiiilton 
consists of a Mayor, three Aldermen and five Common Coun- 
cilmen, elected annually on the first Monday in Jan., or some 
other day in the following week, as appointed by the Corpor- 
poration. 

Topography. The city limits of Hamilton form approxi- 
mately a square half-mile, with the E. and W. boundaries 
inclining slightly N.W. from the true square. It is divided 
into fairly regular rectangular blocks by a half dozen streets 
tunning N. and S., and an equal number running E. and W., 
besides a few short intermediate streets and alleys. With the 
exception of Front and Queen Sts. they were known by num- 
bers for the first half-century, those parallel with Front St. 
being known respectively as Second, or Second Longitudinal 
St.; Third, or Third Longitudinal St., etc.; while those 
parallel to Queen St. were called First, Second, etc., Cross- 
Sireets, Queen St. itself having the alternative name of Sixth 
Cross-Street. The present street names largely date them^ 
selves, since they commemorate men locally prominent from 
the middle of the century onward. Reid, Elliott and Laffan 
Sts. commemorate respectively three popular Governors, Wil- 
liam Reid (1839-46); Charles Elliott (1853-54); Robert 
Michael Laffan (1877-82). Dundonald St. is named after Vice- 
Admiral Thomas. Lord Dundonald. stationed at Bermuda in 
1849 ; and Burnahy St. recalls Sir William Burnaby of Brough- 
ton Hall, Oxford, who after his marriage to the widow of 
Joseph Wood, made his home in Bermuda until his death in 
1853. Ewing St., only recently cut through above North St.. is 
a reminder that the old Ewing estate formed part of the city's 
northern boundary. 



WITHIN HAMILTON . 51 

b. Front Street 

Front St., following the water front, and earlier also 
icnow^n as Water St., extends from a little W. of Queen St. 
to a point just E. of King St., where it becomes East Broad- 
-cvay. This brief half mile embraces the city's financial center, 
markets, wholesale business, warehouses, Consular offices aijd 
steamship docks. 

"I myself should think it rich enough experience to spend my whole 
time lounging up and down the sloping streets; and if I had only one 
to choose, I almost believe I should choose Front Street, because of all 
the commercial streets of the world, it seems to me the fairest. It 
stretches along the Mole beside the harbour, a succession of shops and 
offices and warehouses, Avhich look a tropical ease, a patrician leisure, 
which it is so hard to associate with business that it is better not to 
try." — William Dean Hozvells. 

Facing No. i Front St. is the Bermuda Transportatio.i 
Co.'s ferry house, with service to Salt Kettle and Ireland 
Island (p. 133). Immediately adjoining on E. is the landing 
for private motor boats from Hotel Inz'erurie (p. /). 
Diagonally opposite, at No, 6 (Saltus Building), are the 
cable offices of Halifax and Bermudas Cable Co., and Direct 
West India Cable Co. (p. 20) ; also the Government Wireless 
Serznce (p. 20). At S.W. cor. of Queen St. is Apothecaries' 
Hall, established in 1847 by James Bell Heyl (d- 1905), a 
Philadelphian who, having come to Bermuda for his health, 
remained permanently, served as Vice-Consul of the United 
States, 1879-1903, and was a leading pioneer in developing the 
agricultural export trade. "Heyl's Corner" is a familiar 
meeting place and starting point. Opposite, at S.E. cor. of 
Queen St., is the recently erected Victoria Building containing 
the United States Consulate and city office of the Bermuda 
and West Atlantic Aviation Co. (p. 15). 

The Victoria Building occupies the site of the old Frith's Building, 
the lower part of which was used by the Customs Department- and the 
Legislative Council met in the upper rooms until the completion of 
the Public Buildings in 1836. 

No. 18 is the local office of the Furness Bermuda Line. 
Nos. 19-20 are occupied by Trimingham Bros., Bermuda's 
largest department store with a recently opened annex in the 
rear, on Reid St. The modern three-story Miles Building 
occupies the site of Burch's House where Bermuda's first 
Post-mistress, Mrs. Elizabeth Tucker, kept the Post Office. 
At No. 34 are the City Offices, including The Corporation 
Office and Revenue Office. 

On the water side of Front St.. extending from Queen 
St. half-way to Burnaby St.. is the landing wharf for the 
Furness Line vessels and other large steamships. The three 



52 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

big, ungainly iron sheds where luggage is examined and freight 
temporarily stored, were erected in the late seventies at a 
cost of £4,000, including cement floorings and storage tanks. 
The wharfage rates form the chief source of the city reve- 
nues (p. 3). Beyond the sheds is the new steamship pier 
now [1922] in course of construction; a three-story structure 
where passengers can land directly from the upper decks. 

Burnaby St., the first cross-street E. of Queen St., ascends 
a steep grade, popularly called Burnaby Hill, or "Tower 
Hill," from Nelmes' Tower, on the 'Reid St. cor. Midway, 
on R, is The Green Shutters, a popular tavern where excellent 
English ale is on draught. 

Continuing on Front St. we reach at No. 48 The Mid- 
Ocean (p. 34), Bermuda's youngest newspaper, founded in 
191 1 by S. S. Toddings, for 40 years owner and editor ol" 
the Bermuda Colonist. No. 49, the Bank of Bermuda, Ltd., 
founded in 1889. No. 50 is the Bank of N. T. Butterfield 
& Son, Ltd., Bermuda's oldest banking house, but not incor- 
porated until 1904. Adjoining on E. is the Royal Bermuda 
Yacht ^ Club (p. 27), organized in 1845, and privileged to 
style itself "Royal" by special permission of Queen Victoria. 
It has enjoyed the patronage successively of the Queen's Con- 
sort, Prince Albert, the Duke of Edinburgh, and since 1901, 
the Prince of Wales, now George V. On E. cor. of Chancery 
Lane is the site of the old Coffee House, erected about 1794, 
where the Royal Gazette (p. 33) was first published. The 
Atlantic Phoenix Lodge, the oldest Masonic Lodge in Ber- 
muda, met here after its removal from Flatts Village in 1810, 
until the present Masonic Hall fp. 50) was completed in 
1848. The next block, from Parliament St. to Court St., and 
extending through to Reid St., is occupied by the building and 
grounds of — 

The Public Buildings, a two-story rectangular structure 
of native limestone, on the Georgian order of architecture, 
with a central portico consisting of two pairs of Ionic 
columns rising through the two stories. Cornerstone laid 
May 8, 1833; building completed, 1836. It contains the Cus- 
toms Department, the Council Chamber and Offices of the 
Governor, Colonial Secretary and Clerk of the Council. Of- 
fice hours, 10 A. M. to 4 P. M. 

The ground floor is now wholly given over to the Customs Depart- 
ment, including offices of the Receiver General and Comp^l^oller of 
Customs and Navigation. The Public Library, formerly occupying the 
E. rooms, was removed to Par-la-Ville in Jan., 1917 Op. 54). On 
second floor. W. room, is the Council Chamber, where the Legislative 
Council, the upper branch of the Colonial Legislature, and also His 



WITHIN HAMILTON 53 

Majesty's Executive Council hold their meetings. Here the Governor 
prorogues and convenes the Legislature. 

The Chamber contains portraits in oil of King George III and 
Queen Charlotte; an engraving of Sir George Somers; and photographs 
of Queen Victoria, Albert, Prince Consort; Albert Edward, Prince of 
Wales; King George V. and Queen Mary. 

On E. side of hall is the Colonial Secretary's office. Through this 
office all correspondence between the Bermuda Government and the 
Colonial Office in England is conducted; all departments of the Colonial 
Government report to this office; and all communications with the Gov- 
ernor must come through the Colonial Secretary. The Governor, how- 
ever, has an office for transaction of official business, adjoining the 
Council Chamber on N. side. 

In the surrounding grounds, near S.E. cor. of the Public 
Buildings, is the Monument to Governor Reid: an obelisk of 
gray granite surmounting a polished granite block, with bronze 
medallion portrait, and inscription ; 

"Erected A. D. MDCCCLXI, by authority of the Legislature, in 
grateful Remembrance of the Public Services and private Worth of 
Major General Sir William Reid, K.C.B.. Governor of Bermuda from 
1839-1846. Obit 31 October, 1858, aged 67." 

Near the monument are two cedar trees, each with a stone marker 
inscribed, "This cedar was planted by H. R. H. Prince Alfred, 9 May, 
1 86 1." On Front St. side of grounds, about midway near fence, is the 
Corner-stone of the proposed Bermuda War Memorial, laid Oct. i, 1920, 
by H. R. H. Edward Albert, Prince of Wales. The silver trowel, 
especially designed for the ceremony, was made from Crimean War 
Medals, British and Turkish. 

On Parliament St., overlooking the Public Buildings grounds, is the 
Allenhurst (p. 6), a small family hotel, with attractive outlook over 
the harbour. 

The City Hall, at S.E. cor. of Front and Court Sts., is 
an ancient looking structure of native stone dating from 
1794, and originally known as the Customs House Warehouse. 
Here, on Jan. 8, 1795, the first Municipal election took place, 
the proprietors of town lots meeting at 9 o'clock in the even- 
ing, in accordance with a notice published by the Commis- 
sioners in the Bermuda Ga::ette, and ofifering the further in- 
ducement : 

"It is at the same time proposed to dine together on the premises 
on turtle, with this remark that each person take with him every other 
necessity to make himself comfortable." The ground floor of the City 
Hall is now occupied by the Engine House of the city Fire Department. 

c. Queen Street 

Queen St., extending two squares N. from Front to 
Church St., and forming in part (N. to Par-la- Ville) the 
W. municipal boundary, constitutes the chief shopping center 
and tourists' headquarters. It contains a majority of the city 
hotels, places of amusement, photograph and curio shops. 



54 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Proceeding iN. from Heyl's Corner we reach, oo R., Reid 
St., with the Phoenix Drug Store on S. cor., and The Yankee 
Store, the largest Souvenir shop, on N. cor. Opposite, on 
W. side of Queen St., is the Little Green Shop (specialty, 
Scotch and Irish homespuns) ; and just beyond, facing Reid 
St., the grounds of Par-la-Ville. 

Par-la- Ville (PI. I — B4), a public park containing the 
Natural History Museum and Public Library, is situated 
on the W. side of Queen St., facing Reid St., and lies just out- 
side the original city limits (see p. 49), the western city bound- 
ary being marked by the famous Rubber Tree on R. of entrance. 
Tt was formerly the residence of the Perot family, and at one 
time housed the Post Office, the late William Bennett Perot 
haviing held the office of Postmaster for a long period. The 
Corporation of Hamilton acquired the property after Mr. 
Perot's death in 187 1. 

The Perots are one of several French Huguenot families who found 
their way to Bermuda via New York. William Bennett Perot was gi-eat- 
grandson of the emigrant Jacques Perot; and his grandfather, Jacques, 
was baptized in New York, in the Eglise du St. Esprit, May 26, 1714. 

Par-la-Ville Gardens. Visitors should not fail to explore 
the grounds which lie mainly behind the old mansion and con- 
tain many fine specimens of tropical trees and plants. Note 
especially the gigantic *India Rubber Tree, Ficus elastica, sent 
to Mr. Perot from Essequibo and dating from 1847, which has 
attained a height of over 45 ft. and an expanse of over 70 ft. 
Opposite, on L. of path, is a fine West India Laurel, Prnnus 
ofcidentalis. Other notable specimens (all carefully labeled) 
include : Sapodilla ; Rose Apple ; Pimento Allspice ; West Indian 
Plum ; Mango ; Li-che ; Napoleon's Plume ; Mammee Apple ; 
Pigeon Berry (Duranta plumieri) ; Poinciana (Poinciana 
Regia) ; Eranthemum (West Indies). From a stone platform 
reached by steps at S.W. cor. of grounds, there iis a fine view 
of Hamilton harbor. 

The Museum of Natural History occupies the ground floor 
of the old dwelling, and is open daily (Sundays and holidays 
excepted) from 10 A'.M. to 6 P.M., free of charge. 

History. The Bermuda Natural History Society was founded in 
1 90 1 at the suggestion of Prof. Charles L. Bristol of New York Uni- 
versity, with three definite objects: i. The foundation of a museum to 
illustrate the natural history of Bermuda; _ 2. The establishment of a 
biological station, to afford visiting scientists opportunities for study 
and research; 3. The building of an aquarium. Through the co-opera- 
tion of the Trustees of the Public Library and Museum, who had in 
their custody a nucleus of objects of natural history, the use of the 
Par-la-Ville building was obtained through legislative enactment, special 
grants being made in 1902 for the rental and equipment of the building. 

In 1903 Prof. Bristol secured the co-operation of Prof. E. L. Marks, 
head of the Zoological Department of PTarvard, and a beginning was 



WITHIN HAMILTON 55 

made of the Biological Station, with temporary headquarters at the 
Flatt's dp. Tj), where a party of :^i professors and students arrived 
at the Frascati in July. This temporary laboratory was opened annually 
with the exception of one season; and in 1907 it was found that Agar's 
Island (PI. Ill — G4; p. 74), which was the property of the War Depart- 
ment, and used as a powder magazine, could be secured for a permanent 
biological station and aquarium. The aquarium was open to the public 
Jan. I, 1908, and remained one of Bermuda's chief attractions until 
closed in 1917. 

The Museum collection suffers from bad lighting and lack 
of adequate labels. In the main central room are three table 
cases and three wall cases, on the E., S. and W. walls respec- 
tively. The first table case contains a well classified collection 
of Bermuda Sea Shells, many of them almost microscopic. The 
Central Case contains corals and crustaceans, including : Star 
Lobster, Palinurus gtittatus, ta^cen near St. David's Island ; 
Spider Crab, Leptopodia sagittaria, from Castle Harbor; Craw- 
fish {scyllaridae) ; Land Crab, Cardiosoma, from Hungry Bay; 
Finger Sponge, SpinoseUa sororia (showing a parasite anemone, 
Parazoanthus parazyticus) ; Branch Coral, Oculina varicosa 
(rare) ; Plate Coral, Agaricia fi'agilis, from the Great Sound. 
Third Table Case, more Sea Shells. 

The Western Wall Case contains a small but interesting 
collection of the Birds of Bermuda: 

Note, of the birds common in Bermuda: (L. to R.) First Section: 
2. American Crow, Corvus aniericanus (resident); 5. Water Thrush, 
Seinrus noveboracensis (regular winter visitor: "Throughout October 
and November there is hardly a Mango swamp whence its sharp but 
musical 'chip' may not be heard," Reid) ; 8, European Goldfinch, Carduelis 
elegans (resident; introduced about 1885); 9. Cat Bird, Galeoscoptes 
carolinensis (resident and abundant) ; 10. Blue Bird, Sialia sialis (resi- 
dent) ; II. White-eyed Vireo, Vireo noveboracensis ("The smallest and 
one of the commanest resident Bermuda birds, locally termed 'Chick- 
choo-willio,' or 'Chick-of-the-village,' " Reid); 12. Redbird or Cardinal, 
C. cardinalis (resident and abundant). 

Second Section: i. Black-crowned Night Heron, Nycticorax naevius 
(frequent visitor) ; 4. American Robin, Meriila migratoria (winter 
visitor: "By no means common but occasionally arrives singly or in 
small flocks," Reid) ; 5 .Belted Kingfisher, Ceryle alcyon ("These birds 
arrive regularly about the middle of September, and are to be found in 
all the Mangrove swamps, creeks and ponds. They disappear about the 
middle of April," Reid): 8. Bob White or Virginia Quail, Colinus vir- 
ginianus (resident); 9. Dusky Shearwater or Pemblyco, Piiffinus obscurus 
(regular visitor in March and April, to breed; identified by Mr. Hurdis 
in 1849 with extinct "Cahow," found in countless thousands by the 
early colonists, and killed off so recklessly for food that they were well- 
nigh exterminated by 1626. The recent discovery, however, of fossils 
in Crystal Cave (p. 90) seems to prove that the Cahow was quite a 
different type of bird). 

Third Section: 4. Bermuda Ground Dove, Columbigallina P. ber- 
mudiana (resident); 5. Kittiwake Gull Risa tridactyla ("Not uncom- 
mon but irregular in its visits which occur between Januarv ard 
March," Reid); 6. Yellow-billed Tropic Bird, Phaethon flartrostris 
(regular visitor from February to October). 



56 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

South and East Wall Cases: Chiefly geological exhibits, although 
one section is devoted to Marine Fauna, including a small Octopus. 
The more noteworthy specimens include: Several fossil eggs, embedded 
in limestone and found respectively at a depth of 4, 15, and 20 feet 
below the surface; Skull, wing and leg-bone of Sooty Shearwater, 
found in Bassett's Cave, 1875; Stratified Coralline Rock — identical in 
character with the surface formation of the present day — raised from 
50 feet below low-water mark in dredging a basin for Bermuda docks; 
Specimen of sand consolidated by infiltration — from a sand-pit at base 
of ascent to Mt. Langton from Pembroke Alarsh. 

On the East Wall is a cast in lead of the famous Inscrip- 
tion on Spanish Rock (PI III — M6; p. 96). taken Feb. 22, 1893, 
by the late Thomas Scott Cunningham, of Chicago, and pre- 
sented by him to the Bermuda Public Library and Museum. 

In the small adjoining North Room is a collection of 
Bermuda Fishes preserved in jars of alcohol. Between lack 
of labels and loss of color, they are disappointing to the 
average visitor. 

The Public Library, open daily (excepting Sundays and 
holidays) from 10 A. M. to i P. M. and from 2:30 to 8 P. M., 
occupies the second story of Par-la-ViUe, and is reached by 
an outside stairway, at S. E, cor., leading to the upper veranda. 
It is a free reference library and reading room ; circulating 
privileges are open to all inhabitants and properly accredited 
tourists upon payment of a yearly fee of 6 shillings, or a life 
subscription of £2, entitling the subscriber to take out two 
books and one magazine at a time. 

The Library dates from 1839, having been established at the 
suggestion of Governor Reid (p. 53). It formerly occupied the E. 
room on the ground floor of the Public Building. It was removed to 
its present home in Jan., 19 17. Much of its success and usefulness 
is undoubtedly due to the long services of Sir S. Brownlaw Gray, as 
Honorary Secretary and Treasurer from July i, 1859, until his resig- 
nation on Aug. 21, 1902, 

The Librarian's desk is in the central room, facing 
entrance. In the N. room are the book stacks, open to the 
public. The magazine and reading room is on the S, side, 
and opening from it, at S. W. cor,, is a smaller study con- 
taining reference shelves and a collection of portraits (engrav- 
ings, old prints, photogravures, etc.) of former Governors 
of the Colony. 

West Wall, N. cor.: i. Henry Hamilton, Governor 1788-94 (after 
whom the city of Hamilton was named). Presented by Howland Pell 
in 1906; 2. Admiral Sir George Somers; 3. Facsimile of Spanish Rock. 

North Wall, i. Chief Justice Darrell; 2. Sir Henry St. George Ord, 
Governor, 1861-64; 3. Francis Jones, Pres. of the Council, 1744-47, 
1751-55, 1763-64; 4. Edward Newdegate Newdegate, Governor, 1890-92; 
5, Sir Thomas Gore-Browne, Governor, 1870-71. 

South Wall. I, Thomas C. Lyons, Governor, 1893-95; 2, Sir J. H. 



WITHIN HAMILTON 57 

Lefroy, Governor, 1871-77; 3. Lieut. Gen. T. L. Galwey, Governor, 
1882-88. 

West Wall, S. cor.: i. Freeman Murray, Governor, 1860-61; 
2. Sir Robert Michael Laffan, Governor, 1877-82. Presented by Lady 
Laffan. 

Beyond Par-la-Ville, on L., is the Sea Gardens, a spe- 
cialty shop for coral, sea- fans, shells, etc., and just be3^ond, 
The Victory, a small popular-priced moving picture house. 
Opposite, is the photographic studio of iV. E. Lusher & 
Sun, the name being a unique witticism in trade-marks 
that is known on two continents, Mr. lAisher being the 
first photographer to give the sun public credit for its co- 
operation! Just beyond is the Nezv Windsor Hotel (p. 6), 
first opened in 1889, and largely patronized by Canadians. 
An extensive Palm Garden in rear, reached through hotel 
or by lane from Church St. ; outdoor restaurant, private al- 
coves, etc. Further N.. on same side, is the Colonial Hotel, 
(p. 6), and beyond, at S. E. cor. of Church St. is Mechanics' 
Hall, the home of the Bermuda Mechanics' Beneficial Associa- 
tion, the cornerstone of which was laid April 9, 1850, with 
Masonic ceremonies under guidance of the Atlantic Phoenix 
Lodge. In 1900 the jubilee of the Association was celebrated 
with a banquet, and special services in Pembroke Parish 
Church. Until the completion of the Colonial Opera House in 
1908, the auditorium in the upner part of Mechanics' Hall was 
the only available building in Hamilton for concerts, theatrical 
performances and similar entertainments. 

Opposite, on W. side of Queen St., is the American House 
(p. 6), first oipened in 1887. remodeled in 1901, and con- 
siderably enlarged in 1908. It has been under the manage- 
ment of the present proprietor, Mr. A. Paschal, for 33 years. 

Closing Queen St., on the N., with unrivaled advantage 
of position, stands the Hamilton Hotel (p. 5), the oldest 
of Bermuda hotels in the modern sense of the word, and in 
its present improved form, easily the largest, with accommo- 
dations for over 600 guests. For approximately half a cen- 
tury it was a dominant factor in Bermuda's development as 
a tourist resort, and its history is closely associated with the 
Island's prosperity. 

The Hamilton Hotel which is the property of the Corporation of 
Hamilton, had its inception in a vigorous message by the Mayor, Henry 
J. Tucker (1851-80), to the Corporation. Feb. 27, 1851, in pursuance of 
which a committee was appointed, and the present site chosen on recom- 
mendation of John N. D. Johnson, Royal Engineers Dept., Ireland 
Island. The foundation stone was laid, Aug. 19, 1852, by Gov. Elliott, 
who warmly supported the project as being "necessary to the prosperity 
of the town and required by its commercial and geographical position." 



58 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

A public dinner marked the opening of the hotel April 21, i863» 
The Civil War in America, however, together with irregular steamship 
service, made the first years of the venture unprofitable. In Jan., 1874, 
the Quebec Steamship Co. established weekly service betw. New York 
and Bermuda; and one of its earliest passengers was the late Walter 
Aiken (1831-93), of Franklin, N. H., manufacturer and inventor, and 
best known for having built the cog-wheel railway and Summit House 
on Mt. Washington, both of which he personally supervised until his- 
death. Mr. Aiken took a long lease of the Hamilton Hotel which pros- 
pered under his management. Extensive additions were made in 1886, 
In 1890 a passenger elevator was added, the first one in the Islands. In 
1898, the first electric light plant in Bermuda was installed by the 
Brigham Electric Co., of Boston, with a capacity of 500 i6-candle power 
lamps. The installation was completed in time for the reception given, 
in 1898, to Admiral Sampson and officers of the U. S. Squadron. 

From 1905 onward there was a growing demand for more ample 
hotel accommodations, and elaborate plans were made for a huge modern 
structure on the Par-la-Ville property. The project was approved by 
the Corporation and ratified by popular vote. This plan, however, fell 
through, and an alternative project was carried out, in accordance with 
which the Hamilton Hotel Co., Ltd., bought out the interests of the 
heirs of Walter Aiken, acquired the site of the original Wesleyan 
Church (p. 63), facing Queen St., and altered and enlarged the old 
hotel building almost beyond recognition. 

The new, seven-story structure, with its entrance portico rising 
through three stories, stands directly on the sidewalk line of Church St., 
its roof even with that of the old building, setting some 50 ft. back from 
the street above its palm-crowned terrace. The new portion, supervised 
by the locali architect, W. D. Wilkinson, from plans by /. H. Besarick 
of New York, contains 92 new bed-rooms and 70 bath-rooms. The 
acquisition of a water source known as Master's Well gives a practically 
unlimited water supply; while the new tanks afford a storage capacity 
of 175,000 gallons. 

Wesley St., the short street running N. from the W. end 
of Church St., behind the American House, preserves the 
memory of the old Methodist Chapel, the first place of public 
worship erected within the town limits. The property was 
acquired by the Corporation in 1897, for £3000, for ultimate 
extension of the hotel. 

d. Reid Street 

Reid St., or Second St., extending from Queen to King 
St., contains shops and tea-room^s, offices of some of the lead- 
ing physicians and dentists, and a few good lodging-houses. 
Midway between Queen and Burnaby Sts.. N, side, is the 
Kcnzvood (p. 6), a quiet family hotel, run on the European 
as well as on the American plan. Nearby are Reid Hall 
and the Tucker Building (p. 8; furnished rooms only). On 
S. side, diagonally opposite the Kenwood, is the Dinghy Club 
(p. 27, 28), the home of Bermuda's most characteristic 
acquatic sport, 

"The imposing magnitude of its name 'The Royal Hamilton Ama- 
teur Dinghy Club,' is in inverse ratio with the size of the boats of this 
organization; the maximum length permitted being fourteen feet one 



WITHIN HAMILTON 59 

inch. Ordinarily these races are quite exciting, and attended with 
ludicrous mishaps. The peculiar rig, with the mast set forward, renders, 
the dinghy liable to take headers into the waves and go under if the 
^ea should be running high." — Crtiise of the Montauk. 

Facing the Tucker Building is the home of the Royal 
Gazette and Colonist (p. 34), formed by consoHdation Jan.i, 
1921, of the Royal Gazette, established in 1828, and the Ber- 
muda Colonist, dating from 1866. The rooms of the Bermuda 
Chamber of Commerce are in the Colonist building. 

At N.W. cor. Burnaby St., in former offices of the Royal 
Gazette, is the Woman's Work Exchange, established 1890. 
The Exchange runs a tea-room at reasonable prices. Diago- 
nally opposite, at S.E. cor., is "The Tower," a sort of general 
emporium, including house furnishings, sporting goods, and 
a circulating library (p. 30). 

"I wanted a scrap-basket, a sponge, and divers other things. 'Go 
to The Tower,' said somebody. 'They sell everything there from a pin 
to a piano.' " — Julia C. Dorr, Benuiidian Days. 

East of The Tower, S. side, is the central office of the 
Bermuda Telephone Co.; and diagonally opposite is the former 
Gymnasium of the Bermuda Athletic Association, now the 
Armory of the Bermuda Volunteer Rifle Corps. A little be- 
yond, N. side, is Masonic Hall, built of native limestone on 
the colonial order ; cornerstone laid with Masonic honors, Dec. 

27. 1847. 

This is the home of Atlantic Phoenix Lodge, No. 224, "the charter 
of which is dated just two days later than that of Lodge St. George, 
being 9th Aug., 1797, though it is believed that the former Lodge held 
the 'first meeting, and the right of precedence is often laughingly con- 
tested at Masonic banquets" (Stark's Guide). Before completion of 
Masonic Hall, meetings were held. The Hall is' also used for meetings 
of various other Masonic Lodges both under the Grand Registry of 
England and of Scotland. 

Facing Reid St., N, side, and occupying the old square 
from Parliament to Church St., are the grounds and building 
of the Sessions House. Facing the grounds, on W. side of 
Parliament St., is the old Jail, now completely hidden by the 
new jail building, completed in 1894, and by a block of Gov- 
ernment buildings, dated from 1897. and containing the Police 
Station, Police Court, Government Surveyors Office, and other 
Departmental Offices for the Colonial Government. Opposite, 
in the S.W. cor. of the Sessions House grounds, is the Post 
Office, completed in 1870 and recently enlarged. 

The postal business of Bermuda was condticted by private enter- 
prise until the passage in 181 2, of an Act establishing post-offices in 
Hamilton, the Flatts and St. George. The Hamilton post-office, originally 
on Front St., on the site now occupied by Miles' market, removed first 
to Par-la-Ville House, and later to the small building erected for it at 
S. cor. of Par-la-Ville grounds, where it remained until comr 



6o RIDER'S BERMUDA 

pletion of present building (for pastal rates, parcel post, etc., see 
p. 1 8). The post-office corner is the starting point for the omnibuses 
to St. George's and Somerset. 

The Sessions House, occupying a commanding position 
on the upper side of the grounds bounded by Church St., is 
a two-story building, with a colonnade on the S. front, and 
a lofty clock tower forming Hamilton's most conspicuous land- 
mark. The main building, dating from 1815, was on the 
American colonial, or "Early New England" order; but the 
recent additions have transformed its appearance to a semblance 
of Florentine Renaissance. These additions had their incep- 
tion in an Act passed in 1887, making provision for a perma- 
nent memorial of Queen Victoria's Jubilee, including the clock 
tower, on W., and smaller tower on E. of the south front of 
the Sessions House, together with the east, south and west 
arcades. They were completed in Sept., 1903. ('PI. I-D3). 

The towers and arcades were reproduced from designs sketched 
out by Laeut.-Gen. Sir T. L. J. Gallwey, then' Governor of Bermuda, and 
are built of Bermuda limestone, with red terra cotta facings. The 
doorway in the East Tower forms the new entrance to the Hause of 
Assembly, situated on the second floor. 

The clock in the Jubilee clock tower, made by Gillett & Johnson, of 
Croyden, England, has four dials, each 7 ft. in diameter, and faced 
with opal glass to facilitate illumination. The hours are struck on a 
bell weighing i^Y-z dwt., giving forth the note E. It was started Dec. 
31, 1893. 

The ground floor of the Sessions House is used for ses- 
sions of the Supreme Court, which holds a Criminal Session 
and a Civic Session twice yearly, for Easter Term and 
Michaelmas Term, the Criminal Sessions commencing on the 
3d Monday in May and Oct., and the Civil Sessions on the 
2d Monday after close of the Criminal Session. 

The Assembly Chamber was refitted in 1887, and refur- 
nished in 1891. The fine old paneled ceiling of cedar wood 
was temporarily removed during repairs to the roof, and the 
present whitew^ash finish hastily installed in preparation for 
the visit of the Prince of Wales in iq20. On the W. wall 
of the Assembly Chamber hang life-sized portraits of King 
George HI and Queen Charlotte, by Sir Thomas Lanrrcncc. 
believed to have been presented to the Town of Hamilton by 
Governor Cockburn (1817-19). 

These portraits, badly damaged from long neglect were unearthed 
about 1895, and sent to England for restoration. The new lower margin, 
some 10 inches wide, is so adroitly joined as to baflle close inspection. 

Both the Assembly and the Court Rooms may be seen 
upon application to attendant during ofiice hours, 10 A.M. to 
4 P.M. on week days. Visitors should remember that the 



WITHIN HAMILTON 6i 

Bermuda Assembly constitutes the oldest Legislative branch 
of any of the English colonies. 

e. Church Street 

Church St., formerly Third St., is appropriately named, 
having on it the three oldest and most important churches in 
Hamilton. From Queen to Burnaby St., the upper side is 
occupied by the Hamilton Hotel (p. 57), and the lower side 
by shops. At S.W. cor. of Burnaby St. is the Imperial Hotel 
(>>. 6). In the next hlock E., on the highest ground of 
Church Street Hill, N. side, stands — 

The Bermuda Cathedral, the most important church edi- 
fice in Bermuda, and architecturally the most interesting struc- 
ture in the Island. It was built in 1886- 1905, on the site of 
an earlier edifice, Trinity Church, the general plan of which 
it follows on an enlarged scale. The material is mainly se- 
lected native limestone, and the style is Middle English, from 
designs by Hay & Henderson, Edinburgh. 

History. , When Hamiltoin was first established the only accessible 
Episcopal church was the Parish church of St. John the Evangelist 
(p. 71). As the population ncreased there was a growing demand 
for a new church within the town. Accordingly, on March 28, 1844, 
a public meeting was held in the Town Hall, and resolutions adopted 
for the erection of a Chapel-at-Ease, to be known as Trinity Church. 
A corner lot opposite the present Presbyterian church was purchased 
from Richard Darrell, then Mayor of Hamilton; and there, on July r, 
1844, the corner-stone of the proposed new church was laid. The site, 
however, was found undesirable and the present site at Burnaby and 
Church Sts. was secured from the Corporation for the nominal sum of 
£50. Designs, on the Early English order, were prepared by James 
Cranston, of Oxford; and the building supervised by George Groz'e, 
C.E., who erected the Lighthouse on Gibb's Hill (p. 127). The cap of 
Church St. had to be leveled, and foundations carried to a considerable 
depth because of fissures in the strata. In the course of erection the 
S.E. pier of the tower settled seriously, producing large cracks, and 
William Hay, subsequently architect of the Cathedral, was called in 
consultation. The church was completed in May, 1869, at a cost of 
£12,000. It was destroyed by fire, believed to be of incendiary origin, 
Jan. 27, 1SS4. Nothing was saved but a pair of brass lamps. 

Steps for the restoration of Trinity Church were promptly 
taken, and a Building Committee of fifteen was organized 
May 31. An entirely new building of much enlarged capacity 
was decided upon, because of the increasing number of winter 
visitors, and the growing importance of Bermuda as a Naval 
Station. Demolition of the ruins was begun Tan. 6, 1885 ; 
and foundation stone laid by Bishop Jones, May i, 1886. 
Damage from a tornado in Nov., 1890. delayed progress by 
fully three years. The final cap-stone, on N.E. pinnacle, 
completing the tower, was laid by Gov. Stewart, May 9, 1905. 
The chancel and transept were finished about 191 1. By Act 



62 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

of Legislature, 1894, the restored Trinity Church was con- 
stituted The Bermuda Cathedral ; and the Nave was dedicated 
on St. Thomas Day that same year. 

The plan of the Cathedral is a Roman cross, the extreme dimen- 
sions oif which are: length, 176 ft. 9 in.; width, 88 ft. 6 in.. The Nave 
is 100 ft. long by 33 ft. wide (or including side aisles 62 ft.), and 44 ft. 
high; the Transepts/ are 28 ft. 3 in. long, and 32 ft. 6 in. wide; Choir 
44 ft. 6 in. long. The inside height to apex of Nave and Choir, is yz 
ft. As originally planned the tower was to be surmounted by a spire, 
with a total height of 120 ft. The spire, however, was abandoned as 
unsafe, owing to the prevalence of high winds. As finished the tower 
measures 144 ft. from ground level, and affords an admirable view of 
the surrounding countrj\ Admission, is. 

The native limestone employed is all from the Par-la-Ville quarry, 
Hamilton,- considered the best in Bermuda. The tower piers are of 
Wallace, N. S., freestone; and the dressings in the upper part of the 
tower are of buff Indiana limestone. The most striking feature of the 
interior is the series of monolithic columns of polished red Peterhead 
granite, supporting the arches of Caen stone betw. Nave and aisles. 
These columns are 9 ft. high, and 20 in. in diameter, and are 
grouped in pairs on bases of Aubigney stone from Normandy. The 
windows are all double lancets, both in aisles and clerestory, and are 
faced with Caen stone, intermixed with native limestone. 

The Reredos, a memorial to the late Alexander Ewing Outerbridge 
and wife, was designed by Harold O. Tarbolton. The altar piece 
consists of a replica of Andrea del Sarto's Holy Family, now in the 
Pitti Palace, Florence. The replica was discovered by Mr. Tarbolton 
some years ago in an old mansion house near Montrose, Scotland. 

The Bishop's Throne, a memorial to Mrs. Llewellyn Jones, is an 
exact reproduction of the Throne in the Cathedral of St. John's, New- 
foundland. It consists of a canopied seat about 13 ft. high, in late 
fourteenth century Gothic. Designed by Johfi Oldrid Scott, F.S.A., 
and executed by Harry Hems & Sons of Exeter. 

The Pulpit and Lectern are copied by permission from St. Giles, 
Edinburgh. The pulpit has six panels of Caen stone carved by /. Massey 
Rhind: (L. to R.) i. "For I was an hungered and ye gave me meat"; 
2. "I was thirsty and ye gave me drink"; 3. I was a stranger and ye 
took me in"; 4. "Naked and ye cJothed me"; 5. "I was sick and ye 
visited me" ; 6. "I was in prison and ye came unto me." 

The Font, at S.W. cor. of Nave, the gift of the Sunday School 
children, is of pure Carrara marble, and various colored marbles, resting 
on a base of Caen stone, capped with Devonshire marble. Designed by 
IVilliam Hay, and executed by the late John Rhind, A.R.S.A. 

On the occasion of the tercentenary of the establishment 
of representative government in Bermuda (Aug. i, 1620), a 
memorial tablet to Admiral Sir George Somers was placed 
on the S. wall of the Nave. It is a replica of the tablet 
unveiled at Whitechurch, Canonicorum, by former Governor 
Sir Henry Geary, Auig. 25, 1908. The Dowager Duchess of 
Bedford, a daughter of the last Earl Somers, contributed £5 
toward the cost of the replica. It reads as follows : 

"Admiral Sir George Somers, Kt., Shipmate of Sir Walter Raleigh, 
Colonizer of the Bermudas, Born near Lyme Regis, Dorset, i5S4; Mayor 
and M. P. for Lyme Regis, 1605: Died, in the Bermudas, 1610. Buried 



WITHIN HAMILTON 63 

at Whitechurch Canonicorum, Dorset, July 4, 161 1. Ei-ected by Public 
Subscription, 1908." 

The Bishop's Lodge joins the Cathedral grounds at the 
N. E. cor. of Church and Burnaby Sts. The Residence of 
the Canon Residenciary, erected in 1905, fronts on Victoria 
St.. and is approached from Church St. by a driveway betw. 
the Bishop's Lodge and the Cathedral. 

The Wesley Methodist Church, opposite the Sessions 
Buildings at N.E. cor. of Parliament St., was built in 1876-81 
from plans by Edivard Elliott, of Halifax. Dimensions, no 
ft. by 52 ft. Seating capacity 800. The organ, one of the 
best in Bermuda, was made by Jardine & Sons, New York. 
The basement contains a smaller auditorium used for Sunday 
School and general congregational purposes; also a public 
reading room. Total cost, exclusive of land, but including 
organ, £5000. 

The old Methodist Chapel, erected in 1814 on the site of the 
Hamilton Hotel extension, was not only the first place of worship within 
the town limits, but the first Methodist church in Bermuda. It was due 
to the unfaltering energy of Joshua Marsden, who came to the Islands 
when religious bigotry was still rife, and has left in the narrative of 
his Mission, a vivid picture of his successful effort: 

"This place had been in Mr. Stephenson's time the very focus of 
persecution, and from hence he was carried to an ignominious jail; 
liowever, I did not reason with flesh and blood, but took a house at Pitt's 
Bay, and hired a long room over some stores to preach in. . . . I 
petitioned the Corporation of Hamilton, and after some demur they 
granted me a lot sufficiently large for a chapel and mission hous€. . . . 
Though arduously engaged from morning till night, either in having 
cedar cut for beams and rafters, stone got for the walls, or riding up 
and down to solicit subscriptions, to procure material, or to employ 
workmen, yet I never had better health in my whole life. . . . Thus, 
after preaching two years from house to house in a sultry climate, I 
had at length the happiness to ascend a pulpit and proclaim to four or 
five hundred people, 'This is none other but the House of God, and 
this is thef Gate of Heaven.' " 

St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church stands one block fur- 
ther E., at N.E. cor. of Court St. It was erected in 1843 
on land given by Governor Reid, whose father was a minister 
of the Established Church of Scotland. It was completed 
and first opened for service by the Governor on Sunday. 
May 24, 1846, the anniversary of Queen Victoria's birthday. 
Additions and improvements were made in 1893 and again 
in 1904. 

f. Victoria Street and Northward 

Victoria St. extends from Wesley St., on W.. to King St.. 
on E., connecting there with the road to Prospect Hill and 
Cottage Hospital. Directly behind the Hamilton Hotel, and 
extending to Dundonald St., on N., and Cedar Ave., on E. 



64 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

(the continuation of Burnaby St.), is Victoria Park, a public 
square of about 4 acres, containing one of the best collections 
of tropical and semi-tropical trees in the Islands. The list 
includes 7 species of palm, including the Mountain Cabbage 
Palm, Gru-gru, Sago, Cocoanut, Date and Wax Palm, besides 
the native Palmetto. The Calabash, Fiddlewood, Sapodilla 
and Frangipanni, Tamarind, Mango, Norfolk Island Pine, 
Feathery Bamboo, Hybiscus, Candelabra Cactus and Green 
Bay Tree are all represented; and there is a fine Sycamore 
beside the S. wall. In the centre of the Park is a Band- 
stand, erected as a memorial of Queen Victoria's Jubilee, and 
opened Jan., 1890. 

(Facing the Park, at S.W. cor., is Victoria Lodge (p. 6), a small 
and select family hotel. On the opposite side, at S.E. cor. of Burnaby 
St., is the* Argyle (p. 6), a popular boarding-house. 

On Brunswick, formerly Angle St., one block W. of the 
Park, is the Brunswick Hotel (p. 6). Continuing W., on 
Victoria St., we reach, just N. on Parliament St., the Roman 
Catholic Church of St. Edward the Confessor, dedicated in 
1870. In July, 1884, it narrowly escaped destruction from an 
incendiary fire. It was enlarged in 1890 and again in 1895. 

Further E. on Victoria St., cor. of Court St., is the 
African Methodist Episcopal Church of St. Paid, first opened 
for service in 1881. The tower and spire, adapted from 
St. Mark's church. Smith's Parish, was completed in 1902. 

On Nov. 3, 1907. Governor Wodehouse attended service at St. Paul's, 
and the minister called attention to its being an historic event, and the 
second time in the church's history when a Governor had attended 
service there, the former occasion being that of Governor Newdegate's 
presence in 1890. 

In Jan., 1921, Ex-President William H. Taft delivered an address 
here to the colored people of Bermuda on the status of the negro in 
Bermuda and the United States. 

The Colonial Opera House standing some 200 ft. E. of 
Court St., was begun in 1905, and although not completed 
until the spring of 1908, was first opened to the public May 
28, 1907, with a concert, drill and fancy fair, for the purpose 
of raising money to finish the interior. The first regular 
public performance was a local amateur minstrel show, given 
during Christmas week of 1907. This is the only theatre on 
the Islands where most of the effects required by modern 
plays may be produced. 

"Thet two most beautiful (buildings in Hamilton are the Cathedral, 
designed by an eminent Scotch architect, and the Opera House, built by 
the Bermudian negroes, with labor and material they gave without cost, 
and fashioned after the plans of a colored carpenter and mason. The 
Cathedral is very good modern Gothic; but the Opera House is like a 
bit of sixteenth-century Rome, the unpolished coral rock shining like 
travertine, grayish yellow, and endearingly soft to the eye. The con- 



EXCURSIONS IN PEMBROKE 65 

tractor and mason had read some books about Greek and Roman archi- 
tecture, but he had never been off his Island, and he had felt that 
beauty tenderly and delicately out with his head and heart, so that it 
IS a pleasure to look at it." — William Dean Hozvells. 

II. Excursions in Pembroke 

Three main roads lead N. and W. from Hamilton through 
Pembroke West to Spanish Point: i. The Pitt's Bay Road 
past the Princess Hotel, Norwood and Fairyland; 2. The 
Serpentine Road, past the Electric Light Plant and Richmond 
Cricket Field ; 3. The St. John's Road, past the parish church 
and thence either by Clarence Ave. or the North Shore Road! 

a. The Pitt's Bay Road to Spanish Point 

Beyond the Ferry House, Front St. becomes the Pitt's 
Bay Road, passing behind Alhuoy Point and skirting the 
shore as far as Pitt's Bay before turning N. to join Clarence 
Ave Potnt Pleasant Hotel (p. 6) on, Albuoy Point, is a 
small, but agreeably situated house, enlarged and improved in 
■ 1913 (capacity 60 guests). Since the Point was acquired by 
the Corporation of Hamilton, at a cost of £14,000, the Point- 
Pleasant is justified in its claim of being the only hotel within 
city limits, situated on the water front. Opposite, on R., 

T?..,?°^^^^"^' ^^^ ^^^y y^ars the residence of the late 
William Bluck. (PI. IH— H5^. 

Rosebankfor over a quarter century has been identified with the 
annual exhibition of the Agricultural Association, formed to foster agri- 
cultural and horticultural industries in the colony. Governor Newdegate 
revived these exhibitions, holding the first at Mt. Langton, in i88g 
The following year, however. Mr. Bluck offered the use of his extensive 
grounds, and here, with one exception, the exhibitions were henceforth 
held annually, m late April or early May. 

Adjoining Rosebank on W., is Long House, former home 
of the late William S. Barr. It is still identified with the 
niemory of Sir William Burnaby, of Broughton Hall, Oxford. 
3d Bart., from his marriage, in 1818, to the widow of Joseph 
Wood, until his death in 1855. 

As far back as 1835 an English woman, visiting Bermuda and 
describing a dinner at the Burnaby's, calls Long House "the hand- 
somest and most comfortable mansion in Bermuda. It enjoys an extensive 
view over Hamilton Water and the green hills of Paget, and has a very 
pretty garden. — ' Sketches of Bermuda," by Snsette Harriet Lloyd. 

A few rods beyond Long House, on L.. on the promon- 
tory at E. end of Pitt's Bay, is the Princess Hotel (p. 6) 
r ir'^ a Bermuda Company in 1884, and named in honor 
of H. K. H. Princess Louise, who had visited Bermuda the 
previous year. It is a frame structure with a double sheath- 



66 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

ing of wood externall}^, and blue slate roof; and is not only 
the second largest hotel, but the largest all-wood buildmg 
on the Islands {Edivard Peniston, The Flatts, arch.) 

The Princess has been several times enlarged, first in 1889, and 
again in 1904, and 1905. The W. front, containing main entrance, 
measures 230 ft., and the S. or sea front, 280 ft. There are 8000 sq. ft. 
of verandah space on the two fronts, of which 1150 sq. ft. are enclosed 
in glass. 

The new extension on S. front contains a spacious dining-room, 
160 ft. by 40 ft. It is finished in Flemish Renaissance; the walls 
wainscotted in cypress, natural finish, relieved with fluted pilasters to 
harmonize with the central supporting colonnade. The dining-room is 
reached from the entrance hall, through the new dancing room, 50 x 40 
ft., in English Renaissance. 

The tower flag pole, presented in 1885 by the Mayor of Hamilton, 
was the one used on the occasion of the landing of Princess Louise. 

The Princess Hotel has been the headquarters of the various Motion 
Picture Companies which have visited Bermuda. Annette Kellerman's 
Company (p. 92), with Will am E. Shea and Leah Baird, stayed here 
in 1913, and some scenes of "Neptune's Daughter" were taken in the 
hotel grounds. And in Feb., 1920, the hotel stables were turned into 
a temporary menagerie during the stay of Pearl White and her Company. 

Near the Princess, on Pitt's Bay, is the boat house of 
the Bermuda Boat and Canoe Club (p. 27), organized in 
1906. On the point at W. end of Bay, stands Bay House, 
for several years the home of Mr. and Mrs. W. H, Allen, 
parents of Mark Twain's little friend, Helen; and here Mark 
Twain himself was a frequei^ visitor. 

"Clemens remained not regularly at the Hotel Hamilton. He kept 
a room and his wardrobe there; but he paid a visit tO' Bay House, the 
lovely and quaint home of Helen's parents, and prolonged it from week 
to week. . . . Among the callers at the Bay House to see him was 
Woodrow Wilson, and the twoi put in some pleasant hours at miniature 
golf, 'putting' on the Allen lawn." — Albert Bigelow Paine, "Mark Twain." 

The road here curves N., passing, on L., Olive Hill, part 
of the S. A. Masters estate, with a quarry noted for the 
quality of its limestone. Just beyond is Norwood, being part 
of the original section belonging to Richard Norwood, 
Bermuda's first surveyor. 

Norwood, after completing his first survey of the Islands, returned 
to England, but later came back and made his permanent home in 
Bermuda, until his death in 1675. The present bathing house on the 
shore is near the site of his former home. The property passed to the 
Saltus family, connected by marriage with Norwood, and was held con- 
tinuously by their descendants until the death of the late Samuel Saltus 
in 1880.' The old Norwood homestead, still standing, is believed, from 
the evidence of a date on a piece of Elizabethan plate in possession 
of the family, to have been built about 1720. 

Wcstfield, opposite Norwood, was bequeathed by Samuel 
Saltus to the Parish of Pembroke for a rectory. 



EXCURSIONS IN PEMBROKE 67 

A little further (i mi. from Hamilton) is a crossways, 
with the Serpentine Road (p. 70), on R., leading back to 
Hamilton, and the Fairyland Road, on L. (p. 70), leading 
to Fairyland and Grassmere Hotel The Pitt's Bay Road 
now becomes the Spanish Point Road, and continues N. across 
Pembroke Marsh West, beyond which it is joined by Clarence 
Ave. (p. 72). Here it curves westerly, passing the Bermuda 
Golf Links, on R. (p. 25), and readhes the main entrance 
to Admiralty House about 1 2/3 mi. from Heyl's Corner. 

b. Admiralty House 

Admiralty House, part of the Naval Establishment at 
Ireland Island, and residence of the Admiral of the Fleet 
when in Bermuda, is on Clarence Hill, (iPl. III-H 3) the 
grounds extending on both sides of the Spanish Point Road, 
and stretching N. to the North Shore E. and W, of Clarence 
Cove. The grounds, which rival those of Government House 
in interest, and like them, were formerly opened to the pub- 
lic on Thursdays, can now be visited only by permit, to be 
obtained by application to the Colonial Secretary. 

History. Prior to 1810 the resident Admiral lived at St. George's 
in ai house on Rose Hill (p. 107), allotted by the Legislature. In that 
year, however, Admiral Sir J. B. Warren, wishing to be nearer the new 
naval settlement at Ireland Island, rented the place then called "St. 
John's Hill" (now Clarence Hill), at an annual rental of £60. Two 
years later the Legislature! assigned' Mt. Wyndham (p. 89), overlooking 
Bailey's Bay, as a temporary residence for the Admiral; and St. John's 
Hill served as a naval hospital until 1816, when it was bought by the 
Colony for £3,000, and made over as a freehold gift to the Crown for 
the Admiralty House. In 1822 the name was changed to Clarence Hill 
in honor of H. R. H. Prince Clarence, later Lord High Admiral. Clar- 
ence Bay, renamed at the same time, still preserves on many maps its 
earlier name of Abbott's Bay, from Morris Abbott, one of the original 
"Adventurers" whose section on Norwood's map o£ 1622 abutted on 
the Bay. 

The original St. John's Hill House served as the nucleus of the 
present residence, which has been developed through successive remodel- 
ings and extensions. From 1822 onward numerous plans were advanced 
for radical alterations, and in 1844 a new building was definitely 
decided upon. Nothing, however, came of it; and apparently Admiral 
Dundonald, in 1848, threw his influence against the plan, since we fimd 
Lord Auckland writing to him "the disinterestedness with which you 
regard the schemes for a new Admiralty House at Bermuda will give you 
authority in checking expenditure on other objects." Nevertheless, 
Admiral Dundonald interested himself actively in lavish improvements, 
especially of the surrounding grounds. The festivities which marked 
his short residence in Bermuda are one of the bright traditions of the 
Island; and he personally supervised the excavation of the artificial cave 
still to be seen near the N. shore, in which, when completed, he gave 
a ball. 

Finally, in 1897, definite steps were taken to make Admiralty House 
a fitting winter residence. The wide corridor which had formerly 
extended from drawing-room to dining-room (with the main entrance 



68 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

in its centre), was extended, westward through the dining-room, which 
was enlarged on N., to retain its dimensions. A famous conservator}^ 
known as the Glass House, erected in 1876 by Vice-Admiral Sir Cooper 
Key for housing some rare West Indian plants, was taken down and a 
reception-room, 40 x 30 ft. erected parallel to the dining-room leaving a 
court between. This inner court, open to the sky, with surrounding 
galleries giving ample room for promenaders, has greatly enhanced the 
attraction of Admiralty House receptions and balls. 

Directly in front of Admiralty House stand three inter- 
esting trees: a cedar planted in_i86i by Prince Alfred; a 
spice tree planted in 1891, by Prince George (now George V) ; 
and another cedar set out by the present Prince of Wale's 
in 1920, Following a serpentine pathway northward, the vis- 
itor comes presently to some broad steps cut in the side of 
the cliff, leading to ai secluded little beach of pure white sand. 
A branch pathway leads to Lord Dundonald's artificial grotto, 
in which a fountain plays above tall ferns ^and Easter lilies. 
Some distance away, beside the water, is a low, fiat stone, 
dated 1815, and marking the grave of an 18-year-old midship- 
man of H. M. S. Spartan. The cocoanut palm beside the 
grave was planted in 1920, by the Prince of Wales. 

A legend connected with this grave is to the effect that a man- 
servant came to this snot one night to meet his sweetheart, one of the 
maids at Admiralty House, who had caused him much jealousy by 
accepting attentions from a stable groom. As the girl came to meet 
him, he caught sight of a youth just behind her, and brushing her aside, 
sprang upon him, andd stabbed him through the heart. Shortly after- 
wards he committed suicide upon learning his terrible mistake in having 
taken the life of a midshipman who was a guest of the House, and was 
finishing his after-dinner cigar by the shore. The prosaic facts how- 
ever, are, that in 181 2- 16 St. John's Hill was not Admiralty House, but 
the Naval Hospital, which fully accounts for the midshipman's grave 
in Cove Garden. 

Lord Frederic Hamilton notes as foillows the three peculiarities of 
the Admiralty House gardens: "One is a fountain, the only one in 
the Islands. As 'there is not one drop of fresh water, this fountain 
has its own catchment area, and its own special rain-water tank. The 
second unusual feature is a series of large chambers hewn out of the 
solid rock, with openings toward the sea. These caves were cut out by 
convict labor as a refuge from the fierce heat of the summer months. 
The tJiird is a flat tombstone by the lawn tennis ground, inscribed 
'Here lies a British Midshipman, 18 15,' nothing more; no name, no 
age, no particulars. I have often wondered how that forlorn, name- 
less, ageless midshipman came to be lying in the Admiral's garden." 

From the Cove Garden a path running S. leads to the 
lengthy tunnel, through which the visitor must grope his way, 
except on the brightest of days, ilt passes under the Spanish 
Point Road, and ends in the Fruit Garden, containing a rare 
collection of tropical fruit trees and plants. 

Beyond Clarence Hill, the road continues to the extreme 
end of Spanish Point, where, on Stovel Bay, is a fine sandy 
beach. At Ocean Bright (Mrs. L. S. Simmons) are bath 



EXCURSIONS IN PEMBROKE 69 

houses, showers and other facilities for sea bathing. From 
Long Point, the northern most extremity of Spanish Point, 
is a fine view, especially at low tide, of Cobbler's Islands, the 
Lap Stone and Stagg'sl Rocks, a series of little islands, honey- 
combed with caverns and natural arches, extending westward 
toward Hogfish Beacon. 

Cobbler's Island is one of Bermuda's traditional places of execution. 
Here, in 1656, one Cabilecto, a negro found guilty of conspiring against 
the Government, was executed "upon a jibbet sett up by the Governor's 
appoyntment." And again, in 1664, Black Peter was hanged here, the 
old record adding, "And it was further ordered that after the execution 
of said Peter, that his head be severed from his bodie, and his head 
fixed upon a spicke uppon the topp of the Island, to be the terror of 
all slaves that shall hereafter attempt the like act and oifence." 

The name, Spanish Point, has given rise to numerous 
conjectures. There is a tradition that prior to the settlement 
of the Islands by Lord Somers, a shipwrecked Spanish crew, 
after burying their treasure, built a vessel of cedar at Spanish 
Point and escaped. "Spanish Point was, not unlikely, named 
from this," says Prof. Verrill. But a recently discovered 
letter of the Rev. Lewis Hughes, dated 1619, speaks of 
Spanish Point as the site of a recent wreck, which at that 
time was subject of diplomatic representation by the Spanish 
Court. 

c. The Serpentine Road to Fairyland 

The Serpentine Road, a continuation of Park St., run- 
ning W. from Victoria Park (p. 64), is most j-eadily 
reached from the hotel centre through Church and Wesley 
Sts. A little beyond the city line, where Princess Road 
branches N. the Bermuda Mineral Water Factory is passed 
on R., interesting because of its huge whitewashed slope of 
denuded limestone, gleaming like a snow bank serving as a 
watershed to supply their tanks. 

This factory was opened in Jan., 1907. The tanks have a capacity 
of 250,000 gallons. Berkefeld filters are used. This company invites 
public inspection of the plant. 

A little further, on L., is the Bermuda High School fo^ 
Girls, organized in 1894, and the present building completed 
in 1899 on land donated by the late William S. Barr, from 
the Long House property. Diagonally opposite, on R., are 
the Richmond Cricket Grounds, formerly the property of the 
Hamilton Cricket Club, but recently acquired by the Bermuda 
Athletic Association (p. 22). 

"The Richmond Cricket Ground was purchased from Dr. Walter 
Bluck in 1904, and the club house erected in 1907. The latter measures 
42 X 60 ft., with a spacious verandah 60 ft. long by 16 ft. deep, on S., 
overlooking cricket field and divided into five terraces, seating 250 



70 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

people, W. D. Wilkinson, aixh. Along the S. fence are the "Bleach- 
ers," holding some 400. 

When the Hamilton Cricket Club, hard hit by the war, suspended 
activities, the grounds were taken over by the Athletic Association, 
which has inaugurated a go-ahead policy both in improving the grounds, 
and fostering in addition to cricket, an agreeable diversity of other 
sports, including baseball and football. 

Just beyond the cricket field, set back from the road, 
on N., is the plant of the Bermuda Electric Light, Pozver and 
Traction Company, Ltd. 

Two-'thirds of a mile from Hamilton, the Serpentine 
forms a crossways with the Pitt's Bay Road (p. 67), 
from which the visitor may continue on R., to Spanish Point 
or, on L., return to Hamilton along the shore. The Serpentine 
is continued due W. by a narrow lane (with sign post marked 
"Grasmere"), running between high stone walls. This is the 
Fairyland Road, leading to Soncy, the estate of the late 
General Russell Hastings. In former years this was one 
of the first places that visitors sought out upon landing in 
Bermuda, not only because of its beautiful scenery, but for 
its famous lily fields, where more than 100,000 blossoms could 
often be seen at one time. Even today the whole Fairyland 
section offers opportunities for a ramble which lovers of the 
picturesque should not miss. The paths, branching S. W. 
through the Point Shares peninsula, or skirting the shores 
of Fairyland Creek and Mangrove Creek, afford an infinite 
variety of vistas of intermingled land and water, framed in 
the dense vegetation of Mangrove swamps. (PI. III-H 4). 

"Mangroves, myriad rooted, gnarled and verdant, fringe the 
termination of the Sound. Their twisted, dark brown trunks rise from 
the water's edge, curve with new branch-shoots upward, then droop 
quickly; casting anchor with descending roots, they again rise skyward 
— to repeat the process of rerooting. From all the older branches 
rootlets, shaggy, strange-looking, descend like dishevelled tresses, first 
wind-blown, then petrified. They spread their roots in search of some- 
thing to which they may attach themFelves; finding it not, they are left 
suspended in mid-air, standing out darkly against the intense blue sky." — 
"Glimpses of Life in Bermuda," by Margaret Nezvton. 

d. From Cedar Avenue to the North Shore 

Cedar Ave. becomes, at North St., St. John's Road, with 
the old estate of Dellwood on R., and the convent school of 
Mount St. Agnes on L., founded in 1890 by four Sisters of 
Charity of Mount St. Vincent, Halifax. Continuing N. 
(yi mi.) the road curves westward with Pembroke Parish 
graveyard on R.. then bends sharply N. opposite entrance, 
on L., to grounds of the Saltns Grammar School. It is a 



EXCURSIONS IN PEMBROKE 71 

High School for bo}^, named after the late Samuel Saltus 
of Nonfood (p. 66), who died in 1880 leaving the residue 
of his estate for the support of "a good school for white 
persons in or near Pembroke Parish." The school grounds 
are part of Woodlands, the ancient homestead of the Wood 
family, the entail to which was broken in 1892. 

Th^ Pembroke Parish Church oe St. John, a few rods 
further N., on R., was founded in 1621, as evidenced by date 
on a pulpit board still preserved in the vestry. In 1677 the 
original roof was repaired, since a quaint record survives of 
an order that "every person was to bring eight dozen palmetto 
leaves, or in default % for thatching of the church." The 
structure was rebuilt in 1721, and again in 1821. The apse 
was added in 1874, and in 1900 an aisle was added on the 
S.E. angle, spoiling the symmetry of the original Greek cross 
formation, but affording much needed seating space. 

The church contains some fine memorial windows. The 
three in the apse are by James Ballentine & Son, of Edin- 
burgh, after designs by R. Hurdman, R.S.A. 

I. Central window, three lights; L. Taking Home of the Virgin by 
St. John; C. The Entombment; R. Christ Appears to Mary Magdalene 
after the Resurrection. 2. North window, two light; L. Our Lord's 
Charge to St. Peter; R. St. Paul Preaching at Athens. 3. South window, 
tAvo lights; L. The Sower; R. the Good Shepherd. The N. and S. 
windows are memorials respectively to he Rt. Rev. Edward Feild, 
Bishop of Newfoundland and Bermuda and to the Rev. Joseph Eraser 
Lightbourne, for 46 years rector of Pembroke and Devonshire. The 
central window was given by Mrs. Thomas S. Reid, of Pembroke Hall, 
in memory of her parents, brothers and sister. 

There are three windows by Wailes & Strang of Newcastle; i, 
(in N. E. cor.), to Rev. Mark James, for 27 years rector of Pembroke 
and Devonshire; L. "This is My Beloved Son in whom I am well 
pleased"; R. "Suffer Little Children to Come unto Me." 2. (S. transept, 
E. wall); L. The Annunciation; R. The Nativity. 3. L. Christ in the 
Temple; R. The Ascension. 4. (E. wall) The Adoration of the Magi, 
by Clayton & Bell. 

The floor of the apse, of Minton tiles especially designed 
by Minton, HoUins & Co., Stroke-upon-Trent, is a memorial 
to three prominent Bermudians, Joseph Wood, Samuel Saltus 
and Donald McPhee Lee, who died respectively in 1869, 1880 
and 1883 ; "Firm friends in life, honorable men in their genera- 
tion, who rest in Death near each other, and near this spot." 
Beneath the chancel William Bennett Perot, of Par-la- Ville 
(p. 54), his wife Susanna and daughter ElizalDeth are buried. 

In the churchyard, on R. of entrance path, is the tomb 
of Bishop Feild, marked by a slab of Peterhead granite, and 
overshadowed by two Sago palms, and a Barbadoes Pride 



y2 RIDER^S BERMUDA 

Tree. In close proximity is the grave of Sir Robert Laffaii, 
Governor of Bermuda from 1877 until his death at Mt Lang- 
ton, March 22, 1882. His monument consists of a massive 
block of blue granite, with a cross cut in relief, with inlaid 
white marble inscribed with the Laffan crest, and other insig- 
nia. The inscription records that "he is laid by his own desire 
among the people of Bermuda whose happiness and prosperity 
he had most deeply at heart." 

Several of the ofificers and crew of an American gunboat, who fell 
in action with the British sloop-of-war Ruby in 1813, were buried in 
Pembroke graveyard. The slate tablet formerly marking the spot was 
removed about 19 13, presumably by some souvenir hunter. 

Directly opposite St. John's is Clarence Ave., running due 
W. and dividing the old Wood estate into North and South 
Woodlands, now occupied, in addition to the Saltus Grammar 
School, by numerous private cottages. Those in the Mount Hill 
section of North Woodlands (altitude 165 ft.) command a 
fine view of the North Shore and Great Harbor. From St. 
John's church the main road curves E., and ascends a steep 
grade, passing Maria's Hill on R., and reaching (^ mi.) on 
L., the Eagle's Nest Hotel (p. 6), and on R. the main, en- 
trance to Mount Langton. The road continues through a 
deep cut, interesting to g-eologists (p. 7Z), and joins the North 
Shore road (see p. 75). 

e. Government House 
Mount Langton, containing Government House, the official 
residence of the Governor of Bermuda, comprises about 70 
acres, extending from the North Shore to Pembroke Marsh, 
with a central elevation of about 85 ft. The Governor's resi- 
dence was at St. George's until 1814, when the Colony pur- 
chased the present tract from Mr. Joseph Stowe for £4800. 
The first occupant was Sir James Cockburn, who named it 
Mount Langton, after his estate in Berwickshire, Scotland. 
The old Stowe homestead, with many alterations and addi- 
tions was made to serve its purpose until 1882, when an Act 
of Legislature authorized the erection of a new Govern- 
ment House. Hay & Henderson, of Edinburgh, were 
entrusted with the work, and their plans were completed in 
November of that year. The estimates, however, were found 
to exceed considerablv the appropriations : and because of 
delays incident to modifications of the plans, the actual work 
was not begun until 1886, and was completed only in 1892. 

The design of the new Government House is in the Italian style, 
the main central portion forming a broad and somewhat irregu'ar letter 
H, with a tower at each corner. The principal fagade, on N., shows a 



EXCURSIONS IN PEMBROKE 7Z 

long double arcade of rounded arches, with main entrance portico in 
the centre. The two E. towers are uniform. Those on W. are taller 
and unequal, that at the S. W. angle rising conspicuously above th^ 
rest. Beyond these towers, on W., is a whole series of apartments 
extending along the western fagade, which also has a double arcade, 
divided in two by a middle tower, in which is the entrance for callers 
on official business. On L. of entrance axe the offices of the Governor 
and A. D. C, and on R. are the waiting-room and reception and music 
rooms. Back of these come successively the librarj-, drawing-room, 
dining-room and ball-room; while in the E. wing are the kitchen, pantry, 
servants' hall, etc. According to the original plan the extreme dimen- 
sions were: length, 240 ft.; greatest width, 118 ft.; drawing-room, 36x23 
ft.; dining-room, 45x23 ft. ;_ ball-room, 50 x 35 ft. Some of these 
dimensions were slightly curtailed in revising the plans. 

The present Government House stands 200 feet N.E. from 
the site of the old building, which continued to be used as 
Government House down to 1892. Governor Thomas C. Lyons 
was the first occupant of the new residence upon his arrival 
July 18, 1892. But the first public entertainment at the new 
Government House was given a few weeks earlier by the retir- 
ing Governor, Lieut.-Gen. Newdegate, in celebration of the 
Jubilee of his army service. 

The grounds of Mount Langton were formerly open to the 
public on Thursdays. The privilege, however, was abused by 
promiscuous picking of flowers, and other acts of vandalism, 
in consequence of which notices were prominently posted at 
all entrances: ''PRIVATE GROUNDS. The public are not 
admitted to these grounds, except by a pass signed by the 
A. D. C, ivhich may be obtained by applying by post, (signed) 
Colonial Surveyor." 

The gardens of Mount Langton contain many fine specimens of 
tropical plants and shrubs, including the Gru-gru Palm (Astrocariitin 
aureum). Rubber Tree {Ficns elastica). Bamboos (Bambtisa arundinacea), 
Wampee and Li-chi Trees. Here Lady Hildebrand Turner, about 1830, 
planted the first Weeping Willow ever seen in the Islands. Governor 
Reid, about 1841, planted the Rubber Tree which stands near the steps 
leading down to the garden. Governor Elliott, in 1850, introduced the 
only Silk-cotton Trees in Bermuda. They are magnificent specimens, 
and have attained an unusual height before tlirowing out lateral branches. 
In Africa this tree is looked upon by the natives as sacred, and many 
rites and incantations are performed under its shade. 

To L. of Government House Grounds, St. John's Road con- 
tinues N. through the deep Mount Langton Cut, to join the 
North Shore Road. 

As, in the case of the Khyben Pass Cut (p. 122). the deep cutting 
here affords an interesting exposure of geologic strata noted as early 
as 1849 by Admiral Dundonald: "The hills and vales throughout the 
whole extent of Bermuda have the stratified calcareous material gener- 
ally conforming to the inclination of the surface. There are, however, 
many situations in which the strata present themselves as manifestly 
broken by force. In the deep cutting in the road which enters into the 
enclosure around Government House one of these breaks appears at the 



74 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

apex of the hill, dividing its sides, which have inclined toward the 
centre, exposing a wedge-formed supplementary part that fills up the 
interstice." 

The North Shore Road, reached just W. of the Ducking 
Stool (p. 75), continues W. along the shore for aibout i mi., 
passing, on L., the Bermuda Golf Links (p. 25), beyond 
which, at William's Point, it bends inland to join the Spanish 
Point Road near the entrance to Admiralty House (p. 67). 

f. Agar's Island 
Agar's Island (PI. I II-G4), approximately 4 acres, one of 
the chain of islands at the entrance to Hamilton Harbour situ- 
ated barely 200 yards from the shore of Point Shares, Pem- 
broke, was until recently one of the chief points of interest 
to tourists, because of the novel and well stocked Aquarium 
situated here. The island presumably owes its name to Sir 
Anthony Agar (or Aucher), who, according to Norwood's 
first survey in 1616, owned two shares of the adjacent land 
in Pembroke, "abutting at ye south end uppon ye Mill Creek, 
Bosses Hole Bay." For many years it was the property of 
the War Department, which used it for a powder magazine. 
In 1907, however, it was turned over to the Bermuda Natural 
History Society (p. 54), as headquarters for a permanent 
biological station and aquarium. 

With the aid of a special grant from the Legislature, and a hand- 
some donation from James Gordon Bennett of the New York Herald, 
the former storage-house for powder was changed into an aquarium, 
and some other old structures into laboratories and living quarters, 
where, in 1907, sixteen scientists put in a profitable siummer. The 
aquarium was formally opened on New Year's Day, 1908, the speakers 
including Governor Wodehouse and W. Maxwell Greene, U. S. Consul, 
who had been one of the most active promoters of the enterprise, 

Tlie unique feature of this aquarium was due to the formation of 
the old powder magazine, which was an underground structure of solid 
masonry, divided into five transverse chambers, crossed by a dark 
passage. The glass tanks for the fishes and other marine specimens 
were installed in these chambers, which were surrounded by a sort of 
mote, called the "Lighting Passage." In this way the tops of the 
tanks were exposed to light and air, and the sliapes andl coloring of 
their inmates shown to the best advantage to the spectators, who, 
excepting for the light received through the water, were themselves 
in darkness. 

Unfortunately the urgent needs for economy during the 
late war, and the demand for storage space for military pur- 
poses, led to the abandonment of the biological station, and 
closing of the aquarium in March, 1917. The Royal Gazette 
commenting on the occurrence, remarked editorially: 

"We are all aware of the general and avowed indiiference to literature, 
art and music, upon which the inhabitants of the Islands of Bermuda 
rather pride themselves; now they will probably imclude biology, and 
comfortably shelve the subject forever." 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES 

Paget East, Devonshire, Smith's and Hamilton 

The Central Section includes that portion of the Main 
Island extending from Hamilton Harbour to Castle Harbour, 
and comprising, in addition to the Parishes of Devonshire, 
Smith's and Hamilton, the eastern half of Paget, and the 
peninsula known as Tucker's Town, which officially belongs 
to St, George's. There are three main highways leading E. 
through this section: the North Shore and Middle Roads, 
which meet at the Flatts, the former continuing eastward to 
St. George's ; and the South Road, leading to Tucker's Town, 
with a N. branch to Harrington Sound, where the Sound 
Road leads, on L., to the Flatts, or, on R., to the North 
Shore Road at Bailey's Bay. 

I. North Shore Road from Hamilton to Flatts 

Village 

Follow Cedar Ave. and St. John's Road through the 
Mt. Langton Cut to the North Shore Road (i mi.). Almost 
opposite the junction of the roads is a projecting point of 
land, known as Ducking Stool, now occupied by an Imperial 
Saluting Battery, while below the bank is a public wharf, 
erected by the military authorities. This is the traditional 
site of one of the Island's Ducking Stools, in the days when 
ducking was a common form' of punishment for scolds. 

One of the many sentences quoted by Lefroy from the Assizes of 
June, 1639, is the following: "Wyfe of Symon Prosser, for abusive 
speaches against the Sheriffe and Justice of the Tribe, was sentanced 
to be five tymes ducked in the sea." Instances of this punishment are 
recorded as late as 1671. 

From the Ducking Stool eastward for several miles the 
road is hedged on the ishore side, by an almost unbroken 
growth of Tamarisk (Tamarix gallica), locally known as 
"Spruce," planted as a shield against the north winds by 
Gov. Reid, about 1845. 

Proceeding E., we pass, on R., the rising grounds of 
Mount Langton, with excellent view of Government House 
(p. 72). Just ibeyond is North Village (i 1/3 mi.), a com- 
pact and picturesque little settlement of small whitewashed 
cottages. The one conspicuous building is Grace Methodist 
Church, started as a chapel in connection with the Wesley 
Church in Hamilton (p. 33). Foundation stone laid Sept. i, 
1899; church dedicated April 26, 1900. 



76 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

It is a picturesque little structure, measuring only 56 by 27 ft., with 
tower and spire 50 ft. high. Seating capacity 250. W. Cardy Hallett, 
architect. The church possesses an historic bell cast in 1806, which 
originally belonged to a line-of-battle-ship, later a convict hulk at Ireland 
Island. After the breaking up of the convict settlement the bell was 
acquired by the Sandys Parish Church (p. 130"), where it remained 
vintil 1890. 

A little further on, at Hinson Bay, we cross the Parish 
boundary betw. Pembroke and Devonshire. Just beyond is 
the Devonshire North Post Office, opposite which a cross- 
road branches S., zigzaging over the hills throuigh one of 
the most closely built negro settlements in the Islands. The 
energetic pedestrian wiho takes this route back to Hamilton 
will be arniply rewarded by a succession of scenic effects not 
to be had from any other point. 

A quarter mile further on we reach Devonshire Dock, 
believed to have been of some importance in the earlier days 
of Bermuda's shipping trade, but now available only for 
small boats. Running S. from Devonshire Dock, a main 
cross-road leads through Prospect Camp to the Middle Road, 
^ mi. E. of Hamilton (p. 79). Beyond, on R., is the 
Station Hospital; and diagonally opposite are the old Navy 
Wells, sunk to high-water level, and formerly used to supply 
the Navy with water before the large tanks and water sheds 
now in use, were constructed. At present the bath houses for 
the Garrison Officers and their families are situated here. 

The Garrison Golf Links are next passed extending along 
the high slope of Barker's Hill, with the Club House half 
hidden in a palmetto grove. The cross-road at this point 
leads to the Middle Road, just W. of Christ Church (p. 121). 
Just beyond the Smith Parish boundary, diagonally opposite 
Harvey's Dock (31/3 mi.), is Stone Hill, another short 
cross-cut to the Aliddle Road. Half a mile beyond, on L., is — 

Gibbons Bay, a small inlet just below the entrance to 
Flatts Harbour, with a pretty little beach of white shell-sand. 
The remains of a short causeway, easily crossed at low tide, 
lead to GaUozvs or Gibbet Island — so called from the execu- 
tion there, about 1754, of a sla;ve named Quashi, convicted 
of murdering his master. The gibbet, popularly known as 
"Quashi's Pole," remained standing until recent years, on 
the highest point of the rock. A few yards N. W. of this 
spot, a mass of stalagmite formation, evidently the floor of 
a former cavern, is pointed out by geologists as one of the 
many evidences of a former greater elevation of the Islands. 

The causeway, dating from the time w^hen Flatts Harbour was a 
thriving commercial port, represents a fruitless attempt to check the 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES '7^ 

drift of sand into the harbour's mouth. To-day it is a favorite haunt 
of naturalists. Prof. J. Matthews Jones mentions it as "an excellent 
place for collecting shells and sea-weeds, also marine invertebrates, 
which are common under the stones and sand at low water. In the 
little rock pools here and along the North Shore, occur frequently 
groups of young Velella, while in the crevices of the rocks, after a 
northerly storm, may be found great masses of Gulf Weed, covered 
■ with pelagic crustaceans and hydroids." 

The road now makes a long loop, following the shore of 
Flatts Harbour which extends inland about 1/3 mi. It is a 
narrow, shallow body of water, with white sandy bottom, 
presenting a very different aspect from the days when the 
shores were lined with wharves, where good-sized sea-going 
vessels discharged their cargoes ; for it formerly was one 
of the principal ports of Bermuda. The encroachment of 
sand, which eventually compelled its abandonment, began early, 
for about 1675 a Legislative Act was passed ordering "the 
mending of the Channell at the Flatts mouth . . , for the 
accommodation and securing of boats." 

Overlooking the harbour, on R., is Holly Hill, so called 
because holly, growing here in profusion, is a rarity elsewhere 
in Bermuda. A few rods beyond is the Hotel Frascati (p. 7), 
advantageously situated on the S. shore of the harbour, with 
wide verandas extending over the water. The hotel stands 
just within the boundary line of Hamilton Parish, a small 
corner of which extends below the harbour, taking in Plants 
l/illage. Notwithstanding its loss ot" importance, the village 
still retains some activity, possessing several shops, including 
one where bicycles may be rented. The Post Office is one 
of the three dating back to 18 12, when postal service was 
established. Just beyond the Post Office we reach Flatts 
Village Crosszvays, formed by junction with the Middle Road, 
on R. ; the Harrington Sound Road, straight ahead ; and the 
continuation, on L., of the North Shore Road towards Bailey's 
Bay and Sit. George's (p. 100). At S. W. cor. is a, small 
hotel, Brightside (p. 7), at S. E. cor. the extensive 
grounds O'f Villa Monticello (p. 86); and at N. E. cor., 
Palmetto Grove, former home of the late Archdeacon Tucker, 
facing the head of the harbour, with grounds running back 
to the shore of Harrington Sound. 

II. The Middle Road from Hamilton to Flatts 

Village 

East Broadway, the continuation of Front St. beyond the 
city limits, skirts the upper end of Hamilton Harbour, passing 
(R.) th^ Washington House (p. 6), the wharf of the Army 



78 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Service Corps, and Inglenook, a small private estate on the 
water's edge. Just beyond the road forks, the R. branch con- 
tinuing around the harbour (p. up), while, the L. branch con- 
tinues east up Lane Hill. On R. is Avocado Lodge (1/3 mi.), 
now the residence of the Army Chaplaiin, and just beyond is a 
crossroad leading to Happy Valley and Cottage Hospital. Be- 
yond the crossroad, on L., is Cavendish, now the quarters of 
the Seniotr Medical Officer, but for many generations the home- 
stead of the Darrell family. 

Cavendish was long identified by visitors to Bermvida with the 
hospitality of the Hon. John Harvey Darrell, Chief Justice of Bermuda, 
1856-71, who died in 1887. On the grounds formerly stood a locust 
tree marked with a memorial stone recording that in 1748, George 
Whitfield preached under this tree. The name of the estate is a 
reminder that Devonshire Parish itself was originally called Caven- 
dish Parish before Sir William Cavendish was created Earl of Devon- 
shire. 

A second crossroad (2/3 mi.) leads N. to Devonshire Dock 
(p. y6), passing on L., the Garrison Parade Ground and Ob- 
serimtory. A quarter mile further we reach a second entrance 
to Prospect Camp, opening directly on the main road. The 
driveway leads, for a few hundred yards between the high 
walls of fortifications, passing beneath a bridge and through 
the main gateway. The high ground here (222 ft.) affords a 
magnificent prospect of Bermuda to the westward, amply justi- 
fying the Camp's name. 

Prospect Military Camp is the headquarters of the Infantry, En- 
gineers, etc., stationed at Bermuda. The Barracks, Garrison Church. 
Gymnasium and Theatre are all located on the high ground _of_ the 
eastern section, and for the most part are substantial stone buildings. 
In the Garrison Theatre entertainments of various kinds, theatricals, 
concerts, etc., are frequently given by military or local talent. The 
Sunday morning services in the Garrison Church (Anglican: Parade 
service, 11 A.M.) usually attract many visitors because of the music 
provided by the Regimental band. 

East of the Camp, just beyond the married officers' quarters, 
is the Military Cemetery. It contains numerous interesting 
monuments erected by the officers and men of the respective 
regiments stationed here, in memory of comrades who died 
during their stay in Bermuda. 

Especial'y noteworthy are: 3d Battalion Royal Warwickshire Regt.; 
red granite obelisk, 1902-1904; 2d Battalion Bedfordshire Regt.; white 
marble cross, 1910-11; 2d and 4th Battalions East Yorkshire Regt.; 
wliite granite shaft on gray base, 1916-19. 

Kitchener Grave. At the E. extremity of the cemetery is a railed 
oblong plot containing the grave of Sir Walter Kitchener, Governor 
of Bermuda, 1908-12, and brother of the late Lord Kitchener. The 
monument i? a simple cross of pink granite, about 6 ft. h'gh. Brief 
inscriptions on the four sides record: (W.) His name: (N.) "Governor 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES 79 

of Bermuda"; (S.) "Lieut. -Gen. and Commander in Chief, K.C.B."; 
(E.) "Erected to his memory by the officers of Bermuda Garrison, and 
his friends in the Army. 

Beyond Prospect (i 1/3 mi.) a crossroad runs S., joining 
the Berry Hill road (p. 93), and the South Road. The Middle 
Road now bends N. to Christ Church (i 2/3 mi.), the new De- 
vonshire Parish Church. It stands on the R. side of main road, 
on a slight eminence. It was 'built in 1846-51 from native 
limestone, at a cost of £1700. Its design is the early English 
style, with dwarf walls and a high-pitch roof. Dimensions, 80 
ft. long, exclusive of chancel, and 40 ft. broad ; seating capac- 
ity, 500 persons. Architect, Sir George Grove. 

The memorial windows include: Southern window, "The Good 
Shepherd," a gift from the Parish children; and Eastern window, a 
triple lancet: Central light, "The Ascension"; "The Good Samaritan"; 
L. "Peter Walking on the Sea." 

Old Devonshire Church, one of the most interesting 
relics in Bermuda over two centuries old, stands in the ancient 
graveyard a few hundred yards N.E. of the new church. It is a 
rather low, unpretentious building of native limestone, the 
oldest part of which dates from 17 16. It is believed to stand 
upon the site of the first Devonshire Parish church, erected in 
1623. 

History. The hurricane of 1713 unroofed the Devonshire church, 
and inflicted such serious damage that in 1716 it was decided to re- 
build it. A delegation was sent to measure the church in Smith's 
Parish, in order that the new edifice might copy its design and pro- 
portions. The original form was a Latin cross, but in 1834 an addi- 
tion was made to the southern arm. Devonshire church had no paternal 
name until 1826, when Bishop Inglis consecrated it as "Christ Church." 

After the new Christ Church was built, the old church, being no 
longer used, fell into decay, and was fast becoming a ruin. Thd sttjne 
roof was shattered by a hurricane in 1880, and repaired in 1884. Early in 
1903 steps were taken to restore the old church, to the end of preserving 
it as a mortuary chapel. New foundation walls were laid to support 
beams for the new floor, to avoid the risk of disturbing the outer walls. 
Most of the window frames and sashes and doors are new, also 
the staircase to the gallery. In the course of repairs several graves 
were found beneath the church floor; in one case a beam had been 
sawn through to allow passage of the cofiin. 

Old Devonshire Church was reopened on Victoria Day, 1904, with 
a special commemoration service. It remains to-day in effect the same 
as when first built and finished. The seats, western gallery, clerk's 
desk, chancel screen, etc., are all as originally placed. One feature 
worthy of note, as showing that the woodwork was the handicraft of 
ship's carpenters, is the arrangement on the inside at the height of the 
wallplate,_ of timber shipsknees, bolted and keyed for the strengthening 
of the building. 

The most highly prized relic possessed by Christ Church is 
the ancient Siher Beaker, bequeathed by Capt. Roger Wood, 
Governor of Bermuda, by will proved May 2, 1654, as follows : 



8o RIDER'S BERMUDA 

"Item, I will and bequeath unto the church in Devonshire Tribe, 
one silver beaker which is now in their possession. . . . Willing and 
desiring that the said beaker may never be used in common manner, but 
only in the administration of the Lord's Supper." This beaker was 
used for the first time in nearly 50 years, at the commemoration service 
on Victoria Day. It has since been occasionally used at special services, 
announcement of which is made in the Royal Gazette. 

An ancient cedar tree, one of the oldest on the Island, the 
trunk of which is hollow and partly dead, with another cedar 
growing inside of it, stands at the S.E. cor. of the old 
church. Remains of iron bolts may still be seen in one branch 
from which the old church bell was hung. The bell was melted 
to make hinges for the new church. The present belfry, built 
of ced^r wood, stands at the S.W. cor. of the new churchyard. 
The bell, rung for the first time on Christmas morning, 1898, 
weighs 777 lbs. and is a memorial to the Rev. Mark James, 
a former rector. 

Opposite the church, and extending nearly a mile E. and 
W., is Devonshire Marsh, whose salty pools gave the former 
popular name of "Brackish Pond" to the Parish. 

Devonshire Marsh constitutes "an extensive morass . . . Among 
the close thicket of shrubs and palmettos which tenant its interior, some 
giant ferns and aquatic plants of divers species occur, which are not 
seen in the open. In this dense region the ornithologist will find a good 
collecting ground, as owing to the difficulty of traversing the treacherous 
bog, hardly anyone disturbs the solitude which almost constantly pre 
vails there. Here also, up in the branches of the old cedars, and occa- 
sionally in the shrubs around, may be procure the curiously constructed 
nest of thet tree rat {Mits tectoruin) ."^J. Matthews Janes, U. S. Nat. 
Museum Bull., vol. 25. 

Further en to R. (2 mi.), are the former Devonshire 
College Lands. The college, created under the Act of 1816, 
existed only during 1829-35 and the building, crowning Col- 
lege Hill was handed over in 1870 for a lunatic asylum. 
Capacity about 40 inmates. 

The Middle Road now merges in Stone Hill Road, and 
bends E. opposite Somerville, which formerly, v.^hen owned by 
Miss Louisa Tucker, was famous for its beautiful lilacs at 
Easter time. A quarter mile further on the road is joined by 
a (branch from the South Road, over Collector's Hill (p. 95). 

Whitney Institute (3 ^ mi.), one of Bermuda's leading 
High Schools, is next passed on L. After a prolonged struggle 
to raise funds for the purpose, the building, designed by Ed- 
zvard Peniston, was approaching completion, when a terrific 
gale, in Aug., 1880, almost totally destroyed it. The whole plan 
would probably have had to be abandoned but for the generous 
aid of Mr. William Whitney, American Vice-Consul, in whose 
honor the building was named when finished in 1883. 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES 8i 

The growth of the school soon necessitated its enlargement by a 
40-ft. addition, completed in 1903. The enlarged structure is 25-ft. wide 
on main facade, and 97 ft. deep. It is surmounted by a 70-ft. Assyrian- 
Norman tower containing a clock, a memorial to the late John W. 
Pearman. . 

The bell now hanging in the tower hung for many years m bt. 
Mark's church. A French inscription on its rim tells that it was cast 
at Nantes in 1771. . How it came to Bermuda is a mystery; but it is 
supposed to have been brought from the French West Indies during the 
Napoleonic wars. 

Toum Hill and the Peak. A little beyond Whitney Insti- 
tute Town Hill, formerly Sears' Hill, rises, on R., 259 ft. 
above sea-level, the highest point of land in Bermuda. Fol- 
lowing the branch road up the hill, we presently pass Orange 
Grove House, built of native limestone^ one of the oldest sur- 
viving colonial homesteads, dating from about 1665. The 
extensive orange grove from which the estate was named, 
including both Seville oranges {Citrus vulgaris) and the 
Bermuda sweet orange {Citrus aurantium) , has largely died 
off in recent years. The road now follows a zigzag course 
bringing the visitor by an easy grade to the summit of the 
hill (about ^ mi. from main road). Here is a scenic tower, 
locally known as The Peak, built of native limestone, and 30 
ft. high, making a total of 289 ft. above sea-level. The ascent 
consists of only 40 steps. (PI. III-M 5), 

The view from The Peak is admittedly the most extended from 
any point in the Islands, and, aside from an aeroplane trip, affords the 
best possible way of obtaining an accurate idea of the contour and 
relative position of the Islands. The panorama includes the entire 
archipelago, from the Great Sound and Ireland Island Dockyard on the 
W., along the v.'hole northern coast, past the waters of Harrington 
Sound directly below the tower, to Castle Harbour and the town of 
St. George at the extreme E.; then back along the entire stretch of the 
S. shore, from St. David's Light to Gibb's Hill. There is a good tele- 
scope on the tower for the use of visitors. 

A quarter mile further we reach the Flatts Village cross- 
ways, opposite Palmetto Grove (p. 77). Total distance from 
Hamilton, 31/3 mi. 

III. The North Shore Road from Flatts Village 
Crossways to the Blue Hole 

Passing Palmetto Grove on R., Flatts Bridge is reached 
(4/4 mi. from Hamilton), spanning the narrow tidal inlet to 
Harrington Sound (p. 85). A bridge has been here from ear- 
liest days, since the first recorded Act of the oldest British Co- 
lonial Legislature, passed in 1620, included a provision "that the 
Bridge already erected at the Flatts be made more substantial." 



82 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

"In the torrent below the bridge Mr. Goode discovered Amphioxus 
in 1877, and this vicinity is one of the best collecting grounds in the 
Islands. Much may be done by raking up stones and sponges fronn 
the bottom, and examining their interstices for • small animals." 
/. Mattfiews Jones. 

The road now traverses the narrow peninsula separating 
the Harbour from the Sound, passing on the Harbour side, diag- 
onally opipo'site the Hotel Frascati (p. 7), Wistowe, former 
home of the late C. M. Allen, for many years United States 
Consul. 

"During the Civil War Mr. Allen rendered his Government im- 
portant service, and his berth here during that period was anything 
but a bed of roses, for as these Islands were a base from whence the 
blockade runners drew their supplies, he was regarded by that frater- 
nity and their sympathizers here in the light of a spy upon their 
movements. During the visit of the Florida, he was attacked by some 
of the crew and nearly killed." J. H. Stark. 

Shelly Bay (5^2 mi.) bears the name of its discoverer, 
Henry Shelly, one of the party shipwrecked with Admiral Som- 
ers. Overlooking the Bay is Somers Hill, the old homestead of 
the Eve family, lately acquired by a New Yorker. 

"Shelly Bay is of considerable scientific interest, because long after 
its discovery it became obstructed with sand-dunes which were eventu- 
ally covered with vegetation. But about 1807 these sand-dunes were 
rapidly swept away again by the wind and sea, thus quite changing 
its form and size." A. E. Verrill. 

Beyond Bowen Point, at N. end of the Bay, is the Shelly 
Bay Race Course (p. 25), laid out in Oct., 1884. It is a cir- 
cular half mile course, owned by the Bermuda and Garrison 
Hunt Clulb (p. 25), (PI iIII— iM4). Here the first trotting 
iraces ever given in Bermuda took place Jan. 19, 1904. Beyond 
the race course, the road ascends the steep grade of Crazvl 
Hill; then descends again to Bailey's Bay (9^ mi. from Ham- 
ilton), passing on R. the Wesley an Chapel, and on L., "Sea- 
ward" (p. 7), formerly kept iby the late J. D. Seon, where 
Prof. Verrill's first expedition in 1898 made its headquarters. 

Along the high North Shore cliffs there are many grottoes and 
caves that can be entered only from the water. "Two large dome-like 
grottoes of this kind, accessible only by a boat at low water, are situ- 
ated close together in the shore-cliff, a short distance E. of Bailey's 
Bay. One of them is lighted from above, by a small, chimney-like 
opening in the roof. A. E. Verrill. 

Opposite Seaward is a cross-road to Church Bay, passing 
Mount Wyndham (p. 89) and Holy Trinity (p. 88). A sec- 
ond cross-road, passing N. of Mount Wyndham, connects with 
Wilkinson Ave. near the Sound Road (p. 88). A quarter mile 
beyond Bailey's Bay the North Shore Road meets the Old Ferry 
Road (leading to Coney Island; see p. 84), and bending S.E., 
forms a junction with Wilkinson Ave., continuing E. to the 
Cansezmiy (p. 100). 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES 83 

The Admiral's Cave, situated a short distance E. of Wil- 
kinson Ave., has been known for a long time, although it has 
only recently heen featured as a leading tourist attraction. It 
is named from Rear Admiral Sir David Milne, who in 1819 cut 
from it a stalagmite upwards of 11 ft. in height, and 2 ft. in 
diameter, and weighing 3^ tons, which he sent to the Univer- 
sity of Edinburgh. 

In 1864 Sir David's s&n, Admiral Sir Alexander Milne, visited 
the cave and found that two small knobs of lime deposit was the total 
formation produced on the stump by five recurrent drops of water 
during the intervening 44 years. He had these knobs carefully re- 
moved, and they are now to be seen in the Edinburgh Museum. From 
his measurements he estimated that the stalagmite itself had required 
600,000 years for its formation. 

This cave is nearly 3 acres in extent. A descent of 40 steps 
leads to the first .platform, from which the lower level is reached 
by an easy gradient. The chief feature of the first chamber is 
the freakish formation of the stalactites, some as thin as oaten 
straws ; others stouter, audi bearing a close resemblance to the 
flower of the banana; while here and there are bunches of mag- 
nified radishes and other vegetable forms reproduced with start- 
ling exactitude. 

Advancing further downward, we reach the Organ Chamber. In 
the middle stands an immense column roughly approximating to an 
elliptical shape, and measuring 12 ft. by 9 ft. In the centre the 
formation is solid, the stalactites having united with the stalagmites. 
But on the circumference the union is not yet complete. The guide 
strikes a row of columns with an iron rod, and the sequence of notes 
is distinctly musical, though rather high-pitched, resembling a xylophone. 

Still descending, the path leads, on R., to a chamber containing 
a lake, whose waters communicate with Castle Harbour, and rise and 
fall with the tide. This chamber is directly under the North Shore 
Road, and the rumbling of passing vehicles can be distinctly heard, 
one of the last objects shown to visitors is the base from which Admiral 
Milne cut the stalactite. The auger holes are still plainly visible. 

The Joyce's Dock Caves (PI. Ill— P3), a few hundred 
yards E. have been explored by sightseers of three cen- 
miral's Cave, have been explored by sightseers of three cen- 
turies. They are five in number, but only two are open to the 
public : the Cathedral Cave, so named because it contains a huge 
stalagmite fashioned like a pulpit; and the Island Cave, re- 
cently rechristened Prospero's Magic Cave, from a popular be- 
lief that it was this cave which inspired scenes in Shakespeare's 
The Tempest. These caves had suffered from the smokey torches 
of goneratiops of earlier explorers ; but the present proprietor 
has had much of the accumulated soot removed, and also has 
much improved the approaches. Admission 75 cents or z/'^- 

The Cathedral Cave is entered through a gateway of natural rock. 
A graded concrete walk leads the visitor down beside a lake, such as 
is common to all these caves. Ascending a few stone steps, one becomes 



84 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

aware of a faint light where stray sunbeams have penetrated crannies 
in the roof. In general the roof formations resemble those of the 
Admiral's Cave. There are the same straw-like pendants, the same 
bunches of radishes, carrots, etc. Observe near the entrance a mass 
of heavy red soil, buried under a thick stratum of hard limestone, 
suggesting at some remote period, some sort of landslide. 

Prospero's Magic Cave is of greater extent than the Cathedral 
Cave ; and in its centre lies a lake covering half an acre, out of which 
rises perpendicularly, through 30 feet of water, a huge block of 
crystal, forming an islarid some 6 or 7 ft. high. The guide points out, 
in the stalagmite formations, a natural Bust of Shakespeare ; also other 
forms which some stretch of imagination has identified respectively as 
Prospero, Ferdinand and Miranda, Trinculo, Sycorax, Ariel and Calaban. 

One of the legends of this cave is to the effect that in the days of 
Admiral Somers, one Robert Walters, who murdered a fellow sailor 
named Edward Sannel, by striking him ''under the lift of the ear," 
was concealed here by his comrades, until, through mediation of 
the good Admiral, his death sentence was respited by Sir Thomas Gates. 

Castle Grotto Cave and the Blue Hole are reached by a 
road branching southward from the beginning of the Cause- 
way (p. 100) ; or from the south by the continuation of this 
same cross-road which passes through the Walsingham gTounds, 
connecting with the Harrington Sound Road. 

Castle Grotto Cave consists of three chambers, each reached by a 
separate entrance. The northern chamber can be visited only by boat, 
which the guide propells beneath a low arching roof, hung with fan- 
tastic shapes shading from vivid pink through gray to snow white. 

Blue Hole, a short distance from Castle Grotto, is a small body of 
water forming a natural aquarium, and believed to be the lower portion 
of what was once a cave, the roof of which must long ago. have fallen 
in. It usually contains an interesting collection of Bermuda .fishes, 
including the Blue Angel Fish, Sergeant Major, the Red Rock Fish, the 
Spanish Hog Fish, the Red Snapper and the Queen Turbot. 

(For continuation of North Shore Road, see p. 100). 
a. Side Excursion to Coney Island 

Coney Island, 14 acres in extent, liies at the N. E. ex- 
tremity of the main Island, facing the W. end of St. George's, 
with the northern entrance to Castle Harbour between them. It 
is reached by the little used Old Ferry Road (p. 82), which 
branches off from the North Shore Road % "li. E, of Bailey's 
Bay. 

Until the coniipletion, in 1871, of the long Causeway (p. 100) 
across Castle Harbour, the only means of reaching St. George's from 
the main island was by ferry across the inlet from Coney Island to 
Ferry Point; and for 259 years this ferry was maintained, subject to 
frequent sus.pension of traffic, many hours at a time, when heavy north- 
erly gales made the crossing too dangerous. In the pioneer day-- of the 
CoJony an annual tax of 1 1 pounds of tobacco was levied ujx>n every 
inhabitant above the age of 16 years, for the maintenance of the ferry; 
but about 1629 a special Act was enacted, setting apart the western 
portion of St. George's and all of Coney Island to produce tobacco for 
that purpose. 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES 85 

Coney Island has been connected by bridge with the main Island 
since 1620, this bridge being one of the provisions of the first recorded 
Act of Bermuda's first established Legislature. It should be noted, by 
the way, that the name ot the Island antedates by many years that of 
New York's pleasure resort, being one of the very few names found in 
the earliest annals of Bermuda. 

The chief attraction on this seldom visited island, is a 
small Natural Aquarium, comparatively little known, but 
similar in character and origin to the Devil's Hole, having 
no doubt once been a cavern, the roof of which has since fallen 
in. It lies on the R. side of the road, just beyond the short 
causeway which now leads to the Island, and is enclosed only 
by a rough board fence. The rocky sides of the pool are 
perpendicular, and in some places overhanging; and the trans- 
parent water at the bottom is of considerable depth. 

"On a calm day, large numbers of interesting fishes, some of them 
of large size, can be seen leisurely hunting for food among the masses 
of fallen rock at the bottom. The principal fishes noticed here are the 
'Sea Lawyers' or Gray Snappers . , . There were also large blue 
Parrot-fishes, Pirate-fishes, and several other kinds. They are said to 
have entered this place through small hidden crevices when young, but 
cannot now escape." — A. E. Vcrrill. 

The one conspicuous landmark still standing on Coney 
Island is a weather-beaten old Salt House, used for almost 
a century for storing the salt brought from Turk's Island 
for transshipment to American ports (see History, p. XXX). 

"There is an interesting little land-locked cove on the Island, with 
a shell-sand beach, representing an intermediate stage, of the destructive 
encroachment of the sea. It is connected with the open water only by 
a narrow channel, between high limestone ledges, barely wide enough to 
allow passage for a row-boat. 

IV. Harrington Sound, from Flatts Village Cross- 
ways to Bailey's Bay 

Harrington Sound, bounded on S.W. by Smith's, but 
lying mainly within Hamilton Parish, is a landlocked body ot 
water, 2% mi. in length, from Tucker^s Bay to Shark's Hole, 
and i^ mi. at greatest width, from the Devil's Hole to My 
Lord's Bay. Thanks to its sheltered position, its surface is usually 
calm, making boating trips practicable in weather that prohibits 
outside excursions. The shallower water near the Flatts and 
around Trunk Island afifords excellent opportunities for study- 
ing submarine life ; and much of the finest scenery can be best 
seen from the water. Boats can usually be procured at the 
Flatts, (terms should be agreed upon in advance). 

Origin of name. Lucy Russell, Countess of Bedford, from whom 
the Parish was originally named "Bedford," was daughter of John, first 
Lord Harrington of Ext'on, Rutland. Upon transferral of her interests 



86 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

to James, Marquis of Hamilton, the name of the Paiish was changed to 
"Harrington and Hamilton"; but the honors were shortly divided be- 
tween Hamilton Parish and Harrington Sound. 

The geological interest of Harrington Sound is emphasized by 
Prof. Angelo Heilprin: "The Sound is now actually making, and with- 
out question it has been in this condition of self-formation for a long 
time past. The ledges, islands and isolated rocks all speak of destruc- 
tion, and of the former occupancy of the basin by dry land. At the 
present time the general depth of the Sound may be taken at about 
45 to 60 feet, although our line frequently sounded 12 fathoms: the 
greatest measurement was made at the Devil's Hole, where the line ran 
out 14 fathoms." 

This varying depth of water makes the Sound habitable for 
a great variety of fish, including many deep-sea species. The 
only visible entrance from the Ocean is through the Inlet at 
the Flatts. The existence, however, of subterranean passages 
is suspected; which may account for the failure of the Fishing 
Board's attempt in 191 1, to make the Sound a huge Government 
Fish Preserve, by prohibiting fishing, and placing gates at the 
Inlet. In FeS., 1914, the experiment was abandoned, and fishing 
licenses were again issued upon payment of 5s. 

From Flatts Village Crossways (p. 77), the Sound Road 
runs eastward, passing on L., in grounds of Palmetto Grove 
(p. 77), a large mahogany tree, over 7 ft. in circumference, 
(dating from about 1840. It was in reference to this tree that 
Mark Twain wrote that a friend assured him that "there was 
at least one mahogany tree in Bermuda, because he had counted 
it many times." Further on we pass, on R., Villa Mont Clare 
and Villa Montecello , both formerly the property of the late 
William Whitney, for many years Deputy Consul for the United 
States at Bermuda (appointed Dec. 10, 1872). Villa Mont 
Clare, Mr. Whitney's residence, is now the Smith Parish Rec- 
tory. The road now skirts the shore of the Sound, passing 
(iVi mi.) Lion Rock, a curious rock-sculpture projecting from 
the water, carved by the waves from the natural formation of 
limestone. Just beyond, on R. Knapton Hill Road hranches off 
to S.W., leading to the South Shore. Cyclists are cautioned 
against this road, because of the long, steep hill. 

A few rods beyond Knapton Hill we reach, on R., the 
Devil's Hole or Neptune's Grotto, a natural fish pond con- 
nected by subterranean crevices with the sea. It was originally 
a cavern, the roof of which must have fallen in at some re- 
mote period. Stalactites and Stalagmites are still to be seen 
in course of formation around the side walls. _ Although barely 
50 yards distant from the shore, the waters in the Hole have 
no known connection with Harrington Sound, but come from 
the Ocean on the South Shore which is 1/5 mi. away at the 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES 87 

nearest point. The name, Devil's Hole, is said to have come 
from suiperstiitious fears caused by the strange subterranean 
noises made by the water when entering at very low tide. Since 
first opened to the public in 1834 as an aquarium, it has been one 
of Bermuda's chief attractions. W(ith an average depth of 
30 ft., the pool has a capacity of many hundred fishes. They 
are mostly large "Hamlets," or "Hamlet Groupers," with a few 
green Angel-fish, Oldwives or "Turbots," etc. Entrance fee, 2s. 

Just beyond the Devil's Hole a comparatively new road 
runs S.E. to the iSouth Shore at Gravelly Beach (PI. IH— N6) 
and ^ mi. further on a second branch road leads to Mangrove 
Lake and Tucker's Town (p. 97). Continuing N.W, on the 
Sound Road, we reach (2^ mi.) Shark's Hole, a large 
natural archway or tunnel, opening from the Sound and lead- 
ing far under the cliff, with water in it deep enough for a large 
boat to enter for a considerable distance. Corals, sponges and 
seaweed may be seen growing in the bottom, and schools of 
large "Sea Lawyers," or Gray Snappers and other fishes, are 
often seen swimming in plain view. Fine collections of stalac- 
tites from this cave are preserved in the National Museum at 
Washington, and in that of Wesleyan University, Middletown. 

According to H. B. Small the botanist of Bermuda: "Dr. Aggeus 
Outerbridge once penetrated Shark's Hole until prevented by the roof 
from further progress. . . . But from actual measurements he 
was sure that he neared the Castle Harbour submarine entrance. I 
think that no one else has attempted the passage." 

The two boundary stones which stand nearby, on the Shore 
Road, mark a strip of land reserved to St. George's Parish as 
a right of way to the Sound for residents of Tucker's Town, 
which ibelongs to that Parish. Directly opposite Shark's Hole 
is the entrance gate to Paynter's Vale, the old homestead of 
the Paynter family, later successively owned by the Penistons 
and Mussons. It is now once again in possession of Penis- 
tons, who have entirely rebuilt the old house, which had fallen 
into decay. Near the main entrance stands a magnificent Fid- 
dlewood tree, the parent tree of all Bermuda Fiddlewoods. sent 
from Barbadoes in 1828 by John Paynter Musson to his father 
John Musson. 

An avenue of cedars leads E. from the house to the old family 
burial place of the Pajaiter family, whose initials and dates of death are 
still legible on the gravestones. The nearby Paynter's Hi'I, which is 
quite steep (194 ft.), affords a fine view of the Sound, with Flatts 
Bridge and Village in the distance. A few hundred feet northward 
is Chalk Cave, a small cavern in which tradition says, an old negro 
woman lived and kept a pig for many years. Continuing E. down the 
slope to Castle Harbour shore, one reaches the old Government Lime- 
stone Quarry, containing some of the hardest limestone on the Island, 



88 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

from which large blocks have been taken for building fortifications. Just 
S. of the quarry. Captain John Paynter, about 1750, erected for the 
storage of cargoes the building later used as a canteen; and some 70 
yards to the S.E. is a cave called Cooper's Hole, which was also used 
as a store house when the other was full. 

A quarter mile further on formerly stood, on L., the popu- 
lar Harrington House destroyed hy fire in 1913. It was here 
that Prof. Verrill and his party stayed during his second scien- 
tific expedition in 1901. Nearby, on R., is Leamington Cave, 
lighted and opened to the public in Jan., 1912. The entrance 
is in the side of a hill or bluff, on a level with the road at only 
a few yards' distance. Entrance fee, 4s. If the tourist has 
time to visit only one of the Bermuda caves, the. popular ver- 
dict is about evenly divided between Leamington Cave and 
Crystal Cave (p. 90) in point of interest and beauty. 

From the almost circular entrance chamber, the visitor 
descends to the L., by a succession of short stairways, along a 
horseshoe curve leading to a central platform from which there 
is a general view of the entire cave. Facing N. one looks 
through a natural arch down to the little pool of clear sea wa- 
ter some 30 ft. below. Steps on R. lead to the upper cave, with 
narrow fissures giving glimpses of unexplored portions ; and 
on L. a path curves downward nearly to the shore of the pool. 
The guide points out, among other curious rock formations, 
a giant Alligator, a miniature reproduction of Niagara Falls, 
and a Castle on the Rhine. ; Note especially, on L., before reach- 
ing central platform, a giant stalagmite column which some 
convulsion of nature has fractured diagonally, with a visible 
settling of the roof portion for several inches. 

"The most beautiful stalactite formations that we saw were in 
the Peniston Cave, near the Harrington House. ... It descends with 
a steep slope for about 80 ft. The sloping roof is hung with thousands 
of beautiful, slender, white stalactites, many of them very small, not 
much larger than a lead pendil, and still forming, for needle-like crystals 
of limestone can be seen forming in the drop of clear water that is 
suspended from the tip. This cave also contains elegant drapery-like 
deposits of white stalactites, in many varieties." — A. E. Verrill. 

Continuing northward, the Sound Road passes (3 1/3 m^-) 
the main entrance to Walsingham, popularly known as "Tom 
Aloore's House" (see p. 91). Here the road bends W., pass- 
ing the A.M.E. church of St. Johns and a schoolhouse, at the 
cor. where Wilkinson Ave. branches north. A quarter mile 
further, along the Sound, we reach, opposite Church Bay, the 
Hamilton Parish Church of — 

Holy Trinity. One of the oldest church buildings in Ber- 
muda, although the exact date of its erection is unknown. Ac- 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES 89 

cording to Lefroy, a church was erected in 1622 on the Glebe 
to the S.E. of Harrington Sound for the use of Hamilton and 
Smith Tribes ; but this was found inconvenient, and in 1623 per- 
mission was given to each Tribe or Parish to select its own site 
and build its own church. There is a tradition that the first 
site chosen for the Hamilton Parish Church was at Shelly Bay ; 
but if so, it was removed to its present location not later than 
1669; and the N. and S. walls of the building then erected are 
incorporated in the present structure. Major Jonathan Outer- 
bridge, who superintended repairs in 1713, recorded in his diary 
that the church was then over 50 years old; and one piece of 
the Communion plate bears the inscription : "This was given 
by George Ball to the church in Hambelton Tribe in 1677." 

History. The land on which the church stands was given by William 
Wrighton and by Samuel Trott of Walsingham; each of whom confirmed 
the gift in their wills dated respectively Oct. 30, 1690, and May 16, 
1669. Since Samuel Trott's time several additional gifts of land have 
been made by the Outerbridge family of Bailey's Bay, who inherited 
the property from an ancestress, Mary Trott. After the great storm 
of 1713, the original roof of palmetto thatch was replaced with one of 
stone. The church was originallj' 58 ft. long; the nave, however, has 
been lengthened and a transept and chancel added, making the present 
dimensions loi ft. long by 25 ft. wide. In 1895 a tower and spire were 
added (W. D. Wilkinson, architect), and: a bell, the largest in Bermuda, 
given in memory of Rev. Alexander Ewing, Rector of the Parish 1791- 
1817. The porch at the W. end of the nave was added in 1899. 

The chancel, built in 1892, contains six memorial windows by Ballen- 
tine & Son, of Edinburgh: East End Windows, i. The Baptism of 
Our Lord; 2. Moses; 3. St. Paul. North and South Windows, i. 
Elijah; 2. St. John; 3. St. Peter — the last named being "In memory 
of Samuel L. Trott, who died A. D. 1669, donor of the land on which 
this church was built." Six other windows have recently been added 
in the nave, one of them, the Haycock memorial, being the work of 
Morris, London, from a design by Burne Jones. 

Mt. Wyndham (150 ft), directly N. of Holy Trinity 
Church, was once temporarily the Admiralty House (p. 67). 
having served as the official residence of Admiral Sir J. B. 
Warren during 1812-14. The house, commanding a view both 
of St. George's Harbour and Grassy Bay, enabled him to 
watch the warships and receive signals from either anchorage. 
In recent years Mt, Wyndham has been the residence of 
Mr. John S. Darrell. 

Mr. John S. Darrell who retired from active business in 1920, has 
the distinction of being the oldest living public servant in Bermuda. He 
was for many years a representative of Hamilton Parish in the Assembly. 
He was consul for the Netherlands since 1887; consul for Portugal 
since 1883; and. consul for Denmark since 1879. Through special 
appointment by the Archbishop of Canterbury, he was notary public for 
Bermuda, and numerous other British Colonies. 

^ North of Holy Trinity, is the residential district known as 
Bailey's Bay, reached by Wilkinson Ave. (so named because 



90 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

the abutting property is or formerly was, all owned by the Wil- 
kinson family). About midway on R,, is the Hamilton Parish 
Lyceum, erected 1875. The school rooms are on the groinid 
floor. Upstairs is a hall used for concerts, theatricals and other 
entertainments. Nearby, also on R., is the entrance to — 

Crystal Cave and Cahow Lake. This cave, one of the 
most recent as well as most spectacular attractions in Bermuda, 
was discovered in Jan., 1907, by two colored boys who had the 
curiosity to remove a large stone which they found was loose, 
and revealed a hole into which they descended. When first 
opened to the public, in Jan., 1908, the entrance was at the top 
oif the cave, and the visitor descended 140 steps (90 ft.). In 
1914 a new entrance was blasted on the outside ground level. 
At the bottom of the cave lies Cahow Lake, 90 ft. wide and 
250 ft. long, with a depth varying from 15 to 25 ft. A pontoon 
bridge crosses the Lake from end to end. From the roof de- 
pend thousands of stalactites, some no larger than a knitting 
needle, others conical masses, pure as crystal and a foot in 
diameter at the base. The guide points out, among other fan- 
tastic shapes, the Palace of the Fairy Queen, and, half way 
across the bridge under an archway, the Dreams of the Poets. 
Beyond the bridge is some especially wonderful tracery, sug- 
gesting the architecture of ancient cathedrals and abbeys. The 
cave is lighted by electricity. Entrance fee, 4s. 

Cahow Lake takes its name from the discovery in one of the cham- 
bers of bones and fossilized feathers of the Cahaw, a species of bird 
once very plentiful, but being stupid and easily caught it was exter- 
minated by the hungry colonists about 1630. The fragments found in 
Crystal Cave prove it to have been about the size of a pigeeon, with 
hooked bill and webbed feet. 

Wonderland Cave is situated at Whitby, near the cor. 
where Wilkinson Ave. meets the North Shore Road (4 mi.). 
It has a depth of about 65 ft., and like nearly all Bermuda caves 
there is a lake at the bottom. The roof has been compared to 
the dome of a cathedral, and this illusion has been heightened 
by massive columns of stalactite formation. The special fea- 
ture of this cave is that in place of the dazzling whiteness of 
the Crystal Cave, the stalactites show a great variety of color- 
ing, ranging from pure alabaster through pinks and sulphurous 
yellows to a bluish black. (PI. Ill— P3). 

Trunk Island. The only important island in Harrington 
Sound is Trunk Island, containing approximately 3 acres. 
Here in the seventies, the Hon. A. J. Musson, then Senior 
Member of the Council, established a sort of Rdbinson Crusoe 
residence. 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES 91 

V. Walsingham 

Walsingham House, an almost unique specimen of the 
early colonial type, is picturesquely situated on the N. shore of 
Walsingham Bay, Castle Harbour, reached by the Harrington 
Sound Road, ^ mi. E. of Wilkinson Ave. (p. 88). It bears 
one of the few names dating- back to the earliest days of the 
Colony, commemorating the discoverer of the Bay, Mr. 
Walsingham, is Annette Kellermann, the swimmer, whose 
Neptune's Daughter, was photographed chiefly in the immedi- 
ate neighborhood of Walsingham. 

The estate descended by entail for several generations, until a later 
Samuel Trott, President of Bermuda, 1810-11, died without male issue. 
Subsequently it was acquired by F. K. Outerbridge; and after standing 
vacant for some years was opened in 1912 as a popular road-house, under 
the management of J. A. Fuller, who restored it with antique furnish- 
ings, and advertised it as "The Poet Tom Moore's House." During 
the World War it again_ closed its doors; but in 1921 was again thrown 
open as a place of conviviality by its present host, Mr. Travers. 

The main W. entrance admits the visitor to a wide hallway 
with doors opening, on R., into a small sitting room, and on 
L., into the present large dining-room, formed by removal of 
the original partition which separated the former front parlor 
from the room with the big open fireplace, which tradition 
has labeled "Tom Moore's Room." All the interior wood is 
of native cedar, which time has mellowed to a deep rich tone. 

The fame of Walsingham is due mainly to the legend that Moore 
made it his headquarters during his four months' sojourn in Bermuda 
Jan. -May, 1803, as Registrar of the Court of Admiralty. Even Howells 
accepts this legend when he writes of "the quaint old house where 
blythe Tom Moore dwelt in his brief exile from the London drawing- 
rooms he loved." Prof. Verrill's judgment is less romantic but saner: 

"Moore may have been an occasional or a frequent guest at Walsing- 
ham House, but there is no evidence that he ever remained there over 
night. The room that is called 'Tom Moore's Room' was really the 
dining-room, as I was assured by persons who resided in the house before 
it was altered." 

That Moore's poetic fancy was caught by the native loveliness of 
the Islands is abundantly proved both by his verse and by extant letters 
to his mother. His residence was cut short solely because his office 
proved disappointingly unlucrative: "So many courts have been estab- 
lished that this of Bermuda has but few prize causes referred to it, 
and even a Spanish war would make my income by no means worth 
staying for." Accordingly he sublet his appointment to a deputy, who 
later cost him dearly; for in 1818 the deputy was guilty of embezzlement, 
and the absentee poet was held liable for claims amounting to 1,000 
guineas, toward which an uncle of the deputy contributed £300. 

A more recent public character to be identified with 
Walsingham, is Annette Kellermann, the swimmer, whose chief 
moving picture success, Neptune's Daughter, was photographed 
in Bermuda, and chieflv in the immediate neighborhood of 
Walsingham. Incidentally, this was the first time in the history 



92 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

of motion pictures that a cave 90 ft. below the surface was 
successfully photographed. 

The most important scene taken was that of the Witch's Cave, in 
which Miss Kellermann, as Annette, the Mermaid, swims first through 
Shark's Hole (p. 66), and then through the maze of stalactites in 
the Crystal Cave (p. 90) to the spot chosen for the home of the Sea 
Witch, where she begs to be transformed into a mortal. Later episodes 
were taken in Castle Grotto Cavq (p. 84), which served as the throne 
room of Neptune. 

Moore's Calabash Tree. Some distance N. from the 
house still stands the ancient Calabash tree which Moore im- 
mortalized in lines to his friend, Joseph Atkinson, closing with 
the verses : 

"Twas thus by the shade of a calabash tree 
With a few who can feel and remember like me. 

The charm that to sweeten my goblet I threw, 
Was a tear to the past and a blessing on you." 

Walsingham Caves. Not far from the Calabash tree, 
near the N. W. shore of Castle Harbour, are several rather 
large caves, although of relatively less importance than Leam- 
ington, Crystal or the Joyce's Dock Caves. The one nearest 
to the Calabash tree has two entrances, one considerably higher 
than the other. The path descends through a long, irregular 
colonnade, bordered with large columns of stalactite formation, 
and enlarging at times into vaulted chambers of considerable 
height. 

"This cavern seems to have been at one time the subterranean 
channel of a stream of water of considerable volume. Probably it was 
connected with several other caves, some of which are now represented 
only by the adjacent sinks. . . . There are several sinks, with abrupt 
sides and nearly full of sea water. They are evidently the ruins of 
caverns. One, clo?e to the Walsingham House, apppears to be of con- 
siderable depth. The bottom was not visible in strong sunshine." — 
A. E. Verrill. 

Near the cave above described is another, consisting of a 
single large room, with a high sloping roof hung with many 
large stalactites, the largest beiiig over a foot in diameter, and 
from six to ten feet long, some of them descending into the 
pool, which covers most of the floor, and has a depth of from 
15 to 20 ft. 

VI. The South Road from Hamilton to Tucker's 
Town 

Go eastward on Front St. and East Broadway, passing 
Lane Hill on L. (p. 78). and the Lane SchooUiousc on R.. to E. 
end of harbor or "Foot of the Lane" (so called from the old 
name, Croiv Lane Harbour). The whole tract of land on the 
water side, extending from the Lane School to the foot of 



THE CENTIL\L PARISHES 93 

the harbor, is Pembroke Hall, ancestral home of the Dill 
family, and for many years the residence of the late Thomas 
S. Reid, Mayor of Hamilton, 1898-1907, whose wife was 
Frances Russell Dill. The five Mountain Cabbage Palms 
(Oreodox^ oleracea) which flank the garden wall, constitute 
one of Bermuda's most famous landmarks. They were sent from 
Granada by Mrs. Reid's brother, Lucius Dill, about 1830 and 
now stand ahout 70 ft. high, with a base girth of ovfer 8 ft. 

"These are not the largest or the tallest trees I have ever seen, 
but thej^ are the stateliest, the most majestic. That row of them must 
be the nearest that Nature has ever come to counterfeiting a colonnade. 
. . . They stand as straight as the Colonnade of Baalbec; they have 
its great height; they have its gracefulness, they have its dignity; in 
moonlight or twilight, and shorn of their plumes, they would duplicate 
it." — Mark Twain. 

At the end of the harbor is the spot where, according to 
tradition, an old negress, Sally Bassett, convicted of murdering 
her master, was burned at the stake, June, 1730. The day of 
execution having been exceptionally warm gave rise to a popu- 
lar phrase, "Regular Sally Bassett Day," still current among 
colored people in Bermuda to describe an especially hot day. 

Just around the end of the harbour, opposite the main 
entrance to Inglezvood, the ancestral estate of the Trimingham 
family, is a junction with another road, leading on R. to the 
North Shore and Middle Roads, to the western Parishes, and 
on L., tO' Springfield Ave., beyond which it continues as Berry 
Hill Road — so named from former estate of the late Dr. Henry 
J. Hinson, whose title extended S. to the shore of Hungry Bay. 

Inglewood. The Triminghams are an old and prominent Bermuda 
family, descended from John Trimingham of Doncaster, England, Gov- 
ernor of Bermuda, in 1649. When Princess Louise visited Bermuda in 
Jan. -April, 1882, the Hon. James H. Trimingham placed at her disposal 
the present modern residence, completed in 1879. 

A few rods E., Springfield Ave., better known as Point 
Finger Road, branches S., with Springfield at E. cor., con- 
spicuous with its fine growth of bamboo {Bambiisa arundin- 
acea). Berry Hill Road, passing N., of Springfield, leads to: 
Abbotsford, a replica of Sir Walter Scott's famous home, and 
for several years a popular suburban hotel ; Montrose, and 
Camden, where the Tucker arrowroot mill was formerly 
visited by many tourists in Feb. and March. 

Turning S., on Point Finger Road (so called from the old 
"Point Finger" sign-post, formerly standing at S. junction with 
the main road), we reach about midway on L., the new Ed- 
ivard VII Memorial Hospital, begun in 191 7, and opened in the 
summer of 1920. 



94 RIDER'S BERAIUDA 

Bermuda had long lacked a suitable public hospital until, in 1887, 
the first steps were taken to establish the Cottage Hospital (p. 78), near 
Prospect. Having until recently no endowment fund, its efficiencj' was 
necessarily limited, and so late as 191 1 there was but one free bed 
available. All the Cottage Hospital property, including several recent 
generous bequests, reverts to the use of the new Memorial Hospital. 
When first opened there were 24 beds, two operating rooms and accom- 
modation for IS nurses. Capacity when completed, 64 beds. 

Adjoining the Hospital on S, is the W. entrance to the 
Public Garden, or Bermuda Agricultural Station, established by- 
Act of Legislature in i8^, which limited the land purchased 
to ID acres, and the cost to £1550, plus £550 for buildings. The 
land acquired forms an L-shaped tract, the longer side running 
S. to the main road. 

The Agricultural Station is under control of the Board of Agricul- 
ture. It conducts systematic experimental work on new species and 
varieties suited to Bermuda; on improved methods of culture; together 
with investigation of the various plant diseases, which in recent years 
have greatly damaged the Islands' export trade. The gardens are well 
worth a visit, and are open to the public from sunrise to sunset. 

At the junction point, popularly called Point Finger, the 
main highway runs E. and W., constituting, on R., the Middle 
Road to the western Parishes, and on L., the South Road, lead- 
ing to Harrington Sound and Tucker's Town. Following the 
E. branch, we presently reach a by-path leading S. to an 
irregular inlet known as — 

Hungry Bay (i % mi.), a name popularly explained as 
due to the voracity with which the sea beats upon and eats 
away the shore. It contains one of the most typical Bermudian 
Mangrove swamps. On the E. point of the narrow entrance 
are the ruins of an old fort. Of the special attraction that 
Hungry Bay offers to naturalists. Prof. E. L. Mark writes 
as foillows: 

"The entrance to the Bay is narrow and rocky, yet a great variety 
of animals are blown in by the southerly winds, and the place has thus 
become a rich collecting ground for great numbers of worms and other 
invertebrates. Upon turning over these rocks the bottom seems alive 
with creatures of many kinds. Only half the booty is seen, however, 
unless the rocks are broken into fragments. Thus are set free boring 
mollusks, annelids and many other forms that find a lair in the tortuous 
passages of the honeycombed limestones." 

Hungry Bay is the best place on the Islands for studying 
the haJbits of the curious freak of nature known as the tree- 
climbing marine crab. 

"I visited Hungry Bay specially with the intention of watching and 
obtaining specimens of a crab, which, is well known to the Bermudians, 
from its habit of ascending the mangrove trees. This is the Grapsus 
cruentatus Latr., known from Brazil and the Antilles. It inhabits the 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES 95 

holes seen everywhere in the soft and moist brown earth near thei man- 
grove trees. The larger of these holes have a diameter of three to four 
inehes, and they go down to a depth of three or four feet, as deep down 
indeed as the moist earth itself. Wet mud was found at the bottom of 
each hole, so that when the crabs are sitting in these there is plenty 
of moisture for their gills, and when on the mangrove trees they are 
noticed, from time to time, retiring into the pools which are met with 
under each tree. This explains the astonishing fact that a member of 
the Grapsoidea has been able to take up the habits of a Gecarcinoid 
without having the anatomical apparatus." — Report of the Challenger, 
vol. I. 

About a mile beyond Hungry Bay a cross road leads N. to 
the Middle Road, near old Devonshire Church (p. 80) ; and a 
few rods further a by-way leads S. to Old Devonshire Fort, 
overlooking Devonshire Bay, one of the earliest forts built to 
protect the S. coast. It was abandoned many years ago ; and only 
a few ruins remain. Passing on R., Harris Bay (now Site 
Wood Bay on official maps), we reach (2^ mi.), just beyond 
the boundary line between Devonshire and Smith's Parishes, a 
fork where Collector's Hill diverges on L., running N. to the 
Middle Road and the Flatts. This road was named from Col- 
lector Salton, who long lived at The Hermitage, adjoining the 
present Lunatic Asylum, and later the winter home of J. Mat- 
thew Jones, the naturalist. In the angle formed by the road 
stands Centenary Chapel (Meth.), reseated and refurnished in 
1885. Continuing on South Road, we reach (3^^ mi.) — 

St. Mark's Church, Smith Parish. The earliest church 
building in this Parish is believed to have been erected in 1620, 
probably near Tucker's Town. The earliest building near the 
present site stood in the cemetery grounds on S. side of the 
road, erected about 1746, on land given by Col. Corbusier. 
When, in 1846, the walls of the old building were found to be 
too unsafe to permit of repairs, plans were made to build a new 
church on the present site, donated 'by Mrs. Sarah Trott and 
her sister. Miss Mary Sears. The first service was held on 
Easter Day, 1848. The south porch was added in 1866; and 
the tower and spire in 1874, from designs by Dr. Henry J. 
Hinson. The chancel and vestry were completed in March, 
1887. from plans by Edzvard Peniston. 

Memorial Windows. The chancel windows are by James Ball en- 
tine & Sons, Edinburgh: East window, a triple lancet, of which the 
base subject is The T^st Supper; above is The Ascension, with St. 
Mark, on N. and St. Paul, on S. The three lancets are memorials (L. 
to R.) to Rev. Alexander Ewing, rector, 1791-1817; to W. J. Trott 
and wife and to members of tlie Zuill family. The north choir window, 
by Camm. & Co., Birmingham; Dorcas distributing Gifts to the Poor; 
and. The Faithful Steward; memorial to Harley and Adelaide S. 
Trott. The iwo Trott windows were both erected by Dr. Dudley C. 
Trott, one of Bermuda's best known physicians, in memory respectively 
of his parents and grandparents. 



96 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

The Mural Inscriptions include: one in memory of William Ed- 
ward Newman, 1795-1869, architect and builder of the church; to 
Gilbert Selton, Collector of Customs 1770-1839 (from whom Collector's 
Hill was named; see p. 80); and a tablet in memory of the Sons of 
Smith's Parish who fell in, the WotM War. 

Especially noteworthy is the recently installed pulpit (1909) of 
light and dark mahogany, with six panels carved in high relief, with 
flowers appropriate to Bermuda: Easter Lily, Eucharist Lily, CaUa Lily, 
Oleander. Carnation and Wild Rose.. Designed by W . D. Wilkinson. 

The church bell was a gift from the late William Whitney. An 
older, and much smaller bell, cast, according to French inscription, at 
Nantes, in 1771, formerly hung upon a cedar tree, blown down about 
1848. Its presence in Bermuda is a mystery, but it is supposed to 
have been brought from the French West Indies, during the Napole- 
onio Wars. It now hangs in the Whitney Institute (p. 80). 

Governor Reid's Model Farm. A pathway leads from 
S.W. cor. of the Parish graveyard southward to the site of the 
"Model Farm," established by Governor Reid (1839-46), under 
superintendence of two Scotchmen, Fox and McGall, for the 
purpose of demonstrating to the Islanders improved methods 
of agriculture, and the superiority of the modern plough over 
the heavy English hoe of slavery days. During Governor Reid's 
administration the farm prospered; but after his departure it 
remained idle several years, and then passed into private owner- 
ship. Its memory, however, still survives in the name of Mc- 
Gall' s Hill, overlooking McGalfs Bay. (PI. Ill— 'M6). 

A quarter mile beyond St. Mark's the road forks, the Knap- 
ton Hill Road, on L., leading to the Devil's Hole (p. 86), wh^le 
the R. branch is a military road to Tucker's Town, and skirts 
the South Shore almost continually, until beyond Trott's Bay. 
Just beyond the Knapton Hill fork we pass Spittal Pond on L.. 
a narrow pool about Vi mi. long. Here are the garrison rifle 
ranges, with the targets at E. end of the Pond. Visitors should 
note the danger Hags displayed on the road eastward of targets. 
On the South Shore, almost exactly opposite the middle point 
of Spittal Pond, is — 

Spanish Rock (PI. Ill — M6), the oldest historical relic 
in the Islands. The monogram on this rock, with a cross and 
date, 1543, is popularly attributed to a Portuguese, Theodoro 
Ferdinando Camelo, from the Island of St. Michael, Azores, 
who, in 1527, received from, the King of iSpain an abortive 
charter for the settlement of Bermuda. The inscription is on 
the face of a flattened rock, a little below the crest of a clifif 
some 50 ft. high, which rises like a steep flight of steps from 
the beach below. To reach the rock, the visitor must skirt the 
Pond, crossing two fields which for many years have been the 
property of the Peniston famih^ The lettering, originally 
deeply cut, had gradually become less dictinct through weath- 



THE CENTRAL PARISHES 97 

ering, and the vandalism of visitors. It is now, however, sub- 
stantially protected from further harm by a plate glass cover- 
ing, one of the earliest official acts of the present Governor 
Willcocks. 

"On my first arrival I sought out this rock and found the inscrip- 
tion consisting of the initials, the year and a cross, were being ob- 
literated by climatic conditions, as well as being gradually spoiled by 
vicious visitors, eager to carve their names in juxtaposition to the 
hardy old mariner's. It was a great pleasure to me to be able to 
cover the inscription with a plate glass set in cement and cedar; to 
obliterate the obnoxious initials of our modern travelers and to put 
in a brass plate, on which is copied the original design." (Tercentenary 
Address, Aug, 3, 1920) 

There is no evidence that Camelo ever visited Bermuda. If the 
monogram, which now resembles T K or F K, stands for his name, 
the C must have disappeared by weathering. This is the theory of 
Thomas Scott Cunningham, of Chicago who in 1893 took a leaden cast 
of the inscription (now in the Museum of Hamilton), which clearly 
shows a depression between the letters T F and the cross of St. George, 
that indicates the possible location of a former C. Many, however, 
will agree with Prof, A. E. Verrill that "it is more probable that this 
is the only known record of the survivors of some disastrous ship- 
wreck in 1543, Possibly only a single individual survived, and he 
may have lived alone for years like Robinson Crusoe. ... It 
is probably one of the mementoes of the supposed visits of the Spanish 
before the English settlement, mentioned by Governor Butler, in 16 19: 
'Witnesse certaine crosses left erected upon rocks and promontories.' " 

Below, on the beach level a few yards W., is a curious little 
cave, called Jeffrey's Hole, reached from aibove by ladder, and 
affording an interesting view seawards through a side opening. 
Nearby is the singular rock formation known as the Natural 
Chequer iBoard, caused by the action of the tide. 

From Spanish Rock eastward for about two miles, the MiH- 
tary Road affords one of the most picturesque drives in Ber- 
muda, Opposite Gravelly Bay (4^ mi-), a cross-road on L. 
forms a short cut to the Devil's Hole, 54 mi. away. At Man- 
grove Lake (5 mi.), an irregular body of water one half mile 
long, the main road skirts the S. side, while a branch on L, 
skirts the upper shore leading to Harrington Sound and Shark's 
Hole (p, 87). A second, and smaller body of water, Trott's 
Pond, is next passed (55^ mi.) ; after which the road turns in- 
ward to — 

Tucker's Town (PI. Ill— P5). This district lies between 
Paynter's Vale and the South Shore, including the narrow neck 
stretching eastward to Castle Point. The origin of the name is 
explained by Governor Butler in his Historye of the Bur- 
mudaes: "That generall land nowe called Tuckers Taune (be- 
ing so termed by the Gouernour Tucker himself upon his erect- 
ing there of two or three cottages of leaves, and planting the 
Live-tenant of the Castle and his wife upon it)." That Gov- 



98 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

ernor Tucker, in 1616, had laid out a town with regular streets 
and house lots in squares, is evidenced by the streets and build- 
ings shown on Norwood's map of 1622. It is recorded that he 
also planted here sugar canes and hedges of figs and pome- 
granates. The original town, however, survives only in name. 
In recent years the only thing resembling a settlement con- 
sisted of a school -house, a Methodist church and a few scat- 
tered homes of farmers and fishermen. 

In modern times the South Coast below Tucker's Town, has been 
invaded by sand-dunes, extending a mile or two along the shore; and 
driven by southerly winds, the loose white shell-sand from the beach 
has been drifted to a considerable distance inland, forming a succession 
of hills, and burying the once fertile soil. Prof. Verrill, writing in 
1902, says, "This has been going on for about 125 years. The loose 
sand of the dunes has not yet been stayed in its destructive force, 
by the binding roots of various shrubs and grasps that will grow 
in such soil, though the area of loose sand has already been much 
diminished by them. These are now the only important active or 
moving sand-dunes on the Islands. . . . Probably in Governor 
Tucker's time the sand-dunes had not yet invaded this district. Lieut. 
Nelson, writing in 1837, says that the Tucker's Town sand-dunes were 
reported to have become active about 1777." 

The Tucker's Town Development. The whole Tucker's 
Town section is now [1922] being completely revolutionized 
by the activities of the Bermuda Development Company, Ltd., 
incorporated in the summer of 1920, by a special Act of the 
Colonial Legislature, which empowered the Company to acquire 
approximately 510 acres of land in Tucker's Town and vicinity 
for the purpose of constructing golf links and tennis courts, 
and erecting a Country Club, hotel and cottages. 

The land acquired by the Company starts at Castle Point, runs 
along the shore of Castle Harbour to the boundary of Paynter's Vale 
(p. 76) ; thence along Harrington Sound, and across to the South 
Shore. The central idea of the whole development plan is to produce 
a beautiful park on much the same lines as the Westchester Country 
Club, near New York, the Myopia Club, near Boston, or the Ranleagh, 
near London. The park, hotel, country club and cottages are all being 
developed from designs by Charles D. Wetmore. 

The new i8-hole golf course is approaching completion, and will 
be true "links" in the Scotch sense of the word, "links" meaning sand- 
dunes. The course is being constructed by Mr. C. B. MacDonald of 
New York, who already has to his credit one of the finest American 
golf courses, that at Southampton, L. I. Mr. MacDonald is the 
original American golfer, and is one of the Committee of Fifteen ap- 
pointed by the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrew's, to control 
the rules of the game. 

The Natural Arch. On the long wide beach below Tuck- 
er's Town, toward the E. end, stands a curious and interesting 
piece of natural rock-sculpture, consisting of two large, well 
formed arches, side by side, separated by a massive central pil- 
lar of limestone. They stand forth conspicuously on a rocky 



THE CE,NTR.\L PARISHES 99 

promontory, interrupting the beach, with the massive cliffs as a 
background. 

"The formation of the well known Natural Arches is evidently 
due to the erosion of masses of softer limestone, leaving the harder 
parts to form the sides and central pillar of the arches. It stands just 
at high tide, but in heavy storms great waves dash under it through 
the archways with force enough to slowly cut away the softer lime- 
stones. The irregular strata of rock forming the arches are consider- 
ably broken, and show distinct fissures, as if due to settling. They 
are destined to fall at no distant time." A. E. Verrill. 

Castle Point. In the early days of the Colony a public 
highway was maintained along the Tucker's Town peninsula to 
Castle Paint, so called because it was the approach to Casth 
Island (p. 114), on which the (first fortification, King's Castle 
was erected. Sir J. H. Lefroy notes in his History, "This is, 
the first example of a military road in Bermuda, the object be- 
ing to give access by land to the Castle ; and it would appear 
probably that the breach by which the Castle is now insulated, 
instead of being at the extremity of the long promontory is of" 
later date than 1627, as there is no present possibility of getting 
across without boats." 

One of Governor Daniel Tucker's earliest official acts, in the 
second month of his government in 1616, was to appoint one Mr, 
Stokes, "his ancient acquaintance in Virginia," as Commander of 
Castle Island, with the title of Lieutenant of the Castle, a position 
which he held until 1627. when he was removed upon charges of mis- 
conduct, the principal charge being his refusal to clear the path be- 
tween the King's Castle and Stokes' Bay. This Lieut. Stokes was the 
pioneer settler above mentioned in Governor Tucker's projected Tucker's. 
Town, and his name has survived until modern times in the Bay which 
has only recently been rechristened Tucker's Town Bay. 

At the extreme, end of Castle Point is a cave formerly known as 
The Queen's Wliite Hall: "How we crept in through the narrow 
entrance I shall never try to tell. But the passage grew wider as we 
followed the winding way, and when our eyes became accustomed to. 
the darkness we could see that the floor was hard white sand, and that 
small stalactites hung from the narrow roof above us. It is not a large 
cave, but it is weird and strange. Though we were less than fifty feefr 
from the door, the waves were no longer heard. How still it was! — so. 
still that our footfalls on the smooth sand seemed lovid and harsh." — - 
Mrs. J. C. R. Dorr. "Bermudian Days." 



BERMUDA EASTWARD 

(St. George's, St. David's and the Islands in Castle Harbour) 
I. From the Causeway to St. George's 

The Causeway, forming the eastern continuation of the 
North Shore Road, is carried on a series of arches across 
Castle Harbour to Long Bird Island, which it traverses length- 
wise, connecting with St. George's Island, near Stokes' Paint, 
by an iron swing bridge. Total length from Blue Hole 
(p. 84) * to Causeivay Cottage i mi. 1430 yds. It was 
begun in Oct., 1867, and opened, free of tolls, Sept. 19, 1871. 
Cost of construction, £32,000, 

"The Causeway has an interesting history from a scientific point 
of view. It was originally almost wholly of stone masonry. 
During the great West Indian hurricane of September 12, 1899, it 
was almost entirely demolished during the night. No one, so far 
as known, saw^ it go down. It is said that the great seas and high 
tide that destroyed this Causeway came in from the southwest, and 
passed entirely "across this shallow Bay before reaching the masonry 
of the Causeway. If so, one can hardly imagine the size and violence 
of the seas that dashed against the fully exposed cliffs of the south 
shore." — A. E. Verrill. 

The Causeway was repaired chiefly with timber, at a cost of f6ooo, 
and reopened for traffic, April 12, 1900. 

The view from the Causeway, on both sides, is noteworthy. 
To the S. E. we can follow the Walsingham shore line down 
to the Tucker's Town peninsula, ending in Castle Point, with 
Castle^ Island just beyond; then the chain of small islands 
enclosing the S. side of the harbour : tiny Southampton Island. 
barely discernible ; Nonsuch Island, the Quarantine Station ; 
Cooper's Island; and lastly the much indented shore of St. 
David's, forming the N. E. boiindar}^ The view to N. W. 
embraces that portion of the Harbour known as The Ferry 
Reach, with a glimpse of the ocean through the narrow inlet 
betw. Coney Island and the western extremity of St. George's, 

Until the completion of the Causeway, the only means of reaching 
the main Island from St, George's, was by ferry across this inlet from 
Ferry Point to Coney Island; and for 259 years this ferry was main- 
tained, subject to frequent suspension of traffic, many hours at a time, 
when heavy northerly ^ales made the crossing too dangerous. In the 
pioneer days of the Colony an annual tax of n pounds of tobacco 
was levied upon every inhabitant above the age of 16; but about 1629 
an Act "to establish the Mayntenance for keeping of the Ferry" set 
apart the western part of St. George's, and all of Coney Island to 
produce tobacco for that purpose. 

Long Bird Island, traversed by the Causeway for approxi- 
mately I mi., is said to owe its name to the immense number 



BERMUDA EASTWARD loi 

of ''Egg-birds" or Terns, that bred on it when the Bermudas 
were first discoA'ered. 

"There is fowle in great number upon the Hands where they 
breed, that there hath been takem in two or three houres a thousand at 
the least; the bird being of the bigness o-f a good Pidgeon, and layeth 
egges as big as Hen egges A'pon the sand, where they come and lay 
them dayly . . . that there hath beene taken vp in one morining by Sir 
Thomas Gates' men one thousand of Egges; and Sir George Somers' 
men, coming a little distance) of time after them, brought away as many 
more with them: with many young birds very fat and sweete." — "A 
Discovery of the Bannodas," by Sil. Jourdain. 

Just before the swing bridge to St. George's Island is 
reached, the Shore Hills Hotel (p. 7), on the S. short of St. 
George's Island, comes into view across The Reach. Originally 
built for a sanitorium, it was completed and opened as a 
hotel in 1911. Situated 2 mi. from the town ot St. George's, 
it includes several cottages, a bathing pavilion, a vegetable 
and dairy farm. 

The swing bridge is next crossed, 130 ft. in length, and 
revolving on a circular pier, thus leaving two 50-foot water 
passages, through which moderate sized craft can proceed 
from the N. side through Ferry Reach directly to St. George's 
Harbour, On the St. George's side the road traverses the 
tongue of land known as Stokes' Point, and skirts the shore 
of Mullet Bay, obviously so named from the former plentiful- 
ness of mullet. On L. are a group of peculiarly shaped hills, 
the highest and most prominent of which is called Cherrystone 
or Sugar Loaf Hill (124 ft.) (Rl. Ill— R2). 

The formation of these hills is analogous to the huge drifts of 
snow on western prairies, which start from some small obstacle, such 
as a stray stick or stone. "Here in Bermuda, where snov^ is un- 
known, a sand-drift takes its place, and the action of the wind, seizing 
the dry sand at the upper portion of the sea beach, transports it fur- 
ther inland, and to a greater elevation, where the cement which con- 
verts it into solid rock is formed by the calcareous particles themselve-. 
Sugar Loaf Hill and a few adjacent elevations probably owe their 
formation in ,pre-historic ages to such sand-drift-."—//. B. Small. 

A quarter mile beyond the E. end of Mullet Bay, is the 
Municipal boundary line of the town of St. George's, 

II. The Town of St. George's 

History. St. George's, the old Capital of Bermuda, named 
from Sir George Somers, and marking the site of his death, 
was founded in the summer or autumn of 1612 by the first Gov- 
ernor, Richard Moore who, reaching the Islands on July 11, 
made Smith's Island his first choice, but finding it an unde- 
sirable town site, soon moved across to the spot where St, 



102 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

George's now stands, and there erected the first church and 
Government House ; and also erected three of the original forts 
within the present town limits : namely, St. Catherine's, War- 
wick's and Peniston's. For two centuries the history of the 
town is identified with the history of the Islands. Here, on 
Aug. I, 1620, the first General Assembly met, constituting the 
earliest representative government in any British colony. Here, 
in 1775, on Government Hill, took place the famous raid on the 
powder magazines by Americans, which made possible the vic- 
tory of Dorchester Heights ; and here, during the American 
Civil War, was the centre of the blockade-running trade, the 
harbour crowded with shipping, and the wharves piled hig'h 
with Confederate cotton, and other blockade goods. 

Although antedating Hamilton by two centuries, as a mu- 
nicipality, St. George's is only four years the younger. Its fight 
to incorporate, with a Mayor, Aldermen and Common Coun- 
cilmen to manage its affairs, was first conferred by an Act, 
dated July 22, 1797, appointing the "first Monday in October 
next," for holding the first elections, A century later the first 
Centenary of the Incorporation of St. George's was celebrated 
with public ceremonies. In 1909, the 300th Anniversary of the 
first settlement of the Islands was commemorated by the pub- 
lic unveiling of the Somers Monument ; and on Aug. i, 1920, 
the Tercentenary of the establishment of Representative Gov- 
ernment was held with impressive ceremonials, in which the 
Governor, Assembly and Legislative Council participated. 

Municipal Goz'ernment. The Corporation of St. George's 
consists of a Mayor, three Aldermen and five Common Coun- 
cilmen, elected annually on the first Monday in Jan , or on 
some other day of the ensuing week, as appointed by the 
Corporation. 

Topography. The municipal limits of St. George's form 
an irregular tract, resembling an inverted foot, with the heel 
projecting N. at St, Catherine Point, and the narrow ankle ex- 
tending S. almost to Buildings Bay. Greatest length, along 
N.W. coast, I mi. ; greatest width, along N.E, coast, ^ mi. 
The area is approximately double that of Hamilton. 

The curious irregularity of St. George's streets is due to 
the original instructions by the London Virginia Sub-Company 
to the early settlers, requiring that the houses were to be "car- 
ried square about a Market Place, and every street end to open 
into it, that from thence with a few pieces they might com- 
mand every street." (PI. II). 

Market Square, extending to the shore line, is still the centre of the 
town's activities. From its wharf runs the ferry line to St. David's 



BE,RIMUDA EASTWARD 103 

Island. Facing on it or near it are the Town Hall, the Old State 
House and the Old Jail, now the Customs House. The two main 
arteries of travel. Water St. and York St., both pass the Square, the 
former crossing midway, the latter skirting on the upper side. Kent 
St. with Public Gardens on R., radiates N. E., and the Parish Church of 
of St. Peter's o^^erIooking Queen St., rises on the N. W. Due N. is the 
higher ground of Govempient Hill, with Rose Hill, the St. George Hotel 
and St. George Golf Links on W.; while toi E. the Royal Barracks, 
Military Hospital and elaborate system of fortifications ooclupy the entire 
ridge along the coast. 

Market Square, Facing the Square, on N./ is the old 
Town Hall building, containing also Somcrs Inn (p. 8), for- 
merly St. George's Hotel. A little above, on W., facing Som- 
ers Inn, is the American Consular Agency. Here, at S.W. cor. 
of Kent St., was until recently the Globe Hotel, the oldest ho- 
tel in Bermuda. On the rising ground eastward of the Square 
is the Old State House, the home until 181 5, of the Courts of 
Justice and Legislative Council. It is now held in trust by the 
Corporation for Lodge St. George, No. 200, which is supposed 
to pay an annual rental of one peppercorn according to the 
*deed of gift made by Governor Sir James Cockburn in 1816. 
The deed also provided that Parliamentary elections should be 
held in this building. 

Lodge St. George, No. 200, was chartered Aug. 7, 1797, under the 
Grand Registry of Scotland, and is the oldest body of Free Masons in 
Bermuda. 

Nearby, on Water St., is the former Colonial Jail, later 
remodeled for a Post Office and Customs House. In this build- 
ing American Revolutionary prisoners were confined. Between 
the outer and inner walls are blocks of hard limestone, which 
doubtless disappointed many a convict who had started to cut 
an easy path to freedom through the friable Bermuda rock. 

One notable prisoner was the missionary, John Stephenson, con- 
victed under a law especially enacted to fit his case, of the so-called 
crime of "preaching the Gospel of Jesus Christ to African blacks and 
captive negroes," and condemned to six months' imprisonment, to pay 
a fine of £50 and to discharge all the costs of the Court. The proceed- 
ings were inefifective, for the indomitable Stephenson preached from 
his cell window, attracting crowds of sympathetic followers. As late 
as 1848 could still be read, carved in the stone of the cell floor: "John 
Stephenson, Methodist minister, was imprisoned in this jail six months 
for preaching the Gospel of Jesus Christ to the poor negroes." 

Water St. is the principal business street of St. George's, 
containing branches of the Hamilton banks, and most of the 
dry goods merchants, provision merchants, wine and tobacco 
dealers, etc. On Water St., a few doors from the Square, is 
still pointed out the house where King William IV of England, 
then the Duke of Clarence, lived while stationed in Bermuda 
as an officer in the Royal Navy. Proceeding through Market 



104 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Square N. to York St., we reacih on W. the old Parish Church 
of St. Peter's. 

St. Peter's Church, the "Mother Church" in Bermuda, 
and one of the three oldest church ecifices, occupies a com- 
manding sight in the old and now disused churchyard on N. 
side of York St., betw. Queen and Kents Sts. It is approached 
by a flight of 25 stone steps, equaling in width the south tran- 
sept, which is now the main entrance. The ground it stands 
on is probably the oldest Anglo-Saxon church site in the 
Western hemisphere, for it is believed to be that of the second 
structure, built of palmetto leaves by Governor Richard 
JVfoore in 1612, the first one having blown down. 

"After this, he (Governor Moore) prepared timber and raiseth the 
mould of a framed church; but no sooner was it pinned together, but 
that (partly by reason of negligence in some entrusted workmen, but 
especially through the over-bleak fitting it upon a hill) by thei next great 
wind it wai overthrown; so that, that attempt being given over, instead 
thereof was erected a church of palmetto leaves, and with the ruins of 
the other, the Governor framed a pretty handsome house contrived into 
the fa?hion of a cross. . . . And this frame serveth aptly unto .this 
day for the entertainment of the Governors in succession." — Butler's 
"Historye of the Bermudaes." 

In 1619 Governor Butler replaced the palmetto structure 
with a stone edifice, which in turn gave place, in 1713, to 
the present building, although the original thatched roof was 
replaced with stone about 1765. The last additions to the 
S. end were made about i860. The square west-end tower 
dates from 1814, at which time the present clock was put 
in through private subscription. 

"The church clock had originally been made for Portsmouth Dock- 
yard; but being too small for the position for which it was intended, it 
was secured by an enterprising and economical Bermudian, at a reduced 
price, as suitable for the town of his native place." — Lady Brassey, "In 
the Trades, the Tropics and the Roaring Forties." 

The interior arrangements are a relic of earlier days. A 
double-decked pulpit occupies the centre of the N. wall, while 
the altar stands at the E. end, requiring the congregation to 
face to right when the Creed is repeated. The altar piece 
dates from 1816, and cost about £50. "Between pulpit and 
altar are large box pews, with seats on two sides, the preacher 
looking at the backs of his auditors. One of these pews is 
reserved for the Governor, who has a legal right to a sitting 
in each Parish church." 

The numerous memorial tablets are interesting for their age and 
quaint phraseology. The most famous is that to the memory of Governor 
Allured Popple (1738-44). containing a lengthy and extravagantly fulsome 
eulogy, regretting that "his Administration, to the Inconsolable Grief of 
the Inhabitants continued but Six Years," and concluding, "to enumerate 
the many rare Virtues-which shone united in the Governor were to tell 



BERMUDA EASTWARD 105 

how many great talents and excellent adornments are wanting in some 
whom the Capriciousness of Fortune exposes in a more elevated and 
conspicuous Station." For the benefit of the visitor it should be noted 
that "there was a good and a bad Governor Popple, and also a feud 
between the families. How the friends of the good Governor must 
have chuckled at the exquisite lashings of the bad Governor, left to 
muse on his shortcomings!"— (Ha r/'^r'^ Magazine). Local opinion, 
however, differed on the subject of Allured Popple's virtues, and the 
tablet is flippantly known as "the Governor's Certificate of Character." 
The most pretentious tablet is that to Governor William Campbell. 
who died of fever Dec 2, 1796, one week after his arrival. It is a 
marble bas-relief, showing Memory weeping at the tomb (7. Bacoji, 
London, sculptor). Other tablets of historic interest include: one to 
the Hon. Henry Tucker, 1713-1808, the President of the Islands, also 
his wife Frances, daughter of Governor Bruere; to John Van Norden, 
for 19 years Mayor of St. George's (1801-18); also a tablet commemo- 
rating the dreadful mortality from yellow fever in the autumn of 
1855, when 2y2 deaths occurred among the officers, enlisted men and 
their families in the St. George Garrison, 

The Communion Service, consisting of 7 pieces of massive 
silver, with two exceptions, dates from 1684, and was pre- 
sented by King William I)H. One Chalice is still older, and 
is believed to have been given by the Officers of the Somers 
Islands Compan}^ The silver christening basin was the gift 
of the Hon. William Brown, of Salem, Mass., a Loyalist who, 
refusing every inducement to join the "Sons of Liberty," fled 
to England, and was later made Governor of Bermuda (1782- 
88). These relics, appraised by antiquarians at £40,000, are 
shown upon request. A small contribution to the church fund 
is expected. 

The Graveyard, because of its antiquity and the legibility 
of many of the inscriptions, is the most interesting of all the 
Parish burying grounds. Of special interest to Americans is 
the grave, opposite N. end of church, of Richard Sutherland 
Dale, eldest son of Commodore Richard Dale, and himself a 
midshipman in the U. S. Navy, who died in St. George's 
Feb. 22, 1815, from wounds received during an engagement 
between the U. S. Frigate^ President and a squadron of British 
ships of war on Jan. 15. The lengthy inscription closes as 
follows : "This stone records the tribute of his parents' grati- 
tude to those inhabitants of St. George's whose generous and 
tender sympathy prompted the kindest attentions to their son, 
while living, and honored him, when dead." 

In the above mentioned sea fight, the President, commanded by 
Commodore Decatur, had encountered and engaged the Piritish ship of 
war, Endymion. "During this fight young Dale gallantly took the place 
of a gunner whose head had been blown off. After two hours' desultory 
firing, the Endymion sailed abreast of the President, and both vessels 
fired broadsides'. Bulwarks were shattered and guns dismantled; men 
lay groaning above and between decks. But Dale was spared. And 
when the order was given to dismantle the enemy, a shot from Dale's 



io6 i RIDER'S BERMUDA 

gun struck the Endymion's mainmast. . . . The American seamen 
had almost completed their work of destruction when a stray shot 
struck Dale, shattering his right leg. But undaunted, he determined to 
fire his gun once more and, kneeling on his bleeding stump, pulled the 
lanyard; then he fell all in a heap, only to rise a prisoner of war." — - 
Frank H. Visetelly. 

The Grave of "Nea." Hester Louisa Tucker, the reputed 
subject of Tom Moore's "Odes to Nea" (p. 42), died prior 
to December 6, 1817, and was doubtless buried in the vault 
marked "Mr. William Tucker's Family Vault." Her eldest 
son, Richard Thomas Tucker, was rector first of Smith's and 
Hamilton Parishes, 1829-40, and later of St. Peter's from 
1839 to 1868. 

"A brother of Mrs. Goold, who is in the Navy, called upon me 
some evenings since; said with what delight they had read my Bermuda 
poems on the spot; how they had looked for the little Bay, etc. Told 
me that my pretty little friend, Mrs. W. Tucker, was dead, and that 
they showed her grave at St. George's as being that of 'Nea.' " — Moore's 
Memoirs. 

The Home of "Nea." Just E. of Ebenezer Church, 
Ciimherland Lane, so-called in honor of the son of George HI, 
runs N. from York St., upgrade toward Rose Hill. It is 
easily identified by a sign at York St. cor. pointing to Hill- 
vrest (p. 8), a popular boarding-house on R., at top of 
ascent. This Lane and vicinity are more closely associated 
than even Walsingham, with Tom Moore, the Irish poet, for it 
led to the home o'f Hester Louisa Tucker (1786-1817), generally 
believed to have inspired Moore's "Odes to Nea." 

Hester Louisa Tucker, the sixteen-year-old wife of William Tucker, 
was the eldest child of Tudor Tucker, the sixth generation from George, 
a nephew of Capt. Daniel Tucker, the second Governoi of the Islands. 
Throughout the annals of Bermuda the Tuckers have been one of its 
leading families. Nea's father was own cousin to Thomas Tudor Tucker, 
Treasurer of the United States, 1801-28; to St. George Tucker, the 
eminent jurist, known as the "Virginia Blackstone," who married Mrs. 
Randolph, mother of John Randolph of Roanoke; and to Nathaniel 
Tucker, the first English translator of Swedenborg. 

Moore's first impression of Bermudian women was unflattering: 
"The 'human face divine' has degenerated wonderfully in these coun- 
tries; and if I were a painter I would not suffer the brightest belle of 
Bermuda to be my housekeeper." Nea's acknowledged beauty must have 
been a welcome diversion to his boredom; yet three months later he 
could still write to his mother that he was bringing home "a sunburnt 
face and a heart not the worse for wear." 

The motto of the "Odes to Nea" is from the Medea of Euripides, 
"Nea tyrranei" ("A new Divinity is enthroned"). When first pub- 
lished in London, their amorous tone was so sharply assailed by one 
reviewer as to involve the poet in a duel. Nea's husband would never 
allow the volume in his house. On the other hand, two of his great- 
granddaughters were named "Nea." 

Of Cumberland Lane Moore himself wrote : 

"And thou — when, at dawn, thou shalt happen to roam 
Through the lime-cover'd alley that leads to thy home. 



.-^^^ 



"w i CO 




ABllV XQi 






^Q^V C. 



fe^< 



,>^^^ 



^^ 



iB'ER(MUDA EASTWARD 107 

Where oft, when the dance and the revel were done, 

And the stars were beginning to fade in the sun, 

I have led thee along, and have told by the way 

What my heart all the night had been burning to say — 

Oh! think of the past — give a sigh to those times, 

And a blessing for me to that valley of limes." 

Nea's home, now a crumbling ruin, is opposite Hillcrest 
(see p. 8), for many years the property of her granddaugh- 
ter, Mrs, W. D. Lent. The exact spot where Moore 
himself stayed during his three months' tenure of office as 
Registrar of the Court of Admiralty is not known; but his 
own descriptions of the view from his window seem to indicate 
the neighborhood of Rose Hill. 

"From my window now, as I write, I can see five or six different 
Islands, the most distant not a mile from the others, and separated by 
the clearest, sweetest colored sea yov« can conceive. . . . These little 
islands are thickly covered with cedar groves, through the vistas of 
which you catch a few pretty white houses, which my poetical short- 
sightedness always transforms into temples; and I often expect to see 
Nymphs and Graces come tripping from them, when, to my great disap- 
pointment, I find that a few miserable negroes is all 'the bloomy flush 
of life' it has to boast of." — Thomas Moore, Memoirs. 

The St. George Hotel, situated directly W. of Cumber- 
land Lane, upon the highest eminence of Rose Hill, is a 
three-story structure of native limestone, forming a broad 
parallelogram, with rear windows overlooking the ocean, 100 
ft. below, and the main facade looking southward over an 
extensive esplanade, with pictureisque view of the old town 
and the har<bor. First opened, Jan., 1907 (p. 7). 

Just N. of the St. George Hotel is the site of the house 
formerly allotted to the resident Admiral, down to 1815, when 
Admiral Warren acquired the present Admiralty House at 
Clarence Hill (p. 67). 

This spot also is closely associated with Tom Moore. In Feb., 1804, 
he recorded "The Admiral, Sir Andrew Mitchell, has insisted upon my 
making his table my own during my stay here." 

During the American Civil War, Rose Hill was the local headquar- 
ters for the Confederate blockade-runners, their principal rendezvous 
occupying part of the site of the St. George Hotel. 

The Soiners Gardens, a small public park (250x200 ft.), 
situated on the N. side of York St., just E. of Kent St., and 
containing the Monument and Tomb of Admiral Sir George 
Soniers, formerly constituted the grounds of the old Govern- 
ment House, from the founding of, the town, until the transfet 
of the seat of Government to Hamilton in 1815. Thereafter 
it fell into neglect, and although still called the Governor's 
Garden as late as 1857, it was given over to the adjacent 
Barracks as a kitchen garden for the Officers' mess. After 
Governor Lefroy (1874-77) had interested himself in this 



io8 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

spot, it became the Public Gardens, where a collection of rare 
tropical and semi-tropical plants and trees has been gathered 
together that well repays a visit, although the group of ancient 
date palms near the E. wall, planted 140 years ago, still remain 
the chief botanical attraction. When the Prince of Wales 
visited these grounds, Oct. 3, 1920, he rechristened them 
The Somers Gardens, breaking a bottle of champagne against 
the Admiral's Monument. 

Facing the York St, entrance stands the Somers Monu- 
ment, erected in 1909 to commemorate the Tercentenary of the 
settlement of the Islands, July 22, 1609, and Admiral Somers' 
share in this settlement. The monument is a shaft of native 
limestone, with a bronze tablet on S. fagade, showing in relief 
the stranded Sea Venture, with the NoTth Rocks in the back- 
ground. George W. Hill, sculptor. 

The Admiral's Tomb. On a lower level, reached by steps, 
a few yards further E, is the reputed "burial place of the 
heart of Sir George Somers, whose body was taken to England 
and lies beneath the Old Chantry, in Whitechurch. Dorset. 
Captain Nathanial Butler, who, while Governor of Bermuda 
in 1620, erected the first memorial at or near this spot, gives 
the following quaint details : 

"Dying upon the Island of St. George's, and at that very place 
where the chief town and residence of the Governors is since erected, 
his heart and bowels were there buried, a great cross of wood being 
. pitched over his grave which remained there until, about eight years 
after, Captain Butler, misliking the small respect showed to the memory 
of so true and noble a deserver, of his own cost caused a small monu- 
mental tomb to be framed over it.'' 

Early in the present century all traces of the tomb erected 
by Captain Butler had vanished, and for many years the only 
thing that marked the spot was a dark slab still to be seen in a 
niche in the ivy-grown wall, bearing the non-committal in- 
scription : 

CHARLOTTE HOPE 

POSUIT 

JOHANNES HOPE ~ 

PRAEFECTUS 

25th Decem. Anno. 1726. 
One hundred and fifty years later Governor Lefroy, after 
satisfying himself by a searching examination both of Colonial 
records and lo\:al tradition, that this was beyond reasonable 
doubt the true place of interment, had placed in the wall, above 
the other inscription, a white marble tablet inscribed: 

"Near this spot was interred in the year 1616, the heart of the 
heroic Admiral, Sir George Somers. Kt., who nobly sacrificed his life 



BERMUDA EASTWARD 109 

to cari-}^ succour to the infant and suffering plantation, now the State 
of Virginia. To preserve his fame for future ages, near the scene of 
his memorable shipwreck, 1609, the Governor and Commander-in-Chief 
of this Colony for the time being, caused this tablet to be erected in 1876." 

Government Hill which rises back of the Somers Gar- 
dens is reached by going N. on Kent St. a few hundred yards. 
Here stands the still unfinished Church of St. George, formerly 
expected to supplant St. Peter's. It was designed by Hay & 
Henderson, in early English style, with a tower rising at inter- 
section of nave, transept and chancel. Dimensions : Nave, 
length, 61 ft., width, 19 ft., exclusive of aisles ; Transept, width. 
18H ft., depth, I3>^ ft; Chancel, length, 191/^ ft, wid.h, 
185^ ft. Foundation stone laid, Jan. 21, 1874 ; roof completed, 
1899. The material is native limestone with brick piers. On 
or near the site it occupies stood the powder magazine from 
which Captain Ord, U.S.N., in 1775 obtained the powder 
which saved the day for Washington's army (p. xxxii). Di- 
rectly N. of the church stands the Rectory, which once formed 
part of the old Government House. 

About 1855, during excavations here, the skeleton of a man was 
exhumed together with buttons, spurs and bits of gold lace that 
proved him to have been a French. Staff Officer, probably a prisoner of 
war on parole. Such a prisoner disappeared on the night of the raid, 
and was supposed to have escaped with Ord's men; but it is apparent 
that they killed him, mistaking him in the darkness for a British 
sentinel. 

One interesting literary association with the old Governor's House 
is that of Philip Freneau, the "Poet of the Revolution,'' who visited 
Bermuda about 1772 and remained as guest of the Governor for 
upward of six months. The reason for his prolonged stay is attributed 
to the attractions of his host's daughter, to whom he addressed a number 
of poems, including "Amanda's Complaint," "Amanda's Singing Bird," 
and "Philander to Amanda." 

St. George's Barracks. Eastward from the old Gov- 
ernment Grounds, rises Barrack Hill (168 ft.), the highest 
point in the whole tract given over to the barracks and coast 
defences, extending from Tobacco Bay to St. Catherine's 
Point, on N., and southward, on E., almost to the Municipal 
boundary. The fortifications are closed to the public; but a 
trip through the barracks is v^ell worth while, in view of 
the fact that St. George's claims to be the oldest British 
Colonial garrison town. Facing Tobacco Bay, on N. W., are 
the big Nazml Tanks for supplying war vessels with water, 
and occupying the traditional site of the landing of the 
Powder-raid Party of 1775 (p. 102). 

Tobacco Bay itself is geologically interesting because of the curi- 
ously eroded rocks and pinnacles that occur there and that doubtless 
had an origin similar to the better known Cathedral Rocks in South- 
ampton (p. 129); i.e., they are not true stalactitic formations; but 



no RIDER'S BERMUDA 

mere vertical masses of sand-shell, so impregnated and encrusted by 
stalactitic material that they are very hard and resistant. 

Southeast of the Naval Tank, on higher ground, are the 
Married Quarters; then in order, the Hutment Barracks, 
Royal Engineers' Offices and Garrison Church. The Military 
Hospital is due E. from the church, overlooking the shore, 
and the Garrison Cemetery adjoins it on N. 

Forts Victoria, Albert and Catherine, which guard the channel 
leading to Murray's Anchorage (p. 46), are the modern succcessors of 
same of the earliest defences erected by the Colonists to guard the 
same approach. It was about July 1613, that Governor Moore laid the 
foundations of _ "a large redoubt upon a hill to the east of St. George's 
towne, the which he, after\vards brought to good perfection, beinge at 
the present called Warwick Fort, and haveinge three pieces of ordinance 
mounted upon it, serveth both to play out towards the harbour and to 
garde the fresh water belonginge to the towne." — ■{Butler's "Historye of 
the Bermudaes.") 

The earliest recoird of Imperial troops in Bermuda was in 1763 when 
a company of the 9th Regiment of Foot was doing duty there. The 
first barracks for Imperial Troops were at St. George's, and were pro- 
vided at the expense of the Colony, which even down to 1782 was 
obliged toi provide guns and gun-powder out of the "powder-fund" duty. 
Prior to the discontinuance of the convict establishment in 1863, only 
one regiment of Infantry and a small force of Artillery and Engineers 
were stationed in Bermuda. After that date a second regiment of 
Infantry was added but was withdrawn in 1881, during the Zulu war. 
During the detention in Bermuda of Boer prisoners-of-war, three regi- 
ments were stationed here. 

The road running S. E. from Barrack Hill, leads through 
the section of St. George's called "The Cut," containing a few 
fine estates and, further on, a numfcer of quaint old houses. 
We first pass, on L., Caledonia Park, residence of the late 
Capt. William E. Meyer ; and opposite, on R., is Gluckauf, the 
home of Captain Meyer's eldest son. 

Capt. William E. Meyer (1843-1912) was born in Danzig, but left 
Prussia at the age of 16, and made his home in Rhode Island. He 
served in the! Civil War, and was confined for many months in Ander- 
sonville prison. From 1873 he was a resident of St. George's, and 
for many years was German Consul to the Islands. During the Spanish 
War he offered his services and went down tO' Cuba, contributing the 
aid of one of his own vessels. 

The extreme S. E. end of St. George's Island, known as 
Old Town, is believed to be the spot where Admiral Somers 
and his shipwrecked companions landed in 1609. The ruins 
of an old fort, called Gates' Fort, after Sir Thomas Gates, and 
supposed to date from 1612, are still standing, part of the 
walls having been included in a dwelling erected by one 
Thomas J. Jennings, who acquired the property in 1870. One 
of the small bays on the shore below this fort is supposed to 
be the spot where Sir Thomas Gates first sprang ashore, exclaim- 
ing, "This is Gates his Bay!" The name, however, has dis- 



iBERlMUDA EASTWARD in 

appeared from modern maps. Just N. of the fort is Buildings 
Bay, so named because it is the traditional spot where one 
of the vessels in which part of the shipwrecked party later 
reached Virginia, was built under direction of Governor Gates, 
by one Mr. Furbusher, a master carpenter. 

This vessel was of cedar, 40 ft. long by 19 ft. beam, and about 70 
tons. As soon as launched, she was taken unrigged to the lee of "a 
little round island lying west northwest and close aboard to the back- 
side of our island." The "littlei round island" here referred to being 
presumably Ordnance Island, opposite Market Square. "There can 
scarcely be a doubt that the bay or cove still called Buildings Bay 
w^as the actual place where they built their larger vessel, for a memorial 
tablet was set up there whi'ch was preserved for many years after." 

On the road above Buildings Bay is an ancient well, 
known as Lunn's Well, which tradition says was dug by the 
shipwrecked crew of the Sea Venture. According to popular 
belief the smallest drink from this well guarantees that the 
partaker will be lucky in love. 

III. St. David's Island 

St.^ David's Island (p. 55), lying directly S. of St. 
George's, and forming the southern boundary of St. George's 
Harbour, is an irregularly shaped tract of land, with many bays 
and promontories, and measuring 2% mi. in length from Stock's 
Point on W., to St. David's Head on E., with an average width 
of less than half a mile. It has as yet no bridge connection 
with the other islands, but is reached by ferry (p. 14), run- 
ning on regular schedule from Market Wharf, St. George's. 
The Island was surveyed in 1885, and a system of roads 
planned with a view of opening it up. Complications of titles, 
however, and damage claims, have delayed the project; conse- 
quently, the Island still possesses only one road, 10 ft. wide, 
traversing its length in a somewhat zigzag course. The Island 
must eventually be connected with the Causeway, when it will 
inevitably lose the old-time peculiarities which are due to its 
isolation, and constitute its chief attraction. 

"St. David's is the only large Island having no highway connection 
with the others, and through isolation its inhabitants, a sturdy race, 
have closely retained the old 'Mudian traditions of living. They farm, 
fish, pilot vessels, go to sea when they hear the call, and chase the 
whale at every opportunity, according to the ways of their ancestors. 
You will find their prototypes in Nantucket and along the south shore 
of Long Island. The capture of a whale, now a rare occurrence, 
carries the greater part of the population to Smith's Island, where the 
blubber is tried out in vats that were built when the industry supported 
many families, and the colony burned sperm oil only." — ll\ B. Hayward, 
"Bermuda Past and Present.'' 

"It is said that many of the inhabitants of St. David's have never 
been off the Island, and until lately those benighted individuals had 



112 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

never seen a horse. Now, however, there are two horses on the Island, 
'and one of them,' our informant added, 'is a donkey.' " — Mrs. Eanies, 
"Letters from Bermuda." 

St. David's is a favorite spot for picnics, and there are 
several good bathing beaches ; but, aside from scenery and vege- 
tation, it offers few inducements to the sightseer. Near the 
centre of the Island, not far from the main dock, is a small 
Chapel-at-Ease, situated on the summit of a hill, command- 
ing a fine view of the harbour on one side and the ocean on the 
other. It was begun in the summer of 1848, and as originally 
built was only 22 ft. long and 14 ft. wide. It was consecrated 
by Bishop Feild, April 11, 1849. 

Although the day of consecration was a stormy one, all the 
Clergy were present; and it is told that the boat which brought them 
across was rowed by the sons of four Rectors. In 1891 the chancel 
was begun and consecrated, April 28, 1892. The prayer-desk was a 
gift from former Governor Newdegate. 

Adjoining the Chapel is a quaint old graveyard, and a few 
rods W. is a Weshan Methodist Chapel, and t-he St. David's 
Post Office just beyond. One mile to E., on Mount Hill, stands 
St. DaTJid's Lighthouse, an octagonal limestone tower, 55 ft. 
from base to lantern, and 208 ft. 9 in. above sea level. 

This Lighthouse was built in 1879, and the light first exhibited 
Nov 3 of that year. It shows a fixed wlute light of the second order, 
visible between the bearings of N. 45° 30' W. round by N. and E. to 
S. 44° 30'. 

The eastern gallery overlooks the comparatively new St. David s 
Fort, the cliffs of Great Head, and further out, the buoys marking the 
channel through the outer reefs. North and northwest, we overlook the 
waters lying betw. St. David's and Smith's Island: nearest of all the 
Great Bav, then Smith's Sound and the Narrozvs, with the harbour and 
town of St. George's beyond, with the pink-washed Government Build- 
ings on Ordnance Island standing out conspicuously. Toward W and S. 
is an unbroken vew of Castle Island Harbor and its many islands. 

At present the Lighthouse is closed to visitors. 
'^ Near the E. shore, below the Lighthouse, is a small Cave, 
accessible to visitors, but little frequented. 

"The headlands of St. David's are precipitous cliffs, with deep bays 
and curious indented caves. One of them is called Cupid's Oven — ;a 
most maladroit name, for the little God would be frightened out of his 
wits by the mere sight of the dark, uncanny hole." — Mrs. J. C. R. Dorr. 
"Bermttdian Days." 

The waters adjacent to St. David's are a favorite hunting 
ground with students of marine life. "Thousands of sea- 
anemones occur in the clear shallow water, and many species 
of crustaceans and echinoderms may be collected on the white 
sandy bottom." (/. Matthczvs Jones). 

At the extreme western end of the Island. S. from Stock Point 
is a projeccting headland known as Waller's Point. The mO'Ol: question 
whether the poet, Edmund Waller, ever visited Bermuda, has been 
practically decided in the negative b}' Lefroy, on the strength of Parlia- 



iBERiMUDA EASTWARD 113 

mentary records. This point, however, owes its name to the discovery 
in the sand of a gold ring, which, because it bore the initials E. W., 
was believed to have been lost there by the poet. 

a. Smith's Island 

Of the islands in St. George's Harbor only Smith's and Paget' s 
deserve special mention. Several of th^ smaller islands are government 
owned. Little White's Island was bought in 19 lo by the Editor of 
this volume. 

Smith's Island, 6i acres in extent, lying due N. of St. 
David's Island opposite the Great Ba}^, is historically interest- 
ing as the first landing place of Governor Richard Moore and 
the 60 colonists sent out in 1612 by the newly formed Somers 
Islands Company; and doubtless it was named, like Smith's 
Parish (p. 75), after Sir Thomas Smith ,then Governor of 
the company. But very shortly afterwards the seat of govern- 
ment was transferred to St. George's, "for the commoditie and 
nereness of the fresh water." The old fortification walls on the 
N. side of this island are all that remains of Smith's Fort, one 
of the original nine defenses of the Islands, and shown in the 
old map in Smith's History as facing Paget's Fort, across the 
former main channel to St. George's Harbour. 

The one conspicuous landmark on the island is an old 
Whale-house, now rarely used. In the old days, when sperm 
oil constituted an important commodity, it was here that the 
capture of a whale brought over the entire fisher population 
of St. David's, to try out the blubber. 

b. Paget's Island 

Facet's Island, earlier called Peniston's Island, with an 
area of 31 acres, is today one of the important links in the 
system of coast defences. Fort Cunningham, which down to 
1870 was admittedly one of the strongest British Colonial forti- 
fications of its type, is historically interesting as being a 
lineal descendant of the first of the nine original forts planned 
by Governor Moore : 

"The Governor chose to settle his first worck upon the point of a 
small iland lieing on the north side of that channel that leadeth into 
St. George's harbour, wher he cutts out a plattforme and planted some 
ordinance to good purpose. This iland was since tearmed Peniston's 
Island, and the fort is now called Paget's Fort, in honour of the Lord 
Paget, who is one of the Company." 

When Prince Albert and George, then Prince of Wales, visited 
Bermuda in 1880. while undergoing training on the Bacchante, one 
feature of the entertainment provided for them was to witness from 
Fort Cunningham the blowing up, by the R. E. Torpedo Branch, of 
what was known as the Jenkins^ Boiler, a dangerous submerged rock 
that partly obstructed the old channel to St. George's Harbor. "Boiler" 



114 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

is the local name given to barely covered, saucer-like rocks, in which 
the surge rotates, spouting up like water from a boiling vessel. 

The channel thus cleared is still known as the Jenkins Boiler Chan- 
nel. In 191 1, however, when Bermuda acquired the first of its modern 
powerful dredgers, the King George, soon afterwards reinforced by 
the Queen Mary, it was decided, instead of deepening the indirect 
Jenkins Boiler Channel, to open a new one through Town Cut, between 
the S. E, point of St. George's and Higg's Island, which not only 
required less dredging but provided a channel barely half the length 
of the old one. The task required several years and was interrupted by 
equally needful work on the Hamilton Harbour channels. Since its 
completion (opened Jan. i, 1917), St. George's has begun to get back 
some of its former importance as a maritime port. 

IV. The Islands in Castle Harbour 

Castle Harbour, the second largest of the Bermuda 
Sounds, measures at its greatest length, from Coney Island 
to Ruth's Point, St. David's Island 22/3 mi., and at greatest 
width, from Long Bird Island to Castle Point, 2 mi. It is 
bounded on the N. by St. David's, on the N. W. and S. W. 
% St. George's and the main island, and on the S. E. and E. 
l)y a chain of small islands, several of which well merit a 
visit, because they contain som.e of the oldest surviving relics 
of the first settlers, in the shape of the first fortifications 
■erected. 

The early colonists evidently recognized the fact that the reef- 
encircled Bermuda Islands are nowhere so easily approached as at 
Castle Harbour; and accordingly they exerted their dhief energies in 
guarding (its entrance. The channel to this harbour is in a most pro- 
tected position, whereas the approaches both to St. George's and 
Hamilton Harbour are exposed to the violence of northeasterly winter 
storms that make_ entrance and exit dangerous, and) at times impossible. 
Since the beginning of the present Tucker's Town development steps 
have been taken towards opening Castle Harbour as a port for vessels 
of large draught. The operation of dredging Castle Roads is found 
to be comparatively simple; /the shallow portions are shoals, with deep 
water aro'und them, and in the wider portion of the ehannel, the material 
is entirely isand. Practically the entire foreshore of , Castle Harbour 
and of Tucker's Town to- Paynter's Vale has from 35 to 42 ft. of water 
now, affording anchorage for 30 to 40 vessels, whereas St. George's 
can accommodate at most 12 to 14. 

The reason for the abandonment of Castle Harbour as a naval 
anchorage is. given as follows by one Richard Cotter, a purser in the 
Royal Navy, writing in 1828: "Castle Harbour was formerly the ren- 
dezvous for our ships of war, until a privateer under American colors 
(in the Revolutionary War), commanded by a Bermudian, had tauntingly 
sent a challenge to the Cerberus frigate, knowing that she could not 
get out without great risk, when the captain, unable to bear such 
impudence any longer, got his ship under weigh, contrary to the advice 
of the pilot. The frigate, in endeavouring to get out struck on a rock, 
and became a total wreck, whicih was the cause of discontinuing this 
anchorage for His Majesty's sbips." — "Sketches of Bermuda," by 
Richard Cotter, 



©ERjMUDA EASTWARD 115 

a. Castle Island 

Castle Island, lying E. of Castle Point, and separated from 
Soiithampton Island by Castle Roads, is easily the most in- 
teresting of all the smaller islands in Castle Harbour, because 
its fortifications are more extensive and in better state of 
preservation; also they are the oldest, having been begun in 
1612. The Island is about 3 acres in extent, being approxi- 
mately 270 ft. long, by 90 ft. broad. It stands rather high 
out of the water for an island of its size, and the N. side and 
E. and W. extremities rise in perpendicular or over-hanging 
clififs of considerable height, leaving only one small cove on 
the S. side, where boats can land. "It is a lonely, desolate 
spot, the home of the lizard and the prickly pear" (/. Matthews 
Jones). Passes are now required both for Castle Island, and 
for the adjacent Charles' Fort and Southampton Fort, and 
may be obtained by application to the Colonial Surveyor's 
Office, Parliament St., Hamilton. Usually, however, the men 
who rent boats at Tucker's Town can also supply passes. 

There were altog-ether nine early colonial forts established by 
Governor Moore (1612-16), and completed by Governor Tucker (1616-19), 
extending in a semi-circle from Warwick and St. Catharine's Forts at 
St. George's, to Devonshire Redout at Castle Island. Those that are 
still distinguishable are now in ruins, having apparently been built of a 
poor grade of limestone found in the vicinity. Most of them were 
abandoned before 1680, and several have not been occupied since 1630, 
although in some instances more recent fortifications have replaced 
them on the same sites. 

Along the S. side of Castle Island runs a lower cliff or 
blufif, and along the crest of this bluff is a wall, believed to 
date from the War of 1812, and still in fair condition, except 
at one point where a section was demolished by the hurricane 
of 1899. It is believed, however, to occupy the site 'of the 
palisade built in 1626. 

"Steep stairs cut in the rocks led us to a broad plateau bordered 
by ruined fortifications. . . . Far down on the beach below lay a 
rusty cannon, half buried in the sand. Doubtless from the very spot 
where I stood it had belched forth its thunders. We lunched in the 
gray old court, sitting on a low stone seat whereon, it was easy to 
believe, many a brave soldier and many a fair lady had whispered sweet 
secrets, Icing ago. Names were carved in the rocks and on the walls, 
the numbers of many regiments — ^some famous in English annals— 
appearing over and over again. The remains of the old ovens were still 
there, and chimneys blackened by the smoke of fires so long gone out.'' 
— Mrs. J. C. R. Dorr. "Bepnudian Days." 

On the E. end of the island, formerly called Gurnett Head. Gov- 
ernor Moore located one of his first defenses, and installed one of the 
two cannon salvaged from the wreck of the Sea Venture, the other 
being mo'unted oppposite Paget's Fort (p. 113)-. In 1613 he built a 
cedar platform on Gurnett Head, completed just in time t0| drive away 
two strange vessels, supposed to be Spanish, which were attempting to 
enter the harbour: "Two sails were discovered from the Gurnett's 
Head, where were only at that time eight or ten men; at who?e 



ii6 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

approach somewhat near it was discoveied that one of them was towed 
by her skiff; and with all that they both continuously used their oars 
and so'unded for the channel." . . . "But Master Moore made but 
two shots, which caused them presently to depart. Mark there the 
handiwork of the Divine Providence, for they had but three-quarters 
of a barrel of powder, and but one shot more, and the powder by 
carelessness was tumbled down under the muzzles of the two pieces, 
which were dischoarged, yet not touched with powder when they were 
discharged." {Capt. John Smith.) Upon the arrival in March, 1614, of 
some 280 new colonists. Moore transferred a large detachment of 
theni to Gurnett's Head, "to make that plattforme and rayse thoes bat- 
tlements that to this daye lie out upon the mouth of the harbour; 
the which, havinge finished in some reasonable manner, was called the 
King's Castle." Moore subsequently built another redoubt on the highest 
point of the island, toward the west, to which Governor Butler gave 
the name of Devonshire's Redoubt when he rebuilt it in 1620. The 
name of King's Castle, however, was used collectively for all the 
fortifications on Castle Island for about 70 years, excepting in Crom- 
well's time, when, notwithstanding that the Islands were in a state of 
rebellion, it was called Commonwealth Castle. These fortifications 
were repaired in 1660, and again by Governor Coney in 1684. It is 
recorded that in 1656 it was made the place from which pilots should 
go out to ships. 

At the extreme E. end of Gurnett Head, just below the 
ruins of the old stone fort of King's Castle, there still exists 
a gun-platform cut out of solid rock, doubtless the successor 
of Governor Moore's original cedar platform. In making his 
way westward, the visitor passes some old barracks, the walls 
of which are still standing, although the slabs of Imiestone 
formerly constituting the roof have disappeared, presumably 
stolen for building purposes elsewhere. Two of the old brick 
ovens istill remain, and have become miniature caves, their 
roofs festooned with tiny stalactites. On the highest point 
of land, at W. end, surrounded iby a stone fort of considerable 
extent, is a high stone redoubt with embrasures for several 
guns. This redoubt and battery doubtless occupy the site of 
the original Devonshire Redoubt of 1620. 

"The most interesting finds on Castle Island were the broken, 
pearly shells of the West Indian Whelk (Livona picai) , which had, 
apparently, been used for food. This mollusk, which is eaten in the 
West Indies, has been so long extinct in Bermuda that nothing is now 
known of its former presenicte in a living state." — A. E. Verrill. 

b. Southampton Island 

Facing Castle Island on E., and separated from it by 
Castle Roads, the main channel into Castle Harbour, is 
Southampton Island, only one acre in extent, but historically 
of special interest because it contains the ruins, still in fair 
preservation, of Southampton Fort, built by Governor Butler 
in 1626 and declared by him to be the only defence in the 
Islands properly planned and laid out. 



I 



BERMUDA EASTWARD 117 

"The Governor is noe sooner returned out of the maine to St. 
George's butt he setts twenty men to worcke at Southampton Forte, the 
which after six weekes of hard labour is secured by three smale buU- 
warcks, two curtaines and two ravelings; the which not only rnaketh 
a very f ayre shewe out to sea, but is, with all (the naturall site of 
rock exceedingly well concuringe) very strong and defensible; being 
(to saye the truth), the only true piece of fortification in the whole 
Hands." 

The outline of the fort, as shown in the diagram in Smith's 
Hhfory, which was based on Butler's description, may still 
be traced in the ruins, which approximate closely to the old 
drawing. This fort is included in a statement by the Ber- 
muda Company as one of the forts in use in 1677, and it was 
still garrisoned down to 1693. 

\ small local scandal centers around Southampton Fort, invoh-ing 
its first custodian, one Capt. Felgate, together w'lth (Japt. Stokes, Com- 
mander of King's Castle (p. 116). At a timq when Spanish ships were 
marauding in the neighborhood, and these forts should have been doubly 
manned, these two Captains were found guilty of employing their men 
for private ends: some to build Capt. Stokes' house at Tucker s Town; 
others to ferry them from port to port; while the rest they hired out to 
make salt at St. George's. They were sentenced to imprisonment during 
the time of the Assembly and afterwards during pleasure of the Gov- 



ernor. 



c. Cooper's Island 

East of Southampton Island lies Nonsuch Island, of about 
15 acres, now the Quarantine Station (no visitors admitted 
without a pass) ; and still further E. is Coope/s Island, 77 
acres, containinig a chasm and Natural Bridge, believed to be 
the remains of an ancient underground waterway, now partly 
submerged, the roof of which has everywhere else tallen m. 
The shores of this island reward a diligent search with an 
abundant variety of shells and seaweeds. 

Cooper's Island is one of the spots where the now extinct ''Cahow'' 
bird bred in vast numbers when Bermuda was first colonized. It is al.o 
one of the legendary hiding places of buried treasure since, as also m 
?he case of Cris 7sland (p. 135), a Yellowwood tree was fo""d he.e 
bearing a cross and a brass tablet with a cryptic inscription. Chr sto- 
nher Ca?ter-^one of the "Three Uncrowned Kings of Bermuda, as 
^"shington Irving ^called them, -l-,-lr^'m^\^s''Lrrck'tT England 
islands, when their companions took Lord Somers body i'^'i^^^^f "if^^.e" 
—Ipter made a special trip to London and obtained a Royal lease 



belief in the legend of the buried Spanish gom; diu ne uicv^ "-_--'- 
16^7 five years after the lease was granted, having found neither gold 
nof'amberlris-although a lump of tlae ^f "^^^^ r'oWe^f unsal^r; 
by the next owner, the above mentioned Capt. Colgate ot unsa\ory 
memory. 



ii8 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

d. Gurnett Rock 

Almost opposite Southampton Island but nearly ^ mi. 
from the shore on S. side, stands an isolated islet known as 
Gurnet Rock. It contains nothing to tempt the average sig*ht- 
seer, but is extremely interesting to ornithologists, since it is 
almost the only remaining breeding place in Bermuda of that 
rare bird, the Dusky Shearwater {Puffinus obscurus), erro- 
neously identified by Mr. Hurdis in 1849, as the "Cahow" 
described by early historians. (PI. Ill — iS6). 

"This rock cannot bel landed upon in safety, owing to the ahnost 
continual swell of the ocean; and many are the hair-breadth escapes 
that have occurred when enthusiastic naturalists have daringly made 
the attempt. The last effort was made by Lieut. Reid, R.E., about 1874. 
Although he luckily succeeded in making good his footing, he received 
some severe bruises" (/. Matthews Jones). As a result of his ra?h 
adventure Lieut. Reidi secured one yaung specimen of the Dusky Shear- 
water alive, and kept it for several weeks, during which it became quite 
tame. Up to about i860 nests were quite common on the isolated 
coast rocks, and the Ibird was known locally as the "Pimlico," from 
its call-note. 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 

Paget West, Warwick, Southampton, Somerset and 
Ireland Island 

Three routes lead from Hamilton to the Western Parishes. 
I. The direct way is hy the Middle Road, a continuation ot 
the South Road through the Eastern Parishes, and continuing 
W. without interruption to the Ireland Island Dockyard. IE. 
The North Shore Road, skirting the S. shore of Hamilton Har- 
bour through Paget and Warwick, joining the Middle Road 
just E. of Riddle's Bay. III. The South Shore Road, which 
leaves the Middle Road at St. Paul's church, and follows the 
coast through Warwick and Southampton, again meeting the 
Middle Road i mi. E. of the Somerset boundary. 

I. The Middle Road, from Hamilton to Gibb's 

Hill 

This route is the same as for Tucker's Town to the junc- 
tion of Point Finger Road with the Middle Road (i mi. See 
p. 94). An alternative way is 'by following the Lane Road 
to R., past Inglewood, joining the Middle Road further W, 
Proceeding westward, we pass bdhind Inglewood (on R.), 
with Trimingham Hill rising to 157 ft. On L. is Belle Vue 
(i 1/3 mi.), residence of the late William T. James (d. 1913). 

Mr. James was for many years a leading spirit in Bermuda's busi- 
ness and financial enterprises. He was founder of the Bank of Bermuda, 
and one of the originators of the Bermuda Telephone Co.. and Bermuda 
Fire and Marine Insurance Co. He was especially associated with the 
cultivation of Bermuda arrowroot {Maranta arundinacea) which is 
admittedly the purest arrowroot grown; and the large factory at Belle 
Vue, conducted under his personal supervision, controlled practically 
the entire Bermuda output. 

Presently the road curves S., with Paget Marsh on R., 
reaching (i 1/3 mi.) a fork where a branch runs S. to the 
South Shore Road. Just beyond, on R., we reach — • 

St. Paul's Church, Paget Parish. It stands upon a slight 
eminence and is essentially modern in appearance, having been 
remodeled in 1882-83, after designs by Dr. Henry J. Hinson. 
The eastern and western extensions, also the tower and spire 
at end of S. transept were then added. Although an older 
parish church is known to have existed, all record of its loca- 
tion has been lost. The oldest nortions of the present structure 
date from 1796, and the N. transept from 1834. 

Memorial Windows. The East chancel window, three lights, i= by 
Co.v & Sons. Central light: St. Paul, "Write, Blessed are the Dead 
which die in the Lord.'' in memory of a former rector. Rev. James 



120 RIDEiR'S BERMUDA 

Wood and wife who died of yellow fever in 1864. L., Christ healing 
the Blind; memorial to Dr. A. W. Harvey; R., memorial to Hon. D. E. 
Gilbert. The three side-wall windows, memorials to members of tlie 
Tucker family, and to the Hon. T. A. Farrell, show episodes in the 
life of St. Paul. The Nave Windows include: i. Christ in Gethsemane, 
memorial to James H. Trimingham, 1820-99, bj' Cox & Buckner; 2. The 
Good Shepherd, memorial to Samuel A. Harvey, 1805-82, by Cox 
6r Sons. 

The mural inscriptions include memorials to Vice-Admiral Sir 
William Charles Fahie, 1765-1833; to Hon. Thomas Butterfield, Chief 
Justice of Bermuda, 1834-56, and to Lennock De Graaif Godet, "shot 
down in an air battle in Lorraine, June 18, 19 18, and buried in the 
Chambiere Cemetery at Metz." 

In the churchyard is a monument to Archdeacon Lough, consisting 
of an lona cross of gray Dartmoor granite, a reduced replica of the 
one erected to Lord Frederick Cavendish at Bolton Abbey, Yorkshire 
(Harry Hems, Exeter, arch.) 

Lough Memorial Hall. At a meeting held in May 1896 it was 
decided to erect a building suitable for a Sunday school and other 
church purposes, as a memorial to the Rev. John Francis Burnaby 
Lumley Lough,^ for thirty years rector of Paget and Warwick, and for 
several years Archdeacon of Bermuda. The present site was secured 
in 1899, partly by purchase and partly by gift, and the cornerstone was 
laid by the Governor of Bermuda Aug. 3, 1908. 

Just beyond Paget church the Valley Road branches N. 
to the North Shore ; and further on, by the Paget Schoolhouse 
(2 1/3 mi.), is a cross-road leading straight N. and S. across 
the Island. The Middle Road now passes a number of the 
finest places in Paget, with pleasantly appropriate names at the 
entrances: RosehiU, Rose Cottage, Mount Pleasant, Mount 
Royal, on L., Greendale, The Manse, Bloomfield, Bel-air, on R. 
Here we reach a crossways, popularly known as Amen Corner, 
the cross-road running from the Hotel Inverurie, on N. to the 
South Shore Road, and marking the boundary line between 
Paget and Warwick. At S.W. cor. is Warwick East Post Of- 
fice, facing Camhrae Hall, formerly a popular iboarding-house. 
Just beyond, on R., is the little old schoolhouse where Prof. 
Francis L. Patton, ex-President of Princeton University, at- 
tended school as a boy. Dr. Patton still retains a Bermuda 
home at Carberry Hill, a few rods W. where the Keith Hall 
Road branches N. 

Dr. Patton is a Bermudian of the fourth generation, and has never 
relinquished his British allegiance. After his many years' sojourn in 
America, he cast his first vote in half a century at the Warwick polling 
place in 19 15. 

Adjoining Cat berry Hill on W., are the extensive grounds 
of the Hotel Belmoni (p. 7), comprising 20 acres, overlook- 
ing Hamilton Harbour, and extending to the North Shore Road. 
The main entrance driveway from the Middle Road has been 
called the most beautiful natural arbor of Oleanders in Ber- 
muda. 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 121 

Belmont formerly belonged to the Wainwright family whose ances- 
tors date back to the earliest days of the colony. The oldest portion 
of the present hotel was erected about 1815 by John Wainwright. grand- 
father of the late Mayor of Hamilton; and he constructed it upon 
generous lines, with rooms so large and high that when the neighboring 
Presbyterian church was rebuilt in 1837, the central hall at Belmont 
was used temporarily for divine service. The unusual width of the 
doors was due to the fact that being cripppled with rheumatism, he 
designed them so that his horse could be brought through the hall into 
his chamber where he mounted it from his bed. 

The hotel building, of native stone, was considerably 
enlarged and moderniz-ed in 191 1. It now has accommodation 
for 150 guests. An observatory on the roof affords an exten- 
sive view of the harbor. Diagonally opposite hotel, on L. 
(3^ mi.), stands — 

Christ Church, the earliest Presbyterian Church, and one 
of the oldest church buildings in Bermuda. The site on which 
it stands was given in 17 19 by Thomas Gilbert, "for the mani- 
festation of his love for the people of the Presbyterian per- 
suasion who were destitute of a meeting-house wherein to as- 
semble." Since its erection in 17 19, the church has twice been 
reconstructed and enlarged; first in 1837, when the tower was 
built: and again in 1870, when additions were made to the 
transept. In 1908 a fine modern organ, built by Bishop & Son, 
of London, was installed, half the expense being borne by An- 
drew Carnegie. 

It is believed that a Presbyterian congregation existed in Bermuda 
long before 1719, possibly from the first settlement of the Colony. 
George Keith, who came to Bermuda in 1612, and was the Colony's 
first minister, was a Scotch Presbyterian; Lewis Hughes, whose minis- 
trations extended throughout 161 5-1634, had strong Presbyterian leanings, 
and a rooted objection to ceremonies and the Book of Common Prayer. 
And while he and his followers' believed themselves members of the 
established church, it was through his influence that there was grafted 
upon the Episcopal system a measure of Presbyterian discipline which is 
discerned in the Bermuda church throughout the _i7th century. (See 
History, p. xxvii.) The theory that an earlier kirk or meeting-house 
existed is supported by the date "1660'' on a ciedar rafter in the present 
church. 

Among the mural tablets is one commemorating the services held 
here in 1748, by the celebrated English evangelist George Whitefield; 
and the old-fashioned box pulpit from which he spoke is still preserved 
in the gallery. In Whitefield's diary may be read: "Sunday, March 27, 
1748. Glory be to God! I hope this has been a profitable Sunday to 
many souls. Both morning and afternoon I preached to a large auditory 
in Mr. Paul's small meeting-house, which, I suppose contains about 400." 

Adjoining Christ Church on the W., is Thorhurn Me- 
morial Hall, used as a Saibbath School and a lecture room, and 
for meetings held in the higher interests of the community. 
The cornerstone was laid Aug. 20, 1890, by Dr. Francis L. Pat- 
ton, whose father, grandfather and great-grandfather were 
memlbers and pew holders of Christ Church. Dimensions of 



122 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Hall, 60 ft. long by 30>4 ft. wide, the towers flanking front en- 
trance are respectively, 50 ft. and 30^ ft. high. Seating ca- 
pacity, 300. Archiitect, JV. Cardy Hallett, the Colonial sur- 
veyer. A quarter mile further on, Longford Road leads, on R., 
to the North Shore. Just beyond we pass, on L., the small 
and picturesque Warivick Pond, with Lusher Hill (177 ft.) 
forming a cedar-clad background. At W. end of Pond (4 mi.), 
on R., somew'hat raised above the road, stands — • 

St. Mary's Church, Warivick Parish, a severely plain 
structure, erected in 1832, with semi-circular windows, and a 
square tower and cupola. It was enlarged in 1848 ; the chancel 
and N. aisle were added about 1900, and the Memorial Chapel, 
at S.E. cor., dates from 1919. 

Memorial Windows : East chancel window, memorial to Bishop Feild; 
subject, St. Peter and St. Paul. N. chancel window, memorial to J. C. 
Lightbourn; subject. The Ascension. 

On R. of chancel is the Memorial Chapel to Edward English Lough, 
rector of Paget and Warwick, 1896-99, 1909-19, whose body is interred 
beneath the chapel. 

In the vestry, on L. of chancel, is a picture of Old Warwick Church, 
taken from a sketch by Mrs. Joseph Lightbourn. This was one of the 
first four churches in Bermuda. 

Directly opposite the dhurch, Khyher Pass runs through to 
the South Shore. It is a deep canyon-like cut through the solid 
rock of the intervening hill, and is of considerable geological 
interest because of the stratifications in the limestone thus ex- 
posed. 

Tamarind Vale, a half mile beyond St. Mary's, is the site 
of the house where George Whitefield preached several times. 
Warwick West Post Office is reached just E. of where 
the North Shore Road merges with the Middle Road (4 3-4 mi. ; 
see p. 124). The Southamipton Parish boundary is now cro'ssed 
at beginning of Riddle's Bay, formerly Heron Bay. The penin- 
sular on N. side of Bay (Warwick Parish), indented with many 
coves, has recently been acquired for the new Riddle's Bay Golf 
Course, now [1922] being laid out. The road now skirts the 
shore of Riddle's Bay, commanding a steadily widening vista 
of the Great Sound. On L. the land rises in a succession of hills 
and ridges, iorming some of the highest elevations in the Islands. 
We pass successively Calsey's Hill (200 ft.), Akermann Hill 
C215 ft), Beek Hill (200 ft.), and highest of all, Gibh's Hill 
{241 ft.), with its surmounting Lighthouse. At the small inlet 
known as Perinchief's or Jezv's Bay. just beyond Souihampton 
East Post Office, the Gibb's Hill Road forks to L. Opposite, 
the Port Royal Sign Post gives the "-'ollowing distances : West, 
to Somerset Bridge, 4 mi,; to Watford Bridge, 7 mi.; East, to 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 123 

Hamilton, via Middle Road, 5^ mi.; S.W. to Lighthouse 
y2 mi. 

For Gibb's Hill Lighthouse, (PI. HI— D7) see p. 127. 

II. The North Shore Road from Hamilton to 
Riddle's Bay 

This route is the same as the Middle Road around the head 
of the Harbour to the junction of roads opposite Inglezvood, 
(p. 93). Here turn W., and a few rods beyond take first 
cross-road N., following the Harbour line, past WatervUle, 
on R., and Sunnyside, on L., Which has recently changed hands' 
and been renamed "Pomander Walk," because of the resem- 
blance of Its picturesque lane to the famous spot in Chelsea 
The wmdmg road here skirts a little Bay, Red Hole, directly 
opposite the A. S. C. wharf on the Hamilton side. Continuing 
S.W. for Yz mi., with fine panoramic view of Hamilton we 
pass on -L. Harbour Viezv, (p. 7), a small boarding-house.- 
and reach Blue Hole, a little Bay just opposite the Isle of 
IV kite (p. 50). Just beyond the high grounds on L., called 
GaUozvs Hill, is a cross-road running straight across the Is- 
land to the South Road. A little further on. another small 
boarding-house, Beverley (p. 7) is passed, and just beyond 
on a little peninsular, is the village of— 

Salt Kettle. This name dates hack to the early days of 
the colony, when salt pans were established here. Later, in 
1678, when the Bermudians began an extensive trade in salt 
obtained from Turks Island, Salt Kettle became an important 
storage place for the salt before it was res'hipped to American 
ports (see History, p. xxx). 

AT -^v^,'." ^^°5 the Rev. Gardiner Spring, for half a century one of 
New York s most famous preachers, brought his bride when he wa' 
teaching school m Warwick "Our friends at Salt Kettle had provided 
lodgings for us, on a healthful point of land, washed on three sides bv 
the ocean and nearly facing the town of Hamilton." Here at Glen 
Cove near the Salt Kettle ferry landing, Woodrow Wilson, then 
President-elect, spent part of Nov. and Dec, 1912. 

At W^etid of Salt Kettle Bay stands the Hotel Inverurie 
(p. 7), Head of the Waters," situated with its cottages di- 
rectly on the water's edge, with private landing, bath houses 
and bathing beach. Behind the Inverurie is a cross-road run- 

i^i"?.,^"^ ^^ *^ ^^^ ^°"^^ ^ho^e Road' and intersecting the 
Middle Road at Amen Corner (p. 120). 

A few rods W. of the Inverurie is the Public Wharf, where the 
ferryboats from Hamilton now usually stop instead of at Salt Kettle 
(p. 51). From here onward the Harbour Islands offer a constantly 
shifting panorama. On R., where Salt Kettle terminates in Mttsson Point, 



124 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

we see little Burnt Island, with Doctors Island and Spectacle Island 
further out. On L., is Godet or Hinson Island where the Bermuda & 
liest Atlantic Aviation Co. (p. 15) has its base, with Marshall Island 
further W. 

Between the Public Wharf and Spithead, about i mi. 
further on, five branch roads lead S. connecting with Middle 
Road respectively at Cambrae Hall (p. 120), Carberry Hill 
(p. 120), Belmont, main entrance (p. 120), Christ's Church 
(p. 121) and Warzvick Pond (p. 122). Spithead, on E promon- 
tory of Liitle Turtle Bay, was for many years a popular road- 
house, which prominent yachtsmen like James Gordon Bennett, 
used to single out for special luncheons and dinners. The 
property, however, was acquired some seven years ago by 
Mr. Louis F. Brown, an American journalist. 

Opposite Darrell Island the road curves S., meeting the 
Middle Road a few rods beyond the Warwick West Post 
Office (p. 122) Distance from Hamilton, 4^2 mi. 

III. The South Shore Road 

To reach the South Shore Road, follow the Middle Road 
westward to St. iP'a-ul's Church, Paget (p. 119), then turn S., 
passing on R. an old established boarding-house, Harmony 
Hall (p. 7). The road zigzags southwesterly, passing on 
L. Cataract Hill (192 ft.), one of the 'highest points on the 
South Shore. At the junction with the first cross-road is Mid- 
dleton Hill, named from a former owner. Just beyond, the 
road forks, the L. branch leading down to the shore of Elbozv 
Bay, so called from earliest times, obviously because of its 
shape, although in recent years it was known by the alternative 
name of Middleton Bay. 

Elba Beach. Along the shore of Elbow Bay for nearly 
I mi., is a gently shelving beach of rose-tinted coral sand, 
forming one of the most poipular bathing beaches on the Is- 
lands (p. 26). The land at the E. end of the Bay was ac- 
quired some years ago by a Canadian who rechristened it Elba 
Beach, a name that has won popular acceptance. He also 
erected on the heights above the beach the South Shore Hotel 
(p. 7), with ample veranda space, and accoimmodation for 
120 guests. 

On the edge of the cliff, at W. end of the beach, are the ruins of 
an old Colonial Fort, and immediately N. a more recently built, but 
now disused, fortification known as the Crozv's Lane Gun Position. 

Aeolian Hills. Along the South Shore, and notably at Elbow Bay, 
and Tucker's Town, there are sand-hills, called Aeolian Hills, because 
the sand washed up by the waves, is carried inland by the prevailing 
southerly and southwesterly winds. Formerly, there was at Elbow Bay 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 125 

a wonderful "sand-glacier," where the processes could be seen in 
operation. The sand had entirely filled up a valley, and was steadily 
advancing inland in a mass about 25 ft. thick. In its upward path, 
this "glacier" had overwhelmed a grove of cedars, also a cottage, 
formerly inhabited, but now completely buried save for one chimney 
that may still be seen, projecting like a tombstone from the N. W. 
corner of the drift. Quite recently these sand-dunes have been effec- 
tively stayed by the binding roots of certain plants and grasses that are 
found to thrive in such a soil. 

West of Elbow Bay the South Shore Road follows for 
nearly 5 mi. the curves and indentations of the shore cliffs, af- 
fording an uninterrupted panorama of the rugged, broken 
coast, forming a succession of bays and inlets, with the waves 
breaking on the submerged reefs beyond. Just beyond the 
Paget-Warwick boundary we pass, on R., Warzvick Camp, 
where the soldiers perform target practice and various 
manoeuvres. The iRifle Ranges are on L. on the beach below. 
This whole Warwick coast section is especially wild and 
isolated. It was used in the spring of 1920 for the setting of 
a new Pearl White moving-picture serial, for which purpose 
a small menagerie, including a trained lion and a troupe of 
monkeys were 'brought to Bermuda, and exploited on this 
beach. 

Beyond the Rifle Ranges, the road skirts the curve of 
Horse-shoe Bay, its W, promontory extending like crab's 
claws, embracing Port Royal Cove, with East Whale Bay just 
beyond. A quarter mile further we pass Sinky Bay, a pretty 
little inlet almost completely landlocked. Opposite, on R., a 
path ascends steepy to Gibb's Hill Lighthouse (p. 126). 

"There are some pretty little coves under the Lighthouse, having 
their shores irregularly indented by rocks, which have in some places 
become detached from the cliiTs above. Upon these rocks, and on the 
sides of the clififs grows a pretty species of stock (Maftl'.iola) , and in 
holes burrowed in the more friable rock, the Tropic Bird (Phaethon) 
makes its nest. Many species of algae can be collected about the shore; 
and the conchologist must not forget that it was under stones in this 
locality, where the Rev. J. E. Freer, in 1861, discovered the fine Pupa 
one inch in length, which has never been taken since. Here, too, 
occurs in great quantities Iiiiperator calcar, and also occasionally the 
large Echinus esculentns." — /. Matthews Jones. 

This whole section of the South coast is of special interest 
to geologists as showing in actual process* the successive steps 
of coastal disintegration through the action of the waves: 

"The district extending from Sinky Bay west and east, is specially 
instructive, as showing the method of erruption of the sea through low 
shore cliffs, to form small boat bays, and the gradual passage of these 
shore cliffs to lines of rocks and islets running parallel to the coast, 
and cutting out such bays as Whale Bay, Warwick Bay, Great Turtle 
Bay, etc. We may next follow the passage of these cliflfs to sub- 
merged ledges and their transformation into the boilers off the south 
shore, and the outer line of boilers, forming the so-called i-eef off the 



126 RIDEiR'S BERMUDA 

south shore. The most striking of the serpuline reefs are the fringing 
and barrier reefs, and their outlying atolls, off one of the points at 
the east end of Whale Bay, together with the line of atolls . . . 
extending to the eastward. Nowhere perhaps on the south shore do 
we see so clearly the transition of the isolated mushroom rock ledges, 
surmounted by aeolian pinnacles, into the ledges which are to become 
serpuline rocks, as in the district between Great Turtle Bay and the 
bay at the foot of Gibb»s Light House." — Alexander Agassis. 

Half a mile beyond Sinky Bay, where Church Road 
branches N. to the Middle Road and North Shore (p. 119), 
stands the Port Royal or Southampion Parish Church of S't. 
Ami, presumably on the site of the first church building erected 
ahout 1626. The present edifice (date not definitely known) is 
a severely plain structure, in form of a cross, with rather low 
ceiling, and with stone columns on each side supporting the 
superstructure, where the original walls were torn away when 
the transepts were added in 1826. 

The triple-lancet Memorial Window, at E. end, above. the Communion 
table, was erected, as provided in the will of Cecilia C. Todd, to her 
father, the Rev. Robert Hoare (i 777-1 856), for 48 years Rector of 
Southampton and Sandy's. Subject: St. Peter, with keys in right 
hand and Bible in left; nearby are three sheep, gazing upwards at him. 
Inscribed beneath: "Feed My Sheep." 

The square tower and bell above main west entrance, facing on 
Church Road, date from 1905. Over the door is inscribed: "To the 
Glory of God and to the memory of His Saints who have worshipped 
in this House and who rest around it, the Tower and Bell are dedicated." 

Beyond St. Ann's Church, the South Road passes Church 
Bay and then Turtle Bay, opposite which it curves due N. and 
joins the Middle Road (p. 128). 

Gibb's Hill Lighthouse, situated on the highest elevation 
along the S. coast, betw. Perinchief's Bay on ^N. and Sinky 
Bay on S., is reached either from the Middle Road at Port 
Royal (p. 122), a half-mile ascent, or by the shorter and 
steeper climb (% mi.) from the South Shore Road (p. 125). 
Following the former and more usual route, which presently 
makes a loop to S. E., the visitor completely loses sight of 
the Lighthouse, and sees it again only when at top of ascent. 
One of the three Keepers is always to be found either at the 
Lighthouse or in an adjacent cottage. The Lighthouse is open 
to the public daily, except Sundays and holidays, from 10 
A. M. to 4 P. M., from Oct. i to March 3f, and until 5 P. M. 
the rest of the year. A fee of i s. is expected. 

The Lighthouse is a circular iron tower, painted white, 
with a diameter of 24 ft. at base, tapering to 14 ft. at top. 
Height from ground level to observation gallery, 105 ft. 9 in., 
and to top of vane, 133 ft. 9 in., makins: a total of over 379 
ft. above sea level. The ascent is made by spiral stairway of 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 127 

about 190 steps. The foundation section being for 22 ft. ot 
solid concrete, 6 ft. thick, makes the stairs within this con- 
tracted space the narrowest and steepest of the whole ascent. 
At R. of entrance is a tablet. "This Lighthouse was designed 
by Alexander Gordon, Esq., Civil Engineer, London, and 
erected under the direction of Lieut.-Col. Philip Barry, com- 
manding Royal Engineers, Bermuda. Commenced Dec, 1844, 
completed, April, 1846, lighted, ist May, 1846." 

The Lighthouse was constructed in London, from Mr. Gordon's 
design, and erected under superintendence of George Grove, C.E. (builder 
of the original Trinity Church, on site of present Cathedral). Above 
the concrete foundation are seven 12-ft. sections, built of cast-iron 
plates, around a central steel column 90 ft. high, which sustains the 
weight of the revolving machinery of the light, etc. (approximately 
10 tons). 

The original cost of the tower, exclusive of the light machinery, 
was £5,500, which w-as borne by the Imperial Government on the under- 
standing that the Colony should pay the cost of lighting and repairing. 
In 1904 a new lighting apparatus, representing the latest development 
of lighthouse machinery was installed, and first exhibited on Sept. 26 
of that year, the installation having required over four months, since 
every section of the 10 tons of machinery had to be carried by hand 
up the winding stairs. The new^ light is among the largest and most, 
powerful in the world, giving an illuminating power of 99,930 candles, 
and is visible 27 miles in clear weather. It consists of a revolving 
dioptric lens in a gun-metal framework, and one central lamp with five 
concentric wicks, weighing collectively about 2 tons, and revolving by 
clockwork in a mercury bath. It gives a flash of 8/10 of a second every 
10 seconds. The light is intercepted at two points only: by a hill at 
St. George's, N. 43° 24" E. to N. 49° 34" E; and by a hill on South 
Side from N. 49° 7" E. to N. 57° 85" E. Fuel, mineral colza. Total 
cost, including fixing, £4,000. 

The view from the gallery is rivaled only by that from 
Town Hill (p. 81); and while the E. portion of the Island 
from Harrington Sound to St. George's is cut off by inter- 
vening hills, this is more than compensated by the magnificent 
panorama of the whole western curve through Somerset to 
Watford, Boaz and Ireland Island, with the whole expanse 
of the Great Sound stretching north and eastward, with the 
towers of Hamilton Cathedral and Sessions Hall plainly visible. 
Note especially the cluster of little islands lying almost at the 
door of the lighthouse, Spectacle IsLnd and Crumb-brush 
Island, whose shapes obviously explain their names. 

IV. The Middle Road from Gibb's Hill to Somerset 
Ferry 

Southampton and Somerset 

Westward from Port Royal Sign Post, where the Gibb's 
Hill Road branches L., the road follows the shore line of 
Perinchief's or Jew's Bay, enclosed by a small group of island : 



128 RIDER'S BERMUDA 

Crumb-brush or Perot's Island, Spectacle or Huni's Island, 
and lastly, the twin Bartlett's Islands, lying close to the little 
promontory forming E. end of Black Bay (^ mi.), lying 
directly beneath the W. extremity of Gibb's Hill, which forms 
a huge horse-shoe, with the Lighthouse on eastern end. Hair 
a mile further, after passing IVilson's Island, Church Road 
is readied, on L., leading S. to St. Anns Church (p. 126), 
on S. shore. Just beyond Seymour's Pond on L., is the junc- 
tion with the South Shore Road (i 1/3 mi.) ; and a little 
further it skirts Frank's Bay, opposite Southampton West Post 
Office. About y^ mi. beyond, we pass, on R., the little 
Wesley an Chapel, opposite a cross-road leading to Mt. Zion 
Chapel (Afr. M. E.) and South Shore. From here the road 
runs inland through the middle of Southampton, passing 
Evans' Pond on R., and reaching the Sandys Parish boundary 
^ mi. beyond. 

This section, immediately adjoining the Parish boundary line on 
either side, isl knoAvn as the Oi'erplns (see History p. xxv), comprising 
the 207 surplus acres between Sandys and Southampton, resulting from 
Norwo-od's instructions to survey Somerset Island, and work backward 
instead of docmpleting his survey westward fro'm Pembroke. Conse- 
quently, these two Parishes contain a larger acreage than the others, 
live extra shares having been added to Southampton, and two shares to 
Sandys. It was Governor Tucker's appropriation of the five Southampton 
shares to his own use, that caused a scandal which was a factor in 
shortening his term of office. Just opposite Evans' Pond, on L. of road, 
is The Grove, a part of Governor Tucker's holdings, which has descended 
ever since in the direct line from his nephew, George Tucker (p. 106), 

Bassett's Cave. Just beyond the parish boundary a branch 
road runs E. to George's Bay and Bassett's Cave, about j4 mi. 
This cave is of great extent, having been explored for more 
than a mile. It is, however, comparatively uninteresting, for 
it contains very few stalactites. 

Beyond the cross-road we reach the highest point of the up- 
grade over White Hill, and descend steadily for 2/3 mi. to 
Somerset Bridge (4 mi. from Port Royal). 

Wreck Hill. A few rods S. of the Bridge, a branch road 
leads W., skirting the head of Pilchard Bay (formerly Hog 
Bay), and continuing along the extreme W. peninsula of 
Bermuda, to Wreck Hill and Wreck Bay. This promontory 
is the land looked for and seen first when approaching the 
Islands from the west. The popular explanation of the name, 
Wreck Hill, has been that it was a lookout for wrecks in the 
days before the Lighthouse was built. The spot, however, 
is marked on Norwood's map of 1622 as ''Flemish Wreck"; 
and among the recently discovered letters of the Rev. Lewis 
Hughes is one dated Aug. 12, 1619, which tells of the wreck 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 129 

near Somerset of a Flemish Man-of-War, the crew of which 
contained four Englishmen and two negroes. As late as 1660 
there was an official known as the "Watch-keeper at Flemish 
Wreck." 

On Wreck Hill is the site of an Old Fort, connected with the 
famous powder raid of 1775. It seems that when the two ships came 
in to get the powder they anchored close in to the Somerset coast, 
passing through the reefs and lying for several days oflf the "snapper 
ground." Each vessel was commanded by a Tucker, thoroughly familiar 
with local rocks and shoals. Their first act was to dismount the 10 
guns on Wreck Hill and roll them down the steep decline, so that no 
fire could be directed on their ships. It is said that these guns still lie 
buried in the sand where they were dropped, except one which was 
taken up and placed at Timlin's Narrow's. 

Near Somerset Bridge, on IR., stands Bridge House, one 
of the two famous old Tucker homesteads (the other being 
The Grove, at Port Royal), former home of Chief Justice 
John Tucker (1748-49), ancestor through a grand-daughter, of 
Thomas Addis Emmet, the Irish Patriot. 

Somerset Bridge connects the island of Somerset with the 
southern portion of Sandys Parish. A bridge of some sort 
has spanned this channel since 1620. The view westward fronj 
the bridge includes, first The Scaur, deeply indenting the 
island to N. E. ; then beyond, the narrow opening betw. Gibbs' 
Point, on R., and Whale Island, on L., with Elys Harbour 
Just beyond, enclosed on W. by the long tongue of land beyond 
Wreck Hill, and a chain of small islands beyond it. 

The name, Somerset Island has sometimes been explained as a 
tribute to Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset, and a favorite of King 
James I. Carr, however, had fallen from favor and was prisoner in 
the Tower on a murder charge about the time when the name was first 
conferred. The obvious explanation is that given by Governor Butler 
in his Historye of the Bertmidaes, where, speaking of Admiral Somers' 
eagerness to found a colony, "though it were but by the purse and 
means of himself and his friends," he adds parenthetically, "and witt- 
nesse that part of Sands his Tribe, called by him Sommers-seate." 

Beyond the bridge the road skirts the E. bank of the long 
triangular bay called The Scaur. Just around the head of the 
bay, on L., is Scaur Lodge (p. 8), for many years one of 
the most, popular road-houses and boarding-houses on the 
Islands, having entertained the present King George V, when 
he commanded the Thrush. It w'as refitted and opened as a 
well-appointed hotel in 1913. At the extreme end of Gibbs' 
Point, running back behind Scaur Lodge 1/3 mi., stand the 
remarkable Cathedral Rocks, or Old Church Rocks, carved 
and worn by the sea into curious columns and arches, re- 
sem'bling the ruins of some ancient temple. 



130 RIDEiR'S BERMUDA 

"Probably the Cathedral Rocks have been formed mainly by the 
rapid erosion of a thick bed of only slightly consolidated sand, in which 
many vertical fissures had allowed the percolating waters to consolidate 
the adjacent sand into harder rocks, which now stand up like pillars, 
supporting the arches of overlying limestone. No doubt there was a 
time, before the erosion had progressed so far, when these archways 
and pillars formed the support of a cavern of considerable extent. But 
the pillars are not true stalactites, as they are in some of the other 
caverns, but mere vertical masses of shell-sand, so impregnated and 
over-crusted by stalactite material that they are very hard and resistant." 
— A. E. Verrill. 

The cottage opposite Scaur Lodge was leased in 19 13 by Dr. M. M. 
Miller, formerly connected with Princeton University, who opened the 
natural features of his property, the Boiling Hole Grotto and Fish Pond 
to the public. 

_ The road here climbs the W. flank of Scaur Hill (142 ft.), 
which is Government property, surmounted by a fort. On 
the N. side of the fort is a curious milestone marked, "London, 
3076 miles." It stands about 300 yds. below the wall, at the 
foot of a wide flight of steps, facing the Great Sound. On 
the opposite or N. side is inscribed, "27th Regiment, R. E., 
1906." Some member of that regiment determined the exact 
distance by astronomical calculation. 

Half a mile beyond Scaur Hill the road forks, the Daniel's 
Head Road following the shore line on L., while the main road 
ascends Church Hill, passing on L. — 

St. James's Church, Sandys Parish. Beyond the fact that 
the original church occupying the present site was wellnigh 
demolished by a hurricane in 1780, little is known of its 
history ; but it doubtless originally faced east, like the other 
Parish churches, with the main entrance on the Daniel's Head 
Road. When rebuilt its position was reversed in order to 
bring the front entrance upon the main road. 

The main portion of the present church dates from 1789. Like mo?t 
Parish Churches in Bermuda it was consecrated by Bishop Inglis in 1826. 
The north and south aisles were added in 1836. The present tasteful 
layout of the church grounds and the dignified entrance gate, were 
the work of Lieut. Beamish, R.E., in 1872. The chancel and spire date 
from 1880, and were designed by the late Dr. Henry J. Hinson. 

The church contains several fine memorial windows, notably, the 
Harvey Window in the chancel, by Prady of London. A special interest 
attaches to the organ, which when installed, oyer 50 years ago, was 
admittedly the finest in Bermuda. It was specially constructed for St. 
James's Church from specifications furnished by a convict, who possesFed 
practical knowledge of organ building, and was at the time undergoing 
sentence at Boaz Island. 

In the churchyard, near the main church entrance, is an 
interesting memorial to Col. Henry Tucker (1713-87) of The 
Grove, and his wife, Anne Bntterfield (d. 1797). Erected 
by their sons and daughters. This is not only the most dis- 
tinguished branch of one of the oldest Bermuda families. 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 131 

directly descended from a brother of Capt. Daniel Tucker, 
second Governor of the Islands, but has a special^ appeal to 
Americans, since two of Col. Henry's sons and their descend- 
ants have -played prominent parts in American affairs. 

Col. Henry Tucker had four sons and a daughter: i. Henry, the 
eldest (1742-1808), was for many years President of the Cotincii, and 
four times acting Governor of Bermuda. He married Frances, daughter 
of Governor George James Bruere. Their eldest son, Henry, was 
President of the East India Company (see memorial tablet in St. Peter's 
Church, p. 104). II. Frances (1740-1825), married Henry Tucker of 
Bridge House (p. 130). III. Thomas Tudor (b. 1744) • He settled in 
South Carolina, served as a surgeon during the Revolution, and was 
United States Treasurer, 1801-28. IV. Nathaniel Tucker (1750-1807), 
settled in Lancashire, England, and practised medicine, but is chiefly 
remembered as first English translator of Swedenborg's Divine Provi- 
dence, and other works. V. St. (George (b. 1752), settled in Virginia 
and was an officer in the American Revolution. He is credited with 
having played a leading part in the famous powder raid of 1775 (p. 102). 
Subsequently, he became Professor of Law at William and Mary's 
College, and was known as the "Virginia Blackstone." 

The northeast end of Somerset Island broadens out -not 
unlike a maple leaf, with numerous points and intervening 
bays. First, Long Point projects like a long, slim finger S. E. 
into the Great Sound. Next comes Sugar Cane Point, from 
which the bridge crosses to Watford Island, and betw. this and 
King's Point lies Mangrove Bay. Beyond, on the ocean side, is 
Chamberladn Bay, a reminder that Richard Chamberlain, one 
of the original "Adventurers," in 1616 owned part of the land 
abutting on this Bay. The historic old name has recently given 
place to Long Bay. Collectors find this 'stretch of sandy beach 
a fertile hunting ground ; for since it lies open to heavy western 
gales fine specimens of sea mosses, shells and sponges are often 
cast ashore. Still further W. is Daniel's Head, on which 
H. M. Wireless Telegraph Station is situated. 

About 54 rni- beyond St. James' Church, the Somerset 
Methodist Church is passed. Between here and Watford 
Bridge, ^ mi. beyond, a large and growing settlement^ has 
sprung up in recent years, on the S. E. side of the road, along 
the Great Sound, ^constituting the Village of Somerset, and 
merging on W. with the older settlement on Mangrove Bay. 
A little beyond the Methodist Church is the Royal Naval 
Cricket Field (p. 23.) There are in Somerset a number of 
dry-goods and other stores, including a branch of Trimingham 
Bros., Hamilton; also a branch of the Bank of Bermuda. 
Summerside (p. 8) is an attractive little rural hotel, spread- 
ing out like an amplified bungalow, and accommodates 20 
guests. On iRl of the main road, near Watford Bridge, is 
Masonic Hall, Prince Alfred Lodge No. 233. This Lodge held 
under warrant of Grand Lodge of England, dated Sept. 28, 



132 RIDEiR'S BERMUDA 

1801, was originally named "Somerset Lodge," the name being 
changed to "Pnince Alfred" in 1862. The Hall dates from 1845. 

VI. From Somerset- Watford Bridge to Ireland 

Island Dockyard 

Watford, Boaz and Ireland Islands 

Until 1903 the only connection betw. Somerset and Wat- 
ford Island, was by ferry. The Watford Island bridge was 
formally opened by Governor Geary on Sept. 24 of that year. 
Including approaches, its total length is 750 ft.^ The girder 
work measures 440 ft., and is supported on six piers. A 40-ft. 
swing in the centre admits small boats to Mangrove Bay. 

Watford, formerly Waterford, and Boaz Island connect 
Somerset with Ireland Island. They contain little to interest 
the visitor, and are not even picturesque, since much of their 
surface was formerly levelled by convict labor. Boaz Island, 
formerly called Gates' Island, presumably in honor of Sir 
Thomas Gates (p. 46), contained the principal barracks and 
stores for the convicts during the 20 years that Bermuda was 
a penal station, while on Watford was located the convict 
burial-ground. 

The extensive work required by the Ireland Island Dockyard led 
to the decision to employ convict labor, and in 1842 the first consign- 
ment of 300 convicts arrived from England. The number was gradually 
increased until, in 1848, they numbered over 1500. When Boaz Island 
became overcrowded some were quartered on Ireland Island, and still 
larger numbers upon old man-of-war hulks, anchored off the Dockyard. 
John Mitchel, the Irish Patriot, who underwent 10 months of his prison 
sentence in Bermuda, has left a vivid, and grim picture of convict life 
in his "Jail Journal. In his time (1848) there were three of these 
hulks, the Medrvay, Coromandel and Dromedary, in the last of which 
he was confined. Lord Dundonald was the first to protest against the 
inhumanity of these hulks, and their removal was the first step toward 
the abolishment in 1861 of the convict system. The last of the convicts 
were removed in 1863, From first to last over 9000 were sent to 
Bermuda, of whom more than 2000 died, the yellow fever epidemic of 
1853 taking a heavy toll. 

"We passed close by a piece of ground on this island (Watford), 
neatly laid out as a graveyard. The Commander, seeing me look at it, 
informed me that it was the convict cemetery; for convicts, when they 
die, are not suffered to repose in churchyards by the side of corpses 
that take their ease in consecrated ground. I looked now still more 
curiously at the cemetery, and cannot say that I liked it. . . . Yet 
it is far from improbable that in this small inclosure between the sea 
and the cedars my bones will rest at last." — John Mitchel, "Jail Journal." 

The road skirts the W. shore of Watford Island passing, 
on R. the Convict Cemetery, and beyond it, the Fever Hospital 
and Station Hospital. A short bridge leads to Boaz Island, a 
scant half mile long, now a military establishment, known as 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 133 

Clarence Barracks. From Boaz Island we cross by Gray's 
Bridge to — 

Ireland Island. This island is about iH ^i- in length, and 
has been made into three islands by artificial cuts.. Of these, 
. the principal, Cockhurn's Cut, was commenced by Admiral 
Cockburn in 18 15, and finished about three years later. The 
name, Ireland Island, has given rise to numerous conjectures, 
but seems abundantly explained by its geographical position 
in relation to the rest of the group. 

"I have found no historical reason for the name, Ireland Island. 
It may, perhaps, have been so called from its green verdure, and its 
position across the channel from the early settlement at Spanish Point. 
It was sometimes called Long Point in early times." — A. E. Verrill. 

The importance of Ireland Island dates from 1795, when, 
in pursuance of Admiral Murray's recommendation to establish 
a dockyard in Bermuda, the Legislature was summoned on 
Oct. 6 of that year to make the needed grants and enactments, 
and Captain Pinder, R. N. recommended this island as the 
most suitable site. The island was purchased by the Imperial 
Government in 1809, and preliminary operations were begun 
in Jan., 18 10, for the establishment of a Dockyard. A recur- 
rent statement in handbooks on Bermuda pictures the Island 
at that time as still covered with a dense growth of cedar 
trees and sage bushes, and over-run with wild hogs. Yet this 
picture does not agree with the few contemporary glimpses 
afforded, for Ireland Island was certainly inhabited and partly 
settled much earlier. Whitefield, the Revivalist, records in 
1748: ^ ^ ^ 

"Went to an island this afternoon called Ireland, upon which live 
a few families, and to my surprise found a great many gentlemen and 
other people, who came from different quarters to hear me." 

And J. Matthews Jones quotes "an old lady living in Ber- 
muda in 1876, aged 93, who well recollected the time when 
Ireland and Boaz were inhabited by fishermen, who lived in 
huts made of boughs of cedar, and brush for sides, and having 
the roofs thatched with palmetto." 

Work on the dockyard was carried on first by slave labor, under 
superintendence of skilled artisans from England; and in 1810 the first 
detachment of Royal Engineers arrived to assist in the work. Frnrn 
1842^ to 186.? slave labor was replaced by convict labor. The strategic 
position of Bermuda was first realized at the time of the American 
Revolution; but it was not until the close of the Civil War that the 
Imperial Government planned the elaborate system of fortifications that 
soon made the Islands a second Gibraltar, and prepared to equip the 
dockyard for the reception and repairs of the largest type of battleshins. 
Some of the main defences of the Islands are the forts and batteries 
that protect this important dockyard. 

The lower end of Ireland Island forms a small triangle, 
separated from the northern portion by a long lagoon with 



134 RIDEIRPS BERMUDA 

artificial cuts at each end. The road following the ocean side 
passes, on iR., the Royal Naval Hospital (established in 1818), 
picturesquely placed on a hill. Just beyond the bridge, over 
Cut, on R., is Foresters' Hall (Ancient Order of Foresters, 
Court Bermuda, No. 5319). 

The Naval Cemetery, occupying a wide trace of ground 
on R., is much admired for its attractive layout of cedar 
groves alternating with glades of smooth greensward. A 
melancholy interest attaches to many memorials erected here 
to officers and crews of men-of-war, which sailed from Ber- 
muda and were lost at sea. Other monuments commemorate 
the toll taken from the navy by the epidemics of 1843 and 1853. 
Four Admirals are here buried, who died^ while attached to 
this station, the latest being Vice-Admiral Sir Trevylyan 
Dacres Willis Napier, who died at Admiralty House July 30, 
1920, barely six months after his arrival. 

Three conspicuous monuments mark the graves of the three Admirals 
who died at earlier dates: Vice-Admiral Sir Edward Griffiths Colpoys, 
who died in 1827; Vice-Admiral Sir Thomas Harvey, d. 1844 and Vice- 
Admiral Sir Charles Paget. In 1839 Sir Charles left Jamaica on 
H. M. S. Tartarus, to proceed to Bermuda, for the benefit of his health, 
as he was then convalescing from yellow fever. But for five weeks 
the steamer, having no chronometer on board, and being unable to 
determine the latitude, roamed back and forth without finding the 
Islands. The anxiety and delay were too much for the sick Admiral, 
and he died before reaching port. 

There is also a memorial to the officers and crev/ of H. M. S. Acorn 
and H. M. S. Tempest, which while serving as mail packets between 
Halifax and Bermuda, by a strange coincidence, left their respective 
ports on the same day, and were never heard of afterward. 

Beyond the cemetery, on R., are the Chapel, Parsonage and 
Mechanics' Quarters. The first building on L. is Masonic 
Hall, Ireland Island, meeting place of Loyalty Lodge, No. 
358, constituted in 1817, and considered one of the finest in 
Bermuda. 

Loyalty Lodge was consecrated at Lodge Point, on the Great Sound, 
due S. E. from the present Hall. In 1857 as result of a petition to the 
Admiralty, the present site on N. side of the Island was granted, and 
the Hall erected. 

Near Lodge Point, facing S. end of Lagoon, stands^ The 
Sailors' Home, the corner-stone of which was laid April 12, 
1880, by the late !Prince Albert Victor, Duke of Clarence and 
Avondale, and Prince George, Prince of Wales. The Home 
was opened by Admiral Commerell, Nov. 15, 1884, on which 
occasion autographed portraits presented by Queen Victoria 
and the Prince and Princess of Wales were hung in the 
Reading-room. 

Beyond Masonic Hall, the Barracks and officers' quarters 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 135 

extend along the road for a half-mile; Albert Row and 
Victoria Row on the ocean side, and Prince Alfred Terrace 
toward the Great Sound. We now cross a short bridge over 
Cockburn's Cut, Just S. of the Cut, on the ocean side, stands 
Pulpit Rock, another singular freak of limestone formation 
eroded by the waves. Directly opposite Cut, in the Great 
Sound, lies Cross Island, so named on Norwood's map of 
1663; but it was called Sober Island on the Admiralty chart, 
and later was rechristened Magazine Island, A romantic in- 
terest attaches to this island, because of a tradition that a 
wooden cross found upon it pointed to the hiding place or 
places of buriedi Spanish treasure. 

In early days this cross was found nailed to a tree-trunk on Cross 
Island, and stood with one of its arms pointing to Spanish Point, and 
thd other to a marked yellowwood tred on Ireland Island. 

Just beyond )Cockburn's Cut, the Royal Naval Club 
(ip. 23) is passed on L,, N. of whidh lies Moresby's Plain, 
where all the Dockyard athletic contests take place. The lOop 
yds. rifle range extends, on the ocean side, from the S. limit 
of Moresby's Plain to the targets at the N.E. point of Ire- 
land Island, 

The Dockyard, a half-mile in length, occupying the whole 
northern end of the Island, contains in addition to the docks, 
arsenals, machine shops, etc., the residence of the Captain-in- 
Charge, the Commissioner's house and an Episcopal Chapel. 
The Commissioner's house, a conspicuous building completely 
surrounded by a verandah, was built albout 1828. The 
main interest of the Dockyards, however, centers in the 
huge floating dock, anchored in the Camber or open 
basin constructed on the E. side of the Island, in Grassy Bay, 
by means of a breakwater more than Vi mi. in length, afford- 
ing accommodation for a large number of vessels. 

The forerunner of the present floating dock was launched at 
Sheerness, England, in 1868, and upon completion was towed to Bermuda, 
arriving July 29, 1869. At that time it was the largest floating dock 
in the world, weighing 8200- tons and measuring 381 ft. in length by 
124 ft. broad, and 74 ft, deep. Cost, £250,000. 

The present Floating Dock, a far larger structure, was completed 
in 1902, and left the Medway for Bermuda on June 16, stopping four 
days at the Azores because of bad weather, and reaching Bermuda 
Aug. 7. The principal dimensions of this new dock, which was finally 
placed in position June 6, 1905,. are as follows: length over all, 545 ft.; 
breadth over all, 126 ft. 2 in.; height of vertical walls, 56 ft. 3 in.; 
thickness of walls, 13 ft. i in.; total weight of hull, 6500 tons; extreme 
lifting power, 17,500 tons. 

During the extensive submarine blastings necessitated in the course 
of excavating a bed of sufficient depth for the reception of the earlier 
dock, some interesting geological discoveries were made, "The excava- 
tions extended to a depth of fifty-two feet below low water mark. At 



136 RIDEiRfS BERMUDA 

46 feet occurred a layer of red earth two feet in thickness, containing 
remains of cedar trees, which layer rested upon a bed of compact 
calcareous sandstone." — J. Matthews Jones. 

Before the construction o£ fortifications closed Ireland 
Island to scientific exploration, it offered both to the geologist 
and general sightseer a number of natural wonders in the shape 
of caves and curious rock formations that are now lost. Lieut. 
Nelson who, in 1837, superintended the excavations of the 
North Bastion, describes a little cavern, "unrivalled among 
the caves of Bermuda," which was opened up in the course 
of the work: 

"This little cave had a length of eighty feet, a breadth of about 
thirty, a height above the little lake of within at most fifteen feet, 
and a depth below the surface of scarcely exceeding fourteen. The 
stalactites were remarkably clear and beautiful, varying from massive 
pendants of six to ten feet, to slender incipient fragile tubes that 
crumbled at the slightest touch. This cave was destroyed,, as interfering 
with the safety of the works." 

At such times as the Dockyard is open to the public, visi- 
tors are admitted without a pass, daily except Sundays, from 
10 A.M. to 12 noon. Cameras, however, must be left at en- 
trance gate. The Dockyard can be most conveniently and 
quickly reached from Hamilton (40 min.) by the steam ferry, 
run by the Bermuda Transportation Co. (p. 14). The best 
plan is to go at least one way by water and thus avoid the 
monotony of a return trip over the same road. 

VII. The Islands in the Great Sound 

The principal islands in the Great Sound are grouped 
in two well defined chains, running E. & W., the more southerly 
extending from opposite Little Turtle Bay, in Warwick to 
St. George's Bay, near Somerset Bridge, and comprising Dar- 
rell's Island, Burt or Moses Island, Rickets Island, Grace Is- 
land and Morgan's and Tucker's Islands, formerly known as 
the Brother Islands. The more northerly chain runs west- 
ward from Salt Kettle, two-thirds of the way across the Sound 
toward Mangrove Bay, with a subsidiary chain or spur curving 
N. toward Mill Point, Pembroke, — ^the whole group forming 
a well defined letter Y. The main chain comprises, from E. to 
W., Hinson or Godet Island, separated by Timlin's Narrows 
from Marshall Island, then Fern, Ports and Nelly Islands, 
with Long Island lying parallel on the N. ; then Elisabeth Isl- 
and, the Omega Rocks, and lastly, Pearl Island. The chain 
of islets curving northward from the E. end of Long Island, 
are projections from a submerged ridge which originally barred 
the entrance to Hamilton Harbour for large vessels, and through 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 137 

which the "One Rock Passage" and "Two Rock Passage" have 
been blasted out. 

Tucker's Island (PI. Ill— C4) is, of all the islands in the 
Sound, most worthy of a visit, for it contains one of the most 
interesting and earliest known caves. Lieut. Nelson, in 1837, 
wrote enthusiastically, "Tucker's Island Cavern is a perfect bi- 
jou; with one exception, it has hitherto stood unrivalled among 
the caves of Bermuda," the one exception being the now des- 
troyed cave on Ireland Island (p. 136). The island itself is 
an irregular crescent, its two points enclosing Horse-shoe Bay 
on W., while the cave lies across the island on the E. shore. 

"In the large cavern on Tucker's Island the bottom is covered by 
six to ten feet of clear sea water, beneath which I saw, in 1901, many 
large pointed stalagmites standing upright, but not; reaching the surface. 
Some of these were more than a foot in diameter. This cavern has to 
be explored in a boat. Its roof is supported by large stalactite columns 
many of which are of hardened limestone, thickly encrusted with dull- 
colored stalactitic material, but most of them extend beneath the sea 
water to the bottom." — A. E. Verrill. 

Grace, Rickets, Burt and Darrell's Islands have long been 
popular with Bermudians for summer camping places. The 
last named was once a quarantine station; and the little grave 
yard near the S. shore is mainly filled with small-pox victims. 
Ports Island, ^ mi. due N., was also a quarantine station dur- 
ing the yellow fever epidemics ; but its grim traditions seem to 
have been no deterrent to pleasure seekers : 

"Oddly enough, this island has always been a popular resort of 
picnic parties; and the very apartments which the fever stricken patients 
had lived and died in were often used for dancing. It is certainly a 
pretty spot, and the hard pine floors are smooth and large, and are 
excellent for dancing purposes, but an air of melancholy pervades the 
whole island." — Stark's "Bermuda.'' 

Typical oi the monuments in the little cemetery at N. E. point of 
the island, is one of granite bearing the following inscription: "In 
memory of Messieurs Grateau, Surgeon of Ville Suzanne, and nine of 
the French frigate L'Armide, who. died of yellow fever in this island in 
August, 1852, and whose remains are interred near thisi spot." 

Many of the larger islands in the Great Sound group, in- 
cluding Tucker's, Morgan's, Burt, Darrell and Ports Islands, 
were used as detention camps during the Boer War ; and ap- 
proximately five thousand Boer prisoners w^ere confined on 
them for nearly two years. After the war the majority took 
the oath of allegiance to Great Britain, and were sent home, A 
few refused to take the oath and consequently were not al- 
lowed to return. There are less than a dozen of these recalci- 
trants still in Bermuda. 

"The burghers were guarded by soldiers and gunboats, but the 
internal government of each laager rested with the prisoners, who 
selected their own officers to enforce camp rules. The men occupied 



138 RIDEIR'S BERMUDA 

their time in fishing, bathing, and making souvenirs, with which they 
flooded Bermuda. They were well fed and clothed, and there was prac- 
tically no sickness in the camps," — Hayward, "Bermuda Past and 
Present." 

On Long Island is the Boer Cemetery, where the 29 Boer 
prisoners who died during their detention, are interred. The 
Bber prisoners having expressed a desire to erect a monu- 
ment to mark the place df burial of their comrades, the mili- 
tary authorities encouraged the movement, and application was 
made to the Building Committee of the Hamilton Cathedral for 
advice and assistance, through whose generous response the 
monument was provided. 

It consists of an obelisk of Wallace, Nova Scotia, freestone, on a 
base of Bermudian limestone. The Monument Committee supplied the 
labor, and the Building Committee supplied the stone. The names of 
the deceased and date of death are inscribed in both Dutch and English, 
with numbers prefixed referring to the separate headstones. 

Marshall and Godet, or Hinson Islands, directly E. of 
Ports Island, are both fertile hunting grounds for the student 
of marine life. Along their shores may be obtained many fine 
specimens of sponges, zoophytes, and small crustaceans. On 
Hinson Island are the headquarters and hangars of the Ber- 
muda and West Atlantic Aviation Co. (p. 15). 

The passage between these two islands, called Timlin's Narrows, 
was first deepened in 1843. While blasting out the rocks in this channel, 
the drills suddenly entered a submarine cavern. When gunpowder was 
exploded in it, the depth of the channel was at once increased from 15 
to 22 ft. This cavern contained red clay and stalactites. 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 139 

7. THE OUTER REEFS 

I. The Sea-Gardens 

The **Sea-Gardens, as Bermudians term the marvellously 
varied submarine life of the coral reefs and lagoons, ex- 
tending to the outer limits of the now submerged tract that 
once constituted Greater Bermuda, form a vast and ever 
changing natural aquarium, in which, thanks" to the pellucid 
clearness of the water, the whole kaleidoscopic panorama of 
marine life may be seen to a depth of thirty or forty feet 
with the same vividness and minuteness of detail as if at close 
range, through the transparent wall of a glass tank. There 
are other famous marine gardens, besides those in Bermuda, 
notably those along the California coast; ibut they all lack 
the marvellous diversity of background, in both form and 
color, due to unique conditions of geological changes and 
coral growth, that have combined to make these Bermuda Sea- 
Gardens one of the few sights deserving of world-wide fame. 
It is not surprising to find that even sedate men of science 
allow themselves some latitude of extravagance in their de- 
scriptions of Bermuda's chief attraction. While even the best 
attempts are impotent to suggest the infinite variety of the 
spectacle presented, that changes with every ripple of the 
tides, it is interesting to compare the impressions produced, 
and the enthusiasm awakened in visitors of widely different 
types and callings: 

"Look beneath, through the glass bottom of your boat, as it drifts 
idly over the submarine gardens. Tall black rods, and purple sea-fans, 
having root in the sandy floor, rise upward and wavei gracefully in the 
tide, like tree ferns swept by mild zephyrs. Weeds of many colors, 
scarlet and green sponges, clusters and sprays of white coral, bulky 
'sea-puddings' — the Chinaman's delicacy — are scattered about promiscu- 
ously, and to ledges of rock, coated sometimes in pink, cling brilliant 
anemones and more strange weeds, delicate alike in shade and texture. 
There is constant play of fishes. The Spotted Moray coils its length 
in a coral cavity to watch its prey; Gray Snappers lurk in the shade 
of an overhanging shoal; the Fishing-fish, rnotionless beside the scarlet 
sponge, of which it seems a part, sets its baited rod above its mouth to 
lure harmless shrimps. Gorgeous Parrot-fishes; Angels, fringed with 
gold; jaunty Sergeant-Majors, bearing stripes of rank; dainty Four- 
eyes, red Squirrels, white and yellow Grunts, schools of silvery fry 
pass in review,, and occasionally, if hunger be pressing, the Octopus, 
ever" ready to baffle an enemy by changing color, is seen to spread his 
tentacles for the unwary crab. It is all very unique, and deceptive too, 
for the transparency of the water makes every living thing seem almost 
at arm's length." — Hayward, "Bermuda Past and Present. 

Here is a bit of colorful description by Prof. Charles L. 
Bristol, who was mainly instrumental in founding the former 
biological station and Aquarium at Agar's Island (p. 74) : 



140 RIDERI'S BERMUDA 

"The reefs of Bermuda, appropriately called sea-gardens by the 
Bermudians, are easily visited, and the colored fishermen, who spend 
almost all their lives upon them, know them as well, if not better than 
the landsman knows the land. Their boats are equipped with water- 
glasses, through which one sees to the bottom through thirty feet of 
water as through a window. The coral masses are of various colors—- 
some yellow, some chocolate brown, others almost white. Great Sea- 
rods and Sea-fans (Gorgonias) wave lazily in the tides, and stand out 
in boldly contrasting colora of purple or brown from among the masses 
of green or olive sea-weeds. Here and there are clusters of sponges — 
some bright scarlet, somel vivid green, others dull and inconspicuous. 
Sea-urchins, deep black with long spines {Diodema), or purple and 
partly covered with dead shells, sea-weed or other flotsam (Toxopneu- 
stes), stand out like knobs on the rocks. Great Sea-puddings, as a 
holothurian (Stichopus) is called crowd together at the bottom, while 
in the crannies and on the sides of the rocks is a great host of calcare- 
ous weeds, mollusks, lime-secreting, tube-building worms, ascidians, 
hydroids, and beautiful sea-anemones." 

And here is the reaction of a tramed artist and illustrator, 
Charles Livingston Bull, who visited Bermuda in 1904: 

"Garden it is, if any man-mad© word may be applied, for the great 
purple sea-fans sway backward and forward, waving their branches 
to the rhythm of the swell, just as the pine boughs sway to the breeze. 
Huge sprays of coral are there too; some of it star-shaped, some like 
the great antlers of a forest monster, and some as finely wrought as 
the most delicate lace, so frail in texture as to cause one tg wonder 
how it can bear the motion of the swell . . . At a first glance 
through the water-glass, one receives the impression that the bottom 
of the sea has been covered with a carpet." 

In the early days of tourist travel, a visit to the reefs was 
an undertaking involving a long tedious row, or a trip in a 
smiall sail-(boat through intricate channels, with just enough 
risk to deter many timid souls. When the Bermuda Transpor- 
tation Co. acquired a fleet of excursion steamers, including the 
Corona and the Princess, with respective capacity of 500 and 
1000 passengers, the Sea- Gardens were at once placed within 
easy access, and are now enjoyed by a large majority of visi- 
tors. Before the war these steamers made one or more trips 
daily in winter, and ran at frequent intervals in summer — 
always, of course, if weather permitted. At present the sum- 
mer trips are much less frequent, and visitors will do well, 
especially if their stay is limited, to ascertain promptly upon 
arrival when the next trip will be made ; as otherwise they may 
miss their one chance of visiting the Sea-Gardens comfortably. 
This, however, does not apply to tourists taking any oi the 
regular, eight, nine or fourteen-day trips, since these include 
in their scheduled itinerary an excursion to the Sea-Gardens. 

In point of fact, the outer reefs and lagoons are not the only 
places where the life of the marine depths can be enjoyed through the 
crystal water. There are many parts of Castle Harbour and Harring- 
ton Sound where the distinctive features of the Sea Gardens can be 



BERMUDA WESTWARD 141 

enjoyed with less exertion, and on a somewhat smaller scale — either 
from boats or even from the rocky shores of some of the little islands, 
where they descend almost perpendicularly to where the same assort- 
ment of brilliant fishes dart and flash through chambers of living coral. 

III. North Rock 

On the N. side of the ellipse of outer reefs surrounding 
Bermuda, the line of the reefs is nearly continuous; but the 
only dry land is the little islet or group of islets almost due N. 
of Flatts Village, the largest of which is called "^North Rock, 
and is about 8 ft. in diameter, and 14 ft. in height. During 
some 6 hours of the day these isolated rock pinnacles are united 
by a level base of honeycombed and eroded reef, several yards 
in viridth, affording a landing place where a number of visitors 
can find substantial foothold. The trip, however, has been 
rarely taken by sightseers, except in the interests of science, 
since the distance from the main land renders access difficult, 
and it is only under exceptionally favorable conditions of water, 
that the reef can be approached with comparative safety. 
Measured in a direct line the North Rock lies 67/^ mi. N.N.W. 
from St. Catherine's Fort, and 11 mi. N.E. from Ireland Bas- 
tion. The trip should be attempted only under guidance of 
one of the older and experienced native pilots. Small steamers 
or motor boats can get within 5^ to ^ mi. of the reef, where 
they must anchor, and the remainder of the trip be made by 
rowboat. North Rock is now surmounted by a 60-ft. iron 
tower, erected about 1912, surmounted by an automatic acety- 
lene light. 

Since these Rocks constitute the sole remnants of what were 
once islands, now destroyed by the sea, they naturally offer a 
special attraction to geologists. Professor Agassis found them 
"undoubtedly the most interesting monument left of the former 
extension of the Bermudian land," while Ptofessor Heilprin 
declares even more sweepingly that they are, "beyond com- 
parison, the most interesting feature which the Bermudas have 
to offer." The North Rock has frequently been described as 
the oldest exposed rock formation in Bermuda. Agassis, how- 
ever, finds the ledge differing in no essential features from simi- 
lar ledges off the South Shore: 

"Its surface rises here and there in low ridges, which are the 
remnants of the last pinnacles to be eroded; near the edges and wher- 
ever the action of the breakers reaches, it has been dug into so as to 
form pools, pits and potholes of various depths and shapes, and has 
been honeycombed in all directions, according to the quality and hard- 
ness of the rock, and the extent of protection afforded by the growth 
of Algae, Corallines, Serpulae and other organisms. The North Rock 
Ledge is deeply undercut, and, like many of the larger islets oflf the 



142 RIDER^S BERMUDA 

main island, its sides are more or less vertical. . . . The greater part 
of its surface is protected by the hard, ringing aeolian rock, charac- 
teristic of the exposed intertidal spaces " 

Much the same view is expressed in the Report of the 
Voyage of H. M. S. Challenger: 

"North Rock ig composed of the same '^Eolian' rocks as the mass 
of land to the southeast, and this indicates an extension of the land 
surface of the atoll in this direction at a former period. Although the 
outer reef is almost continuous, there is no well defined lagoon as in a 
typical atoll. The whole of the northern portion of the banks is 
crowded with coral flats and heads, with intervening lanes and spaces 
of coral sand, with a depth of vnsually four or five fathoms, and nowhere 
more than ten fathoms." 

What especially impressed Professor Heilprin was that the 
reef contained no loose holders of rock, such as one might have 
expected to find thrown up by the disintegrating force of the 
breakers. "Everything was firm and compact, except along the 
margins where the growth of Millepores formed veritable but 
readily destructable chevaux-de-frise. Walking on this part is 
dangerous." 

Equally fertile, if not even greater opportunities are afforded to the 
naturalist, by the abundant marine life on and around the North Rock 
Ledge. "Here in the pools and passages is a greater wealth and variety 
of life than can be found in an equal area elsewhere in all the Bermuda 
archipelago. Located on the very edge of the outer reef where breakers 
are always running, save in perfectly calm weather, the conditions 
seem to be especially favorable for many of the marine organisms. 
Various small and brilliantly colored fishes dart about in the pools and 
escape into the crevices of the rock. The great black Sea-Urchin ^Dia- 
dema setosumQ, bristling with slender spines, is firmly ensconced in niches 
in the rocky floor . . ._ Crabs, both great and small, are every- 
where, and the little Hermits, with their molluscan shelters of various 
kinds and sizes, make a grotesque appearance as they scuttle away to 
cover." — Prof. E. L. Mark. 

"Of the larger jelly-fishes frequenting the neighborhood of the 
reef, we found the pink Aurelia and the Rhizostome especially numerous. 
. . . The more tranquil pools are in places stocked with fish. Members 
of the tribe of Lahroids, such as the golden "Spanish Lady," the "Blue 
fish" and the "Hind," were especially conspicuous. We observed, 
however, none of the lovely Angel-fishes nor any of the Parrot-fishes 
proper, which apparently find a more congenial home in the inner 
waters of the Archipelago." — Prof. Angela Heilprin. 

On some of the early French charts the North Rocks are 
called "Les Petites Bermudas." Their special historical interest 
lies in the fact that it was in close proximity to them that the 
Bonaventiira, with Henry May on board, was wrecked in 1593 
(p. xx). Accordingly, these rocks were represented, with the 
wrecked vessel, on the reverse of the original seal of the Ber- 
muda Company, thus constituting the earliest existing pictorial 
record of them, affording important data for estimating the 
amount of erosion suffered during the ensuing three centuries. 



INDEX 



ERRATA. 
Page 69, line 4, for "Stagg's" read "Stag." 

Page xxxiv, line 17, for (p. ) read (p. 137). 
line 29, for (p. ) read (p. xv). 

Page 91, for lines 7, 8, 9, read "Walsingham, Cockswain 
of the Sea Venture. The house was built aibout 1670 by 
Samuel Trott, kinsman of the Earl of Warwick, and son of 
Perient Trott, then "Husband" or manager of the Bermuda 
Company. Samuel came to Bermuda with his brothers, 
Perient and Nichols, to safeguard the interests of the Earl, 
whose holdings included the four shares in Hamilton Tribe 
on which Walsingham Houe was built." 

Page 118, line i, for "Gurnett" read "Gurnet." 



INDEX 



The names of artists, architects, authors quoted, etc., are 
entered here in italics. 

Balleniine, James, & 

Son, 71. 89, 9S 
Bank notes, Bermuda, 

Hi 
Banks, 35 
Barber shops, 9 
Barker's Hill, 76 
Barrack Hill, 45, 109 
Barracks, Old, 116 
Barracks, St. George's, 

109 
Bartlett's Islands, 128 
Bassett, Sally, xxix, 93 
Bassett's Cave, 128 
Baths, Hotel, 8 
Bathing, s, 6, 7, 25-26 

112, 123, 124 
Bay House, 66 
Beaches, 25-26 
Beamish, Lieut., 130 
Beek Hill, 122 
"Belle Vue," 119 
Bells, Historic, 76, 81, 

96 
Belmont (hotel), 7 
— farm, 9 
Bennett, James Gordon, 

28, 124 
Bermiuda Agricultural 

Station, 94 
Bermuda and Garrison 

Hunt Club, 25, 82 
Bermuda and West At- 
lantic Aviation Co., 
IS, 138 
Bermuda Athletic As- 
soc, 22, 28, 69 
Bermuda Boat and 

Canoe Club, 27, 66 
Bermuda Cathedral, 61- 

63 
Bermuda Church So- 
ciety, 32 
"Bermuda Colonist," 34 
Bermuda Company, 

xxiv 
— ■ seal, 142 
Bermuda Development 

Co., 25, 98 
Bermuda Golf Club, 25 
Bermuda Golf Links, 
67 



Abbotsford, 93 
Ackermann Hill, 122 
Admiral's Cave, 83 
Admiral's residence, 

67, 107 
Admiral's Tomb, 108 
Admiralty House, 46, 

67-68 
— • — Permit for, 36 
Aeolian Hills, 124 
Aerated waters, 10 
Aerial tours, 15, 36 
African M. E. Church, 

64 
Apar's Is., 47, 74 
Agar's Is. Biological 

Station, 55 
Agassis, Alexander 
(quoted), xix, 126, 
141 
Agricultural Assoc, 65 
Agricultural develop- 
ment, xxxiii 
Agricultural experi- 
ments, 96 
Agricultural Station, 94 
Agriculture, xlvi-xlviii 
Agriculture, Board of, 

xlvi 
Airship tours, 15, 36 
A-la-carte meals, 9 
Albert, Fort, no 
Albert Victor, Prince, 

xxxiv, 134 
Alfred, Prince, xxxiv, 

53, 68 
Alfred, Prince, Lodge, 

131 
Allen, C. M., 82 
Allen, W. H. (resi- 
dence), 66 
Allenhurst (hotel), 6, 

S3 
"Amanda," Poems to 

109 
Ambergris, xxii-xxiii, 

117 
Amen Corner, 120 
American Civil War, 
xxxiii, 102 



American Consular 
Agency 103 

American Express 
Checks, li 

American Express Co., 
18 

American House (ho- 
tel), 6, 57 

stables, 11 

American Revolution, 
XXX, 45, 102, 103, 
109, 129 

Amusements, 20 

Anchorages, 114 

Apothecaries' Hall, 51 

Aquariums 

— • Agar's Is., 74 

— Blue Hole, 84 
— ■ Coney Is., 85 

— Devil's Hole, 86 
Arcade (boarding 

house), 6 
Arch, Natural, 98 
Area, xi, xii 
Argus Bank, xi, xiv 
Argyle (boarding 

house), 6, 64 
Aristocracy, Local, liii 
Arrival, 43 
Arrowroot, xlvii, 119 
Artesian wells, bcv, xlv 
Artists, Neighborhood 

preferred by, 5 
Assembly, xliii 
Athletics, 22 
Atlantic Phoenix 

Lodge, 59 
Attack,, Attemipted, xxiv 
Automobile Association 

of Bermuda, 14 
Automobiles, 3, 13-14 
Aviation, 15, 36 
Avocado Lodge, 78 
Avro Seaplanes, 15 

B 

Bacon, J., 105 
Baggage, 3, 4 
Bailey's Bay, 46, 82, 89 
Bailey's Bay church, 33 



146 

Bermudai Gun Club, 26 
Bermuda High School 

for Girls, 69 
Bermuda Mineral 

Water Factory, 69 
Bermuda Nat. Hist. 

Soc, 74 
Bermuda products, 29 
Bermuda Transporta- 

tian Co., Ltd., 14. Si 
Bermuda War Veter- 
ans' Assoc, Rifle 

Club, 26 
Bermudez, Juan de, xix 
Bermudians, Character- 
istics of. Hi 
Berry Hill Road, 93 
Beverly (boarding 

house), 7, 123 
Bibliography, 38 
Bicycles, 3, 12-13 
Billiards, 22 
Birds, xxxv-xxxviii 
Bishop, 31 
Bishop's Lodge, 63 
Black Peter, 69 
Block House (boarding 

house), 8 
Bluck, Wm., 65 
Blue Hole, 123 
Board of Agriculture, 

xlvi 
Board of Education, 

xlvi 
Board of Health, xlv 
Boarding houses, 4-8 
Boat racing, 27 
Boaz Is.j 47, 130, 132 
Boer prisoners, xxxiv, 

137, 138 
"Boilers," 113, 125 
Boiling Hole Grotto, 

130 
"Bonaventura" (ship), 

142 
Books on Bermuda, 38 
Borings, Deep, xiv 
Botany, xxxix-xlii 
Brassey, Lady (quoted), 

104 
Bray ton Lodge, 6 
Bridge House, 129 
Bridge, Swing, loi 
Brightside (boarding 

house), 7, 77 
Bristol, Prof. Chas. L. 

(quoted), 139 
Brown, Louis F., 124 



INDEX 

Browne, Gov. William, 

xxxii, 105 
Bruere, Gov. George 

James, xxxii 
Brunswick House, 6, 64 
Buildings Bay, xxi, 45, 

III 
Bulbs, xlvii 
Bull, Chas. Livingston 

(quoted), 140 
Buoys, 44 

Burch Castle (board- 
ing house), 8 
Buried cottage, 125 
Buried treasure, 117, 

135 
Burnaby, Sir William, 

SO, 65 
Burt Is., 137 
Bus lines, lo-ii 
Butler, Gov. Nathaniel, 

xxvi, xxvii, 104, 116- 

117, 129 
— (quoted), 97, no 
Butterflies, xxxv 
By the Sea (road 

house), 10 



Cable service, 20 
Cabilecto (negro), 69 
Cahow (bird), 90, 117 
Cahow Lake, 90 
Caisey's Hill, 122 
Calabash products, 29 
Calabash Tree, 27, 92 
Caledonia Park, no 
Camber, 135 
Cambrae Hall, 120 
Camden, 93 
Camelo, Theodoro Fer- 

dinando, xx, 96 
Camm & Co., 95 
Campbell, Gov. Wil- 
liam, 105 
C&mping, 137 
Canada Villa (boarding 

house), 6 
Catherine, Fort, no 
Carberry Hill, 120 
Carr, Robert, 129 
Carriages, 11 
Castle Grotto Cave, 84, 

92 
Castle-Harbour, 45, 

114-118 
Castle Is., 99, IIS 
Castle Point, 99 



Cataract Hill, 124 
Cathedral, 32 
Cathedral Cave, 83 
Cathedi-al Rocks, 129- 

130 
Cavendish, 78 
Causeway, 100 
Causeway Cottage, 100 
Caves 

— ■ Admiral's Cave, 83 
— ^Bailey's Bay, 82 

— Bassett's Cave, 128 

— Castle Grotto Cave, 
84, 92 

— • Cathedral Cave, 83 

— Chalk Cave, 87 
— • Cooper's Hole, 88 
— • Crystal Cave, 90 

— Devil's Hole, 87 

— Ireland Is., 136 

— Island Cave, 83 

— Jeffrey's Hole, 97 

— Joyce's Dock Caves, 
83 

— Leamington Cave, 88 

— Prospero's Cave, xvi, 
83, 84 

— Queen's White Hall, 
99 

— < St. David's Is., 1x2 

— submarine cavern, 

— sunken cavern, xvii 

— Tucker's Is. Cavern, 
137 

— ' Walsingham Caves, 

92 
— • Witch's Cave, 92 
— • Wonderland Cave, 

90 
Cedar Ave., 70 
Cedar tree, 80 
Cedarhurst (hotel), 6 
Cemetery, Convict, 132 
Cemetery, Naval, 134 
Centenary Chapel, 95 
Central parishes, 75-99 
"Cerberus" (frigate), 

114 
Chalk Cave, 87 
"Challenger," Rept. 

(quoted), 142 
"Challenger'' (ship), 

xiv 
Challenger Bank, xi, 

xiv 
Chamiberlain Bay, 131 
Chapel-at-Ease, 112 
Charles' Fort, 115 



Chequer Board, Nat- 
ural, 97 
Cherrystone Hill, loi 
Chief Justice, xliv 
Christ Church, 32, 79, 

121 
Christian Science So-- 

■ciety, 33 
Church, Earliest, xxiv 
Church of St. Ann, 126 
Church of St. George, 

109 
Church of St. John, 71 
Church of St. Paul, 64 
Church St., 61-63 
Churches, 31-33 
Cinemas, 21-22 
Circulating library, 33 
City Hall, 49, 53 
Civil War, American, 

xxxiii, 102 
Clarence Barracks, 133 
Clarence Hill, 67 
Clayton &r Bell, 71 
Clemens, Samuel L^, 
132, 166, 86 

— (quoted), liv, 93 
"Cleopatra" (frigate), 

^ 45 

Clergy, 31 
Climate, xlviii-I 

— Pliocene, xvi 
Clock, Sessions House, 

60 
Clubs, 28-29 
Coaching, 23 
Cobbler's Islands, 69 
Cockburn, Gov. Sir 

James, 34, 49, -jz, 103 
Coteikburn's Cut, 133 
Cockroaches, liv 
Cod-fishing, xlvii 
Code of Signals, 43-44 
Coins, li-lii 
Colonial Fort, 124 
— r Cluib, 29 

— Hotel, 6, 57 
— -Jail, 103 

— Opera House, 21, 64 
Commerce, xlvi 
Commissioner's House, 

Coney ' Is., 46, 84 
Consulate, U. S., 51, 

Convict burial-ground, 

Convict system, 132 
Cook, Thomas, & Son, 



INDEX 

Cooper's Hole, 88 

Cooper's Is., 117-118 

Coral reefs, i;j9 

Corals, xxxviii — xxxix 

Corner House (board- 
ing house), 6 

Cosy Tea Room (board- 
ing house), 8, 9 

Cottage Hospital, 21, 
35, 78, 94 

Cotter, Richard (quot- 
ed), 114 

Country Club, 98 

Courts, xliv 

Cox & Buckner, 120 

Crab, Tree-climbing, 94 

Crashaw, William, xxiii 

Crawl Hill, 82 

Cricket, 7, 23 

Crops, xlvii 

Cross Is,, 135 

Crow Lane, 49 

Crow Lane Gun Posi- 
tion, 124 

Crumb-brush Is., 127 

Crystal Cave, 90 

Cumberland Lane, 106 

Cunningham, Fort, 113 

Cupid's Oven, 112 

Currency, 1, 1 1 _ 

Customs, xliv, Hi, 3 

Customs House, 103 

Customs House) Ware- 
house, 49 

Cut, The, no 
18 



Dale, Richard Suther- 
land, 105 

Dancing, 9 

Daniel's Head, 20, 131 

Darrell, Hon. John 
Harvey, 78 

Darrell, John S., 89 

Darrell's Is., 137 

Darrell's Wharf, ferry 
to, 14 

Date of formation, xv 

Davies, Sir Colin Rees, 
26 

Deck chairs, 17 

Declaratioin of citizen- 
ship, 17 

Deep borings, xiv 

Deep-sea soundings, xiv 

"Deliverance" (ship), 
xxi, 45 



Dellwood, 70 
Dentists, 35 
Departments of Goy- 

emment, xliv-xlvi 
Detention camps, 137 
Devil's Hole, 86 
Devonshire Church, 79 
Devonshire College 

Lands, 80 
Devonshire Dock, 76 
Devonshire Marsh, 

xxxviii, 80 
Devonshire Tribe, xiii 
Dill, Frances Russell, 

93 
Dill, Lucius, 93 
Dinghy Club, 28, 58 
Dinghy races, 27 
Direct West India 

Cable Co., Ltd., 20 
Discovery of Bermuda, 

xix 
Distribution of time, 

36 
Dock, Floating, 135 
Dockyard, 133, 135 
Doctors, 35 
Dogs, 18 
Dorr, Mrs. J. C. R. 

(quoted), 59, 99, 115 
Drive, Picturesque, 97 
Ducking Stool, 75 
Dundonald, Vice-Ad- 

miral Thomas, Lord, 

50, 67, 132 
"Dusky Shearwater," 
_ii8 
Duties, xliv, 3 



Eagle's Nest (hotel), 6, 

72 
Eames, Mrs. (quoted), 

112 
Eastbourne Cottage, 7 
Ebenezer Church, 33 
Education, Board of, 

xlvi 
Edward VII, King, 53 
Edward VII Memorial 

Hospital, 35, 93 
Egg-bird, loi 
Elba Beacji, 7, 26, 124 

'bus line, 12 

Elbow Bay, 124 
Electors, xliii 
Elevation, xii 



Elliott, Gov. Charles, 

50 
Elliott, Edward, 63 
Emmet, Thomas Addis, 

129 
"Endymion" (ship), 

los 
Entering Bermuda, 43- 

47 
Entertainments, 20-22 
Evans' Pond, 128. 
Excursions in Pem- 
broke, 65-74 
Executive Council, xlii, 

xliv 
Express service, 4, 10, 

18 



Fairview (boarding 

house), 6, 8 
Fairyland, 70 
Falkirk Villa (boarding 

house), 6 
Farm, Model, 96 
Fauna, xvii, xxiv 
Feild, Bishop, 71, 112 
Ferry lines, 14-15 

— to Coney Is., 100 

— to Ireland Is., and 
Somerset, 14 

— to Salt Kettle and 
JDarrell's Wharf, 14 

Ferry Reach, The, 100 
Fever Hosipital, 132 
Fiction featuring Ber- 
muda, 41 
Fiddlewood tree, 87 
Fish, 9, 39, 86 
Fish Pond, 130 
Fishing, 23-24 
Flags, Signal, 43 
Platts Bridgei, 81 
Flatts Harbour, 77 
Flatts Inlet, 46 
Flatts Village, 46, 77 
— f bus service, 1 1 

— hotels, 7 
Flies, liv 

Floating dock, 135 
Flowers, xl, xvii 
Flying boat, 15 
Foliage, 46 

"Foot of the Lane," 92 
Football, 24-25 
Foresters' Hall, 134 
Formation, Date of, xv, 



INDEX 

Fort Albert, 45, no 
— Catherine, 45, 102, 

no 
— , Charles', 115 
— -Cunningham, 113 
— , Gates', no 
— , Old Devonshire, 95 

— Peniston's, 102 

— protecting Dock- 
yard, 133 

— Ruins of, xxiv, 94, 
114, 115, 124, 129 

— i, St. David's, 112 
— ' Scaur Hill, 130 
— , Smith's, 113 
— •Southampton, 115, 

116-117 
— ; Warwick's, 102 
— ' Victoria, 45, no 
Franchise, xliii 
Frank's Bay, 128 
Fra^ctati (hotel), 7, 46, 

77 

— stables, 1 1 

Freight transport. Need 

for, 14 
Frenecm, Philip, 109 
Front St., 51-53 
(Fruits, xli, xlviii 
Furness Bermuda line, 

16 
Furness- Withy Co., 16 
Furnished rooms, 8 



Gallows Is., 76 
Gallows Hill, 123 
Gallwey, Gov. T. L. J., 

60 
Games, 22 

Garden, The Public, 94 
Gardens, Public, 108 
Garrison Cemetery, no 
Garrison Churchy Pros- 
pect, 32, 78 
Garrison Church, St. 

George's, 32, no 
Garrison Golf Club, 25 
Garrison hospitals, 35 
Garrison Golf Links, 76 
Garrison Observatory, 

78 
Garrison Parade 

Ground, 78 
Garrison Theatre., 22, 
^78. 

Garrison troops, 21 
"Garza, La" (ship), xix 



Gates, Sir Thomas, xxi, 

45, no, in, 132 
Gates' Fort, no 
Geologic strata, 73 
Geologists, Neighbor- 
hoods, interesting to, 

5, 76, 86, 122, 125, 

126, 141 
Geology, xi, xiv-xix 
— • Books on, 40 
George, Prince, xxxiv, 
^ ^34 
George V, King xxxiv, 

68, 129 
Gibbet Is., 76 
Gibbons Bay, 76 
Gibb's Hill, 122 
Gibb's Hill Lighthouse, 

126-127 

< — bus line to, 1 1 

Ginger beer. Colorless, 

10 
Glacial period, xvi 
Glass House, 68 
Glen Cove, 123 
Glen Duror, 27 
Globe Hotel, 103 
Gluckauf, no 
Godet, T. L. (quoted), 

24 
Godet Is., 138 
Golf, 7, 25, 98 
Goodrich, Capt. 

Bridger, xxxii 
Goody Shop, 9, 10 
Gordon, Alexander, 

127 
Government, xliii-xlvi 
— , Early, xxv 
— 'formalities, 17 
— > Hill, 103, 109 
— House, z^y 46, 72-74 
Governor, Residence 

of, 72 
Governors, "Portraits 

of, 56, 
Grace Church, 33, 75 
Grace Is., 137 
Grasmere-by-the-Sea 

(hotel), 6 
— • farm, 9 
Grassy Bay, 47> i35 
Grave of "Nea," 106 
Gravelly Beach, 87 
Great Sound, 136 
Green Shutters (tav- 
ern), 52 
Grill rooms, 9 



Grove, Sir George, 79, 

127 
Gun-platform, Old, 116 
Gunpowder, Capture 

of, 45, 102, 103, 109, 

129 
Gurnet Head, 115 
Gurnet Rock, 118 

H 

Hairdresser, 9 

Halifax and Bermudas 
Cable Co., Ltd., 20 

Hallett, W. Cardy, 122 

Hamilton, Lord Fred- 
eric (quoted), liii 

Hamilton, Gov. Henry, 
xxxii 

Hamilton (City), 49-65 

— bus lines, 11, 12 

— Cricket Club, 70 

— Dinghy Club, 27 

— 'Hotel, s, 9, II, 16, 

22, 57, 66 
— ■ Hotels in, 5-6 
— ■ Parish Lyceum, 90 

— places of entertain- 
ment, 21 

— Tea rooms in, 9 
— 'Topography, 50 
— • Tribe, xiii 
Happy Valley, 78 

Tennis Club, 27 

Harbour View (board- 
ing house), 7, 123 

Harmony Hall (board- 
ing house), 7, 124 

Harrington House, 88 

Harrington Sound, 46, 
85-90 

Harrington Yacht 
Club, 27 

Harris Bay, 95 

Hastings, General Rus- 
sell, 70 

Hay, William, 62 

Hay & Henderson, 61, 
72, 109 

Hayward, W. B. (quot- 
ed), 24, 26, 28, III. 
138, 139 

Health Dept, xlv 

Heilprin, Prof. Angela 
(quoted), 86, 141, 
142 



INDEX 

Hems, Harry, 120 
Hems, Harry, & Sons, 

62 
Hermitage, 95 
Heyl, James Bell, 51 
Higgs Is., 45 
Hill, George W., 108 
Hillcrest (boarding 

house), 7, 8, 106 
Hillside (boarding 

house), 6 
Hinson, Dr. Henry J., 

95, 119, 130 
Hinson Bay, 76 
Hinson Islands, 15, 

138 
History of Bermuda, 

xix-xxxiv 

Books on, 38 

Hodgson, Gov., 33 
"Hog money," lii 
Hogfish Beacon, 69 
Holly Hill, 77 
Holy Trinity, 32, 88 
Horse racing, 25 
Hospital, Fever, 132 
— , Memorial, 35, 93 
— , Military, 45 
— , Station, 132 
Hospitals, 35 
Hotel Belmont, 120-121 
— Frascati, 7, 46, 77 
— ' Inverurie, 7, 11 , 

27, 51, 120, 123 
Hotels, 4-8 

For individual hotels 

see their names 
— ■ Dining rooms, 9 
— , Transportion to, 4 
House of Assembly, 

xliii 
Howells, William Dean 

(quoted), 64, 91 
Hughes, Lewis, xxvi 
Humidity, xlix 
Hungry Bay, xxxvii, 

94 
Hurdman, R., 71 
Hutment Barracks, 
I ro 



Ice cream and soda, 10 
Imperial (hotel), 6 



149 

Imperial Saluting 

Battery, 75 
Income tax, 17 
Industries, xlvi-xlviii 
Inglenook, 78 
Inglewood, 93, 119 
Inglis, Bishop, 130 
Insects, XXXV, liv 
Inter-island transpor- 
tation, 10-15 
International yacht 

raices, 28 
Inverurie (hotel), 7, 

II, 27, 51, 120, 123 
Ireland, Escape to, 

xxvi 
Ireland Is., 47, 132, 
133 

Chapel, 33 

Cricket Assoc, 

22 

, Ferry to, 14 

Irving, Washington, 

xxii 
Island Cave, 83 
Islands, Number of, xii 
Isle of White, 26 
Isle of White (board- 
ing house), 7 
Itinerary, Suggested, 
36 



Jail, 59 
Jail, Old, 103 
James I, King, xxiv 
James, William T., 119 
Jamestown, Va., xxi 
Sardine & Sons, 63 
Jeffrey's Hole, 97 
Jenkins Boiler, 113 
— f — • ChanneH, 114 
Jew's Bay, 122 
Jones, Btirne, 89 
Jones, J. Matthew 
(quoted), 82, 95, 
1X2, 115, 118, 125, 
133, 136 
Jones, Rt. Rev. Llew- 
ellyn, 31 
Jourdain, Sil., xxii 
— • — '(quoted),, loi 
Joyce's Dock Caves, 83 
Jubilee clock tower,^ 60 
Judiciary, xliv 



ISO 



Kellerman, Annette, 

66, 91, 92 
Kenwood (hotel), 6, 

22, 58 
Key, Vice-Admiral Sir 

Cooper, 68 
Khyber Pass, 122 
King Edward vii Me 

morial Hospital, 35, 

93 
King George III (por 

trait), 60 
King's Castle, 99, 116 
Kingston House, 8 
Kipling, Rudyard, xxi 
Kitchener grave, 78 
Knapton Hill Road, 

96 



Laffan, Gov. Robert, 
xxxiii, so 

— grave, 72 

Lakes, xiii 

Lane Hill, 78 

Langton, Mt,, 72-74 

Lap Stone, 69 

Latitude and longi- 
tude, xi 

Lawrence, Sir Thomas, 
60 

Leamington Cave, 88 

Lefroy, Gov., 107, 108 

"Legatio Babylonica" 
(book), XX 

Legislative Council, 
xlii 

Length, xi 

Libraries, xxxiii, 33, 

Lighthouse, Gibb's 
Hill, 126-127 

Lighthouse, St. Da- 
vid's, 43, 112 

Lily bulbs, xlvii 

Limestone, xviii, 66, 87 

Lipton, Sir Thomas, 28 

Livery stables, 11 

Lloyd, Susette Harriet 
(quoted), 65 

Lodge St. George No. 
200, 103 

London Company, 
xxiv, xxix 

Longl Bird] Is.. 100 



INDEX 

Lon<* House, 65 
Long Is., 138 
Long Point, 69 
Longford Road, 122 
Lorraine (boarding 

house), 7 
Lough, Edward Eng- 
lish, 122 
Lough, Archdeaqon 

John P. B. L., monu 

ment, 120 
Lough Memorial Hall 

22, 120 
Louise, Princess, 

xxxiv, 93 
Loyalty Lodge, 134 
Loyalty to Crown, lii 
Luggage, 3-4, 17-18 
Lunatic Asylum, 95 
Lunn's Well, iii 
Lusher Hill, 122 
Lyceum, 22 
Lyons, Gov. Thomas 

C, 73 



M 

MacDonald, C. B,, 98 
McGall's Hill, 96 
Magnetic variations, 

xiv 
Mail flag, 44 
Mails, 18-20 
Manchester Papers, 

xxvi 
Mangrove Creek, 70 
— Lake, 97 
— • swamp, 94 
Manicurist, 9 
Marine gardens, 139 
Marjorie Cottage, 6 
Market Square, St. 

George's, 102-103 
Marks, Prof. E. L. 

(quoted), 94, 142 
Married Quarters, no 
Marshall Is., 138 
Martello Tower, 45 
Martyr, Peter, xx 
Masonic Hall, 59, 131, 

134 
Master's Drug Store, 

10 
May, Henry, xx, 142 
Mechanics Hall, 2 1 , 

57 
Medical examination, 3 



Members of Assembly, 

xliii 
Memorial Hospital, 3'-, 

93 
Methodist Church, 32 
Meyer, Capt. William 

E., no 
"Mid-Ocean," 34 
Middle Road 

— from Gibb's Hill to 
Somerset Ferry, 127 

— ' from Hamilton to 
Flatts Village, 77 

— from Hamilton to 
Gibb's Hill, 119 

Middleton Hill, 124 
Midshipman's grave, 

68 
Milestone, 130 
Military Cemetery, 78 
— 'Hospital, 45, 103, 

no 

— Road, 97 

Milne, Rear Admiral 

Sir David, 83 
Minton, Hollins & 

Co., 71 
Mitchel, John, 132 
Model farm, 96 
Money, 1 

Money orders, 19 
Montrose, 93 
Monument to Boer 

prisoners, 138 
Monument to Gov. 

Reid, 53 
Moore, Gov. Richard, 
xxiii, xxiv, loi, 104, 
no, 113, ns, 116 
Moore, Tom, xxii, 16, 

106, 107 
— ■ (Quoted), 92, 106, 

107 
Moore's Calabash Tree, 

92 
Moore's House, 91 
Morgan's! Is., 137 
Motion Picture House, 

57 
Motion pictures, 21-22 
Motor boat racing, 28 
Motor Car Act, 13 
Motorcycles, 3 
Mount Hill. 112 
Mcnunt Langton, 72-74 
Mount Royal (board- 
ing' house),, 7 
Mt. St. Agnes, xiv, 70 



INDEX 



151 



Mount Wyndham, 46, 

89 
Mt. Zion Chapel, 128 
Mountain Cabbage 

Palms, 93 
Moving pictures, 21- 

22, 125 
Mullet Bay, loi 
Murray's anchorage, 3, 

45 
Museum of Natural 

History, 54-56 
Musson, A. J., 90 

N 

Narrows, 43 
Native products, 29 
Natural Arch, 98 
Natural Bridge, 117 
Natural Chequer 

Board, 97 
Natural History, xxxiv- 

xlii 

, Books on, 40 

— • — 'Museum, 54-56 
Natural resources, xlvi 
Naturalists, Haunts of, 

xxxvii, "JT, 85, 94. 

112, 117, 118, 125, 

131, 138, 139, 142 
Naval Cemetery, 134 
— ' hospital, 35 
— tanks, 45 ; 109 
Navy wells, 76 
"Nea" grave, 106 
"Nea's" home, 106 
Negroes, xliii, liii-liv 
"Neptune's Daughter," 

91 
Neptune's Grotto, 86 
Netherlands (boarding 

house), 7 
New Windsor (hotel), 

6, 9, 57 
Newdegate, Gov., 65, 

Newman, William Ed- 
ward, 96 

Newport, Christopher, 
xxi 

Newspapers, 33 

Newstead Inn, 7 

Newton, Margaret 
(quoted), 70 

Nonsuch Is., 117 

North Rocks, xi, 43, 
141 



North Shore Road, 

— from Flatts Village 
Cross ways toi the 
Blue Hole, 81 

— from Hamilton to 
Flatts Village, 75 

— from Hamilton to 
^Riddle's Bay, 123 

North Village, 46, 75 
Norwood, 66 
Norwood, Richard, xiii, 

XXV 

Novels featuring Ber- 
muda, 41 



Oasis, The (sodas), 10 
O'cean Bright (board- 
ing house), 26, 69 
Odes to Nea, 106 
Old Church Rocks, 

129-130 
Old Devonshire 

Church, 79 
Old Devonshire Fort, 

95 
Old Ferry Road, 82 
Old Jail, 103 
Old State House, 103 
Old Town, no 
Olive mil, 66 
Omnibuses, lo-ii 
Onions, xlvii 
Opera House, 64 
Orange Grove Hooise, 

81 
Ord, Captain, xxxi 
Organ Chamber, 83 
Ornithologists, Haunts 

of, 117, 118 
Outer reefs, 139 
"Overpluis," xxv, xxvi, 

128 
Oviedo, Gonzales, xix 



Paget hotels and 
boarding houses, 7 

Paget Is., 45, 113 

Paget Tribe, xiii 

Paine, Albert Bigelow 
(quoted), 66 

Palmetto, xli 

Palmetto Grove, 7, 77 

Palmetto products, 29 

Parcels post, 20 



Parishes, xiii, xxiv, 

xxv, 31 
Park, 98 
Par-la-ViUe, 54 
Parliament, xliii 
Passport unnecessary, 

^7 
"Patience" (ship), xxi 
Patton, Dr. Francis L., 

120, 121 
Paynter's Hill, 87 
Paynter's Vale, 87 
Peak (The), 46, 81 
Peat, xvi 
Pemibroke, E^cui*sions 

in, 65-74 

— Hall, 93 

— ■ Hotels and boarding 

houses, 6 
— < Marsh, xxxviii 

— Parish (Dliurch, 71 
— -Tribe, xiii 
Peniston, Edward, 80, 

95 
Peniston's Fort, 102 
Peniston's Is., 113 
Pennants, 44 
Perinchief's Bay, 122 
Periodicals, 33 
Permits, Application 

for, 36 
Perot, William Ben- 
nett, 54, 71 
Petition against autos, 

13 
Philip II, King, xx 
Phoeaiix Drug Store, 9, 

10 
Physical contour, xii 
Physical formation, 

xiv 
Physicians, 34, 35 
Pickford & Black 

(steamship service), 

16 
Pilchard Bay, 128 
Pitt's Bay, 66 
Pitts Bay Road, 65 
Pliocene Bermuda, xv- 

xviii 
Planning a stay, 35-38 
Plants, xxxix-xlii 
"Plough" (ship), xxiii 
Poetry on Bermuda, 42 
Point Finger Road, 93 
Point Pleasant (hotel;, 

6, 47. 65 
Point Shares, 47 
Political divisions, xiii 



152 

Pomander Walk, 123 

Ponds, xiii 

Popple, Gov. Allured, 

104 
Port Royal Chapel, 33 
Porters, 4 
Ports Is., 137 
Post Office (Hamilton), 

59 
Postal information, 18, 

19 
Potatoes, xlvii 

102, 109, 129 
Powder raid, xxxi, 
Prady, 130 
Prtesibyterian' Church, 

32 

— Hall, 21 

— history, 121 
"President," Frigate, 

34, los 
Prevailing Winds, xlix 
Priqes, Average, 9, 11, 

13 
Prince of Wales, 

xxxiv, 68, 108 
Princess (hotel), 6, 9, 

II, 22, 47, 6s 
Prisoners 

— , American Revolu- 
tion, 103 
— , Boer War, 137, 138 
— , Convict, 132 
— , Indian, liv 
— !, John Stephenson, 

103 
Products, xlvii 
Prospect Gymnasium, 

22 
Prosnect Military 

Camp, 78 
Prospero's Cave, xvi, 

83, 84 
P'roto-Bermuda, xviii- 

xix 
Public Buildings, 52-53 
Public Garden, 94 
Public Gardens, xlvi, 

108 
Public Health Dept., 

xlv 
Public Library, xxxiii, 

33, 56 
Puiblic omnibuses, 10- 

II 
Public Works Dept., 

xlvi 
Pulpit Rock, 135 
Punishments, Early, 

xxviii 



INDEX 



Quarantine, xlv, 3, 

"7, 137 
Quashi's Pole, 76 
Queen St., 53-58 
Queen's White Hall, 99 



Race course, 82 
Racing, Boat, 28 

— Horse, 25 
Radio service, 20 
Rain water, xlv 
Rainfall, 1 

Rats, Plague of, xxv 
Reading rooms, 33 
Real estate develop- 
ment, 98 
ReceivciT (^neral, xliv 
Red Hole, 123 
Reefs, Outer, 139 
— ', Serpuline, 126 
Regimental history, no 
Registrar General's 

Dept., xlvi 
Reid, Thomas S., 93 
Reid, Gov. William, 
xxxiii, xlvii, 50 

— Model Farm, 96 
— ■ monument, 53 
Reid, Saville G. (quot- 
ed), xxxv, xxxvi 

Reid Hall (furnished 

rooms), 8 
Reid St., 58-61 
Restaurants, 9 
Revenue Dept., xliv 
Rhind, John, 62 
Richier, Isaac, xxix 
Richmond Cricket 

Grounds,^ 69 
Ridkets Is., 137 
Riddell's Bay Golf and 

Countrv Club, 25 
Riddell's Bay Golf 

and Country Club, 

25 
Riddle's Bay Golf 

Course, 122 
Rifle Ranges, 125 
Ring, Waller's, 113 
'Rivers, Absence of, 

xii 
Road houses, 9-10 
Roads, 12 
Robertson's Drug 

Store, 10 



Robinson, Gov. Robert, 

xxix 
Rocks, Cathedral, 129- 

130 
— constitution, xvii 
Rockville (boarding 

house), 6 
Rolfe, John, xxi 
Roman Catholic 

Church, 32 
Rooms, furnished, 8 
Rose Hill, 103, 106 
Rosebank, 65 
Royal Barracks, 103 
Royal Bermuda Yacht 

Club, 27, 28, 52 
Royal Engineers' Offi- 
cers, no 
"Royal Gazette," 34, 

35 
Royal Mail Steam 

Packet line, 1 7 
Royal Naval Club, 135 

Cricket Field, 131 

'Hospital, 134 

Rubber tree,, 54 
"Ruby" (sloop), 72 
Rule of the Road, 12 



Sailor's Home, 134 
St. Andrew's, 32 
St. Andrew's Presby- 
terian Church, 63 
St. Ann's, 32, 126 
St. Catherine Pt., 45 
St. Catherine's Fort, 

102 
St. David's Chaipel, 32 
— '.Fort, 112 
— ■ Head, 43 

— Is., 31, 45, III 

— Lighthouse, 43, 112 

— Post Office, 112 
St. Edwiard's R. C. 

Church, 33, 64 
St. George, Church of, 

33, 109 
St. George Historical 

SoiC^, 29, 33 
St. George Hotel, 107 
St. George's, loi-iii 

— Barracks, 109 

— bus lines, 11 
— -history, loi 

— hotels and boarding 
houses, 7, 8 

— ■• Island, 45 



— Parish, xiii 

— tea rooms, 9 

— Yacht Club, 27 

St. James, Sandys, 32, 

130 
St. John, Pembroke, 

Church of, 32, 71 
St. John's Hill House, 

67 
St. John's Road, 70 
St. Mark's Church, 32, 

95 
St. Mary's, Warwick, 

32, 122 
St. Paul's (African 

M. E. church), 33 
St. Paul's, Paget, 32, 

119 
St. Peter's Church, 

xxiv, xxvii, 32, 104 
Salt House, 46, 85 
Salt Kettle. 123 
— , Ferry to, 14 
Salt trade, xxix-xxx, 

xlvi 
Saltus Grammar 

School, 70 
Sand drifts, xvi, tj, 

82, 98, loi, 125 
Sandys Parish, 128 
Sandys Tube, xiv 
Scaury The, 129 
Scaur! Lodge, 8, 10, 

129 
Schools, xlvi 
Scott, John Oldrid, 162 
Sea Gardens, xi, 16, 

139 
"Sea Venture," xxi, 

3i» III, "5 
Sea Venture Flatts, 

xxi, 44 
Seaward (boarding 

house), 7, 82 
Serpentine Road, 69 
Serpuline reefs, 126 
Sessions House, 60 
Shakespeare, Win., xxii 
Sharks, 26 
Shark's Hole, 87 
Shelly Bay, 82 
— • — race course, 25, 

82 
Shipwrecks, xx, iii, 

114, 128 
Shooting, 26-27 
Shops, 29-31 
Shore dinners, 9, 10 



INDEX 

Shore Hills (hotel), 7, 

9, lOI 
Sight-geeing itinerary, 

36 
Signal code, 43-44 
Signal stations, 43 
Sinky Bay, 125 
Skeleton, 109 
Slavery, Abolition of, 

xxxii 
Small, H. B. (quoted), 

87, 1 01 
Smith, Mrs. Eliz., 49 
Smith, Sir Thomas, 

113 
Smith's Fort, 113 
Smith's Is., 45, loi, 

113 
Smith's Tribe, xiii 
Soda water, 10 
Someirs, Ajdmiral _ Sir 

George, xxi, xxii, 

44, 62, loi, 107-8, 

no 
Somer:^ Gardens, 107 

— Hill, 82 

— • Inn, 8, 103 
Somerset Bridge, 128, 

129 
— 'bus lines, 10 

— Chapel, 33 
— , Earl of, 129 
— , Ferry to, 14 

— hotels and boarding 
. houses, 8 

— Is., 47, 129 

— • Methodist Church, 

131 
Somerville, 80 
Soncy, 70 
Sound, Great, 136 
Soundings, Deep-sea, 

xiv 
Sounds, Prehistoric, 

xix 
South African War, 

xxxiv 
South Road 
— ■ from Hamilton to 

Tucker's Town, 92 
South Shore Hotel, 7, 

124 
South Shore Road, 124 
Southampton, Earl of, 

xxiii 
Southampton Fort, 116- 

117 
Southampton Is., 116- 

117 
Southampton Tribe, xiv 



Southcote (boarding 

house), 7 
Souvenirs, 29 
Spanish Point, 69 
Spanish Point Road, 

67 
Spanish Rock, xx, 56, 

96 
Spanyard Theatre, 22 
"Spartan, H. M. S.," 

68 
Spectacle Is., 127 
Sperm oil, xlvii 
Spiders, liv 
Spdttal Pond, 96 
Sports, 221 
Spring, Rev. Gardiner, 

Springs, xu 
Stag Rocks, 47, 69 
Stages, ID- 1 1 
Stalactites, xvi, 83, 87, 

88, 90, 137 
Stark, J. H. (quoted), 

82 
Station Hospital, 76, 

132 
Station View (board- 
ing house), 8 
Steamship lines, 15-17 
Stephenson, John, 103 
Stokes, Lieut., 99 
Stokes' Cut, 45 
Stokes' Point, loi 
Stone Hill Road, 80 
Stores, 29-31 
Stovel Bay, 68 
Strachey, W., xxii 
Sue Wood Bay, 95 
Sugar-cane, xlvii 
Sugar Loaf Hill, loi 
Summer accommoda- 
tion, 4 
Summerside (boarding 

house), 8, 131 
Sunny Brae (boarding 

house), 6 
Sunny Crest (boarding 

house), 6 
Sunnyside, 123 
Supermarine flying 

boats, 15 
Supreme Court, xliv 
Survey, xxiv, 66 
Surveyor, Colonial, 

xlvi 
Swimming, 25-26 
Swing bridge, 10 1 



154 



Taft, William H., 64 
— — (quoted), xxv- 

xxvi, xxvii, xliii 
Tamarind Vale, 122 
Tanks, Water, xlv 
Tarbolton, Harold 0., 

62 
Tax on tickets, 17 
Tea rooms, 9 
Telegraph facilities, 20 
Temperature, xlix 
"Tempest, The," xxii 
Tennis, 5, 6, 7, ZT, 98 
Terns, 10 1 
Theatres, etc, 20 
Thorn ond. Earl of, xxvi 
Thorburn Memorial 

Hall, 22, 121 
"Three Uncrowned 

Kings of Bermuda," 

xxii, xxiii, 117 
"Thrush" (ship), 129 
Time, Distribution of, 

36 
Timlin's Narrows, 129, 

138 
Tobacco, xxvii, 84, 100 
Tobacco Bay, 45, 109 
Tourist agencies, 18 
Tours, Special, 16-17 
Tower, The, 31, 33, 59 
Town Cut, 45, 114 
Town Hall, St. 

George's, 22, 103 
Town Hill, 46, 81 
Transit, 10-15 
Transportation, Inter- 
island, 10-15 
Travel, Inter-island, 

10-15 
Treasure, Buried, 13s 
Tree-climbing crab, 94 
Trees, xxxix-xlii 
— planted by Princes, 

68 
"Tribes," xiii, xxiv, 

XXV 
Trimingham family, 93 
Trimingham Hall, 119 
Trott family, 95 
Trott, Samuel, 91 
Trott's Pond, 97 
Trunk Is., 85, 90 
Tucker, Cxov. Daniel, 

XXV, xxvi, 49, 98, 99, 

115, 128! 



INDEX 

Tucker, Hon. Henry, 

105, 130 
Tucker, Hester Louisa, 

106 
Tucker, Richard 

Thomzis, 106 
Tucker, Judge St. 

George, xxxi 
Tucker Bldg. (Fur- 
nished rooms), 8 
Tucker family, 131 
Tucker homesteads, 129 
Tucker's Is., 137 
Tucker's Town, 25, 97 

Chapel, 33 

— ■ — Development, 98 

Tufa, XV 

"Twain, Mark," 13, 21, 

66, 86 
— ' — '(quoted), liv, 93 
Two Rock Passage, 47 
Typewriters admitted, 

3 

u 

Uncrowned Kings, xxii, 
xxiii, 117 

U. S. Consulate, 51 

U. S. Geological Sur- 
vey, XV 

Upshur, Rear Admiral, 
13 



Van Norden, John, 105 
Vegetable life, xxxix- 
xlii 
Vegetables, xlvii 
Verrill, A. E. (quoted), 
XV, xviii, xxxi, 82, 
85, 88, 92, 97, 98, 
99, 100, 116, 130, 
^32, 137 
Vessels, Right of way 

of, 43 
Victoria, Fort, no 
Victoria Lodge, 6, 64 
Victoria Park, 64 
Victoria St., 63 
Victory (motion pic- 
tures), 21 
Views, Noteworthy, 75, 

81, 100, 112, 127 
Villa Mont Clare, 86 
Villa Monticello, yj, 86 
Vines, xlii 



Virginia Co., xx, xxii, 
xxiv 

"Virginiola," xxii 

Vizetelly, Frank H. 
(quoted), 106 

Volcanic origin. Evi- 
dence of, xi, xiv, XV 

Voters, xliii 

w 

Wailes & Strang, 71 
Wainwright family, 121 
Wall, Old, IIS 
Waller, Edmund, 112 
Waller's Point, 112 
Walsingham Bay, 91 
Walsingham Caves, 92 
Walsingham House, 

91-92 
Walsingham House- 

(road house), 10 
Walsingham limestone, 

xviii 
Warwick Camp, 125 

— hotels and boarding 
houses, 7 

— Pond, 122 
— ■ Tribe, xiii 
Warwick's Fort, 102 
Washington, George 

(quoted), xxx-xxxi 
Washington House, 6, 

Water, xii-xiii 
Water sports, 27-28 
Water St., 103 
Water Supply, xlv-xlvi 
Watford Is., 47, 132 
Weather, xlviii-1 
Well, Lunn's, 11 1 
Wells, xlv 
Wesley Church, t,^, 63 

1 Lecture Room, 21 

Wesley Methodist 

Chapel, Old, 58, 63 
Wesleyan Methodist 

Chapels, 82, 112, 128 
Westfield (rectory), 66 
Wetmore, Charles D. 

(quoted), 98 
Whale-house, 113 
Whales, xxxiv, vlvii. 

Whelk, 116 

Whitby, 90 

White, Pearl, 66, 123 

White Star line, 17 



Whiteiield (Revivalist), 

(quoted), 133 
Whitney Institute, 80 
Wilkinson, W. D., 89, 

96 
Wilkinson Ave., 89 
Willcocks, Gov., 23, 

26, 97 
— (quoted), xxix, xliii 
William III, King, los 
William IV, King, 103 
Willows, The (tea 

room), 9 



INDEX 

Wilson, Woodrow, 13. 
123 

Wilson's Is., 128 

Winds, xlix 

Windsor (hotel), 22 

Wireless telegraph, 20, 
131 

Wistowe, 82 

Witch's Cave, 92 

Woman's Work Ex- 
change tea room, 9 



Women, Bermudian, 

liii 
Wonderland Cave, 90 
Woodlands, 71 
Wreck Bay, 128 
Wreck Hill, 128 

Y 

Yacht races, 28 
Yachting, 27-28 
Yellow fever, 105 



MAP INDEX 

When no plate reference is given, entry refers to the large 
fnap of Bermuda, Plate III. 



Abbot's Cliff, O4 
Abbot's Hill, O4 
AjChilles Bay, T2 
Admiralty House, H3 
African Methodist 

Church, I — E3 
Agar's Is., G4 
Albuoy Point, Hs 
Albduy's Point, N6 
Allenhurst Hotel, 

I— D4 
Alpha Is,, E4 
American House, 

I— B3 
Angle St., I— D3 
Annie's Bay, T5 
Argyle, The, I— C3 

Bailey's Bay, N4 

Bank of Bermuda, 
I-HC4 

Bank of Butterfield & 
Son, I — D4 

Baricer's Hill, K5 

Barrack Hill, II— Fi 

Bartlett Is., D6 

Bassett's Cave, B4 

Bassett's Dock, B4 

Bay Is., O3 

Beek Rock, G3 

Bermuda Athletic As- 
soc, I — C3 

Bermuda Cathedral, 
I— D3 

Bermuda Golf Links, 
H4 



BerryhiU Road, J6 
Beta Is., E4 
Bethell's Is., B2 
Beverley, H6 
Bird Is., G4 
Bird Rock, R6 
Bishop's Lodge, I — C3 
Black Bay, C6 
Black Rock, T6 
Blackwood Bay, S4 
Bluck Point, G4 
Blue Hole, H6; P4 
Boat Bay, C7 
Boaz Is., E2 
Bostock Hill, H6 
Boiling Hole, C3 
Boss's Cove, G4 
Bowen Point, M4 
Brackish Pond, K6 
Brayton Lodge, I — C3 
Bremen Cut, T4 
Bridge House, B3 
Brighbside, Ms 
Brooks Is., S3 
Brown's Bay, A3 
Brunswick Hotel, I — D2 
Buck Is., Bs 
Buildings Bay, T3 
Burchall Cove, M3 
Burgess Point, D6; P2 
Burnaby St., I — C4 
Burnt Is., G6 
Burrows Hill, S4 
Burt Is., Es 
Burton Bay, H4 
Butterfield Bank, I— D4 



Cable Bay, G6 
Cable Office, I— B4 
Callaghan Bay, B-2 
Camber, The, Gi 
Canton Bay, 06 
Canton Point, N6 
Carter's Bay, S4 
Castle Cut, R6 
Castle Grotto Cave, P4 
Castle Harbour, J4 
Castle Point, R6 
Castle Roads, R6 
Cat Is., G4 
Cataract Hill, H7 
Cathedral Rocks, B3 
Causeway, The, P3 
Cave Is., R3 
Cavendish, J., s 
Cedar Ave., I — C^ 
Cedar Hill, B6 
Cedarhurst, I — ^2 
Cemetery Hill, S2 
Chalet, Le. I— D3 
Chapel-of-Ease, T4 
Chaplin Bay, E7 
Charles' Fort, R6 
Cherrystone HilL R2 
Christian Bay, (J7 
Christ's Church, Ks 
Christ's (Thurch 

(Presb.), G6 
Church Bay, B2; B6; 

O4 
Church St., I— Cj; 

II— D3 
Clarence Cove, H3 



156 

Cobbler's Cut, G3 
Cobbler's Is., G3 
Cock Rocks, S6 
Cockburn's Cut, Fi 
Colonial Hotel, I — B3 
Colonial Opera House, 

I— E3 
Commissioner's House, 

Gi 
Common Land Point, 

M4 
Coney Is., P3 
Convict Bay, T3 
Convict Cemetery, D2 
Conyers Bay, A3 
Cooper's Is., S5 
Cottage Hill, N3 
Court House, I — D3 
Court St., I-^E3 
Cove Point, U5 
Cox's Bay, K6 
Crane Point, G3 
Crawl, The, N3 
Crawl Point, N3 
Cricket Field, I— A 2 
Cross Bay, D7 
Cross Is., Fi 
Crow Lane, 16 
Crow Lane Harbour, 

Hs 
Crystal Cave, P4 
CustomB House, I — 1D4 

Daniel's Head, Ci 
Daniel's Is., Bi 
Darrell Is., Es 
Davis* Hole, R2 
Deborah Bay, T5 
Deep Bay, H3 
Delta Is., Es 
Devil's Hole, N6 
Devonshire, K6 
Devonshire Bay, L6 
Devonshire Marsh, K5 
Dinghy Club. I— C4 
Dockyard, Gi 
Dolly's Bay, T4 
Ducking Stool, I4 
Dundonald St., I— B2 
Dyer Is., G5 

Eagle's Nest, I4 

East Broadway, I — 'F4 

East Prison Road, 

II— A3 
East Whale Bay, D? 
Ebenezer Methodist 

Church, II— B3 
Elbow Bay, H7 



INDEX 

Elba Beach, H; 
Elizabeth Is., F4 
Elliott St., I— C2 
Ely's Harbour, B3 
Emily's Bay, S4 
Epsilon Is., Es 
Eta Is., Fs 
Evans' Bay, B5 
Evans' Pond, Bs 

Fairyland Creek, H4 
Featherbed Alley, 

II— D3 
Fern Is., Fs 
Ferry Point, P2 
Ferry Reach, Q3 
Ferry Road, II — A3 
Flatts Bridge, Ms 
iFlatts Village, Ms 
Floating Dock, Gi 
Flora Point, Ci 
Fort Hill Bay, S6 
Fowle's Point, C3 
Fox's Hill, T5 
Frank's Bay, B6 
Frascati, Ms 
Frith Point, H6 
■Front St., I — C4 
Furness Bermuda Line, 

I— B4. 

Gamma Is., Es 
Garrison Golf Links, 

Ks 
George's Bay, B4 
George's Narrows, C4 
Gibbet Is., L4 
Gibbons Bay, Ls 
Gibb's Hill, C6 
Gibb's Hill Lighthouse, 

C? 
Gibb's Pt, B3 
Gilbert Hill, L6 
Goat Is., Ss 
Golf Links, I— A2 
Goose Is., G4 
Government House, I4 
Governors Is., T4 
Grace Is., Ds 
Graloe's Is., §4 
Granaway Deep, Fs 
Grape Bay, I7 
Grasmere Hotel, G4 
Grassy Bay, Gi 
Gravelly Bay, N6 
Gray's Bridge, Ei 
Grazbury's Is., T$ 
Great Bay, T4 



Great Harbour's Mouth, 

B2 
Great Head, U5 
Great Is., T4 
Great Scaur, Ts 
Green Bay, M4 
Green Rock, S6 
Green's Hill, Bs 
Gunner Point, U4 
Gurnet Rock, S6 
Gwelly Hole, D2 

Hall's Is., O4 
Hamilton (Parish), 

N4; Os 
Hamilton (Town), Is; 

PI: I 
Hamilton Harbour, Gs 
Hamilton Hotel, I— B3 
Harbour View, 16 
Harman's Bay, C2 
Harmony Hall, H6 
Harrington Sound, Ns 
Harris Bay, M6 
Haw*kins Is., F4 
Head of the Lane, F4 
Hen Is., T3 
Henry's Hill. O3 
Heron Bay, F7 
Higgs Bay, S3 
Higgs Is., T3 
High Point, B6 
Hillcrest, II— C2 
Hinson Bay, Js 
Hinson I., Gs 
Hogfish Bay, H3 
Holy Trinity Church, 

O4 
Horn Rock, S6 
Horse-shoe Bay, D7 
Horseshoe Is., T3 
Hotel Belmont, G6 
Hotel Frascati, M5 
Hotel Imperial, I — C3 
Hotel Kenwood, 1 — C3 
Howard Bay, R6 
Hungry Bay, J 7 
Hunt's Is,, D6 

Inglewood, 16 

Inner Pear Rocks. T6 

Inverurie Hotel, G6 

Ireland Is., Fi 

Isle of White, H6 

Jack's Bay, S3 
Jeflfrey's Hole, M6 
Jennings' Bay, B5 
Jew's Bay, D6 



Jobson Cove E7 
Jobson's Point, B2 
Jones Is., S4 
Joyce's I)ock, P3 
Joyce's Dock Caves, P3 

Kent St., II— E3 
Khybei- Pass, F7 
King Charles' Hole, Bi 
King St., I — 'E3 
King's Point, Di 
Knaptoq Hill, N6 
Knight's Hole, C2 

Lambdal Is., E4 
Lamp Rock, S6 
Leamington Cave, P5 
Library, I — B4 
Little Harbour's 

Mouth, B2 
Little Head, U4 
Little Is., T4 
Little Round Is., R4 
Little Scaur, T5 
Little Turtle Bay, F6 
Little White's Is., S3 
Lodge Point, F2 
Long Bay, Ci ; T6 
Long Bird Is., R3 
Long House, Hs 
Long Is., F4; S4 
Long Point, D2; G3 
Long Rock,. T5 
Lover's Lake, 62 
Loyal Hill, K5 
Lunatilq Asylum, L6 
Lusher Hill, F7 
Lyceum, The, P4 

McGall's Bay, M6 
McGall's Hill, M6 
Major's Bay, N4 
Mangrove Bay, Di 
Mangrove Creek, H4 
Mangrove Lake, 06 
Margaret's Bay, B2 
Market Square, II — D3 
Marshall Is., Fs 
Martello Tower, P2 
Masonic Hall, I — D4 
Mechanic's Hall I — B3 
Methelin Bay, Ci 
Military Hospital, T3 
Mill Point, G4 
Millhouse Bay, O4 
Monkev Hole, B5 
Moresby's Plain, Fi 
Morgan's Is., B2; C5 
Mosquito Hill, Ls 



INDEX 

Mount Hill, I4; T5 
Mount Is., G3 
Mount Langton, I4 
Mount Royal, H6 
Mullet Bay, R2 
Museum, I — B4 
Musson Point, H6 
My Lord's Bay, N4 
My Lord's Bay Hill, 
N4 

Narrows, The, T4 
Naval Cemetery, Fi 
Navy Wells, J5 
"Nea," Home of, 

II— <B2 
Nelly Is., E4 
New Church, II— E2 
New Windsor Hotel, 

I— B3 
Newton Bay, 06 
Nonsuch Bay, S6 
Nonsuch Is., S5 
Nonsuch Scaur, S6 
North Point, N6 
North Side Road, 

11— A3 
North St., I— D2 
Norwood, Hs 



Old Devonshire 

Church, K5 
Old Maid's Alley, 

II— C3 
Oleanders, The, I— E2 
Omega Rocks, E4 
One Rock Passage, G4 
Ordnance Is., S3; 

II— D4 

Paget, 16 
Paget Ferry, 16 
Paget Is., U4 
Paget Marsh, 16 
Palmetto Grove, Ms 
Par-la-Ville, I— B4 
i^ark St., I— B2 
Parliament St., I — D3 
Partridge Is., G4 
Patton's Point, Ns 
Pavnter's Hill, P5 
Peak, The, Ms 
Pear Rocks, T6 
Pearl Is., E3 
Peggy's Is., S3 
Pembroke, I4 
Pembroke Hall. 16 



Pembroke Marsh West, 

H4 
Pembi-oke Marsh East, 

Is 

Pendle Hill, Q2 
Perot's Is., D6 
Peter Tuciker's Bay, 

G3 
Phillipp's Cove, H3 
Pigeon Rocks, N3 
Pilchard Bay, B3 
Pitcher's Point, T4 
Pitt's Bay, H5 
Pitts Bay Road, 

I— A4 
Pitts Bay Road, H5 
Plaice's Point, D2: G3 
Point Finger Road, J6 
Point Pleasant Hotel, 

I— B4 
Port Royal, B6 
Port Royal Cove, D7 
Port Is., Fs 
Post Office, I — D4 
Presbyterian Church, 

I— E3 
Princess Hotel, Hs; 

I— A4 
Prospect Camp, Js 
Prudden Bay, H6 
Public Garden, J6 
Public Gardens, II — E3 
Pulpit Rock, Fi 

Queen St., I— B4; 
II— D3 

Race-course, M4 
Red Bay, S4; N4 
Red Hole, D2; 16; U4 
Reid Hall, I— C4 
Reid St., I— C4 
Richardson's Bay, R3 
Rickets Is., Es 
Riddle's Bay, D6 
Rifle Ranges, E7 
Roberts' Pt., S3 
Robinson Bay, Ks 
Rocky Bay, K6 
Rogue Is., Q3 
Roman Catholio 

Church, Hamilton, 

I-D3 
Rosebank, H5 
Round Is., S4 
Royal Barracks, T2 
Royal Bermuda Yacht 

Club, I— D4 



158 

Royal Gazette and 
Colonist, I — C4 

Royal Mail Steam Pack 
Co., I— C4 

Royal Naval Hospital, 
Ei 

Rushy Is., R6 

Ruth's Bay, T5 

Ruth's Point, Ts 

St. Anne's Church, C6 
St. Catharine Point, T2 
St. David's Head, U4 
St. David's Is., S4 
St. David's Lighthouse, 

Ts 
St. George, S2; PI. II 
St. George Hotel, S2; 

II— B2 
St. George's Channel, 

T3 
St. George's Harbour, 

S3 
St. George's Is., T2 
St, George's Parish, S3 
St. James' Church, B2 
St. John's Church, Is 
St. John's Road, Is; 

I— Ci 
St. Mary's Church, F6 
St. Paul's Church, 16 
St. Peter's Church, 

II— D3 
Salt Kettle, G6 
Salt Kettle Bay, G6 
Salt Kettle Ferry, H6 
Saltus Is., Gs 
Sam Hall's Bay, 06 
Sam's Point, S4 
Sandy Hole, N3 
Sandy Is., R3 
Sandys, Ca 
Scaur, The, B3 
Scaur Lodge, B3 
Scragged Rocks, T6 
Seaward, O3 
Seoni Point, N3 
Serpentine Road, H5 
Sessions House, I — D3 
Shark Hole, Ps 
Shelly Bay, M4 
Shinbone Alley, II^E2 
Shore Hills Hotel, R2 
Sick Alley, II— C3 
Sink, The, S4 
Sinky Bay, C7 
Skinner's Hill, U4 
Skroggin's Bay, C3 
Smith's. M6 



INDEX 

Smith's Bay, A 4 
Smith's Is., S4 
Smith's; Sound, T4 
Soldier Point, S6 
Somers Hotel, II — D3 
Somerset, C2 
So'merset Bridge, B3 
S omerset- Watf ord 

Bridge, D2 
South Prison Road, 

II— A3 
South Shore Hotel, H7 
Southampton, B6 
Southampton Rock, S6 
Spanish Point, G3; H4 
Spanish Point Road, 

H4; I— A2 
Spanish Rock, M6 
Spectacle I., 65 
Spencer's Point, M6 
Spithead, F6 
Spittal Pond, M6 
Spring Bennq's Bay, 

A4 
Stag Rocks, G2 
Stags, The, M4 
Stake Bay, S4 
Steamship Dock, I — B4 
Stocks Harbour, R3 
Stocks Pt., S3 
Stokes' Cut, T3 
Stokes' Pt, S3 
Stonehole Bay, E7 
Stovel Bay, G3 
Sue Wood Bay, L6 
Sugarlane Pt., Di 
Sunny Brae, I — ^C2 
Surf Bay, Q6 
Swan's Bay, I4 
Swing Bridge, R3 

Tamarind Vale, F6 
Tatem Point, D2 
Taylor Point, N4 
Theta.Is., Fs 
Thorburn Memorial 

Hall, G6 
Tilley Is., G3 
Timlin's Narrows, G5 
Tobacco Bay, T2 
Tobacco Rock, T2 
Tom Wood's Bay, G3 
Town Cut, T3 
Town Hall, (Hamilton) 

I— E4 
Town Hall, (St. 

George) II— D3 
Town Hill, Ms 
Trimingham Hill, 16 



I 



Trott's Bay, P6* 
Trott's Pond, (36 
Trunk Is., N4 • 
Tucker's Bay, Ms 
Tucker's Is., (?4 
Tucker's Town, P5 
Tucker's Town Bay, P6 
Tudor's Bay, A4 
Tudor's Hill, A4 
Turtle Bay, B6; T6 
Turtle Hill, D7 
Two Rock Passage, G4 
Tynes Bay, Ks 
U. S. Consulate, I— B4 

II— D 3 
Victoria Lodge, I — ^C2 
Victoria Park, 1 — C2 
Victoria St., I— C3 
Villa Monticello, M5 

Waller's Point, R3 
Walsingham Bay, P4 
Walsingliam Caves, P4 
Walsingham House, P4 
Warwick, G7 
Warwick Camp, E7 
Warwick Long Bay, 

E7 
Warwick Pond, F6 
Washington House, 

I— F4 
Washington St., I — C3 
Watch Hill, N6 
Water St., II— C4; 

II— E3 
Watford Bridge, Di 
Watford Is., E2 
Watlington Point, K5 
Waverly, I — D3 
Well Bay, S6 
Wesley St., I-^B3 
Wesleyan Methodist 

Church, I— D3 
W. Whale Bay, As 
Westoott Is., S4 
Whale Is., B3 
Whalebone Bay, P2 
White Point, Ms 
White's Is., S3 
Whitney Institute, M5 
Whitney's Bay, A4 
Wilkinson Ave., P4 
Wilson's Is., C6 
Wonderland Cave, P3 
Wreck Bay, A2 
Wreck Hill, A3 
York St., II— C3 
Zeta Is., F5 




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